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Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
Ok, thanks I'll try it out and see what I get! Gonna make a journal once I get my set-up complete. One other question I have though is I've heard the plants use more of the 2700k light for flowering... would it be beneficial to maybe swap one of the 6500k ones for a 2nd 2700k in the flowering phase or perhaps introduce a 5th bulb? Or are you suggesting keeping the 6500ks to promote more growth to get possibly a bigger yield with less light or something to that effect?
This is a common misperception. The peak wavelength for photosynthesis is a very narrow window pretty far into the red spectrum. The spectrum that corresponds to the 2700K color temperature actually peaks a little too close to orange, and a vast majority of the energy you are providing is not especially photosynthetically active. 2100K to 2300K is much more ideal when it comes to providing an efficient direction of PAR right in the spectrum the chlorophyll will benefit from the most. For this reason I suggest higher wattage 2700K Soft white bulbs to maximize the amount of energy you will get directly to the upper (heaviest flowering) part of the plant.

The Day Light spectrum, 5000K to 7000K bulbs, are much more efficient when it comes to giving your plant energy it can then directly translate into growth. The blue side of the light spectrum is a much larger window for maximum absorption so you will get a lot of energy to the plant with the day light bulbs. The higher color bulbs, 6500K and up, will actually carry very low levels of UV-A and UV-B (so put your stunner shades on inside the grow room dude!) and this radiation will assist trichome development later into flowering with a persistent bombardment of low level radiation. Trichomes are actually a reaction of the plant to coat the seed casings in a compound that acts like a natural sunscreen.

The idea here is to use enough red light to encourage the production of much needed flowering hormones, but not to dedicate so much of the total energy there that the plant fails to reach its full growth potential. The imbalance of the day light bulbs to soft white bulbs will allow your plants to fill out much better and produce perhaps 10% more trichomes than if running on only soft white light.

Here's a picture of a grow I did that is very similiar to what you are describing. There is a 46w soft white, and everything else is a 27w 5700K and 7000K daylight cfls.
IMG_0514.jpg
IMG_0513.jpg
These clones are from a Kandy Kush x Skunk #1 mother plant. They were placed directly into 12/12 lighting in a very ghetto cab I constructed. There's maybe 200w or so of total lighting, 5 plants. This picture is just before harvesting at about 65 days from cloning. I waited until they tipped over under their own weight.

Of all the plants I've grown and smoked this was some of the best. From this cheap ghetto ass cab I made bud that tasted and smelled like sour skittles and cotton candy had an illegitimate love child named Kandy, who ironically gave you the best lap dance you've ever had.

Trust me on this one, when it comes to CFL, you definitely want to have a dominant daylight spectrum, but that isn't to say you ignore soft white altogether.
 
well i only have 1 bulb its a 200w cfl n i have both the blue n red spec so wood i wanna change cycle to 12/12 wait a week er so then switch from blue to red spec to get some blue in durn flowern? or shood i jus time cycle n spec at same time?
 

Scias13

Member
This is a common misperception. The peak wavelength for photosynthesis is a very narrow window pretty far into the red spectrum. The spectrum that corresponds to the 2700K color temperature actually peaks a little too close to orange, and a vast majority of the energy you are providing is not especially photosynthetically active. 2100K to 2300K is much more ideal when it comes to providing an efficient direction of PAR right in the spectrum the chlorophyll will benefit from the most. For this reason I suggest higher wattage 2700K Soft white bulbs to maximize the amount of energy you will get directly to the upper (heaviest flowering) part of the plant.

The Day Light spectrum, 5000K to 7000K bulbs, are much more efficient when it comes to giving your plant energy it can then directly translate into growth. The blue side of the light spectrum is a much larger window for maximum absorption so you will get a lot of energy to the plant with the day light bulbs. The higher color bulbs, 6500K and up, will actually carry very low levels of UV-A and UV-B (so put your stunner shades on inside the grow room dude!) and this radiation will assist trichome development later into flowering with a persistent bombardment of low level radiation. Trichomes are actually a reaction of the plant to coat the seed casings in a compound that acts like a natural sunscreen.

The idea here is to use enough red light to encourage the production of much needed flowering hormones, but not to dedicate so much of the total energy there that the plant fails to reach its full growth potential. The imbalance of the day light bulbs to soft white bulbs will allow your plants to fill out much better and produce perhaps 10% more trichomes than if running on only soft white light.

