charface
Well-Known Member
The real question is should defoliations dudes flush and when and with what?
When to start flushing?
- Thread starter nrc.nerdzo
- Start date
The real question is should defoliations dudes flush and when and with what?
danky supreme
Well-Known Member
The arrogance on this site is unbelievable. Don't get me wrong I have learned some amazing things but you gotta dig through a lot of dirt to find a diamond.
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
Maybe you should educate yourself first....
I use the "worst" nutes you can buy,
but I know how nutes effect the plant and burn qualities so I only look at types of nutes and ratios.no crackling here and black ash is a bad cure
When wood is heated anaerobically, it turns black as the water is driven off, leaving charcoal, or carbon, behind. When charcoal burns in air, the carbon combines with oxygen, producing carbon dioxide gas. But if you have ever used a charcoal grill,you will noticed that charcoal turns white as it burns. This white ash is what remains of the non-flammable minerals which were present in the wood to begin with. You don't really notice them until the carbon has burned away. These ashes have a composition which varies according to the kind of wood and the soil in which it grew, and it is this variable composition which marks ash as a mixture rather than apure substance.
Ash is literally the nutes
that anaerobic burning is what causes butane lighters to produce soot or that black stuff if you put the flame under something, propane burns wonderfully clean but as you add carbon it needs more oxygen, as you go up it won't burn properly unless you add an oxidizer.. this is also why BIC lighters are only about 500 degrees instead of 3500 or whatever butane likes to burn at..(bics design limits oxygen,if you have a torch for dabbing with an adjuster you know what I'm talking about)
...flushing is debated alot around here but its proven that it doesn't lower nutes in your bud. Just forms an abscission layer(Google it)..
The white ash is literally the nutes and nutes are actually good and improve the burn qualities,yes my ash burns to white..potassium for example expands when hot and helps it burn much more efficiently.. calcium adds weight and mass to the ash while making it whiter but too much makes it flakey.. sulphur ,ammonical n and chlorinated nutes negatively impact burn qualities etc etc I mean the tobacco industry laid it all out for us already, we just have to modify how we cure as we are dealing with volatile compounds and understanding what we are after isn't anitrate but phosphate(terpenes come from phosphates). No other crop is flushed including tobacco so that you get the best burn, yield and quality..the cure is very important But fresh herb barely dry enough to smoke with no cure doesn't crackle much except for the moisture and resin but leaves it black Flushing is counterproductive imo and only serves to foxtail my landrace Sativas
the cure is important and the fowl taste associated with not flushing is simply a poor cure..a harsh hot acrid taste is from burning starches and chlorophyll....also associated with newbs overfeeding making the cure that much harder..keeping the plant moist enough to stay alive and still maintain gas transfer..through this natural process of hydrolysis and respiration the components are broken down and becomes smooth..this process is known as the cure
Night and day difference in curing ..
Reduction in Chlorophyll content, doesn't taste like smoking veggies
Reduction in plant starch content,and sugars, creating a smooth smoke that will just expand nicely in your lungs, won't even feel it go down
Reduction in nitrate levels,less carcinogenic, always good right and cleaner tasting/cleaner feeling high
polycyclic aromatization and oxidation of terpenoids altering the flavor profile more robust with a higher ppm sensory threshold , less perfumey even soapy or "green" from corresponding aldehydes and ketones
Reduction of and consistent moisture content, even slow burn and no smoldering or black ash unwilling to burn
Just listen to how many tell you not to flush!..understand that I've been growing for over a decade
I use the "worst" nutes you can buy,
but I know how nutes effect the plant and burn qualities so I only look at types of nutes and ratios.no crackling here and black ash is a bad cure
When wood is heated anaerobically, it turns black as the water is driven off, leaving charcoal, or carbon, behind. When charcoal burns in air, the carbon combines with oxygen, producing carbon dioxide gas. But if you have ever used a charcoal grill,you will noticed that charcoal turns white as it burns. This white ash is what remains of the non-flammable minerals which were present in the wood to begin with. You don't really notice them until the carbon has burned away. These ashes have a composition which varies according to the kind of wood and the soil in which it grew, and it is this variable composition which marks ash as a mixture rather than apure substance.
