Yellowing/dying leaves on week 6 of flower.

Hey yo.

Two strains mixed in tent. LSD (3) and Sweet Island Skunk. (3)

1k HPS with Temperatures from 60F-77F. Humidity from 30-60%

Soil (Roots organics original mixed with coco/pearlite) 5 gallon plant warrior pots. Food is also Roots Organics full line/strength. 1/wk

Cloned/vegged for 3/mo prior to flower.

Ph in between 6-7. Ph out usually around 6.5. (Earth Juice crystals up and down)

Grew them both before and have taken me to harvest with no yellow leaves. (not necessarily a good thing)

This go around around 4 weeks into flower the rear plants (nearest the floor fans) started yellowing. It began to spread to the middle plants and eventually all of them by week 5 had some yellowing/dying fan leaves or even light yellow/green bud leaves.

At first I increased the amount of grow (N) I was adding and saw no improvement. Then I did a complete flush with 40g r/o to remove salts and re fed with full str at 6.5. Its been a week and I see more uniform yellowing and maybe a slight slow down in leaf decay.

I'm really scratching my head on this one. The ph tells me it can feed, the flowers other than yellow leaves look like they are developing normally. Trichome production has commenced.

Please share your thoughts.

Week 4:

Week 5:

Today:

i dont grow in soil. however it looks to me as if the plant is taking in the nutrients from the leaves not the soil.. is it possible its drying out between feedings?? my plants look like that after a week of flushing, so i know all the nuts are gone and the plant is using what is has stored in the leaves...i grow hydro though, never in soil but i would think its the same thing

@TheChemist77 I'm the finger up to the knuckle kind of grower when I check for dryness. So they tend to stay pretty wet, sometime I would think its too wet in there based on the scent.

However when the first one began to yellow it was the first time it wilted a bit from dryness. Its closest to the most powerful fan so it drys quicker. So its something to think about.

I agree it does look like the wilting I should see in week 10-13 however its happening really early. I don't want to lose all my factories before the jobs done... Thanks for the brainstorm though.

BluJayz said:

@TheChemist77 I'm the finger up to the knuckle kind of grower when I check for dryness. So they tend to stay pretty wet, sometime I would think its too wet in there based on the scent.

However when the first one began to yellow it was the first time it wilted a bit from dryness. Its closest to the most powerful fan so it drys quicker. So its something to think about.

I agree it does look like the wilting I should see in week 10-13 however its happening really early. I don't want to lose all my factories before the jobs done... Thanks for the brainstorm though.

Click to expand...

MOST PEOPLE ARE GOING TO TELL U ITS A NITROGEN DEFICIANT . but u raised the nitrogen levels, so thats not it,,tuff one ill think about it...hopefully someone can help u more than i can??

Thanks,

I was hanging out over in please-help-wk-6-look-like-they-are-dying

Some great points there from @Cannasutraorganics @workinit @Dr. Who @Alexander Supertramp

Discussing organics and not PHing. Not flushing organic soil. Using low levels of roots products and more All things i'm doing the opposite of... Hopefully we can get some more to chime in.

BluJayz said:

Thanks,

I was hanging out over in please-help-wk-6-look-like-they-are-dying

Some great points there from @Cannasutraorganics @workinit @Dr. Who @Alexander Supertramp

Discussing organics and not PHing. Not flushing organic soil. Using low levels of roots products and more All things i'm doing the opposite of... Hopefully we can get some more to chime in.

Click to expand...

its hard in soil as it can take weeks for the plant to show signs of a problem and weeks to fix it then.. in hydro they say problems can be seen in hours not days, but still fixing those problems such as yellowing can then take weeks to fix..im not big on flushing anymore i used to flush the last 2-3 weeks, but now only a few days as ive found keeping the nutes up increases the size of the buds the last 2 weeks and i cure them anyways so the flavor still comes out great..

P tox,,,classic signs! Too much P somehow!!!!
Review everything you put in and add up the NPK for a total NPK value. Adjust as needed to lower the P.
Your running organic nutes. No salts to "flush" out. DON'T flush.
Add an organic kelp product from the start on your next run. helps control P uptake and adds fulvic/humic acids - GOOD stuff!