Here's a picture of a grow I did that is very similiar to what you are describing. There is a 46w soft white, and everything else is a 27w 5700K and 7000K daylight cfls.
View attachment 1523748
View attachment 1523755
These clones are from a Kandy Kush x Skunk #1 mother plant. They were placed directly into 12/12 lighting in a very ghetto cab I constructed. There's maybe 200w or so of total lighting, 5 plants. This picture is just before harvesting at about 65 days from cloning. I waited until they tipped over under their own weight.

Of all the plants I've grown and smoked this was some of the best. From this cheap ghetto ass cab I made bud that tasted and smelled like sour skittles and cotton candy had an illegitimate love child named Kandy, who ironically gave you the best lap dance you've ever had.

Trust me on this one, when it comes to CFL, you definitely want to have a dominant daylight spectrum, but that isn't to say you ignore soft white altogether.
Wow nice man! Those buds look great :weed: What happened on the bottom leaves tho? Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out I appreciate it very much! I've been writing down everything I learn here on the forums and this post is definitely one for the books. Again thank you can't wait to start growin :leaf:
 

rufusgrower

Well-Known Member
i'm only using 2 15W 5600k bulbs and 1 20W red spec bulb dnt kno how many kelvin tho, and on my 3rd week they seem to be going alright My Camera 003.jpg
what do you think ?? how long do you think i have left till flowering and what bulbs should i use for that ? remembering that i have a very low budget. oh and i'm using LST on my plant
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
well i only have 1 bulb its a 200w cfl n i have both the blue n red spec so wood i wanna change cycle to 12/12 wait a week er so then switch from blue to red spec to get some blue in durn flowern? or shood i jus time cycle n spec at same time?
I think you can just run a balanced spectrum the whole way through. Really no reason to switch it up. A little blue light will help, but it isn't going to make or break your grow, and you can start flowering whenever you please.

Wow nice man! Those buds look great :weed: What happened on the bottom leaves tho? Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out I appreciate it very much! I've been writing down everything I learn here on the forums and this post is definitely one for the books. Again thank you can't wait to start growin :leaf:
The bottom leaves were a result of the cloning process as the plant consumed itself. I was really hands off with that grow, I would forget about it for days at a time...

i'm only using 2 15W 5600k bulbs and 1 20W red spec bulb dnt kno how many kelvin tho, and on my 3rd week they seem to be going alright View attachment 1523764
what do you think ?? how long do you think i have left till flowering and what bulbs should i use for that ? remembering that i have a very low budget. oh and i'm using LST on my plant
Looking good. The color is always a little tough to tell in translation from camera to the net but watch your N ratio as you move forward. You might be a little rich in nitrogen for your given lighting situation.
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
sorry a new grower what do you mean by 'N ratio' and how can i lower the nitrogen ? thanks for the help though
I am referring to the balance of nitrogen to phosphorus, potassium, and calcium. If you are not using nutrients then just rinse through the soil real good once. Not really a flush, just a good rinse and get rid of all that runoff. This will help regulate the nitrate levels in the soil. If you're in peat, coco, and/or if you're using nutrients then simply cut back on any nutrient that contains a high level of N and add just a slight amount of a pk booster to balance the whole ratio. The same amount of food overall, but a little more balance in the system when it comes to the NPK ratio and what your plant is really looking for.

Are you using nutrients? Or are you just in soil? Have you checked the pH recently?
 

rufusgrower

Well-Known Member
i'm only using soil and a small hand full of worm castings put in when i re potted . and no i haven't i don't know where to get a ph tester
 
First post ever, I need HELP ASAP!!!! (sry if this the wrong place to post, just show me where to look, thnx)
Quick intro: this is my first time grow and have little to no background on gardening. i have a 5x5x6.7 with a 1000w lamp with 2 small fans, carbon filter, and a external 6in in-line fan. I'm already investing in more fans and outside temp gauge.
Question: the temp inside the tent in 81 F, is that too hot and how can i lower it???
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
i'm only using soil and a small hand full of worm castings put in when i re potted . and no i haven't i don't know where to get a ph tester
Worm castings are very high in nitrogen, so washing that through will help balance everything. You can find pH testing equipment online or at a plant nursery. hell, I think even walmart and target have em.

