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DonPetro said:
So i guess it is a multi-chip then rather than an actual COB? This LED stuff has me kind of stumped but i really like the idea of using LEDs.
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Well I've had a look round and asked Vipar, it does meet this definition of a cob package unit;
"COB LED means chip on board LED, it’s one of bare chip technologies, which interconnect bare chip to substrate by conductive or non-conductive adhesive, and then wire bonding to achieve its electrical connection. COB package is attach number of chips directly to the substrate, then packaged together by silica gel, epoxy resin or other materials".

There's probably a million reasons it isn't or is a cob but whatever it is it feels brilliant and I'll be using it as the primary lights from seed on my Sweet Seeds Dark Devil Auto next grow along with two V series panels as sidelights. Overkill!
 
If I'm understanding this right that COB one (384W) would produce more light that what Vipar is currently selling? The B2X3 to be exact
 
Maphyr said:
Please do not put words in my mouth! I never once stated that I expected the same growth as a 400w CMH. I'm simply providing my feedback based on my experience!

Now, I have seen you say to use full lighting on the Hans panel, but I never seen you say the same for the A51. I wish I had knew that 4 weeks ago, I'd have tuned the reds on also. So yeah I vegged with just the whites on for 4 weeks.

It's really bothering me that I should of had the reds on in veg, I just.. didn't know that.
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NOT trying to put words in your mouth grower, that's the way I interpreted this statement:

Maphyr said:
I dunno man! Maybe I'm just too used to seeing growth under a 400w CMH and the LED just seems slow to me.
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Sorry about that I guess................yeah veg/flower switches are nice to have in some circumstances, BUT as GG said more photons for the win !

I also went through all the Hans "phases/switches" on my first run with it.............second time it was full blast from seed and the outcome was way better obviously; The massive red leaning spec concerned me as an led noob the first time.

This myth that seedlings/early stages need less light has always perplexed me when you consider their natural environment; more light during their ENTIRE life cycle====more yield every time. BUT I do understand when indoor growers have electrical costs/temps to keep in mind.
 
bilbo182 said:
Well I've had a look round and asked Vipar, it does meet this definition of a cob package unit;
"COB LED means chip on board LED, it’s one of bare chip technologies, which interconnect bare chip to substrate by conductive or non-conductive adhesive, and then wire bonding to achieve its electrical connection. COB package is attach number of chips directly to the substrate, then packaged together by silica gel, epoxy resin or other materials".

There's probably a million reasons it isn't or is a cob but whatever it is it feels brilliant and I'll be using it as the primary lights from seed on my Sweet Seeds Dark Devil Auto next grow along with two V series panels as sidelights. Overkill!
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That's a pretty broad explanation from them AFAIC. I guess it does meet their definition of a COB, (not surprising :o), but it doesn't mine. Or a few others.

http://www.hitlights.com/blog/compa...n-led-technologies-dip-vs-smd-vs-cob-vs-mcob/
http://ledlights-reviews.com/led-lighting-evolution
http://www.cob-led.com/What-is-cob-LED-chips-on-board.html

Those are multis and that's important to me at least. COBs have much better efficiencies because they are basically small die sliced thin and wired tightly in series. Multis are bigger chips wired any way one can, though they do have the advantage if a die fails it may only take out a section of the mult-chip. One chip on a COB fails and it's over for the whole COB but since they don't generate the heat multis do, this tends not to happen. Now when a company tells me one thing and I think another I start to look closer and so I ask; How come CREE, Bridgelux, Nichia, Samsung, Panasonic, Philips, Citizen don't make any multi spectrum COBs? And the answer to that is they have better solutions. Why is VIPAR saying they use "128 x3w Bridgelux Leds" when B-lux doesn't make red or green die? And how come they aren't advertising the LED's beam angle but the angle of the reflector instead? Am I lighting my reflector or my plants? I can go on but you get the idea.

But again, you get the weight one produces with 600 watts of HPS with even less heat, who gives a fuck, right :)? LOL Still you gotta think twice when someone's not being forthright with you. My problem really is with China nowadays. Look what they're doing to Korea in the LED market. Just flooding the market with LEDs and basically choking domestic businesses which can affect a nations own economy. Even the article notes how China's government is completely behind the LED industry. Makes you think they're fighting their own little economic Cold War with everyone as a long term economic policy or worse knowing the little that I do know about their military. It really is time to start thinking twice about buying budget panels from China and what it truly means.

“As the Chinese government picked LED lighting as an item it will intensively develop in the future, it is actively supporting related companies,” said industry experts. “We must also urgently find ways to enhance the competitiveness of the LED industry at the national level.”


 
Like I said, I'm not denying it's not a cob, they could sell it as a Unicorn Attracting Beam for all I care as long as it's got the reds I felt were lacking in the standard panels I have!

I was pricing up the components for a diy cob along the theme of Greengene's starships but when I saw that thing at £150 with a warranty I really couldn't be arsed bothering for a small tent like mine :)
 
As far as the Chinese playing the long game for world domination of pretty much everything, well it's not like anyone who reads a bit of financial news hasn't seen the Oriental steamroller heading our way for the past 20 years.
It's not as if there's a country in existence now that could even dream of boycotting Chinese products if they wanted to and tbh while the self serving pricks we call our governments are lining their pockets with Chinese money on a huge scale I really am fucked if I'm paying a vast amount of money for a niche product that's a little bit better than the Chinese version.
 
I'm at work at another house and have came across five drivers lpc-35-1050!! So I will go ahead and add those to the collection!!!! Now spend a couple months reading all the LED threads and I should be able to build some thing with all this stuff. May be use these drivers for some led panels or strips to help with veg and CXA3070 or some deep red in bloom room.
 
You're right I was misled to believe our cost was roughly 30c a kWh. turns out its closer to 10. That sounds like a shitload of photons in a small space. Me likey

at 18hrs a day it would run $25.xx a month. For some reason that sounds oddly low to me.
 
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New to Led's. Currently have a Vipar 300w (96 x 3w) with IR reflector series. I am looking to purchase a couple lights for a family member and im wondering if the IR is necessary since im not seeing it in the newer models. Or if it would be more beneficial to have more red or ultra white? I was pretty happy with the current light in my cab but id like to try new designs if there is any real diference. Thanks for any imput
 
^^^Can't go wrong adding some white, especially DIY COBs, to your setup for added intensity and spectrum. Even adding CREE bulbs should really increase your density, footprint, even taste and smell. IMHO adding IR could be harmful or beneficial depending on some variables like strain, temps or medium. Safest bet seems to make sure you have some 730nm (FR) for flowering.
Vipars and many other panels have certain limitations due to their diodes efficiencies but can still manage to put out some decent PAR numbers. If the panel is weighted more to the blue side of the spectrum adding some reds can be beneficial but you'll need quality diodes of sufficient efficiency to make a difference. 2700K-3000K white lights are good here too since most are weighted towards the red side but again you really want higher efficiency whites to really help out the VIPAR. Anyway that's my .02 and Best of Luck!
 
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