High PH signs, symptoms and correcting...Pictorial!! A must read for newb'z

dubcoastOGs

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry, But you'll have to be more specific than "the values of the soil changed a bit, driving the ph up"

What. What does it take for that Ph to rise. In a bag. Sitting there. With no human interaction. which values changed? How did they change, and more importantly why? I'm not saying it didn't, But why?

your science is sub 7th grade at best.

I'm over it. go ahead and post your response. I won't be replying.
 

sativa indica pits

Active Member
do you know how compost works? it has bacteria in it, it needs oxgyen to stay alive or at least gas exchange. this is the same for soil, bacteria which is deff in mg potting mix. now thro it in a trash bag tie the bag up thro it in the corner, leave it sitting there for 24 months with no oxygen, the bacteria dies, the ph buffering agents what ever they may be, most likely lime and a lot of it to get the soil to a general range. lime keeps working over the next 2 years... the ph keeps going up...up now there is no acidic bacteria to keep it in balance and keep the ph in check. simple stuff
 

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
do you know how compost works? it has bacteria in it, it needs oxgyen to stay alive or at least gas exchange. this is the same for soil, bacteria which is deff in mg potting mix. now thro it in a trash bag tie the bag up thro it in the corner, leave it sitting there for 24 months with no oxygen, the bacteria dies, the ph buffering agents what ever they may be, most likely lime and a lot of it to get the soil to a general range. lime keeps working over the next 2 years... the ph keeps going up...up now there is no acidic bacteria to keep it in balance and keep the ph in check. simple stuff
not all bacteria needs oxygen to survive or gas exchange. Do you know how bacteria works lol
 

sativa indica pits

Active Member
please name one type of bacteria that doesnt need oxygen or gas exchange and loves a high co2. and thrives at 8.3 ph. maybe not oxygen but deff not a ph of 8.3
 

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
this will be my post for ph problems https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688 so you dont get mad
That link to some other growing site that your posting is a complete guide yet all i hear from you is ph. Theres even a list of questions that you neglect to ask and just fire off, looks like ph to me. If youd ask a couple of those questions provided by the link your posting 95/100 times i can gaurentee its not ph thats the problem.
 

sativa indica pits

Active Member
ok one question answered, what should i do with the droopy plants,,, i really dont want to sit here and take shots back and forth, how about helping me with my plants, im about to lose the grow!! not really but, if I was a new grower what would you tell me with the info i provided, just calm down a bit, its just marijuana not the end of the world, just think while you try to prove to me, your right, there are other who are asking for your help.
 
ok one question answered, what should i do with the droopy plants,,, i really dont want to sit here and take shots back and forth, how about helping me with my plants, im about to lose the grow!! not really but, if I was a new grower what would you tell me with the info i provided, just calm down a bit, its just marijuana not the end of the world, just think while you try to prove to me, your right, there are other who are asking for your help.
Most newbs obsess over their plants and tend to over water plants and over watered plants droop. That would be my first suggestion and would likely solve most issues. Getting a newb deep into PH would be bad advice as 98% of newb soil grown pot issues have nothing to do with PH, as others have pointed out.
 

sativa indica pits

Active Member
I listened to everyone!!! I did. I watered with unadjusted water with a ph of 7.5. 3-4 hrs later the plants looked like shit, they were drooped, not growing and they still look like death this morning. Its been over 24 hrs and the plants still are droopy, and the leaves are starting to turn purple and curl with the start of claws. Why isnt my soil buffering the high ph water?

This is most definitely, not an overwatering problem here. You can see the soil is moist but not soaked. These are 3 of four plants I watered with 7.5 water and left.View attachment 2946876View attachment 2946877View attachment 2946878 I only gave them 2 cups of plain 7.5 water and nothing else. I have not done anything else to these 3 plants.



This plant I watered with the 7.5 water then corrected with 1cup of 4.0 waterView attachment 2946879 the leaves are picking up 2 hrs after the 4.0 water.

