DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

EF that was 52 days from 12/12. A really quick finsih. This was supposed to be the last time I ran her but now I am thinking I should have kept a cut. Oh well can't keep them all LOL.

SloStoner, you are looking at 50W sq ft which is almost doube what I use, so 200W is plenty for that space. You could run a 4000K or 5000K during veg and then switch to 3000K X4 for flower?
 
hyroot said:
i was at the kush expo and solis tek was there promoting their cobs. They had one 100w cob on the same heat sink. Actually 60 watts. The guys there didn't know anything technical. Except that its dual phosphor. one cob will be selling for around $500 when its released. I laughed. They said whats so funny.I said " I can build 4 cobs for a little over half of that and use higher end cobs. Thats a huge a mark up. I suggest you reconsider that pricing." After some talking when they release it next fall they want me to do a side by side vs my inda gro's. I don't even know if I'd want to use those. Regardless of if they are free or not. I guess the name "Hyroot" is more known than I could have ever guessed.:cool:
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Whadup HY! Sorry I missed ya at the show. I helped with setup a bit and then had to head up to SF to see my doc. It's a bitch gettin old. But I heard the show was jamming. Glad to hear you got some of that coco too. You good sir are gonna luv it! Let me know how it does for you.

On another note, if solis tek ever wants to do an IG side by side with their cobs puhleez make that happen! $500 per cob...they just don't get it. To put a gentler spin on it though I guess you can say that HID guys are starting to polish off their crystal balls and are looking to hedge their bets. What I am totally digging though is that the COB LED's are using remote phosphors to expand spectrum. This clearly diminishes the plankian efficiencies of diodes in that they are resorting to phosphors to create broader bandwidths. If we're going to go with phosphors to create broad spectrums than I might suggest a different platform be considered.

I heard today that IG is greenlighting putting in a new DWC system at the shop with 4 of the CCh2o 35 gal buckets with four 8" net pots per tote. All on aquaponics. good stuff me thinks.
 
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chazbolin said:
Whadup HY! Sorry I missed ya at the show. I helped with setup a bit and then had to head up to SF to see my doc. It's a bitch gettin old. But I heard the show was jamming. Glad to hear you got some of that coco too. You good sir are gonna luv it! Let me know how it does for you.
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daryll said I missed you by like 30 min. I got only 2lbs of coco. They shipped it to me. Its getting mixed with soil in a 10.gal. That one will get the elements too
 
thakns for your answer Supra. I have changed my mind to go with 2 55w 6500K pl-l for veg, then add one or two cob's, and then 4x cob for flo.
 
YW SloStoner, to give you fair warning, modern cool white LEDs can be 2X more efficient than the very best fluoros and 3X better at delivering the photons to the canopy. On top of all that the LEDs will never suffer from lumen depreciation but the fluoros will suffer significantly. Vegging is what LED does best :)
 
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well then the best thing to do is to get 2 long heatsinks and run about 40-50w of cree xm-l 6500k on each one. And then add 3x 3000K cxa3070 for flowering.
 
For anyone looking to power their COB's stronger than 50 watts (why?). I was looking through some Mean Well Spec sheets and came across a dimmable driver for 1 CXA, it runs 25.2 - 42 volts @ 2.15A. Its the LPF-90D-42 and though a bit pricey will give you around 90 watts. I would think you need some serious cooling but 90w would be crazy bright.

Just though I would mention this as another option.
 
epicfail said:
For anyone looking to power their COB's stronger than 50 watts (why?). I was looking through some Mean Well Spec sheets and came across a dimmable driver for 1 CXA, it runs 25.2 - 42 volts @ 2.15A. Its the LPF-90D-42 and though a bit pricey will give you around 90 watts. I would think you need some serious cooling but 90w would be crazy bright.
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Here is one that is listed as new 60 watt 48 volt.http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2210773_-1 30 ducats. You also have a cheaper 80 watt option with the that's dimable http://www.jameco.com/1/1/24758-hln...single-output-switching-power-supply-led.html . You would want the A version if you want the dimmer on the driver itself
 
JavaCo said:
Here is one that is listed as new 60 watt 48 volt.http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2210773_-1 30 ducats. You also have a cheaper 80 watt option with the that's dimable http://www.jameco.com/1/1/24758-hln...single-output-switching-power-supply-led.html . You would want the A version if you want the dimmer on the driver itself
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I believe the LPF-60D-42 is a better match for the 3070 as you would not need to use anymore than 42 volts. At 1.25A the 3070 only uses 36-37 volts getting you around 42 watts which the 48v maxes out at. The 42v version will driver it 1.43A getting you around 52 watts. Also the LPF (IP67) driver costs about $9 more than the HLN-60H-42* (IP64) which is pretty much the same but will drive at 1.45A (about 54w). The 80w driver you linked is great for the 3070, I like the "B" versions of meanwell drivers with external dimming, you can dim to near nothing where as the "A" version I think can only dim to 55% or so. The PWM dimming is a cool option also.
 
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EF, is there a difference between that type of pwm dimming and actual PWM dimming of the output current? Hard to explain my question but it is important to avoid PWM dimming of the actual output current when it comes to LED. As a side note there is nothing worse than a PWM dimmed headlamp, you will think you are tripping everytime you turn your head lol
 
SupraSPL said:
EF, is there a difference between that type of pwm dimming and actual PWM dimming of the output current?
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I know the Mean Well drivers can be dimmed with resistance, 1-10 analog volts, or 1-10v pwm. It should act the same no matter what way you do it with the built in 3-in-1 dimmer function. It works be telling the driver to reduce output current.

SupraSPL said:
Hard to explain my question but it is important to avoid PWM dimming of the actual output current when it comes to LED. As a side note there is nothing worse than a PWM dimmed headlamp, you will think you are tripping everytime you turn your head lol
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Do you mean instead of reducing the current to lets say 700mA from 1400mA with a 100k Ω pot, which give a steady current of 700mA. It dims by cutting the current on/off so that its still 1400mA but flickering really fast. That sounds like what your headlamp is doing, kinda like a shitty refresh rate. I have seen fan speed and 3mm leds controlled like that, Im pretty sure that's not how these drivers work.

The problem I have run into is that the arduino PWM voltage is only 0-5v and I have to build a circuit that will multiply the voltage to make it 0-10v. All of this at the moment its way over my head, more testing is required but I am determined to figure it out and to paraphrase/misquote JFK.

We choose to do these things not because they are easy, but because they are hard and we have nothing else to do.
 
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