when to go to 8" hoods/fans?

el throttle

Well-Known Member
I've ran 2 600's and a 400 in a 8x8 tent. I've ran 4 400's in an 8x8 and I'm currently running 2 600's in a 4x8. I use silverhut and growlab tents. I've also ran several combinations of single light systems in various sized smaller tents, a 5x5, 4x4,3x3,2x4.... I've used hydrofarm hoods (radiant and daystar), xtrasun, no namers and im running two magnum 6" right now, every combination has ran perfect with a 6" fan. i use hydro farm fans (cheap green ones) and max fans(thinking of getting a valuline fan) but anyways........ I'm gonna run my 8x8 again but this time i wanna run 4 600's, and i kinda wanna get a 10x10 and run 6 600's maybe now, maybe later.....when do you guys think an 8" is needed. i was thinking maybe just bumping the fan to an 8" or 10" with a necked down to a 6" my only issue with this is that it makes me wanna ditch the tent and the air cooled hoods for adjust a wings since i could move more air with the bigass fans and just do the open room. id like to know what you educated growers out there think. thanks in advance for any thoughts. here are some pics of one of my girls in the little 4x8 i got going (8weeks today). thanks, "el throttle"...
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drolove

Well-Known Member
ya you could just do the whole tent with aircooled wings and use a 8 inch to pull all the air out of the top of it. not 100 percent sure but after 1000 watts you want a 8 inch.

looks good though!
 

el throttle

Well-Known Member
thanks drolove! i can see that, but its the same concept of the open room i have in mind with 6 600's...what to do what to do... lol
 

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
I like to use 6" hoods. Just use 1 8" fan for 3 hoods and your set. No real need for the 8" unless you got a huge grow going. But then you will be using a 12" fan or better.
 
Sunlight Supply recommends moving up to 8" if you plan on running 4+ reflectors in a row...you should be good. With that said, I really like Adjust-a-Wings...I think they're the way to go if you can control your temp/humidity. Seal the room, spend some extra $$$ on a nice air conditioner/dehumidifier, supplement CO2, and you're golden.
 

problemsolver

Active Member
A little more food for thought. The 8" and the 10" are essentially the same motor and impeller. The 10" just blows through a larger hole. Here's a great tip if you want to get the most bang for your buck in terms of ventilating heat from your set-up. Leave about a foot or two above your lighting as an air plenum space that also leaves room for any ducting, wiring, etc. Bring the air into the room from one side of this plenum zone, up top and not from floor level. Do not blow air into the room. Simply have an opening that is large enough to supply your exhaust, but not so large that you start to take away from the negative air pressure effect (ie, you always want your exhaust fans to be a little hungry for more air, just a touch). At the other side of this above the light air plenum you would have your exhaust fans pull the air out.
Of course I may have some detractors with this suggestion, but allow me to explain. By concentrating the intake and exhaust air movement up top, just above the lighting, you greatly reduce the hotspots caused by the light fixtures. Hot air will always rise naturally on its own, but even more so when the velocity of air movement above the fixture is far greater than below. To get some fresh air circulating below and above the canopy, simply use oscillating fans as you normally would.
 

el throttle

Well-Known Member
warlock1369 so i prob go 6" for a row of three and then another 6" for second row.. thanks bro, unless i use one 12 pulling on both sets in a y form..
 

el throttle

Well-Known Member
Sunlight Supply recommends moving up to 8" if you plan on running 4+ reflectors in a row...you should be good. With that said, I really like Adjust-a-Wings...I think they're the way to go if you can control your temp/humidity. Seal the room, spend some extra $$$ on a nice air conditioner/dehumidifier, supplement CO2, and you're golden.
i love the simplicity of adjust a wings..... they make me just wanna hang a shit load of them.lol i grow in tents but would love to do an open room.. people always say seal the room but what does that really consist of? i got a friend that is a slacker and grows some really nice bud in an open room. its funny cause the door has so much light shinning through the edges... the only thing he did was cover his window... and ive always been skeptical about running co2.. is it really worth it? ive always just used good ventalation and have been able to grow between 70-78 degree temps year round. i got no issues investing into my passion, just like to see results in my investments... every time i see co2 its always accompanied with higher temps(mid 80's ugh...)..i just love my fresh tents. lol i always wanna take a nap in there with them.
 

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
IMO it's better limit how many hoods you have on 1 fan. The last one will have the most heat. So for 6 light I woul do 2 inlets 2 outlets and 2 fans.
 

el throttle

Well-Known Member
A little more food for thought. The 8" and the 10" are essentially the same motor and impeller. The 10" just blows through a larger hole. Here's a great tip if you want to get the most bang for your buck in terms of ventilating heat from your set-up. Leave about a foot or two above your lighting as an air plenum space that also leaves room for any ducting, wiring, etc. Bring the air into the room from one side of this plenum zone, up top and not from floor level. Do not blow air into the room. Simply have an opening that is large enough to supply your exhaust, but not so large that you start to take away from the negative air pressure effect (ie, you always want your exhaust fans to be a little hungry for more air, just a touch). At the other side of this above the light air plenum you would have your exhaust fans pull the air out.
Of course I may have some detractors with this suggestion, but allow me to explain. By concentrating the intake and exhaust air movement up top, just above the lighting, you greatly reduce the hotspots caused by the light fixtures. Hot air will always rise naturally on its own, but even more so when the velocity of air movement above the fixture is far greater than below. To get some fresh air circulating below and above the canopy, simply use oscillating fans as you normally would.
interesting........., but i would have to think about that one a bit. it kinda makes sense, i guess.. but i would think so much more would come into play if you wanna get that fine tuned..as in, pressure differential(pressure is always going to equalize), inertia is another one to consider, and would the oscillating fans cause any reversion? creating a plenum is great for equal air distribution but usually the exhaust is on the opposite side of the whole system, not just straight to the plenum. so the system would only be on top of the canopy, so technically only half of the upper section would be a plenum and the other half would be your exhaust system right? i kind feel like you would just be feeding your exhaust. very interesting got my wheels turning.. i think the plenum section would be better between the lights and the top of the plants as to thats how i have my tents set up.. with good fans and fan controllers i can change pressure difference in any which way i want... thanks though nice to know people out here think this deep too..
 
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