What week to introduce palco

I have a quick question if your using a additive that has palco in it which is used to stop the stretch and create dense nugs why does some additives say start in week3,4,5 isnt most of the stretch done at that point? I recently bought g-10 which is pgr free mostly kelp extract just wondering. Thanks

yungd8383 said:

I have a quick question if your using a additive that has palco in it which is used to stop the stretch and create dense nugs why does some additives say start in week3,4,5 isnt most of the stretch done at that point? I recently bought g-10 which is pgr free mostly kelp extract just wondering. Thanks

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Paclo should never be used unless its an absolute emergency. It contains alot of harmful by products that u do not want to ingest or inhale period.

If u do however need to use it, than it should be used during the beginning of the 2nd week of bloom. All u need to do is apply one feeding on your watering day preferably. I dont recommend doing it during a feed day but I think u can but I wouldnt!!

It should only be used if ur ceiling heights are going to be an issue bcuz it will stop the stretch in its tracks and does work very well for most part!! HOWEVER, the reason u dont want to use it besides the obvious health risks and reasons is because the stretch is the most important part of bloom for your plants. The stretch phase is when ur plants pack on the size and the flowering sites they need to produce its flowers. So why would you want to do that?? For that reason alone u dont ever wanna do it unless its ABSOLUTELY NO OTHER CHOICE BECAUSE OF HEIGHT ISSUES.

And u can always make a trellis and simply weave plants inside of it to bend them and force them to grow and limit the canopy height which is something I would rather have everyone do than use Paclo at all.

Furthermore understanding the importance of why plants stretch and the role it plays in growth and bud development u would never wanna use that shit ever. And id much rather see people use LST (low stress training techniques) and trellis netting or simply tying down tops. Or another good recommendation is to super crop or pinch the tops to induce the plant to bush out instead of growin vertical. So as u see there are many many more options besided using that bs paclo. And why wud u wanna knowingly give that to ur friends, family or use yourself? Def not a good idea.

BOL and HAPPY HARVESTING!!

Everything he just said is why they tell you to use it starting week 3, g-10 is a flower hardener. It's not supposed to effect the stretch at all. Meaning if u use it to early you won't get enough stretch. While the product does what it says, (makes bud dense as shit) the by products are not worth it in my opinion. (Cancer)

yungd8383 said:

I have a quick question if your using a additive that has palco in it which is used to stop the stretch and create dense nugs why does some additives say start in week3,4,5 isnt most of the stretch done at that point? I recently bought g-10 which is pgr free mostly kelp extract just wondering. Thanks

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Paclo doesnt make bud dense. Its used to stop stretch. Thats why u hit it right after week 1. At the onset of flowering which is usually betwen 5-7 days after the flip u hit it w one feeding and its all set.

If u want a really good flower hardener than u need get atami bloombastic. Use final 2-3 weeks of bloom. It will produce rock hard flowers. It is expensive but its the best on market IMO

pk_boosted2 said:

Paclo doesnt make bud dense. Its used to stop stretch. Thats why u hit it right after week 1. At the onset of flowering which is usually betwen 5-7 days after the flip u hit it w one feeding and its all set.

If u want a really good flower hardener than u need get atami bloombastic. Use final 2-3 weeks of bloom. It will produce rock hard flowers. It is expensive but its the best on market IMO

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Paclo is known for making bud dense. It does also stop vertical growth. But it's main purpose, especially when using g-10 which is advertised as a flower hardener, it to dense up flowers. I bet if you look on the back of atami bloombastc it no where claims to be a flower hardener. It took a lot to get to use those words "flower hardener" on their bottle. Paclo and bull kelp is the secret to g10. Paclo gives you the density and the bull kelp gives you the size.

Carolina Dream'n said:

Paclo is known for making bud dense. It does also stop vertical growth. But it's main purpose, especially when using g-10 which is advertised as a flower hardener, it to dense up flowers. I bet if you look on the back of atami bloombastc it no where claims to be a flower hardener. It took a lot to get to use those words "flower hardener" on their bottle. Paclo and bull kelp is the secret to g10. Paclo gives you the density and the bull kelp gives you the size.

