Which tent to buy

YerpGodMarley

YerpGodMarley

Well-Known Member
thinking of getting a 400w hps cool hood & tent to start a setup.
growing only for personal use

which tent would be better for the 400w cool hood??

48x24x60 ( 4x2x5 ft )
32x32x63 ( 2.6x2.6x5.25 ft )

or should i just get a 600w for one of those tents.

plan on getting this fan filter combo for the cool hood
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051HDECS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

are 600w much hotter?

the tents goin to be going in a storage closet thats like 12x3.5x7.5 ft
 
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justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
YerpGodMarley said:
thinking of getting a 400w hps cool hood & tent to start a setup.
growing only for personal use

which tent would be better for the 400w cool hood??

48x24x60 ( 4x2x5 ft )
32x32x63 ( 2.6x2.6x5.25 ft )

or should i just get a 600w for one of those tents.

plan on getting this fan filter combo for the cool hood
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051HDECS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

are 600w much hotter?

the tents goin to be going in a storage closet thats like 12x3.5x7.5 ft
Click to expand...
do not buy a cheap tent ......i have had 6 tents total i only have 3 now the other 3 failed they were the cheap ones
Secret Jardin .....oldest ranked 2nd (ones i still have )
Gorilla tents ......newer ranked 1st due to weight ability

400w u want a 3x3x5or6 tent .......my tent dr90
http://www.amazon.com/Secret-Jardin-Darkroom-Pro-DR90/dp/B004NGKWWI/

600w u want 4x4x6 tent ........dr120
http://www.amazon.com/Secret-DarkRoom-II-Pro-120/dp/B0029AHQKG

here is the makers info ......i owe both they have worked now flawlessly for 4 years on dr120 2 years on dr90
http://www.secretjardin.com/us/grow-tent-secret-jardin/dark-room-ii-grow-tent-secret-jardin.html
quick help for later the number part is the cubic feet for that tent .....dr90 is 90 cubic feet dr120 is 120 cubic feet

your limited on size so a dr90 and 400w ........it might be better to just make the closet a tent (use a piece of polywrap seal the whole thing up ) just make sure the walls are flat white paint.....going to need holes in the ceiling to run ducting to a dumping point hole in door to act as intake (passive intake u need 2 times the ducting size so 12x12 hole ) with it being solid concaving will not be a issue

the fan size your going to be ok but the speed of the fan is strong ......i mean really strong like once every 20 secs it cycles the air in dr120 even more on the dr 90 .......your tent will concave under the negative pressure it causes.....u lose a little space from the walls getting sucked in like that to counter it u need to do a powered intake ........u can build a filter box and use a booster fan to power the intake booster fan is about 240 at 6 inches so the fan will still maintain negative pressure
 
MickFoster

MickFoster

Well-Known Member
I bought 2 Mars Hydro tents and I find them to be well made and very affordable compared to some of the prices out there.
 
noysy

noysy

Well-Known Member
Whatever you do. Dont go for the cheapest you see, you want a metal frame,good zippers,good reflective material.

I run this brand, which is german made and cant fault the build quality
 
Cobnobuler

Cobnobuler

Well-Known Member
Before you do it....rethink it a minute and ask yourself if you can pull off what you want to do without a tent. I had 3 of 'em and now I'm down to just one that I use just for veggin the first month.
They're ok but they're also heat trapping pains in the asses they are.
 
TJ baba

TJ baba

Well-Known Member
Just ugh is spot on about the negative pressure, you will probably want another fan for intake however you could probably get away with a cheaper intake fan if u needed it but killer set up you are on the right track for sure
And cobnobuler is right about heat issues with that size.
 
Medizzinman

Medizzinman

Active Member
Dont skimp buy a real gorilla tent! Mine continues to serve me well years after purchase. Get the standard gorilla not the gorilla "lite" line. Totally worth my $250 shipped.
 
mr sunshine

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
justugh said:
do not buy a cheap tent ......i have had 6 tents total i only have 3 now the other 3 failed they were the cheap ones
Secret Jardin .....oldest ranked 2nd (ones i still have )
Gorilla tents ......newer ranked 1st due to weight ability

400w u want a 3x3x5or6 tent .......my tent dr90
http://www.amazon.com/Secret-Jardin-Darkroom-Pro-DR90/dp/B004NGKWWI/