This plant i watered with 6.5 water yesterday just as I always do,View attachment 2946880 very lush, fast growing. No issues with this plant what so ever.


My soil is moist but dry around the edgesView attachment 2946884 I do not soak my soil and let it stay wet. I always make sure I have a good wet/dry cycle and let the soil dry before I water again.

A very nice soil mix buffered with woodashView attachment 2946885 pro-mix mycorrhizae, vermiculite, perlite, mycos, compost, gypsum, woodash, worm castings, bat guano, green sand.

This is the rest of the plants I watered with ph'd 6.5 water. I always water my plants with the correct ph water(unless im experimenting with ph) I dont think there is one single yellow leaf in this whole set of 30+ strainsView attachment 2946886View attachment 2946887

I agree about not getting a newb deep into the workings of ph, but an understanding of ph is important part of having a successful grow. Being able to properly diagnose a ph problem right as it happens is also very helpful for a new grower.

In my experience, I grew ok plants when I first started. But the more I grew, I noticed what the plants liked and what they didnt like. I started to play around with ph and saw plants watered with the right ph were faster bigger and a lot better yielding than the plants I got lazy and just watered them with whatever ph water. After a few completed grows I determined the best way to make the plants into the best they could be was to feed them exactly what they want and what they need , which is a ph of 6.5-6.6.

I have ran grows at 6.0-6.2 the plants were weak, yellow and the yield was small I have ran grows at 6.8-7.0. the plants were green and healthy but the smoke was harsh, wasnt very potent and didnt have much of a smell. The yield was also smaller.

Every cannabis plant I have grown inside from seed to seed grows best at a ph of 6.5-6.6 I have done many "tests and experiments" Ph, soil, lighting, water, temperature. I always use the same strain, run side by side in the same room and keep a control to compare my results with. Im very particular and overly cautious when running these "experiments" I keep everything labeled with dates and times, I write down all the steps I took. and I always compare the results with the control after the experiment is over. I note the results and move on.

Im very passionate when it come to my cannabis plants. Lie to me, steal from me, talk shit about me, But do not fuk with my plants. This is what I do and what I love. I have put my life on the line, put my freedom in jeopardy, I have been jailed for months and months to stand up for what I believe in and to be able to provide medicine to those who are less fortunate than me. There are so many benefits that come from cannabis. One of my patients is a minor with epilepsy. He was having up to 3-4 seizures a week. I have made a special strain for him with the highest cbd and cbn I could find. After he started using the tincture I made for him, his epilepsy has been suppressed and he has only had 2 seizures in the past 4 months. No other medicine the doctors prescribed has worked this well. He can live his life and 100% enjoys it much better now. His family has thanked me so many times and so much for giving their son and grandchild his life back.

I will continue to emphasize how important ph is when it comes to my grow, my plants, and my patients. And as always keep ph'ing my water.
 
I'm not sure you're following what I'm saying. My contention is that for the vast majority of folks that grow in soil, PH is a non issue. Therefore, for the vast majority of folks it doesn't make sense to test for and adjust PH.

All you've demonstrated is that in your environment, PH needs to be adjusted. If you were a newb I'd suggest that you choose a nute program that is more PH neutral, because that would be much simpler than adjusting PH every feeding.

And therein lie the reason you are getting so much flak for this thread; most of us realize that anyone can get the same results you are having with a few bags of promix, tap water, and an all in one fert. The grow I'm on now is perlite/peat/worm castings/ lime plus seven drops of shultz 10-15-10 per gallon, plus tap water and this grow is the best one yet. This plant is insanely easy to grow and where most folks get in to trouble is overthinking the process.
 

sativa indica pits

Active Member
Yea I totally agree, it is easy to grow and and get good results. The reason i have upgraded the soil and gone to full organic fert, is quality. I get a much better product with more care and energy into the watering and nutes. If I keep everything in check, I have a very high thc and cbd,cbn in the finished product.

when "I" grew with just pro-mix water and a general fert. the quality wasnt even close. I had one of my white russian phenos test 16.6% thc. I passed the cuts off to a 2-3 yr grower and the same clone from him tested 9% thc. I have a feeling this was because he kept it way to simple like soil, water, and general fert. His next grow was testing at 12-13% after adding a few things to the soil, keeping ph levels right at 6.5 and using 3+ sources for his nutes.

