DIY led grow

Positivity

Well-Known Member
where the mushroom compost is so high in protein, the worms get
FAT also. you can actually feed spent mushroom substrates to fish
and some livestock.

That'd be awesome if you could lay out a "how to" or point me to a few resources on the subject.

I briefly researched making my own co2 bag but gave up in the process. Was wondering if I could just take a portion out as seed material and put it in some fresh substrate.

My worms are sadly skinny lately..lol. Stopped tending when the bins filled up. Been working on taking better care of them lately.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
POS, if you are living in the same building as your ladies your CO2 levels are more often than not, very high. I have been monitoring the CO2 indoors all summer and it is amazing how much breathing makes. If I close the windows for 2-3 days to run the AC it gets as high as 2500ppm.
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
POS, if you are living in the same building as your ladies your CO2 levels are more often than not, very high. I have been monitoring the CO2 indoors all summer and it is amazing how much breathing makes. If I close the windows for 2-3 days to run the AC it gets as high as 2500ppm.
Your probably right supra. Without a co2 meter I have no idea what's going on. My grow area is tiny and in a cramped corner with almost no ventilation except for what my 4" fan sucks in. I'm surprised I pull off what I do..figured it might help
 

Mohican

Well-Known Member
I remember reading that just breathing on your plants once a day can have a huge influence. That is where the talking to your plants story is derived.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Ya I thought maybe my ladies would eat up a lot of CO2 but it turns out even one human breathing creates a lot more CO2 than a good size garden can use. If I understand correctly, levels above 1500 may be counterproductive. During the summer it was challenging to keep it below that level because I had to let heat and humidity in to reduce the CO2.
 

indianajones

Well-Known Member
POS, if you are living in the same building as your ladies your CO2 levels are more often than not, very high. I have been monitoring the CO2 indoors all summer and it is amazing how much breathing makes. If I close the windows for 2-3 days to run the AC it gets as high as 2500ppm.
ours never got that high with the grow in a basement. 3 people and
2 dogs living in the house and i had a sentinel CHHC4 for monitoring.
~700 ppm was the highest i ever saw. maybe your controller isn't
calibrated properly? maybe mine wasn't calibrated properly? lol

That'd be awesome if you could lay out a "how to" or point me to a few resources on the subject.

I briefly researched making my own co2 bag but gave up in the process. Was wondering if I could just take a portion out as seed material and put it in some fresh substrate.

My worms are sadly skinny lately..lol. Stopped tending when the bins filled up. Been working on taking better care of them lately.
it will require a bit of reading, but i can point you in the right direction.
here are the basics of the terminology-

spawn is material you use for expanding a fungal colony. when you
referred to your co2 bag as a seed culture, it would actually be called
spawn. spawning is the act of mixing spawn with substrate. spawn
can be grains, sawdust, or mulch. you can also use an otherwise
exhausted substrate for fungal expansion, as is the case with your
CO2 bag. grains are the most nutritionally dense and are loaded with
bacterial endospores, so they require sterilization.

substrate is the material the fungal colony is living on and feeding off
of. there are primary and secondary decomposers in the world of fungi,
primary decomposers live on stuff like mulch, sawdust, straw, or lawn
thatch. they have enzymes to break down lignin, which are unique to
fungi and some bacteria. secondary decomposers live on materials
that have been chemically changed by the digestion of other organisms,
dung loving mushrooms would be an example. the horse or cow eats
grass, poops it out, then the fungi eat the partially decomposed grass.

you use two techniques for preparing spawn and substrate, pasteurization
and sterilization. pasteurization is used for substrates, sterilization is
typically used for spawn. pasteurization of substrates occurs between
140-160F, sterilization is 250F+.

that is the basis of the terminology, but there are plenty more things to
learn about the process. i would recommend mycotopia to learn about
mushrooms. shroomery has more members, but there are so many trolls!
i'm one of the mods there, go by kcmoxtractor.

here's a link, feel free to lurk or become a member. if you register, message
me your handle name here on RIU and i can get your membership approved
and tell you how to get permissions for the rest of the board. we have global
board posting board restricted for new members because we used to have
terrible problems with spammers and spam bots.
https://mycotopia.net/

coons got into my worms bins, did a pretty mean number on them. i had 4x
18 gallon totes filled with worms... now i might have 1.5-2.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
ours never got that high with the grow in a basement. 3 people and
2 dogs living in the house and i had a sentinel CHHC4 for monitoring.
~700 ppm was the highest i ever saw. maybe your controller isn't
calibrated properly? maybe mine wasn't calibrated properly? lol
It very much depends on how well sealed the building is. When I run a small cool air intake during winter the PPM stabilizes at about 900ppm. Even just cracking a window makes a huge difference. When I first moved in here I sealed everything very tightly. If I open all the doors and windows it drops to 400 within 60 minutes. On very sunny days the forest I am surrounded by seems to eat some of the CO2 and it drops to 370 so I am pretty sure it is well calibrated but I dont have anything else to compare it to.

