White Spots on New and Old Leaves but No Sign of Damage

Here is a picture of my plant's leaf and it has white spots. these have come pretty much in 24 hours and dont know why. i recently game them a very small amount of biobizz grow nutes. about 1-2ml mixed with 1L of water. any ideas?

looks like spidermite damage.. check under your leaves and see if you can any pin head sized pests moving around... like small red or black dots moving around?? or little white dots under the leaves which are eggs???

again check under the leaves and tell me what you see.. not the tops..

nope nothing at all under any leaves. the marks dont brush off and i can see the markes slightly on the leaf from the bottom so im ruling out mold etc. im really hoping this may be nute damage or something. i have three plants growing and this is the only plant which is showing the white dots and it is only on a few of the top leaves. very strange :S

hmmm... well it doesnt look like typical nute damage... i could be wrong as ive not personally witnessed every type of nute burn/def to know the physical effects to the plant... but typically the signs you see are spidermite damage.. the white spots are where those little bastards suck the juices from your plant... they live under the leaves... not the tops... but you said there are no little guys moving under your leaves... you checked the infected leaves right?? underside of the leaves... no tiny black or red dots moving around.. and i mean tiny... or little white dots.. even smaller than the afformentioned black/red dots?? im just making sure you dont have mites... they are really hard to control once they get a hold in your garden... just tryin to save you grief and work...

are sure about that..i thought white spots are generally from over fertilizing..that's been my experience anyway..

here are the 3 options i can come up with...

1) spidermites.. most likely the cause... hard to see if you havent had them or if the infestation just started because they are so small... look for more leaves with little white spots, black/red/white pin head sized dots under your leaves moving around, even smaller white spots under the leaves which are eggs, or even small webs anywhere on your plant to confirm this...

solution if you have them..

get some pure neem oil and make a spray... spray your plant, tops and bottoms of leaves, very very well... repeat every 3 days for 2 weeks... neem isnt a spot killer... it basically fucks the mites hormones up once they injest it so they dont reach maturity and reproduce... it does suffocate the eggs.. but its hard to spray every egg.. repeating every 3 days with the spray will ensure you get the entire population.. you can also add neem oil to your water/nutes and root feed it.. it will deter the pests because of the taste and affect them the same way as they eat it... continue to spray your plants once a week up to 4 weeks into flowering and you shouldnt have a problem... if this doesnt work get some no pest strips.. i prefer natural (neem oil) over chemical (no pest strips) but thats me... the neem oil is more a control/prevention method while the no pest strips/foggers/avid/floramite/ect are imidiate solutions.. your call...

the second option(s) are mildews... much less likely... your pic doesnt look like it.. but i figure ill touch all bases i can so you have a few options...

downy mildew appears as whiteish yellow spots creating pale patches on your leaves.. greyish mycelium spawn is under the leave opposite of the pale patch... its affects the plant inside out and usually is fatal... if this what it is use something called "Apply Serenade" to fight it.. active ingredient is "bacillus subtilis"... again the signs dont point to this though..

another (unlikely) cause could be

powerdery mildew - starts as small spots on the surface of the leave...spots progress into a fine, pale, gray-white powerdery coating, affecting all parts of the plant; stem, leaves, shoots... this actually affects plants weeks before it show... growth slows, leaves yellow and plants die... bordeaux sprays can help keep it in check.. saturating in a baking soda spray leaves a fine powder of baking soda on the leaf surface, changing the ph of the leaf, which the mildew cant grow on..


those are all the diagonises i can think of.. the last two are far less likely, as i said, based on your pic... but at least you have a few ideas and symptoms to look for and ways to treat...


good luck with your girls!!... ++rep would be cool too..

i was just saying bcuz i have over feed b4 and it seems to bleach my leaves white..it's all good, just my observation..peace

again.. i dont know everything.. just saying what i do know within the realm of my knowledge.. most nute burn ive encountered affects the outter edge of the leaf... it starts bleaching, or drying up, or browning from the outside.. i personally havent encountered nute burn that shows as white bleach spots on the leaves.. but im not god and by no means do i think i have been through it all with growing... i was stating my best diagnosis... what kind of nutes were you using where you got white spots?? veg/flower?? im always open to learn something new...

it was actually along time ago when i first started growing..i was using miraclle grow powder the blue stuff..i was in college..i have since went all organic now for about the last 10 yrs. or so..but in all honesty white bleaching is nute burn too.i've never had spider mites so i don't know what the damage looks like, so i can't comment on that..but that mg did bleach my leaves that got burnt..it could be too that it got on the leaves and burnt that way ..but it was from the mg..

thank you everyone. im really hoping it is over fert because i have repotted a few days ago doing a 70% john innes no 2 and 30% miracle grow. but the plants seem to be thriving in the new soil untill now. there is 100% nothing under the leaves and the dots do not have any powder substance on them. if anything changes i will post it but as of now i think all i can do is wait for any other symtoms to occur so i can fix the problem. also i have heard that neem oil itsnt harmful to the plant so using it just incase isnt a problem. does anyone knwo where i can get some of this? im from england btw

again thank you all. im currently in university and this is my first grow in a xl homebox indoor grow with a 600w hps light and fans.

p.s my max temps have reached about 94 f does anyone know how i can cool it? i have a huge fan blowing in there and also have an extractor fan with a carbon filter.