I aim for the highest quality medicine. If some one can mix a few things into the soil switch to specific n,p,k and micro ferts and up his thc by 4% I would tell him to do it.
 

tikitoker

Active Member
Yea I totally agree, it is easy to grow and and get good results. The reason i have upgraded the soil and gone to full organic fert, is quality. I get a much better product with more care and energy into the watering and nutes. If I keep everything in check, I have a very high thc and cbd,cbn in the finished product.

when "I" grew with just pro-mix water and a general fert. the quality wasnt even close. I had one of my white russian phenos test 16.6% thc. I passed the cuts off to a 2-3 yr grower and the same clone from him tested 9% thc. I have a feeling this was because he kept it way to simple like soil, water, and general fert. His next grow was testing at 12-13% after adding a few things to the soil, keeping ph levels right at 6.5 and using 3+ sources for his nutes.

I aim for the highest quality medicine. If some one can mix a few things into the soil switch to specific n,p,k and micro ferts and up his thc by 4% I would tell him to do it.
Agreed, all because a breeder says the strains THC profile is 16+ doesn't mean the plant will actually achieve those levels. It all comes down to the grower and everything he/she does during the plants life. No two results will be identical unless both cultivators replicated/excercised the same cultivation methods/conditions. One thing is for certain- optimal PH is 6.5, regardless of environmental conditions. The PH always fluctuates in soil- fact of life, however what goes in will influence the end result. For a noob it's very important to have an understanding of PH and it's cause/effect.
And lets face it, noobs always go overboard with ferts and watering and boosters, or ammended soil poorly, didnt add lime( which would have them posting) and it all comes down to the soil's ability to buffer PH, hold and release nutrients. I have had very low PH and high PH before and recall a day when I was still very new to this world of growing. I wish back then there was an individual (SIP) who cared enough to start a pictorial, on how to re-adjust/stabilize. This is a very useful post and I have found it to be quit accurate.
 

tikitoker

Active Member
I think it would be somewhat helpful to share the amount of water use for the correction. Too much of the 4.0 will drop it too far. Ideally it would be just enough to make a change within the soil. kinda like a helping hand, just enough to speed the reaction, or to speed up the already occurring rise/fall of PH. Once the plants rebound- then it's 6.5 going in always. Im not sure why your getting heat over this thread. Concept Is simple- every action has a reaction.
 

AllenHaze

Well-Known Member
It's a fact that most people suffer loyalty bias toward things they've already made their minds up about. Mao.
 

bamboofarmer

Well-Known Member
Hi everybody! I'm a brand new member. Just started growing about a month and a half ago. My plants have been doing the things shown in your pictures to a 't'. Growth has slowed to less than 1/4" per day, leaves are yellowing and curling under as well as major 'claw'. I don't think I have overwatered. I had been attributing my problems to nute toxicity, (used foxfarm grow big after 3 weeks of veg @ 1/2 strength, but quit almost immediately because stems turned purple) Recently got some ph up/down which came with a testing solution as well. Found out my water is up around 8 as best I can tell. Haven't tested run-off yet. I have been watering for about a week with water adjusted to 6.5 +-, but things still seem to be going south. I'm growing in Ferti-lome soil, in a 2'x3' closet with two 2' t-55 ho lights. I'm thinking maybe I'll flush with low ph water to try to achieve a balance more quickly. I have a feeling i'm going to lose one of my plants. I'll try to get some pics posted if anyone's interested in giving their opinion.
 
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