I did buy one of those chemical CO2 tests a few years back and I was shocked at how high the levels were.
 

indianajones

Well-Known Member
It very much depends on how well sealed the building is. When I run a small cool air intake during winter the PPM stabilizes at about 900ppm. Even just cracking a window makes a huge difference. When I first moved in here I sealed everything very tightly. If I open all the doors and windows it drops to 400 within 60 minutes. On very sunny days the forest I am surrounded by seems to eat some of the CO2 and it drops to 370 so I am pretty sure it is well calibrated but I dont have anything else to compare it to.

I did buy one of those chemical CO2 tests a few years back and I was shocked at how high the levels were.
yeah our house was not very well sealed. we were out in the middle of BFE
so we weren't that concerned with smell leaks. it didn't even have central air,
so where we installed the window unit was probably leaking CO2 pretty rapidly.
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Grow is rockin'..overall the photo reds seem to be a nice addition. Probably tweak the spectrum a little bit on the next go around..just a few little changes I want to make.

Supposed to power it down but I've been running full throttle..:mrgreen:. Kinda nice seeing if the photoreds can handle being overdriven at 1a.

305nm - 730nm....wish I could see this on a spectral graph...


image.jpg

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
What's wrong with using candles for co2?........lol

I can verify that in Philly outside its around 340-355ppm depending o on pollution and indoors in my apt building it gets easily over 1000ppms in the winter...

Grow is looking awesome pos......
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
You are running your XP-E photo red's at 1A and no loss of output over time? I thought the max current was 700mA.

Do you think they'd be safe to run at 700mA? (pointless to ask since you're running it at 1A, but maybe you regret the decision now?)

Do you have any idea what the efficiency would be like at 700mA?


Grow is rockin'..overall the photo reds seem to be a nice addition. Probably tweak the spectrum a little bit on the next go around..just a few little changes I want to make.

Supposed to power it down but I've been running full throttle..:mrgreen:. Kinda nice seeing if the photoreds can handle being overdriven at 1a.

305nm - 730nm....wish I could see this on a spectral graph...


View attachment 3268372

View attachment 3268367 View attachment 3268368 View attachment 3268370 View attachment 3268371
 
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Positivity

Well-Known Member
You are running your XP-E photo red's at 1A and no loss of output over time? I thought the max current was 700mA.

Do you think they'd be safe to run at 700mA? (pointless to ask since you're running it at 1A, but maybe you regret the decision now?)

Do you have any idea what the efficiency would be like at 700mA?

I went into it prepared to blow out all my photo reds..

It was something I wanted to try. The flashlight guys have been pushing their leds well past the recommended current. What I gathered was it's possible to maintain performance if it's mounted on a copper sinkpad. The relative flux vs current doesn't drop off as quickly if you can manage to keep it cool.

One of the driving decisions was the large cxas. I figured I'd be running my lights higher than normal with reflected cxas and I'd need a extra powerful deep red source to have any chance of matching the throw of the cxa.

When I tested the junction temps of the oslons on aluminum sinkpads the Tj never went above 50c. So I assumed the photored on a copper sinkpad would do the same or better.

One of the best things about DIY to me Is being able to push the boundaries set by commercial lights. The flashlight guys aren't following specs to get the performance they want...why should we?

I know the efficiency drops...but it must be throwing farther...so in that sense it gains efficiency in usable depth of light

That's my theory on it at least....without testing equipment all I can do is go by what my gut tells me. My gut said 350ma wasn't enough and 1a was the most it could take running it for grow light extended times.

So far so good..
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Time to put this stuff in a enclosure..

This will be a veg light. It'll give me a chance to use the luxeon blue leds that I took out of my flower light and hopefully complement the 2 3590 5000k cxas that I have.

These aren't necessarily the parts I'd choose now...they are more just what I've bought since getting into the hobby along the way.

1 200w inventronics 700ma...this will drive 2 3590s and 2 3070

1 40w inventronics 700ma...this will drive some blues and whatever else I can think of...maybe a 365nm UVA for some early uv exposure

1 12v 1a psu salvaged from a china light for the fans

Two noctuas...last time I tried them they didn't cool enough for my hot environment but their all I have left. The light should go up to about 220w but in reality I've been running my veg room at just 100w. Give them a go..I'll try sds way of lining the 4 leds up with the fins

1 heatsink usa t slot from a early DIY light. Dire need of a better design...

And 1 - 17" x 10" bud industries enclosure. Pretty happy with the price and build of it

image.jpg

Not sure how I'm going to about it yet...I'll update as I progress..
 
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