Window A/C???

TheChemist77

Well-Known Member
c
Just wondering....

I have x2 1000w and I'm wondering if a 12000btu window a/c will be able to cool those in an 8 X 5 X 7.5h room (if the hoods are not being air cooled)?

In my last grow, I had a 6X7X7 room with the x2 1000w cooled by one 6" fan and the 6000btu window A/C was not enough to cool the 1000s so they could be used. I had to dim down to 750w on both.
cant you use cooltube reflectors and get a couple 200cfm inlines and exaughst the lights heat right out?? doing that would reduce heat to a point were the airconditioner wouldnt have to work so hard,,pluss save u cash on electric???
 

hydrolyzed

Active Member
The inverse square law negates the whole glass lumen loss. Even if you lose 10% light through the glass, your bulbs will be HOT and you wont be able to get the bare bulbs anywhere near where you can get an air cooled hood. Remember every time you double the light distance from the plants your reducing your lumens by 4x. Example, if you have a bulb making 100,000 lumens @ 1 foot, and run the bulb 1 foot above the canopy (a good height for most strains with a 1kw bulb) you will be getting 90,000 lumens at the plant. Now if you don't air cool your hoods, you will be getting a shitload of radiant heat off the bulb all pointing down towards the plant and the minimum safe distance is more like 2 feet, so you just doubled your light distance, therefore decreasing your 100,000 lumens to 25,000 lumens.

90,000 lumens, or 25,000 lumens? The choice has always been obvious to me.
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
The inverse square law negates the whole glass lumen loss. Even if you lose 10% light through the glass, your bulbs will be HOT and you wont be able to get the bare bulbs anywhere near where you can get an air cooled hood. Remember every time you double the light distance from the plants your reducing your lumens by 4x. Example, if you have a bulb making 100,000 lumens @ 1 foot, and run the bulb 1 foot above the canopy (a good height for most strains with a 1kw bulb) you will be getting 90,000 lumens at the plant. Now if you don't air cool your hoods, you will be getting a shitload of radiant heat off the bulb all pointing down towards the plant and the minimum safe distance is more like 2 feet, so you just doubled your light distance, therefore decreasing your 100,000 lumens to 25,000 lumens.

90,000 lumens, or 25,000 lumens? The choice has always been obvious to me.
I can keep an unaircooled hood just as close as you can an air cooled. The secret is a lot of air flow through your room to disperse the heat. Also to note, once you get over a certain number of hoods, air cooling them because even more of a hassle. Air cooling hoods is for tent grows.

And it's not just about "light" loss. Glass doesn't let much UV through, which is what drives resin production. Your basically paying for your glass to absorb needed spectrumsfor ultimate production.
 
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hydrolyzed

Active Member
I can keep an unaircooled hood just as close as you can an air cooled. The secret is a lot of air flow through your room to disperse the heat. Also to note, once you get over a certain number of hoods, air cooling them because even more of a hassle. Air cooling hoods is for tent grows.

And it's not just about "light" loss. Glass doesn't let much UV through, which is what drives resin production. Your basically paying for your glass to absorb needed spectrumsfor ultimate production.

First of all...

Marijuana Resin & THC
An Excerpt from Marijuana Grower's Insider's Guide

Resin itself, or an abundance of resin glands, is not a good indictator of potency. A mj variety may have copious amounts of resin and still be nearly worthless for smoking; another variety may have little apparent resin, but it may be super-potent. This is because much of the resin is made up of inactive ingredients, and the resin might contain mostly inactive cannaboids. Also, the active cannaboids (THC,THCV, etc.) are only necessary in amounts small enough that they may not be major components in the resin. Surprisingly, the few scientific studies that have compared the concentration of resin glands or resin to potency have found that the concentration of resin glands was negatively correlated with the potency (in other words, the fact that a variety of mj is resinous or has a lot of resin glands has little to do with its potency) Experience connoissers actually may look for a non-resinous but very potent variety - who needs cough inducing resin if it doesn't add to the high?


So your argument for no glass for more resin is a moot one at best.

"air cooled hoods is for tent grows" lol. Larger warehouse grows don't air cool hoods because they usually don't run sealed and can use cheap fans to exhaust the heat with little to no AC. Decent sized rooms with 20 or less lights that want the benefit of CO2 but also would rather spend 2000w of fans instead of 20,000w or more of AC are also good candidates for air cooled hoods. It's not very hard to air cool more than a few hoods. I run 6 and 12 air cooled hoods inline with one high output fan in the center of the strings of hoods and save thousands a year on electricity while enjoying the yield and plant health benefits of CO2 and also not having to worry about the hot spot, radiant heat, and fire issues non cooled hoods come with. I also doubt your "I can get my non air cooled as close as your air cooled". I can have my tops touching the glass, 3" away from the bulbs....you would need hurricane force winds blowing on a plant top that's 3" away from an uncooled 1kw bulb to not scorch them.
 

a mongo frog

Well-Known Member
Fucking 3 inches away!!!!!! Now thats light management.... The key to growing "Light Management" . And a good plant food of course.
 