imho i would guess it had more to do with getting the nutes on the leaves when you watered than from the actual feeding of the nutes... i didnt think about nute splash being the cause of it.. so you could very well be right there.. but MG toxicity is fairly rare.. and is more common in hydro than soil... im not trying to dissprove you.. just statin my case.. backin up my info... lol anyways.. i dont know the concentration of biobizz but 2 ml/l of water doesnt seem strong enough to burn... i use technafloras BC line of nutes.. it calls for 14 ml/g which breaks down to 3.5 ml/l.. again i dont know anything about biobizz so my arguement could be completely weak.. but comparitively speaking he would be using almost a half strength solution of my nutes, so thats why i say what i say... anyone know anything about biobizz and its typical mixing ratio?

well shit.. reading that about the MG soil and shit... it could be nute burn... would have changed a lot if i woulda known that... lol my bad bakin...

dan.. you should flush your soil with 2x the amount of water as the size of the pot (ie. 3 gal pot use 6 gals water).. then just water with regular water a couple times.. see if that does that trick... then use a 1/4 strength nute solution when you start feeding again and see how they react..

you can purchase neem oil online.. just google it.. its easy to get ahold of and fairly cheap...

that's kinda what i figured too ..splashing on the leaves..i know nothing of bio-bizz..these days i use age old organics formulas..i've noticed you can feed them every watering with no ill effects..when i grew in hydro i used gh and went with lucas formula and never had abny issues..well you learn something new everyday..thanks for the info..peace

ok.. so you either need to get cooler air coming in or more of the hotter air going out... first solution is to run your exhaust fan on high 24/7 so it just continously pulls hot air out.. it would only drop maybe 5degrees F.. but it would be a start... but i assume you already do this?? if you can add an air intake to the homebox and pull cooler air in that would be my second suggestion... plus it would bring fresh air to the plants which is always a plus... thirdly you could try to upgrade your exhaust fan so it just pulls more air out quicker which would help... you could get a smaller light, as a last resort...

so

1) running a 24 hour exhaust is the easiest way to get rid of the heat.. not hugely affective in dropping the temp.. but the cheapest way and obvious first step... which i am sure youve done
2) bring cool air in.. this could cost some money in equipment.. but this is dependent on if you can modify those homeboxes and i dont know anything about them so it might not be an option..
3) upgrade the exhaust... again not hugely affective (as in a 20 degree drop affective) but is a good start.. again that is if it is opssible to do that with the homebox
4) get a smaller light... this is a last option... but it might be the only one... just depends on how user friendly the homebox is as far as adding/modifying it is..

those are the best options i can think of.. i dont think adding an ac unit to the homebox is an option lol or is it??

well there is a hole with a pull cord on top for an exhaust which i use my extractor fan on and one at the lower left hand side. there are also vents at each side and back at the base of the tent which have optional covers (i keep the vents open). i dont actually take any hot ait out to be honest as i dont need the carbon filter yet as there is no smell im using it to blow air from my room straight onto the light. there is plenty of room in the tent. usually put about a max of 14-16 plant in. its 1.2mx1.2mx2m so quite big. must asmit it looks silly with my three plants but im a uni student and if i get caught with any mroe i will get done for intention to sell. lol

ok so i will invest in neem oil

i have thought about an ait con before but they have seemed to be quite expencive. there was these cooler thing i see on the internet which people use to place on their pc's cpu and it cools them and can often get to cold they can present ice. i was thinking of buying one and placing it befind the fan co cold air is being blown like a home grown air con. lol

as to the problem i fed my plants all with the same amount of nutes etc but only one plant is presenting these problems which is strange.

but i think im going to use the exhause to start to suck air from the tent now

thank u all

yea... run the exhaust for sure... if you arent running it at all then youll see a huge huge difference... keep the vents open to let the tent bring in fresh air... and i really think you wont need an ac or anything else to assist in the cooling!! those tents sound pretty nice... and ive never see a xmas tree looking plant that looked silly... im a fewer but bigger plant guy... anyways... good luck with school and your girls!

thank u very much simpsonsampson. i will keep this thread updated when my babies get better. also the plant in question is about 20 inches but the other 2 are about 10 inches. when shall i flower? as i really dont want to flower the big one before the other two as i only have 1 tent. is it ok to keep my big girl in veg untill the other two have grown up a bit?

yea.. you can veg as long as you want... during flowering your plants will get about twice as big tho... and a 600w hps will penetrate about 2 feet into the plant well.. so use that as kinda a basis for when to start... with a 3 foot tall plant the top 2/3s will be nice large buds and the bottom 1/3 will have smaller popcorn buds... you could probably starting flowering when the tallest reaches 2 ft and get a really good yield off of them all.. that would just about maximize the height of your tent as well.. just know the top 2ft will have the best buds and they will progressively get smaller whatever you do... my 2 cents worth, and what i personally do, is flower when the plants are about 4 weeks old.. by 4 weeks they have reached maturity and will maximize their yielding potential... usually my plants are between 12-18 inches by then.. so i get 2-3 foot plants when done flowering... but you could go bigger as your light penetrates better than mine do... but as i said.. its up to you and what you want to do in the end

well i was thinking of getting much smaller lights to place near the bottoms to get a better yield. what lights do you suggest which will not generage any more heat!