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It does say its a hardener on the bottle label. Its a hardener, sweetener and enhancer.

Dif states have dif bottles and labels depending on states requirements.

But it is marketed as a flower hardener and foowering enhancer for developing denser compact flowers.

Expensive but very good shit

pk_boosted2 said:

It does say its a hardener on the bottle label. Its a hardener, sweetener and enhancer.

Dif states have dif bottles and labels depending on states requirements.

But it is marketed as a flower hardener and foowering enhancer for developing denser compact flowers.

Expensive but very good shit

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what week in flower you usually give your plants bloombastic using coco would it be good for that or not so well?

QuestforKnowledge said:

what week in flower you usually give your plants bloombastic using coco would it be good for that or not so well?

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I cant pinpoint the week because every strain is different. You want to being using the bastic as soon as u see the first wave of flowering stop "bulking period". Usually around week 5/6 on most varieties. Soon as u see them slow the bulking down u begin using the bastic to fill them in and pack on size. U will literally notice another "growth spurt" a few days after administering this shit its an awesome product.

I usually run it for 3 weeks. I dont have bottle in front of me but im pyramid the feedings. I think its either 2/4 ml per gallon max. So i do 1ml per gallon wk 1 than following week max dose and than final week back down to 1.

Its very good product and has nice smell. Its basically a hardener and sweetener in one. I find using this in conjunction with lower temps during end of bloom provides swoll rock hard flowers for me.

Ive done side by sides with it and done comparison with and without using it. Ive tried using it earlier in bloom. Later in bloom. Thats the best time I find to use it and to use it for those 3 weeks but def use it minimum of 2. It is expensive so use what u feel comfortable with but i promise its well worth the price if u want good results.

Thanks I will defiantly look into it sounds worth trying.

QuestforKnowledge said:

Thanks I will defiantly look into it sounds worth trying.

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I use it on all of my grows. I especially like using it in place of Canna PK 13/14 if i run canna. Or i like to use it and find it works exceptionally well with Botanicare Pure Blend Pro lineup.

Nutrient Recipe on a 9 week variety for Bloom Phases:

Pure Blend Veg (full strength wk 1 .. 1/2 strength with 1/2 strength bloom wk 2 than stop)
Pure Blend Bloom (bloom cycle 1/2 strength beginning on the second wk with 1/2 strength veg - use at full strength weeks 3-6.. 1/2 stregth til harvest)
Silica (every feeding)
Hydroplex (week 3-6)
Cal-Mag (every feed til wk 5 @5/10 ml per gallon)
Sweet Raw (final 4 weeks)
H&G Roots Excel (weeks 1-3)
ZHO (every other feeding til week 6)
Bloombastic (wk 6-
** beneficial & microbes I run Greatwhite every other week once a week and also use teas I like OG tea from Kyle Kushman line I think its the best on market!!

I use Sunshine #4 Advanced Coco/Perlite
Use worm castings 1:5
Dolomite Lime 1 cup per bag
Add Vermiculite 1:5

Guaranteed minimum 1.5 lbs per 1k. I usually get just at or around 2 lbs per light running 6 (5 gallon pots) per light running 5/6 weeks of veg time. Obviously this is dependent on strain/variety and assuming your temperatures and etc are all in good parameters.

Most importantly I cant stress enough when running drain to waste systems or soilless that water temperature during feedings is critical to yield and plant health. Ppl always forget how important healthy roots are for ur grows. What u cant see underneath makes a huge difference to yields and quality of ur grows.

cool thanks for the info I usually try an keep water at 68 degrees when I was dwc now im running drain to waste keep water the same

QuestforKnowledge said:

cool thanks for the info I usually try an keep water at 68 degrees when I was dwc now im running drain to waste keep water the same

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I would try to maintain a temperature of 70 degrees when you water so long as ur day temps are where they should be. If the room temps get higher say in excess of 80 i would then begin to lower it from there.

Anything under 65 degrees at the roots and plants have trouble uptaking nutrients. Higher than 75 causes pathogens and bacteria to take over.

BOL