TheChemist77

Well-Known Member
love my cool tubes!! and heat is not an issue...but always have more than enough air circulation, a vibrating plant is a strong stemmed plant.. strong enough to support buds without using wires or sticks
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
First of all...

Marijuana Resin & THC
An Excerpt from Marijuana Grower's Insider's Guide


Resin itself, or an abundance of resin glands, is not a good indictator of potency. A mj variety may have copious amounts of resin and still be nearly worthless for smoking; another variety may have little apparent resin, but it may be super-potent. This is because much of the resin is made up of inactive ingredients, and the resin might contain mostly inactive cannaboids. Also, the active cannaboids (THC,THCV, etc.) are only necessary in amounts small enough that they may not be major components in the resin. Surprisingly, the few scientific studies that have compared the concentration of resin glands or resin to potency have found that the concentration of resin glands was negatively correlated with the potency (in other words, the fact that a variety of mj is resinous or has a lot of resin glands has little to do with its potency) Experience connoissers actually may look for a non-resinous but very potent variety - who needs cough inducing resin if it doesn't add to the high?


So your argument for no glass for more resin is a moot one at best.

"air cooled hoods is for tent grows" lol. Larger warehouse grows don't air cool hoods because they usually don't run sealed and can use cheap fans to exhaust the heat with little to no AC. Decent sized rooms with 20 or less lights that want the benefit of CO2 but also would rather spend 2000w of fans instead of 20,000w or more of AC are also good candidates for air cooled hoods. It's not very hard to air cool more than a few hoods. I run 6 and 12 air cooled hoods inline with one high output fan in the center of the strings of hoods and save thousands a year on electricity while enjoying the yield and plant health benefits of CO2 and also not having to worry about the hot spot, radiant heat, and fire issues non cooled hoods come with. I also doubt your "I can get my non air cooled as close as your air cooled". I can have my tops touching the glass, 3" away from the bulbs....you would need hurricane force winds blowing on a plant top that's 3" away from an uncooled 1kw bulb to not scorch them.
I'm not gonna sit here and argue with you. Ask any commercial grower if they would even think of air cooling hoods, they will laugh at you and the thought of paying $300 for a single hood. I do not consider a 6 light operation "commercial" nor a 12.
I air cooled for years. When I made the switch to non aircooled, the yeild and quality increase spoke for itself.

When you get to a certain point, fresh air rooms are not worth it. I know maybe 2 or 3 commercial grows that pull fresh air, they constantly hav bugs and small yeilds. While those who spend money on ac and proper co2 equipment, never have bugs an huge yields. When you spend 250k on a grow, bringing in fresh air is a joke.
 
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TheChemist77

Well-Known Member
agree ac way better for control and no bugs.. but a cool tube reflector in some caces saves money..mine included...
 

hydrolyzed

Active Member
I'm not gonna sit here and argue with you. Ask any commercial grower if they would even think of air cooling hoods, they will laugh at you and the thought of paying $300 for a single hood. I do not consider a 6 light operation "commercial" nor a 12.
I air cooled for years. When I made the switch to non aircooled, the yeild and quality increase spoke for itself.

When you get to a certain point, fresh air rooms are not worth it. I know maybe 2 or 3 commercial grows that pull fresh air, they constantly hav bugs and small yeilds. While those who spend money on ac and proper co2 equipment, never have bugs an huge yields. When you spend 250k on a grow, bringing in fresh air is a joke.
I agree about very large commercial grows, but this guy is talking about a tent lol. I think the benefits of air cooling are "worth it" for smaller grows and the benefits of open air bulbs are "worth it" for large, 20+ light grows.
 

TheChemist77

Well-Known Member
i have a 10x10 room seperated with a 3x10 space for veg and a 7x10 ft space for bloom.. i use both intake air from outside, exaust hot air out roof, and an ac unit that is exausted through a 5inch duct to outside.. i use both, mostly outside air through winter and any time outside temps are below 60f, so i can get away with using the ac only 2-3 months of the year..my intake from outside goes through a houshold filter so no bugs, pollen or alergens get in..but my cool tube reflectors are needed to get the bulb heat out, and the roomis temp controled w/ fans everywere,especially at plant canopy...
 
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