Hey Chem,,,,,
5-7 days for a soil grow to express any problem or correction from onset or adjustment.
3-5 days for hydro.
ONLY N problems actually show a change in existing damage.
Everything else will only show corrections in the new growth.

I threw togeather a tea with seaplex and mycos and guano. Well see if I can bring back the soil from the flush. I thought about P too but couldn't see why same feeding schedule for years. I'm going to cut back to 1/2 str and I'm still on the fence on not ph the food…

Dr. Who said:

P tox,,,classic signs! Too much P somehow!!!!
Review everything you put in and add up the NPK for a total NPK value. Adjust as needed to lower the P.
Your running organic nutes. No salts to "flush" out. DON'T flush.
Add an organic kelp product from the start on your next run. helps control P uptake and adds fulvic/humic acids - GOOD stuff!

Hey Chem,,,,,
5-7 days for a soil grow to express any problem or correction from onset or adjustment.
3-5 days for hydro.
ONLY N problems actually show a change in existing damage.
Everything else will only show corrections in the new growth.

Click to expand...

who,, if its 3-5 days in hydro, at first sing of yellowing leaves, i realized my tubes were clogged w/ roots so a couple plants began to yellow..i fixed the problem, at that point most leaves on 2 plants were yellow and begining to crisp on edges.. anyways the problem has been fixed over a week now, the yellow crisp leaves were pulled,, the new bud leaves and new foilage is green again however the partly yellow leaves i did not pull are still yellow,,is it to late for them?? yield on these 2 plants will be way lower than expected and they are 3 weeks from harvest..these 2 plants actually look like there done wile all the others are still growing should i just pull them or can they come back in the next 3 weeks?? thanks for the help who,, you seem to be very knowledgable in growing,, u soil or hydro or both??

Many years, many styles. I still "play" with some hydro from time to time.
I prefer soil, organic, water only and build my own. I do like to use "Potters Gold" as my base.
I prefer the Rev's TLO style of water only organic.
I still run some "combo" grows of synthetic and organic AACT teas for nutrition and living bio supplementation.

As for your plant question.......
No. The yellow leaves will not "recover" to a normal healthy green.
ONLY N conditions will "recover" by adjustments.

What happened was your plants were deprived of the whole nutrient "spectrum". Thus the plant(s) lost required amounts of everything. Not just N. So the leaves expressing the def will not "recover".

NOW THE GOOD NEWS

You say there are 3 weeks to go. The plant has not missed the all important "bulking" phase!
You will see increase in bud size and density. The only real loss should be that they may not reach there true potential in size, but it should not be to bad. The quality of the smoke should not be effected if you continue the feeding in this most critical of times.

I would say if you don't already,,,,,run 7 to 10+ days LONGER then the seed breeders report says to! Those are only general guide lines.

They'll do FINE.

Good luck

Doc

thanks doc, you can check out my journal if you want,
https://www.rollitup.org/t/chemist77-pic-journal.850252/

BluJayz said:

I threw togeather a tea with seaplex and mycos and guano. Well see if I can bring back the soil from the flush. I thought about P too but couldn't see why same feeding schedule for years. I'm going to cut back to 1/2 str and I'm still on the fence on not ph the food…

Click to expand...

Hey I'm it's a older thread,but what ever happened with your lady ? I would say a toxicity aswell p or k,I'm leaning towards p toxicity because I also have similar issues with my girls at week 6, I top dressed with bone meal,mixed half cup in with the soil and I believe this created my imbalance. The most effected seems to be on track with decent sized buds,dense bud site growth and the frost!!! by far the most frosty flower I've grown for sure!!! She is beginning to show purple on leaves and grows thicker every day. I've also noticed brown spots forming on leaf margins and just treated my clones for a cal-mag lockout that expressed similar markings. The pH got really low from ipm applications and I caught it by accident so no harm done but Lmk what happened and what you did to correct ?