Whats this Deficiency?

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TexadaTimewarp

Member
i usually replace filters every 6 months but i definately gone past that currently lol. membrane maybe due for a switch aswell

Bernie420 said:
Right on I like to clean my r/o carbon filter and the paper filter with a sprayer every so often. The green carbon filter should be replaced every 6 months or so maybe same with the paper but that could go longer as its only paper. The membrane they say every year but I go by when my RO water reads 150ppms time to start looking for some money to replace and if it get to 200 ppms time to replace.

When you have new filters in all take notice of how much water (flow rate) is coming into the r/o barrel. Later if you notice the holding barrel for the r/o isnt flowing as strong or takes longer to fill then you need to look at the green carbon filter to be replaced= most likely the culprit.
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Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
As far as replacing RO prefilters and membrane, this is dependent on how dirty your tap water is and how many gallons a day you use.

My tap H2O is about 220 - 260 PPM and I use about 35 to 40 gallons a day of filtered H2O. I replace my prefilters every run (70 days ish) and I replace the membrane about once a year. I use a WECO 350 GPD commercial unit, output is 3 to 4 PPM. For my setup the Stealth RO 300 GPD unit wouldnt even make it thru one 70 day run before water out was actually dirtier than water going in. I think their products went way downhill because I used to run 200 GPD stealth RO filters and they would make it about 90 to 100 days before the PPM went up past 100.
 
T

TexadaTimewarp

Member
Bernie420 said:
I dont see a need ===potassium deficiency are pretty noticeable, plenty of pics on the internets.
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heres a lower fan leaf. didnt get much light but whats going on here. this is what happens to all the big fan leaves eventually throughout flower . starts as little tip burn. (light green tip. to burnt tip)
then shows up on edges. then worse case starts killing the leaf completely
 

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T

TexadaTimewarp

Member
good info there.

my tap is 500-600ppm ...brutal.

after RO .. around 20-30 right now so filters should be good?

i only use about 16 gallons a week so not too much

Renfro said:
As far as replacing RO prefilters and membrane, this is dependent on how dirty your tap water is and how many gallons a day you use.

My tap H2O is about 220 - 260 PPM and I use about 35 to 40 gallons a day of filtered H2O. I replace my prefilters every run (70 days ish) and I replace the membrane about once a year. I use a WECO 350 GPD commercial unit, output is 3 to 4 PPM. For my setup the Stealth RO 300 GPD unit wouldnt even make it thru one 70 day run before water out was actually dirtier than water going in. I think their products went way downhill because I used to run 200 GPD stealth RO filters and they would make it about 90 to 100 days before the PPM went up past 100.
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Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Your filter sounds like its doing well. I just watch for a jump in output PPM. Replacing your prefilters before they are toast will help your membrane last longer.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Another good tip, use a permeate booster pump. This takes the waste water and uses it to pump up the output pressure of the RO filter. Doing this helps keep waste water to a minimum when filling a pressure tank or fighting back pressure from a nearly closed float valve.
 

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Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
TexadaTimewarp said:
heres a lower fan leaf. didnt get much light but whats going on here. this is what happens to all the big fan leaves eventually throughout flower . starts as little tip burn. (light green tip. to burnt tip)
then shows up on edges. then worse case starts killing the leaf completely
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Just looks like burnt tips to me = too hot
The larger fan leaves at the top look low on mag to me research what mg is what it does and its the center molecule of what?



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Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
Your filter sounds like its doing well. I just watch for a jump in output PPM. Replacing your prefilters before they are toast will help your membrane last longer.
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Awesome advice, also when you replace the green carbon filter you need to disconnect the lines to bleed the first quart of water or so, so that black dirty water doesn't shoot into your new or old membranes.

There is a video/s on the youtube about this
 
T

TexadaTimewarp

Member
Renfro said:
ph is too low, potassium deficiency. Center pH on 6.5 and drift + or - 0.2
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After reading through forums all day. Ive came across many people growing in a peat based soilless. ( not amended with organic additives) that had similar problems as i do. it was a common reply that when they raised their PH higher (around 6.5.. even up to 6.7) problems went away.

I think the notion of "soiless grow" should be PHd like hydro is BS. atleast growing in peat based., non amended soiless

Added some epsom salt right now. defintately seeing that MG defieciency now that is probably effecting uptake of other nutrients. tested runoff after feeding epsom /cal mag water one last time . PPMs average 400-500 and ph 6.3-6.7.

they key all these years could of just been higher PH and epsom when needed. atleast we will see.

thanks for help guys
 
T

TexadaTimewarp

Member
can you feed epsom salts in every feeding until symptoms go away?

ive read that its pretty hard to hurt plants with them.

Bernie420 said:
I ALWAYS get burnt tips when i start flowering.. and then spreads to the edges.... over the years ive tried many different types of nutes and every time in flower this happens... whats the ppm of the last week in veg and you jump it up to what? Thats why you get burnt tips first week of flower.



im thinking it could be my water.. at the tap it draws 600 PPM so i cannot use that on my plants. forced to use RO system but still feels like chemicals making its way through... (city water) Whats the ppm of the RO water before you add anything?

Tested runoff... all 8 plants were around 200 PPM and all had PH between 6-6.4. after 4days Testing ppm when doing a flush or to see how hot the pot is, is ok, testing ph in the runoff is silly


PPMs going in around 1000 on normal feed. PH 6.0-6.2 For the first weeek of flower that is too hot. Excessive salts will kill the microbe population and restric plant growth. Start the first week of flower at the same ppm as the last week of veg, go up 50ppms each week for 4-5 weeks then drop back down 50ppms each week

Get a microbe product and use it once a week research what microbes do.
Plant look like its at the beginning of a mag deficiency add epsom salt at about 50-60ppms to see if it helps adjust from there.
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Bernie420

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
TexadaTimewarp said:
can you feed epsom salts in every feeding until symptoms go away?

ive read that its pretty hard to hurt plants with them.
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I suppose feed or just water it would be ok maybe do a few at 1gr per gal then cut it back to 1/2 gram per gal for a maintenance dose.
 
T

TexadaTimewarp

Member
Renfro said:
Yeah the soiless mix is a buffer and must be dealt with accordingly. lol Best of luck in your grow!
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Update.

Well. plants definately loving the changes. All deficiences have been halted. Leaves getting back to healthier colour aswell!.

Thesis. PH way too low ,(like you suggested) In turn that created a Mag deficiency... that then effected uptake of potassium and nitrogen.

Also.. turns out my PPM pen was way off... I got a new , professional one (tds/ec/salinity) with calibration solution and its bang on.

Old pen was reading 500 when PPM was actually around 850-900.

After adding cal mag to RO water. what i thought my PPMs were 200-250 were actually much higher around 350-450

Going half recommended strength from cal.mag and nutes brings total PPM to around 750-850



The fix :
Flushed medium completely with PH'd RO water cal mag ppm 200

Nute solution:

Epsom salts

1/4 strength nutes at end of flush

PH nutes to 6.5 ( soilless non amended)

Next watering I did :

nutes PPM 700

And last watering i did :

PPM 850


( plants loving life again)

thanks everyone
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
TexadaTimewarp said:
The fix :
Flushed medium completely with PH'd RO water cal mag ppm 200

Nute solution:

Epsom salts

1/4 strength nutes at end of flush

PH nutes to 6.5 ( soilless non amended)

Next watering I did :

nutes PPM 700

And last watering i did :

PPM 850


( plants loving life again)

thanks everyone
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Glad to hear the plants are happy. Good job!
 
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