White Lil Bugs Only in My 1000w Hood Glass Not On Plants At All!! help Plz +repp

So i fucken noticed i had lil white lookin ugly fuckers in my light dead from the heat on the light!!! was wondering what do these lil fuckers do and what they are ? ive never seen any on plants or near my plants or even my soil ever!!!!! only in my hood!!! thanks +rep for answer soURbanDSMoker.

???anybody know??

Got pics? In the bugs section stickies is a good listing on the most common stuff u can compare too.

no pics there all white they dnt look like flys..

tried the stickys its none of those i dont think ive never seen any on my plants ONLY INSIDE MY HOOD!!!! WHAT THE FUCK ARE THEY ARE THEY MAKING THESE FUNGUS NATS!? HAAHH

if its white and fly around its most likely a whitefly, they do damage so check your plants.i had some on my plants just get yellow sticky traps they work good

Wht kind of damage neer seen one on my plnts ever only on the light glass!wht damage do they do?

How are your hoods set up? Are you bringing in ourside air without a filter into the hoods?

No I don't have a exhaust its just the air in my tent i let air in my opening it a few times a day.

we cant tell you what they are without pics. my guess is white fly only because you said they are white

sorry for late reply thanks ismoke....ya it might be those but wtf I saw maybe one or two on my first grow on the hood glass to but never did SHIT to my bud ..

there all dead by the way what do they do ?

where the fuck they comin from?

yellow stickies are the best. I have 4 hanging in my room. Watch out for those thrips though, those bastards are sneaky.

No they never go on my plant only in my light

Im sure they are on your plants. why else would they be there rite?If the only thing for them to eat are your plants then that is what they are doing.look on the under sides of the leafs.hope this helps.[h=3]Whitefly damage by feeding[/h]Whiteflies feed by tapping into the phloem of plants, introducing toxic saliva and decreasing the plants' overall turgor pressure. Since whiteflies congregate in large numbers, susceptible plants can be quickly overwhelmed. Further harm is done by mold growth encouraged by the honeydew whiteflies secrete. This may also seriously impede the ability of farms to process cotton harvests.
Whiteflies share modified form of hemimetabolous metamorphosis, in that the immature stages begin life as mobile individuals, but soon attach to a host plant. The stage before the adult is called a pupa, though it shares little in common with the pupal stage of holometabolousinsects.Whitefly control is difficult and complex as whiteflies rapidly gain resistance to chemicalpesticides. The USDA recommends "an integrated program that focuses on prevention and relies on cultural and biological control methods when possible."[SUP][3][/SUP] While an initial pesticide application may be necessary to control heavy infestations, repeated applications may lead to strains of whiteflies that are resistant to pesticides,[SUP][4][/SUP] so only use of selective insecticides is advised. Specific insecticide information and guidance for the fig whitefly is available from the University of Florida, Davie.[SUP][5][/SUP] Care should be taken to ensure that the insecticide used will not kill the natural predators of whitefly. For effective use of biological method after application of pesticide, plant washing is advised prior to release of predators or parasitoids.
Pesticides used for whiteflies control are neonicotinoids. Products containing neonicotinoid compounds have one of these four active ingredients: clothianidin (commercial), dinotefuran (over the counter and commercial), imidacloprid (over the counter and commercial) and thiamethoxam(commercial). Neocotinoids can be harmful if ingested.[SUP][6][/SUP] Neocotinoids are also extremely toxic to bees which are essential to the pollination of flowering plants, and are seen as probably one of the causes behind the dramatic decrease in their numbers.[SUP][7][/SUP] Rotation of insecticides from different families may be effective at preventing the building of tolerance to the product. Clothianidin and Dinotefuran are of the same family.

Biological methods have also been proposed to control whitefly infestation, and may be paired with chemical methods. Washing the plant, especially the underneath of leaves may help reduce the number of the pests on the plants and make their management by other methods more effective. Spraying the leaves using Safer-Soap following manufacturer instructions is one option.[SUP][8][/SUP] Whiteflies are also attracted by the color yellow so yellow sticky paper can serve as traps to monitor infestations.[SUP][9][/SUP] Dead leaves or leaves that have been mostly eaten by whiteflies can be removed and burned or carefully placed in closed bins to avoid reinfestation and spreading of the disease.

Early detection in combination with hosing or vacuuming of diseased portions as well as removal of any section that is heavily infested. Pesticide use is not ideal in the case of controlling whitefly and widespread contamination can be costly; it is best to avoid this problem with aggressive preventive measures.
Several predators and parasitoids may be effective in controlling whitefly infestations. These predators include green lacewings, ladybirds,minute pirate bugs, big eyed bugs, and damsel bugs.[SUP][8][/SUP]

Integrated management of whitefly can as well be done using Biopesticides based on microbials such Beauveria bassiana (effective on nymphs and adults) or Paecilomyces fumosoroseus.
Green lacewing larvae have a voracious appetite. They will attack whiteflies as well as other pests including aphids, mealybugs, spider mites,leafhopper nymphs, moth eggs, scales and thrips. They also can attack other insects including caterpillars. They are available in the form of eggs from commercial insectaries and will stay in a larval stage after they hatch for one to three weeks. The adult insects can fly and will feed only on pollen, honey and nectar to reproduce. Repeated application may be necessary and the eggs could be eaten before they hatch by their natural predators, such as ants or mature green lacewings.