First post ever, I need HELP ASAP!!!! (sry if this the wrong place to post, just show me where to look, thnx)
Quick intro: this is my first time grow and have little to no background on gardening. i have a 5x5x6.7 with a 1000w lamp with 2 small fans, carbon filter, and a external 6in in-line fan. I'm already investing in more fans and outside temp gauge.
Question: the temp inside the tent in 81 F, is that too hot and how can i lower it???
Try to decrease the intake temperatures and increase your ventilation abilities. The fewer crimps and turns in your ducting the better. There's really only one way, and it is to move more air. An intake fan will help drop the temperatures a few degrees, so you can consider a 4" axial fan to help with the flow of cool air from the outside into the tent.
 

mrjonesez

Member
hey guys, give me your best shot at this to help me figure out what is going on. its jack herer feminized seed then cloned.
its under a 1000watter about 14 or so inches from the tops. I noticed i yellowing of the flower. i describe it as being a tight dande lion look alike. think its heat stress or hermie. I dont see any nuts on this bitch but the yellowing is alarming.
guys, after observing for a few. I came up with that these yellow things on bud is just immature flowers. some have turned green already. pretty sure its not a hermie, im glad i didnt yank her!!!
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
guys, after observing for a few. I came up with that these yellow things on bud is just immature flowers. some have turned green already. pretty sure its not a hermie, im glad i didnt yank her!!!
It was pretty tough to tell in the picture so that is good to hear. Watch your iron levels and make sure your plant is getting a little, this will help keep new growth the proper color.
 

lovebud420

Active Member
I don't have pics right now I'm growing 3x bubba kush 2x blue cheese. Theyre all clones veggin in soil in my 4x4x6.5 tent under 400w mh. The blue cheese are looking perfect. Two of my bubbas however are having some kind of deficiency I think.. It almost looks like some kind of bug is eating pretty decent sized holes in my leaves.. however I know there are no bugs.. I just flushed this morning so we'll see. I'll put up pics later
 
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Hey snow thanks for the info on the carbon filter. I do have another question. I have been growing a new bag seed strain these are the four I just grew. Are the white tops indicating that they are males or is that just the strain that does this?? Im thinking all males because there is no white hairs after two weeks just one started growing balls ant the rest have these white growths ate the top of each budding site. I just need one male not 4 hoping tomorrow I will see some hairs on at least one of them but just need you opinion on the sex....
 

roc Eazy

Member
ok so.. im kind of lost now... i changed the water... ran some water thru the rockwool... i adjusted the ph... had the ec PERFECT (so i thought; 2.0 bcuz my baby is about a month). nutes, i use flora nova 7-4-10.. i honestly got rid of the older one because it gettin an better... and with hydro u see pretty fast results ofcourse.. now im deaing with one... no spots really.. SOME brown and the Stems are def brown.. but it doesnt look too far gone so im just here begging for help.. do i clean the resv wit peroxide ..i do use have cal mag.. im using a ten gallon resv tank.. my light its about 3ft high.. i have a fan blowing cool air in... the temp range btwn on and off isnt too great... bout 6degress (could this be a problems). as u can see im confused.. i can babble able this for days yo.. some pics. ANYONE HELP!!!
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eyezla

Active Member
I also Need some help!!! here is my issue, it isn't totally easy to see in my pics, I did the best I could, but on some buds from my harvest, I noticed a few white specs on the HAIRS, not so much on the buds. I only noticed them sporadically here and there, very subtle,and at 1st i thought it coulda been tiny pieces of perlite that got kicked up by the fan, and stuck in the sticky bud. Many buds were clean, but I set aside one that was the most prominent to take a few pics of, with the hope that someone would know what it is. So the bud in these shots is the worst one on the whole plant. Oh ya, also, this was 1 of 4 plants, but no others had these specs, (if that helps for diagnosing).

WHAT ARE THESE SPECS!? are they dangerous? Should I trash this crop?

The specs are hard to see, look in the most foreground part of the bud, some on top too, but i tried to get the spots most "centered" in the shot
 

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growinhound

Member
i need help? that is the question, no really .I dont know how to ,or better to say is:" what liquid do i,. put on that little sponge in the cap of my ec/ph probe? anyone
 

growinhound

Member
excuse me , hello every one and hope the sun is shinin in your area today. i should intro my self and not b rude eh. i should have said that FIRST
 
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