will this A/C work

why don't i ever hear of anyine using these
https://www.amgair.com/frigidaire-ffrp152lt3-15k-ptac-corrosion-guard.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=5390&gclid=CjwKCAiA4t_iBRApEiwAn-vt-3uUcDBkcA5TtiWaW7N4FKBQE-vUH5wMTXmClP9Q78LHUBnVJDPXxRoCqgAQAvD_BwE

i cannot use a mini split, and i am trying to cool a 4 x 600w HiD setup. room aprox 10x8 canopy 8x6

**i can air cool the hoods to, but the plan is CMH DE down the road so will this cool a 4 light set up with those as well. basicalli am putting this A/C thru the interior wal in my basement which is partitioned into seperate rooms. any issues from an hvac guy, not anyone repeating shit they read elsewhere please

Because you still have to have the heat exhausted outside? using the outdoor grid? Says it in the manual. Its basically the same as a window unit, with a hole in the wall instead.

mobone said:

Because you still have to have the heat exhausted outside? using the outdoor grid? Says it in the manual. Its basically the same as a window unit, with a hole in the wall instead.

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but can't i duct it into another room with an open window? like a insulated vent hose out the back. my understanding is these go direct out the back making this easier

All I can say is it would work IF you can keep the condenser coil below 110F, otherwise it's gonna fry the unit in short time. Note the wall will become a radiant heater if not well insulated and it's 90 degrees on the other side.

Yea theres unfortunately no easy way around it. There's no way to cool a room without putting the heat somewhere else. And when you put the heat into another room, it just keeps making that room hotter and hotter to the point that its unbearable or causes the unit to fail.

I pulled it off fine ducting into another well ventilated room , I was using 2X1000W hps tho

aquadel said:

I pulled it off fine ducting into another well ventilated room , I was using 2X1000W hps tho

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thank you this is what i needed to hear before starting. yes, my other room has open windows it is a non issue regardign the compressor getting too hot. it is a huge room and i don't A/C the whole place so all the windows are open. it's the grow room that is sealed off. it would not even get close to 100 in that room. ca i aks how many btu's for your light and dehum output? i know the rule is 4x's the wattage used in room.
i was thinking a 12k to 15k thru wall unit unducted but in an open room with some outdoor air ciruculation, cooling a sealed room of 20x10 at first i am gonna make a veg area out of part of it later, canopy tho in this big room with that A/C is only 4 600w HiD 6x8 canopy.
you think i can keep that room 85? i will be using tyvek insulated sheeting instead of drywall on both sides of studs to seal in the room, and keep the heat from the room the compressor is in from effecting the area i'm cooling

1 watt = 3.412142 btu.

Just add up the total wattage you are going to be using and get the next size up so it isn't constantly running. Oversizing helps with efficiency and longevity of the unit.

Actually a perfectly sized unit would run constantly and maintain temps. Cycling on and off decreases the life of the unit.

The exception is a minisplit because they arent just on or off, they use inverter technology to only run as hard as they have to. Those you should oversize.

Renfro said:

Actually a perfectly sized unit would run constantly and maintain temps. Cycling on and off decreases the life of the unit.

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it's expensive to run all the time, gotta make some trade offs. if i get a cpl years from a $600 thru wall i'd be happy

Well the cost of running a larger compressor for a shorter time would be about the same as running a smaller one all the time. Plus they draw more power each time they start up. If the unit is way to oversized it wont run much and therefore wont remove much humidity and a dehumidifier will have to run to make up the difference.

Just trying to help you out with many years of experience.

Whats gonna suck is when the AC craps out mid run.