600w u want 4x4x6 tent ........dr120
http://www.amazon.com/Secret-DarkRoom-II-Pro-120/dp/B0029AHQKG

here is the makers info ......i owe both they have worked now flawlessly for 4 years on dr120 2 years on dr90
http://www.secretjardin.com/us/grow-tent-secret-jardin/dark-room-ii-grow-tent-secret-jardin.html
quick help for later the number part is the cubic feet for that tent .....dr90 is 90 cubic feet dr120 is 120 cubic feet

your limited on size so a dr90 and 400w ........it might be better to just make the closet a tent (use a piece of polywrap seal the whole thing up ) just make sure the walls are flat white paint.....going to need holes in the ceiling to run ducting to a dumping point hole in door to act as intake (passive intake u need 2 times the ducting size so 12x12 hole ) with it being solid concaving will not be a issue

the fan size your going to be ok but the speed of the fan is strong ......i mean really strong like once every 20 secs it cycles the air in dr120 even more on the dr 90 .......your tent will concave under the negative pressure it causes.....u lose a little space from the walls getting sucked in like that to counter it u need to do a powered intake ........u can build a filter box and use a booster fan to power the intake booster fan is about 240 at 6 inches so the fan will still maintain negative pressure
Click to expand...
You can just line the walls with long 2x4s vertically threw the inside of the tent that way the walls don't cave. And you don't spend extra cash on running another fan.
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
mr sunshine said:
You can just line the walls with long 2x4s vertically threw the inside of the tent that way the walls don't cave. And you don't spend extra cash on running another fan.
Click to expand...
but then u lose part of the reflective power

those 2 tents i wrote about do more then just put of a reflective walls ......they each have a unique pattern pressed into the shape of the reflective material on the wall altering the refraction patterns of the light (best reuse of light on the market other then mirror type like the old grow a trons)

putting up bracers like that will change what it does .......the trouble is from the high output fan a 440 cfm in a 120 cf room .....the 2 passive ports on the side are not enough to keep the tent from concaving like a modern art expo .....running a HPS in a cool tube in that area needs to have 1 of 2 things 1 high output fan or 2 a low intake temp

600w a 440 fan pulling tho a carbon filter with intakes in the low 60s high 50s will work on low or medium exhaust and the concave is not that big but if the temps get in the upper 60s low 70s u need that high to replace the air more often to control the IR heat build up to keep the plants under 80 in the bud zones.........your looking at a 10 to 12 degree different with a 600w in a 4x4x on a 440 cfm with carbon on a cooltube using a HPS (70% ir heat from the bulb compared to MH 40% )

i understand what u are saying ....but if going to spend the money on the tent might as well get the full use off .....u can do it with metal fittings but it is easier just to make the powered intake ......it increases the Co2 and lowers the temp diff to about 8 degrees (plus if u are in a guy house or heavier smoker house u want that air to be clean going to the plants so they do the best they can )
 
mr sunshine

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
justugh said:
but then u lose part of the reflective power

those 2 tents i wrote about do more then just put of a reflective walls ......they each have a unique pattern pressed into the shape of the reflective material on the wall altering the refraction patterns of the light (best reuse of light on the market other then mirror type like the old grow a trons)

putting up bracers like that will change what it does .......the trouble is from the high output fan a 440 cfm in a 120 cf room .....the 2 passive ports on the side are not enough to keep the tent from concaving like a modern art expo .....running a HPS in a cool tube in that area needs to have 1 of 2 things 1 high output fan or 2 a low intake temp

600w a 440 fan pulling tho a carbon filter with intakes in the low 60s high 50s will work on low or medium exhaust and the concave is not that big but if the temps get in the upper 60s low 70s u need that high to replace the air more often to control the IR heat build up to keep the plants under 80 in the bud zones.........your looking at a 10 to 12 degree different with a 600w in a 4x4x on a 440 cfm with carbon on a cooltube using a HPS (70% ir heat from the bulb compared to MH 40% )

i understand what u are saying ....but if going to spend the money on the tent might as well get the full use off .....u can do it with metal fittings but it is easier just to make the powered intake ......it increases the Co2 and lowers the temp diff to about 8 degrees (plus if u are in a guy house or heavier smoker house u want that air to be clean going to the plants so they do the best they can )
Click to expand...
if paint the 2x4s white you won't lose anything . And you'll save cash.
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
mr sunshine said:
if paint the 2x4s white you won't lose anything . And you'll save cash.
Click to expand...
light reflective list worst to best
black
any color not white
flat white paint
reflective wall
reflective wall with a pattern
mirror

i know what u are saying 2x4 are not the best choice it would be electrical conduit .......get a t fitting that is bigger then the poles for the tent get a piece for a crossbar and use those heavy duty paper clips (the ones like little vice grips) to keep the t from moving on the tent pole......... wrap the conduit with metal duct work tape

but u are not accounting for the fact the powered intake offers u a higher Co2 lvl (the passive intake ports are covered and u are intake from a lower point then original intakes and it is pumping in more volume then it could passively pull in ) and then u got the 4 degree temp drop from having the cooler air coming in at a faster rate
 
