What's the difference between normal leaves and 'sex' leaves ?

Other than what the topic says..

And by sex leaves I mean the 2 small leaves that pop out of nodes right before the plant first shows it's sex..

Anatomy question..

Thanks

I have the feeling you're asking one of those questions where if the question made sense, you'd already know the answer. (if you can find it in an anatomy diagram, you'll probably figure out what you're talking about and thus what the difference is)

Miko2 said:

Other than what the topic says..

And by sex leaves I mean the 2 small leaves that pop out of nodes right before the plant first shows it's sex..

Anatomy question..

Thanks

Click to expand...

churchhaze said:

I have the feeling you're asking one of those questions where if the question made sense, you'd already know the answer. (if you can find it in an anatomy diagram, you'll probably figure out what you're talking about and thus what the difference is)

Click to expand...

I'm just looking for a bottom line.
For example, I read that you should start feeding your plant as soon as you see the first marijuana leaves (leaves number 3-4 of the plant)..

So, should I do something different when I see those 2 small sex leaves ?
Start feeding it with the bloom nutes ? (even when you still can't tell it's sex)

the sex leaves you are talking about are not real, if you mean the pistils/hair or nuts/pollen sacks, then i understand, but the "leaves" will actually grow into branches and off shoots if kept in veg, there is no such thing as sex leaves.
as to the whole nutrients question, most people (from what ive heard/read) use one of a couple methods.

A: once the pistils/pollen sacks show, they do a 25/75, 50/50, 75/25, 100 feeding regiment throughout the feedings. example, you see pistils tomorrow, your next feeding solution is 25% flowing nutrients and 75% grow nutrients, then the next feed is 50% flower, 50% grow, the next feeding is 75% flower 25% grow, and then a full strength 100% flower nutrient for the rest of the feedings.

B: a cold turkey 100% flowering as soon as pistils appear.

C: a 50/50 mix for 2-3 feedings, then 100% flower nutrients.

once again, from what you've said, 3-4 leaves, you are either using an autoflower which automatically flowers at about that point, or you are vegging for a short time and using photoperiod. if you let the plant veg for several weeks-months, you will notice those small leaves that poke out will grow into further stalks or off shoots, this is especially noticeable with lst/scroging, there is no such thing as a sex leaf.

good luck with the grow

Are you referring to preflowers? (I've never heard of sex leaves.). I don't do anything different when I see preflowers. I continue vegging until I get to 6 weeks old, switch to 12/12 lighting and begin 50/50 veg/bloom nutrients.

az2000 said:

Are you referring to preflowers? (I've never heard of sex leaves.). I don't do anything different when I see preflowers. I continue vegging until I get to 6 weeks old, switch to 12/12 lighting and begin 50/50 veg/bloom nutrients.

Click to expand...

Yeah, pre-flower, sorry, I thought about the name cause I think the energy those leaves make go only to sex-related parts of the plant..
Oh, but I grow outdoors, can't change the light..

So the best sign to start using bloom nutes is when you can tell it's sex ?

Miko2 said:

So the best sign to start using bloom nutes is when you can tell it's sex ?

Click to expand...

I'm not an outdoor grower. Hopefully someone who is can answer your question. If I had to guess how to do it, I'd say I'd wait until the days get shorter and the plant goes into bloom. But, I don't know.

karousing said:

the sex leaves you are talking about are not real, if you mean the pistils/hair or nuts/pollen sacks, then i understand, but the "leaves" will actually grow into branches and off shoots if kept in veg, there is no such thing as sex leaves.
as to the whole nutrients question, most people (from what ive heard/read) use one of a couple methods.

A: once the pistils/pollen sacks show, they do a 25/75, 50/50, 75/25, 100 feeding regiment throughout the feedings. example, you see pistils tomorrow, your next feeding solution is 25% flowing nutrients and 75% grow nutrients, then the next feed is 50% flower, 50% grow, the next feeding is 75% flower 25% grow, and then a full strength 100% flower nutrient for the rest of the feedings.

B: a cold turkey 100% flowering as soon as pistils appear.

C: a 50/50 mix for 2-3 feedings, then 100% flower nutrients.

once again, from what you've said, 3-4 leaves, you are either using an autoflower which automatically flowers at about that point, or you are vegging for a short time and using photoperiod. if you let the plant veg for several weeks-months, you will notice those small leaves that poke out will grow into further stalks or off shoots, this is especially noticeable with lst/scroging, there is no such thing as a sex leaf.

good luck with the grow

Click to expand...

Ok, now things are more clear, Thanks a lot..

az2000 said:

I'm not an outdoor grower. Hopefully someone who is can answer your question. If I had to guess how to do it, I'd say I'd wait until the days get shorter and the plant goes into bloom. But, I don't know.

Click to expand...

Yes, I guess the question is about what if the days don't get shorter, cause they still are very long, and it's almost 10 weeks old..

The days are getting shorter since Jun 21. Earth's orbit around the sun is eliptical, meaning it "stalls" at either end (June 21/Dec 21). As we move away from June 21, the rate of daylight shortening increases. You can print a calendar showing hours of sunlight for your location: http://www.sunrisesunset.com/USA/

You'll see how the days become shorter after June 21, just by a minute or two. But, getting into late August, it accelerates. By mid September it's in full swing.

