Positivity
Well-Known Member
OMG..look at the size of that room. I'd run a few steel beams overhead and superglue some 3590 on the ceiling
DiY LED - Cree CXA3070
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
OMG..look at the size of that room. I'd run a few steel beams overhead and superglue some 3590 on the ceiling
reasonevangelist
Well-Known Member
cue the "eye of sauron" photoshopped over some plants!
is there any way to modify one of these onto your builds rather then using a cpu heatsink?
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23&products_id=26594
Corsair Hydro Series H105 Liquid CPU Cooler
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23&products_id=26594
Corsair Hydro Series H105 Liquid CPU Cooler
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Option A ) Simple Voltage regulator 10V pwm ,from Arduino .
1x L7810 Voltage Regulator .
1x Electrolytic cap 47uF / 16 V
1x Ceramic cap 100nF
1x 2N3904 transistor
1x 4700 ohm resistor .
......
& 12 VDC power supply
Don 't forget :
* Connect Ground (-) of the 12 VDC supply with Arduino's ground ,if Arduino is powered by a different
power supply ...Always "Common Ground" between different circuits ......
(In this case : ! Does not apply for the gnd pwm output ! )
*Total cost: probably less than $5 .
+10 VDC out goes to " Dim +" of driver ,likewise GND PWM out goes to " Dim- " of driver ...
With Arduino 's 'pwm library ' and some code lines one can replicate very easily ,with plenty of parameters set , dimming control like " Dawn" ,"Dusk " Noon Peak" , " Cloudy weather / gimme a break for five - " ,etc ...
{ -Set a operational Pwm frequency .Usual range is 100Hz - 1000 Hz.Check led driver's spec sheet for detailed manufacturer's recommendation / guides .
-Dimming is achieved by adjusting the duty cycle of the pwm ....
From 0% up to 100% of duty cycle.
-Of course both manually or automatically dimming ,or both ,
can be programmed with Arduino ...
( Interrupts and manual overide if switch ..blah ,blah ...Manual control also can be done
from using a pot ,to utilising touch sensors ... Or even a touch screen ..!!!
)
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purplegrower02
Well-Known Member
That water cooler is nice for computers but I don't think it's too great for our application.
I would rather use heatsinks drill a .250 hole threw the length of it run copper tubing threw in then out of the room to a atv, motorcycle radiator with a 20 mm fan and that would do a better job for cooling and cost less.
of course you need a Bridgeport/mill or a lathe to really do it properly but you could get away with doing it with a hand drill and a 24" drill bit.
I've come up with some blueprints of a similar set-up. It uses a 1/2 inch aluminum plate 3x3 or 4x4 with 3/16 or 1/4 copper tubing run threw it then bend a bunch of 180 copper angles to make a simple snake or car radiator design and bringIit out of the room to a actual cooling radiator.
with straight water and a added cooling agent I'm sure you could pull some amazing numbers.
I'm planning on building one during the slow nov, Dec season.
I would rather use heatsinks drill a .250 hole threw the length of it run copper tubing threw in then out of the room to a atv, motorcycle radiator with a 20 mm fan and that would do a better job for cooling and cost less.
of course you need a Bridgeport/mill or a lathe to really do it properly but you could get away with doing it with a hand drill and a 24" drill bit.
I've come up with some blueprints of a similar set-up. It uses a 1/2 inch aluminum plate 3x3 or 4x4 with 3/16 or 1/4 copper tubing run threw it then bend a bunch of 180 copper angles to make a simple snake or car radiator design and bringIit out of the room to a actual cooling radiator.
with straight water and a added cooling agent I'm sure you could pull some amazing numbers.
I'm planning on building one during the slow nov, Dec season.
Westnewton
Active Member
You are correct, everything is hidden inside.
Golderado
Member
Any update?Here we go then.
Plants were light deprived for 3+ days while I setup the COBs. The sativas were on the outskirts of the 560-watt Chinese panel for weeks too. They're all starting to recover already, and it's only their second 18-hour under the 3070's. Also I plan to get Orca film all along that back wall soon.
Such a sweet set up!
Got a journal going or something? Would like to fallow!
HockeyBeard
Well-Known Member
I'd love to see what you went with for drivers and PSU, and how you laid those out in the rail!
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
Great light. You and I are thinking a like. Getting everything tidy and clean in those "housing rail" is exactly what I am trying to do. I was going to do some sheet metal work, but why re-invent the wheel when they can come out so clean like yours.
CaliWorthington
Well-Known Member
I'll start a thread soon. Those plants got huge and now I want to put my own hybrid into bloom for the first time. So I have to hang the Chinese LED back up, and maybe sacrifice one or two of the big plants. I'm trying to avoid that, but can't really think of a solution. It's too hot in my garage to put a tent, forget it.Any update?
Such a sweet set up!
Got a journal going or something? Would like to fallow!
Westnewton
Active Member
Drivers are approximately 1amp for each cob and a single 12vdc for all the fans. No special layout just placed everything inside, it fit perfectly.
Westnewton
Active Member
Thank you. I would like to see a sheet metal one if you build it.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
I see your point, if for some reason your design required a single light source that might be a good way to go (CXA3590 running hard). But if you are able to spend that $$ on running at a lower current, you can achieve even high levels of light output for the less $. If for some reason maximum efficiency was the design goal, you could run the CXA3070 AB at 300mA and get up to 56% efficiency. That would cost $9.09/PAR Watt for the emitters, but the driver and heatsink cost would be much lower and of course the electric bill also.
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CaliWorthington
Well-Known Member
Listen to wise Supra, grasshopper. The 3070 is so bright at 1.4mA, I can't imagine running them hotter. 20 of them is bright like the sun. I wear Oakley sunglasses in there, until I start sweating too much.
Plus they do give off quite a bit of heat from the front of the egg. I don't think you can remove heat emanating from the front, no matter what kind of heatsink you use. I could be wrong.
[edit] Sorry, I got confused for a minute. Disregard what I typed here before. I got that mixed up with someone who wanted to run a CPU liquid cooler with their hydro reservoir, which might be a bad idea due to corrosion. I'm sure you could use liquid cooling on these COBs if you really wanted to, but I would put the radiator in a different room or not bother.
Plus they do give off quite a bit of heat from the front of the egg. I don't think you can remove heat emanating from the front, no matter what kind of heatsink you use. I could be wrong.
[edit] Sorry, I got confused for a minute. Disregard what I typed here before. I got that mixed up with someone who wanted to run a CPU liquid cooler with their hydro reservoir, which might be a bad idea due to corrosion. I'm sure you could use liquid cooling on these COBs if you really wanted to, but I would put the radiator in a different room or not bother.
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Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
The harvest is still drying from the 2 COBs run but I got the next round transplanted into final containers and the 3 AB modules built and installed.
