Hey indef! Appreciated all your guidance through my think tank, thought I'd bother you with a couple more newbie questions
OK
First, Al b duct says he uses a 175mm by135mm for the clones? My question is how many clones would I fit into one smart pot?
Second, since I will have both tables in the same tent? Can I combine the resevoir systems systems, and use the same quad (12.5 per minute pump)? I think that wouldake 800 litter resivoir in all
What are your macro and miro nutes looking like?
And lastly, do you use a water chiller?
Got to admit I was a little nervous about asking these, so I figured I'd just do research for myself like I was before but, I found it to be counterproductive and overwhelming with all the types of data out there, please help me thanks
All notes below are from Al B Fuct :
That's what I based my op on, I followed his directions as close as possible.
It's a long read but worth reading and taking notes from.
Below is my summary, hope it helps.
Nutrients
Yep, I use ONLY the Canna Vega & Flores A&B, H2O2 50 % strength @ 1ml/L every 3-4 days and phosphoric acid based pH Down if I top the tanks with plain tapwater. However, I don't usually have to top up the tanks; my 250L tanks are fairly well matched to the water consumption of the plants. This is to say that the TDS/EC of the nute solns remains constant as the water level drops over the 14 days between tank dumps.
If h2o2 is only 29% ,so around 1.72 or round up to 1.8 ml per liter every 3/4 days
Enzymes are proteins. H2O2 breaks down enzymes on contact, so I have no use for Cannazym.
revised the nute strength downward. 1000-1100ppm from go to whoa.
A plant that's not getting enough nitrogen will generally appear yellowish/sallow.
If you run your tanks at 1000ppm, you simply won't see nute deficiencies.
In most cases where a grower thinks they've seen deficiencies, 99% of the time, it's a pH problem. The magic number for cannabis in hydroponics is 5.8. Running the pH too low or too high will cause nute lockout.
1000ppm @ 5.8 and you're golden.
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"Just to clarify, when you talk about 1000ppm you are using are using a .7 conversion. A.K.A. 1.5 EC."
I read 1000ppm directly off the meter, a Bluelab (fmrly NZ Hydroponics) Truncheon. Their TDS meter is the gold standard. Avoid the pH Truncheon, tho. Junk.
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Al, on the subject of using tap water and the fact RO is not needed... The water in my area is 500-600ppm is this still good.
The EC of your tapwater is most likely being caused by Ca & Mg as a result of water storage in lakes, reservoirs & passage through rivers, underground aquifers. If you want a nute concentration of 1000ppm & your water is 500ppm out of the tap, mix for 1500.
Beats me. I use a Bluelab Truncheon TDS meter and run everything at indicated 1000ppm.
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You're looking for EC 1.5-1.6, which registers on the Bluelab Truncheon as 1050-1120ppm.
Also have started using Canna PK1314 again since Canna have posted some good instructions on how to use it. With past instructions, I was consistently getting nute burn. Did one batch at 1ml/L for week 5 and 6.
PK really helps with bud density. Presently using it at 1.5ml/L in tank 3 for weeks 5 & 6 along with Canna Flores at 3ml/L. Would be safe to say that PK is good for 20% uptick in yield weight.
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pH jumping up is usually a pretty reliable indicator of pathogen infection in the rootmass. Don't adjust pH of water before mixing with nutes. 5.5 is too low, in any instance. The magic number for pH in hydroponics is 5.8. Make sure your pH meter is not lying to you. Calibrate your pH meter before EACH use, employing reference standard 4.0 & 7.0 solutions. Colour-matching pH test kits are not suitable for hydroponics. If you don't have one, get a good pH meter.