Again, I haven't grown outdoors. It sounds like you want to induce flowering by changing the nutrients. But, I don't think it works that way. I think you have to wait for the plant to do its thing. Probably in 30-60 days. The calendar above should help you visualize how darkness will come on stronger soon.

Hopefully an outdoor grower will answer. (Maybe have to post in the outdoor forum?).

az2000 said:

The days are getting shorter since Jun 21. Earth's orbit around the sun is eliptical, meaning it "stalls" at either end (June 21/Dec 21). As we move away from June 21, the rate of daylight shortening increases. You can print a calendar showing hours of sunlight for your location: http://www.sunrisesunset.com/USA/

You'll see how the days become shorter after June 21, just by a minute or two. But, getting into late August, it accelerates. By mid September it's in full swing.

Again, I haven't grown outdoors. It sounds like you want to induce flowering by changing the nutrients. But, I don't think it works that way. I think you have to wait for the plant to do its thing. Probably in 30-60 days. The calendar above should help you visualize how darkness will come on stronger soon.

Hopefully an outdoor grower will answer. (Maybe have to post in the outdoor forum?).

Click to expand...

This one's better, I'm not in the USA..
http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/sunrise.html
Ok, so I won't change nutes yet..
Thanks.

If you're growing outdoors, you'll need to wait until the light period changes enough to trigger flowering. Since you're not sure when that would be, just wait until it happens and you'll have 8-10 weeks (or longer) to feed all the bloom nutes you want. With 10+weeks in veg, that's gonna be a pretty big plant when it stretches! Yields should be good.

kryptoniteglo said:

If you're growing outdoors, you'll need to wait until the light period changes enough to trigger flowering. Since you're not sure when that would be, just wait until it happens and you'll have 8-10 weeks (or longer) to feed all the bloom nutes you want. With 10+weeks in veg, that's gonna be a pretty big plant when it stretches! Yields should be good.

Click to expand...

I wish, it's actually pretty small for a 10 weeks old, around 1.5 feets tall..
I made a mistake and dag holes which are too small..

Pics included, any word about it's sex ?

^^^Nope. Can't tell from that. That is a slow-growing plant if that's 10 weeks. If you had another month before flowering, I'd suggest topping for four main colas (see the Uncle Ben thread). But if it takes a long time to recover, it might not work well. So maybe just leave it alone and wait for nature to take its course. The stretch will give you more bud sites.

kryptoniteglo said:

^^^Nope. Can't tell from that. That is a slow-growing plant if that's 10 weeks. If you had another month before flowering, I'd suggest topping for four main colas (see the Uncle Ben thread). But if it takes a long time to recover, it might not work well. So maybe just leave it alone and wait for nature to take its course. The stretch will give you more bud sites.

Click to expand...

I've already topped, again topped, and just now FIMmed/topped the highest (4) nodes (not yet sure if it went well), as can be seen in pic b.jpg
So the plant should be having 8-16 high tops and few more "medium high" tops which are visible in the middle of the plant ..

My idea was to FIM/TOP till I know it's sex...... so 3 rounds already and not sure about the sex yet

I would stop topping since we are so close to flower. I top my ladies and took final clones last week. Like to let them recover and have the last couple 2-4 of weeks before flower stress free. Also is your lady in the ground dirt or Soil? From the pic it looks like hard dirt that roots can't move thru. If its 10 weeks and still that small you have bad medium. I don't see huge spacing between your nodes so its not the sun causing slow growth.

LoRd MeGaTR0N31 said:

I would stop topping since we are so close to flower. I top my ladies and took final clones last week. Like to let them recover and have the last couple 2-4 of weeks before flower stress free. Also is your lady in the ground dirt or Soil? From the pic it looks like hard dirt that roots can't move thru. If its 10 weeks and still that small you have bad medium. I don't see huge spacing between your nodes so its not the sun causing slow growth.

Click to expand...

Yeah I didn't want to top it, but I saw time goes by and no signs of sex, so... no reason not to do it.

It's in a small amount of bought soil, and yes - not the best natural soil around it .. (the bought soil is a bit hidden.. it's darker than the native)

I wanted a small plant, cause it's geurilla growing, so I let the plant stay in a 200cc plastic glass til it was 3 weeks old.. to force it to be small, but I never thought it would be only 1.5 feets tall @ 10 weeks old
It's not the sun for sure, strong sun, hardly any clouds, no rain..

Yea when I first started outdoors I thought i could grow in the ground and my plants grew but not good. Then when I started digging 10 gallon holes and filling up with my made medium plants grow lovely now. I keep my ladies small too. Im in a area where huge trees would be spotted. I keep mine tied down and try to keep there overall height 5 feet and under. Before stretch my ladies are about 2-3 feet tall.

LoRd MeGaTR0N31 said:

Yea when I first started outdoors I thought i could grow in the ground and my plants grew but not good. Then when I started digging 10 gallon holes and filling up with my made medium plants grow lovely now. I keep my ladies small too. Im in a area where huge trees would be spotted. I keep mine tied down and try to keep there overall height 5 feet and under. Before stretch my ladies are about 2-3 feet tall.

Click to expand...

Hiding is a must.. or the whole thing might get ripped up..... 10 gallons is big, I guess you grow Indicas