Ladybirds are also used. They eat mostly insect eggs, but will also feed on beetle larvae, aphids, scale insects and young caterpillars. Adults are often collected when in a dormant state in the wild and shipped for use in pest control, however, they may not stay in the location where they are released. They do live for about a year and will continuously lay eggs and reproduce. Spraying the bug's wings with a sticky substance before release may hinder their ability to fly.
Another natural way of dealing with whitefly is to grow Nasturtium (anti-feedant) close to i.e. goosberries or tomatoes. It will prowide root chemicals that deter whitefly[SUP][10][/SUP].

ismokealotofpot said:

Im sure they are on your plants. why else would they be there rite?If the only thing for them to eat are your plants then that is what they are doing.look on the under sides of the leafs.hope this helps.Whitefly damage by feeding

Whiteflies feed by tapping into the phloem of plants, introducing toxic saliva and decreasing the plants' overall turgor pressure. Since whiteflies congregate in large numbers, susceptible plants can be quickly overwhelmed. Further harm is done by mold growth encouraged by the honeydew whiteflies secrete. This may also seriously impede the ability of farms to process cotton harvests.
Whiteflies share modified form of hemimetabolous metamorphosis, in that the immature stages begin life as mobile individuals, but soon attach to a host plant. The stage before the adult is called a pupa, though it shares little in common with the pupal stage of holometabolousinsects.Whitefly control is difficult and complex as whiteflies rapidly gain resistance to chemicalpesticides. The USDA recommends "an integrated program that focuses on prevention and relies on cultural and biological control methods when possible."[SUP][3][/SUP] While an initial pesticide application may be necessary to control heavy infestations, repeated applications may lead to strains of whiteflies that are resistant to pesticides,[SUP][4][/SUP] so only use of selective insecticides is advised. Specific insecticide information and guidance for the fig whitefly is available from the University of Florida, Davie.[SUP][5][/SUP] Care should be taken to ensure that the insecticide used will not kill the natural predators of whitefly. For effective use of biological method after application of pesticide, plant washing is advised prior to release of predators or parasitoids.
Pesticides used for whiteflies control are neonicotinoids. Products containing neonicotinoid compounds have one of these four active ingredients: clothianidin (commercial), dinotefuran (over the counter and commercial), imidacloprid (over the counter and commercial) and thiamethoxam(commercial). Neocotinoids can be harmful if ingested.[SUP][6][/SUP] Neocotinoids are also extremely toxic to bees which are essential to the pollination of flowering plants, and are seen as probably one of the causes behind the dramatic decrease in their numbers.[SUP][7][/SUP] Rotation of insecticides from different families may be effective at preventing the building of tolerance to the product. Clothianidin and Dinotefuran are of the same family.

Biological methods have also been proposed to control whitefly infestation, and may be paired with chemical methods. Washing the plant, especially the underneath of leaves may help reduce the number of the pests on the plants and make their management by other methods more effective. Spraying the leaves using Safer-Soap following manufacturer instructions is one option.[SUP][8][/SUP] Whiteflies are also attracted by the color yellow so yellow sticky paper can serve as traps to monitor infestations.[SUP][9][/SUP] Dead leaves or leaves that have been mostly eaten by whiteflies can be removed and burned or carefully placed in closed bins to avoid reinfestation and spreading of the disease.

Early detection in combination with hosing or vacuuming of diseased portions as well as removal of any section that is heavily infested. Pesticide use is not ideal in the case of controlling whitefly and widespread contamination can be costly; it is best to avoid this problem with aggressive preventive measures.
Several predators and parasitoids may be effective in controlling whitefly infestations. These predators include green lacewings, ladybirds,minute pirate bugs, big eyed bugs, and damsel bugs.[SUP][8][/SUP]

Integrated management of whitefly can as well be done using Biopesticides based on microbials such Beauveria bassiana (effective on nymphs and adults) or Paecilomyces fumosoroseus.
Green lacewing larvae have a voracious appetite. They will attack whiteflies as well as other pests including aphids, mealybugs, spider mites,leafhopper nymphs, moth eggs, scales and thrips. They also can attack other insects including caterpillars. They are available in the form of eggs from commercial insectaries and will stay in a larval stage after they hatch for one to three weeks. The adult insects can fly and will feed only on pollen, honey and nectar to reproduce. Repeated application may be necessary and the eggs could be eaten before they hatch by their natural predators, such as ants or mature green lacewings.

Ladybirds are also used. They eat mostly insect eggs, but will also feed on beetle larvae, aphids, scale insects and young caterpillars. Adults are often collected when in a dormant state in the wild and shipped for use in pest control, however, they may not stay in the location where they are released. They do live for about a year and will continuously lay eggs and reproduce. Spraying the bug's wings with a sticky substance before release may hinder their ability to fly.
Another natural way of dealing with whitefly is to grow Nasturtium (anti-feedant) close to i.e. goosberries or tomatoes. It will prowide root chemicals that deter whitefly[SUP][10][/SUP].

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NO THERE FUCKEN NOT I CHECK EVERY LEAF FOR LIKE 5 MINUTES EACH I HAVENT HAD ONE WHITE FLY ON MY PLANTS!!!!!!!
IF THEY ARE WHITE FLYS THEY hAVE ONLY BEEN IN MY HOOD!!!! THIS IS MY 2ND GROW TO NEVER SEEN ONEE!!!!!! ON MY PLANT!!!!

ok then they must be there to eat your hood then.. sorry I refuse to help assholes on this site.maybe someone else will help you good luck

NNaw all good man thanks for I'm just tryna say there not on my plant I said it 4 times lol and ur saying they r? What r these things th? Anyone else got them just in there hood?