Yellowing. Deficiency?

My trainwreck and a few others have a yellowing throughout the leaves including new growth from how it looks to me.

Plant is 2 months old today.
Roots organic soil. Will post nute schedule in 2nd post from computer.

Under 600w hps. Still vegging 18/6.

Started from seed and my first grow.
Does she look like she is needing something?

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Rollitup mobile app

i know ur not suppose to give a plant alot of superthrive like 2 to 3 times max in veg i think the new growth yellowing i think is normal just not too much but it looks like a mag deficiency to me if u could find out the ph runoff that would help figure things out
hope i helped

Looks like you need to up the nutes looks healthy other than the yellowing. Id agree with sourdiesel looks more towards a mag deficiency.

up the cal mag 2.5-3 ml per gal.every other water u should increase volume of water to get a good run off.i run into prob. later in flower w/build up in fabric of pot also try bottom feeding w/smart pots fill ur saucer 4-5 times also prevents buildup.

best results w/superthrive 1 DROP per gal. no bs

flower pharm said:

best results w/superthrive 1 DROP per gal. no bs

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Go for soil as well? and when do you cut your plant off completely from it?

flower pharm said:

up the cal mag 2.5-3 ml per gal.every other water u should increase volume of water to get a good run off.i run into prob. later in flower w/build up in fabric of pot also try bottom feeding w/smart pots fill ur saucer 4-5 times also prevents buildup.

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I am going to try bumping up the cal-mag on next feed.
I'm not too familiar with bottom feeding in general, so I will look into this.

Thanks for the input as well as the other guys who've chimed in.

i use superthrive 4wks into flower then stop.

I would get a different nutrient . and problem solved . my opinion. I know about super thrive . I used it in the past not overly impressed .

so u can just change nutes and fix it?

kinddiesel said:

I would get a different nutrient . and problem solved . my opinion. I know about super thrive . I used it in the past not overly impressed .

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im not sure how changing nutes will fix anything.unless u address the def. and what exactly do you "know"about superthrive?ever used it at one drop per gal?

that is the problem . what is your drop is bigger then mine ? what kind of measurement is a drop ? what about a teaspoon. better guide to get an accurate amount of nutrients per gallon . I used to use full cap full per gallon . on the small bottle .

I not saying use a teaspoon or capful. I am saying the measurement of super thrive sucks .

Superthrive= 1tsp per 5gallons...this is the rate I hear from people who know. Be careful with that stuff, it has plant hormone in it. I use it when I first take clones OR sometimes I will use it if a plant looks a little behind or sickly-Not sure if it works or I'm just nursing clones and sick plants more then my vigorous ones and they end up rooting or eventually doing well. A few mentors have told me to only use it for when you first cut clones, transplants IF your running a strain that doesn't like them(I never had that problem), or a last 'try' for slow or sickly plants.

I don't think it's a cal/mag issue...looks like they are just plain hungry. Up their feed slowly, 50-100ppm a week. When the plants are hungry new growth looks slightly lighter than usual and color starts getting 'sucked' out throughout the plant. Nitrogen is usually first. Since N is a mobile nutrient, it will start sucking color FROM top to bottom, so the top half of your plant might look slightly more 'deficient' then the bottom half.

If it was mag you would have more even bleaching inbetween leaf veins, and if it was cal you would start to have burnt looking tips, splotchy leaves, maybe even dark spots starting on your leaves.

I think your plant may want a little more everything, looks like multiple deficiencies starting. Up their base nutrient. Much better to have hungry plants then burnt ones...

Of course, this is all in my humble opinion.

i agree be careful thats still about 100% more than ive used per gal.

The creepy old man on the bottle is enough of a reason to stay away from it!

if people did research on how many products contain same hormones all smack talking would stop

Squidbilly said:

Since N is a mobile nutrient, it will start sucking color FROM top to bottom, so the top half of your plant might look slightly more 'deficient' then the bottom half.

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Squid, are you sure that's what you wanted to write? I borrowed this from Michigan State University Extension:

"Once inside plants, nutrients are transported to where they are needed, typically to growing points. Once incorporated by the plant, some elements can be immobile while others can be remobilized. Immobile elements essentially get locked in place and that is where they stay. Those that can be remobilized can leave their original location and move to areas of greater demand. Knowing which are mobile or immobile is helpful in diagnosing deficiency symptoms.

Since immobile elements do not easily move within the plant, when deficiency symptoms occur they show up in new growth (Photo 1). When mobile elements become limiting, they can be scavenged from older growth and moved to where they are most needed, causing deficiency symptoms in older growth"

As you said, N is mobile, but that means the plant can take it from old leaves and move it to the new growth. Mobile goes up. AFAIK a mobile element never goes down, because a plant will always prioritize new growth over old.

I'm pretty sure you understand mobility, I just wanted to point it out so someone doesn't get confused.

god i love proper use of education