Ash is literally the nutes
that anaerobic burning is what causes butane lighters to produce soot or that black stuff if you put the flame under something, propane burns wonderfully clean but as you add carbon it needs more oxygen, as you go up it won't burn properly unless you add an oxidizer.. this is also why BIC lighters are only about 500 degrees instead of 3500 or whatever butane likes to burn at..(bics design limits oxygen,if you have a torch for dabbing with an adjuster you know what I'm talking about)
...flushing is debated alot around here but its proven that it doesn't lower nutes in your bud. Just forms an abscission layer(Google it)..
The white ash is literally the nutes and nutes are actually good and improve the burn qualities,yes my ash burns to white..potassium for example expands when hot and helps it burn much more efficiently.. calcium adds weight and mass to the ash while making it whiter but too much makes it flakey.. sulphur ,ammonical n and chlorinated nutes negatively impact burn qualities etc etc I mean the tobacco industry laid it all out for us already, we just have to modify how we cure as we are dealing with volatile compounds and understanding what we are after isn't anitrate but phosphate(terpenes come from phosphates). No other crop is flushed including tobacco so that you get the best burn, yield and quality..the cure is very important But fresh herb barely dry enough to smoke with no cure doesn't crackle much except for the moisture and resin but leaves it black Flushing is counterproductive imo and only serves to foxtail my landrace Sativas
the cure is important and the fowl taste associated with not flushing is simply a poor cure..a harsh hot acrid taste is from burning starches and chlorophyll....also associated with newbs overfeeding making the cure that much harder..keeping the plant moist enough to stay alive and still maintain gas transfer..through this natural process of hydrolysis and respiration the components are broken down and becomes smooth..this process is known as the cure
Night and day difference in curing ..
Reduction in Chlorophyll content, doesn't taste like smoking veggies
Reduction in plant starch content,and sugars, creating a smooth smoke that will just expand nicely in your lungs, won't even feel it go down
Reduction in nitrate levels,less carcinogenic, always good right and cleaner tasting/cleaner feeling high
polycyclic aromatization and oxidation of terpenoids altering the flavor profile more robust with a higher ppm sensory threshold , less perfumey even soapy or "green" from corresponding aldehydes and ketones
Reduction of and consistent moisture content, even slow burn and no smoldering or black ash unwilling to burn
Just listen to how many tell you not to flush!..understand that I've been growing for over a decade
fivethirty
Member
Since you will be starving your plant of what it needs to finish its life cycle, I suggest you wait until most of the trics are cloudy before you wash away the essential nutrients. That way you wont be hurting yourself as much as if you washed them away say 2 weeks before harvest.
nrc.nerdzo
Member
very informative. By poor cure, what exactly do you mean? I thought the cure was pretty much the most fool proof part.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
fivethirty
Member
Cure is where a lot (and I mean a lot!) of growers take what took them maybe 6 months of work to get and then fucking ruin it. Jar/bag it up too wet=mold. Dry it too much=smells like lawn clippings. Re wet it with tortillas= right humidity, no smell. Not careful after re wetting=mold.
Its really every bit as important to take them time to do the last part right as everything else you do.
nrc.nerdzo
Member
yes, I am for real. Did you read what people were posting? Stating that plants in nature don't flush is reason enough to discredit the entire idea is not someone who is wiling to have a decent conversation. Whatever that lee harvey oswald stuff was, I dont know. New techniques are being discovered all the time that don't replicate natural conditions in the least.
nrc.nerdzo
Member
I didn't realize curing was as demanding. I've got some research to do.
chuck estevez
Well-Known Member
Always flush after the last wipe.
blowincherrypie
Well-Known Member
Google Boveda packs.. Honestly the best $10 you can spend and makes the cure easy-peasy.. The cure is no doubt a big part of everything, and like previous posters have mentioned, is one of the easiest places to ruin everything.
If you feel you must flush, I would suggest feeding until you think it's good to pick and then flush a week. That way you would have literally nothing but a weeks worth of grow space to lose. Good luck!
If you feel you must flush, I would suggest feeding until you think it's good to pick and then flush a week. That way you would have literally nothing but a weeks worth of grow space to lose. Good luck!
Bryon240
Well-Known Member
Hello Fivethirty I was wondering if you would share with me your process of curing ... Thanks
