I have defoliated my plants in the hope to increase my yeild :)

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tip top toker

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all I know is defoliated works really well for me


my 4 plants 8 weeks in flower (defoliated in veg and a little in early flower)

View attachment 3003933

the yield I pulled from 4 plants under a 600w hps :)

after being dried for 10 days

View attachment 3003934
I'm not saying what you do doesn't work, but I don't consider what you're doing to be defoliation. Yours in flower looks no different to how ,one looked, and I did nothing but scrogg them.

I bed you had fun trimming that lot once it was dry :-\
 

stickybuds*

Active Member
I'm not saying what you do doesn't work, but I don't consider what you're doing to be defoliation. Yours in flower looks no different to how ,one looked, and I did nothing but scrogg them.

I bed you had fun trimming that lot once it was dry :-\
yeh it took all day lol bud I get 3 joints from the finger rub so its not all bad
 

Ou8aCracker2

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I'd be interested to see how the yields would have changed had you simply topped and fimmed and scrogged and lst'd from the start, instead of chopping it down and having to give it a further 2 weeks to get back to a flower ready state.

I would not personally call this defoliation, more just extreme training prior to flowering. Your pictures show that upon flowering time, the plant was ANYTHING but defoliated. There may indeed be a specific definition of defoliation, but to me, unless it's being done in flower, then it is nothing mroe than a form of training, similar to what most of us do, be is lollipopping, topping, etc, but we wouldn't call it defoliating.
Defoliation is NOT plucking all the fan leaves.

Proper defoliation is done when growing trees or bigger/bushier plants.The furst round would be done over the course of 2 weeks to open up the insides of tge plant to more light allowing sucker growth to grow bigger and better and no longer equate to being sucker growth.More growing shioots opened to light equals more flower sights come flowering time.

After you switch to flower you would not defoliate again until after the initial stretch is over with.And finally about two weeks before harvest.

Again,you do NOT remove every or even the majority of leaves.
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
Defoliation is NOT plucking all the fan leaves.

Proper defoliation is done when growing trees or bigger/bushier plants.The furst round would be done over the course of 2 weeks to open up the insides of tge plant to more light allowing sucker growth to grow bigger and better and no longer equate to being sucker growth.More growing shioots opened to light equals more flower sights come flowering time.

After you switch to flower you would not defoliate again until after the initial stretch is over with.And finally about two weeks before harvest.

Again,you do NOT remove every or even the majority of leaves.
If that is the actual definition, well, I achieve all of that without removing a leaf. Hence my confusion.
 

joe macclennan

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it's cool man. I used to defoliate too.


then I learned how to grow

If you keep your leaves green up until harvest, They are helping not hurting

that's all I have to say about that.

removing the lower sucker branches......is another subject entirely.
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
thanks ilyass123 not bad for a soil organic grow :)

so chuck what do you think ?
I think your leaves look burnt to fuck. I pull 4-5 ozs off a plant without all that bullshit you do and my plants finish green.

I also run around 40 plants, pulling leaves off all of them is another job I wouldn't want,even if it was cost effective.which it isn't
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
I think your leaves look burnt to fuck. I pull 4-5 ozs off a plant without all that bullshit you do and my plants finish green.

I also run around 40 plants, pulling leaves off all of them is another job I wouldn't want,even if it was cost effective.which it isn't
Rather were my train of thought was headed. Very first grow, if suitable lighting, and we're talking just say a measly 400w hps, should be 2-3 ounces a plant without an issue, if you know how to grow, 4-5 ounces in any medium with any technique is childs play. This whole thing just seems like a waste of time and money. Why not just train the plant from the start instead of letting it do it's thing, chopping the shit out of it, then having to veg it for another fortnight just to get back to the point that you would have been at had you done things right from the start.

I see absolutely nothing about this that would compel me to pull a single leaf off given i could jut grow my plants as required and get the same yield and save 2 weeks of power, water, and nutes, not to mention my own time.
 

Banana444

Well-Known Member
So to conclude this long and drawn out debate, it doesnt matter how stupid we all are :) our plants will still grow. On another note. Was talking to a friend and he did an outdoor grow about ten years ago and it suffered through a hail storm late june early july. It killed a couple, but one that he thought was gone, made a huge rebound and was a top yielder. So maybe nature knows best :)....im going to buy a bag of ice and breaking out my tater cannon.
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
So to conclude this long and drawn out debate, it doesnt matter how stupid we all are :) our plants will still grow.
I don't think that's what is being debated.. We all know plants will still grow, the focus of this thread seems to be yield, and as to the debate, wasted time and money for the same yield. Whenever i tried something new, i'd do side by side with clones, so i can at least appreciate what the differences were.
 

joe macclennan

Well-Known Member
to the op....read this http://www.biologyreference.com/Ta-Va/Translocation.html






[h=1]Translocation[/h]

Translocation is the movement of materials from leaves to other tissues throughout the plant. Plants produce carbohydrates (sugars) in their leaves by photosynthesis, but nonphotosynthetic parts of the plant also require carbohydrates and other organic and nonorganic materials. For this reason, nutrients are translocated from sources (regions of excess carbohydrates, primarily mature leaves) to sinks (regions where the carbohydrate is needed). Some important sinks are roots, flowers, fruits, stems, and developing leaves. Leaves are particularly interesting in this regard because they are sinks when they are young and become sources later, when they are about half grown.


Read more: http://www.biologyreference.com/Ta-Va/Translocation.html#ixzz2uCLwQ0X0
 
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