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mr sunshine

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
justugh said:
light reflective list worst to best
black
any color not white
flat white paint
reflective wall
reflective wall with a pattern
mirror

i know what u are saying 2x4 are not the best choice it would be electrical conduit .......get a t fitting that is bigger poles for the side of then tent get a piece for a crossbar and use those heavy duty paper clips (the ones like little vice grips) to keep the t from moving on the tent pole......... wrap the conduit with metal duct work tape

but u are not accounting for the fact the powered intake offers u a higher Co2 lvl (the passive intake ports are covered and u are intake from a lower point then original intakes and it is pumping in more volume then i could passively pull in ) and then u got the 4 degree temp drop from having the cooler air coming in at a faster rate
Click to expand...
If you have a fresh air source like an open window it would be the same amount of co2..pumping in more air doesn't mean mor co2 it just means more air..it's true that plants can use more co2 then fresh air has to offer but pumping in more of the same air doesn't give you more co2. I'm not sure if this makes sense to you. The only way to get more co2 in a room with fresh air is to seal it and add a tank..
 
CanBud

CanBud

Well-Known Member
Quictent makes decent tents for the money, I have one and like it. Only thing I would have done different is made sure the concrete was free of debris as I have cut the floor moving pots around. Not a big deal and they're reasonable in price/quality, although as usual there's probably better available for more money.
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
mr sunshine said:
If you have a fresh air source like an open window it would be the same amount of co2..pumping in more air doesn't mean mor co2 it just means more air..it's true that plants can use more co2 then fresh air has to offer but pumping in more of the same air doesn't give you more co2. I'm not sure if this makes sense to you. The only way to get more co2 in a room with fresh air is to seal it and add a tank..
Click to expand...
no one in there right mind would be pulling outside air in (unless they want to see a bulb go boom or live in a area the humidity never goes above 30%) ........i am talking about house air

ACed/Heated house air ......indoor air is always higher then outdoor .....my house runs 650ppm to 700ppm with 2 ppl here ( u can not get anymore country then me with a shit pit less then 1/4 mile from front door and farms on all sides with protected wetlands part of it )
 
mr sunshine

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
justugh said:
no one in there right mind would be pulling outside air in (unless they want to see a bulb go boom or live in a area the humidity never goes above 30%) ........i am talking about house air

ACed/Heated house air ......indoor air is always higher then outdoor .....my house runs 650ppm to 700ppm with 2 ppl here ( u can not get anymore country then me with a shit pit less then 1/4 mile from front door and farms on all sides with protected wetlands part of it )
Click to expand...
Everyone I know pulls air from outside.. unless they have a sealed room connected to a lung room. Cracking a window is pulling air from the outside. Where do you get fresh air from? I'm confused. And also how will pumping in stale air with depleted co2 levels increase co2 in your tent. It doesn't just keep adding up. The air holds the amount of co2 that it has. Pumping in more of that same air won't give it more co2.. because it's not a math problem it doesn't keep adding to the co2 levels. It has what it has. Passive intake is doing the same thing but for free.
 
mr sunshine

mr sunshine

Well-Known Member
When I said line the walls with 2x4s I didn't mean everywhere. .3 2x4s is all you need just put one in between each poll..you can do it right in the middle or from corner to corner diagonally. I wouldn't put one in front of the zipper that will get in the way.
 
justugh

justugh

Well-Known Member
mr sunshine said:
Everyone I know pulls air from outside.. unless they have a sealed room connected to a lung room. Cracking a window is pulling air from the outside. Where do you get fresh air from? I'm confused. And also how will pumping in stale air with depleted co2 levels increase co2 in your tent. It doesn't just keep adding up. The air holds the amount of co2 that it has. Pumping in more of that same air won't give it more co2.. because it's not a math problem it doesn't keep adding to the co2 levels. It has what it has. Passive intake is doing the same thing but for free.
Click to expand...

i am sorry i keep forgetting ppl are not like me i think way to much and rem even more
the human body uses up 8% of the oxygen per breath when we exhale we are creating CO2 a form that plants like .....(not the waste co2 that the plants make when lights are off but the good Co2 that the plants can use for power)

Co2 is a heavier gas it pools up in oxygen and nitrogen .....oil and water (oil being the oxygen and water being Co2 )
ok the tent is not a perfectly sealed area .....but it is sealed enough with negative pressure allowing cool Co2 to pool up in a larger amount then the outside (the Co2 will say low and pool until converted or IR heat is transferred causing thermal exchange (hot gases raise) ..........that is the Fresh air the Fresh Co2 that is drawn in for the plant to use

as for the house it self yes dumping that much air outside changed the air exchange in your house it no longer static ......the outside air comes in all paths open to it (ac/heat vents cracks in the door crack in the window cracks in the framing of the house the attic vents on the side of the house ) travles the path of least energy to find balance in the pressure change u are causing

but still that air is under going treatment ........we are breathing it altering the mix of gases in the house
as i said before i have a 440 cfm i live in a split lvl house with 2 ppl only ......i have a ppm set for the alt i am at i know what PPM i am getting naturally (i am midway up a valley i know the guy at the bottom gets better then me )
 
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