Why dont any of my seed germinate?

2ANONYMOUS said:

I dunno personally i would stay away from heat mats you can very easily cook seeds as well .. best thing is a dome and T5 ho , use paper towel method and place paper towel into another clear plastic container, that has lid i like making a layer of ass wipe then mist it real good place seeds on top then another layer of ass wipe on top misted so its extremely damp close plastic lid place in dome under T5 and 100 percent germination in less then 24 hrs every time

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Thanks. I was really looking for an excuse to not buy a heat mat.

What's a T5 though , man?

heisenburger said:

So, I tried planting some bagseed in the soil .

Then I learnt about paper towel and before soak method. So I kept my seed immersed in water for 24 hours and then placed them in wet paper towel in dark.

I also sowed some seeds in a small pot which I water daily .

Is it because of the cold? Because the temp here is about 15-25 c in day 9-11 °c at night.

Its been about 2-3 days, none of the seeds have broken. Its ruining my new year.

What has been your experience with bag seeds?

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Dude,are you kidding? just to put it simple. Don't sow your your seed any where you are not comfortable naked!

hotrodharley said:

I have never cooked a seed on a seedling mat. Of course I know what I'm doing and pay attention to it too. Best root development in any plant is from warm soil, not what you feed it.

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Right seedlings don't need any food, that's what the cotyledons are for. Seed mats are crucial, depending on ambient temps, especially as winter arrives.

Just be sure to use the better domes, that have the roof vents so u don't cook the seeds or cuttings.

abe supercro said:

Right seedlings don't need any food, that's what the cotyledons are for. Seed mats are crucial, depending on ambient temps, especially as winter arrives.

Just be sure to use the better domes, that have the roof vents so u don't cook the seeds or cuttings.

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Thanks man.
. Glad u got your naan though .

I think people fuck around to much when it comes to seedlings or clones 99 percent of the time its human error Keep it simple method , which includes time i suggest anyone reading up on natures clock as in seasonal planting and sowing to grasp the concept...
I mean not sure what is taught in schools anymore but this is elementary
i seed in feb out door in green houses with no ill effects even indoor my rooms are in low 50's Cellar area ..
One of the first things any grower should invest in is a a dome and tray and couple T5's and thermometer.. run dome or couple days fine tune it so temps are in the 70's and your on your way

If your new to it all run trials before starting expensive seeds go purchase some seeds like tomato's peas anything etc just to get hang of it place towels under dome to raise it from cold tops etc ,, its really that easy if temps cannot reach 70's then cover dome with towel etc
5 -6 years ago i used to seed approx 450,000 seeds for spring run starting in end of Jan ( Botanic garden ) let alone clone from them all for yearly sales once you realize or get your sequence , and all aspects in order its simple
anyways good luck find your way and run with it

abe supercro said:

Right seedlings don't need any food, that's what the cotyledons are for. Seed mats are crucial, depending on ambient temps, especially as winter arrives.

Just be sure to use the better domes, that have the roof vents so u don't cook the seeds or cuttings.

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Thats not true although cotyledons are are source of protein at early seedling stage we have ran tests where samples of seedlings in threee different groups one non fed other seedlings giving 150 ppm , and 250 ppm etc we seen seedlings strive on nutrient rich soil rather then they myth of cotyledon to drain plants resources
Truth is don't start starving your plant or think its ok to your stressing the plant at the get go ,, when transplanting germinated seed into a medium seedling ferts have to be immediately available
We usually mix 70 - 30 mix of worm casting and peat moss at this stage like pictures above by second week transplant a mixture of 350 ppm of well balanced nutrient mix is applied with crazy growth ..

heisenburger said:

Thanks. I was really looking for an excuse to not buy a heat mat.

What's a T5 though , man?

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T5's are fluor tubes (shop lights) t5 is the size they are high output and great for vegging seedlings and clones there are also t8s and t10s there just different sizes t5 ho is the best to use tho

keep it frosty, stay high

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420monster said:

T5's are fluor tubes (shop lights) t5 is the size they are high output and great for vegging seedlings and clones there are also t8s and t10s there just different sizes t5 ho is the best to use tho

keep it frosty, stay high

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It all makes sense now.Thanks brother

heisenburger said:

It all makes sense now.Thanks brother

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That's what everyone is here for to help each other out share there knowledge and become more informed about a common passion we all share just please don't feed the trolls

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bird mcbride said:

Now that I'm older and don't have the want for BS, I simply place the seed appropriately in a piece of soaked Rockwool and plant them directly into the budding table.

The temps in the budding room is set not to go below 69F and not above 80F.

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Yeah, I have good luck in the flowering room popping seeds too. I don't even use rockwool but sew them directly into the flowering plants soil. I also think that the lower content of N in the soil helps too. When they pop they always have some shade which is helpful.

Moldy said:

Yeah, I have good luck in the flowering room popping seeds too. I don't even use rockwool but sew them directly into the flowering plants soil. I also think that the lower content of N in the soil helps too. When they pop they always have some shade which is helpful.

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The tables are filled with hydroton so if I don't put it in a small piece of rockwool it could get washed out of position.
Seedlings can get by to a certain point on plain water but at the same time they can go in the same res mix as the older plants.
Hydroton and Rockwool haven't any NPK.

Moldy said:

Two months? They should pop when a glass of water gets too close.

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They must have good bud where he's from. Ours has plenty of healthy seeds. xD

Give it some time. Some seeds take longer than others. Heat shouldn't be an issue seedlings are more cold tolerant than mature plants. In nature they sprout as soon as they are moist and above freezing.

Igotthe6 said:

Dude,are you kidding? just to put it simple. Don't sow your your seed any where you are not comfortable naked!

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I can walk out the door naked anytime and never nothing but bears and foxes etc I have to call for snow plow service

Property in the boonies is still affordable...for people that don't mind mumbling to themselves