What Things Should I Look Out For When Growing Hydroponically?

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That's such a broad question, it's quite difficult to answer. Tell us more about your grow space, ideas on hydro setups, lighting, venting, etc.

In terms of water, are we talking about tap water, well water, rain water, distilled water, reverse osmosis water, etc.?

In terms of nutes, what products are you considering? Are you cloning or growing from seed?

There is no single link that will provide you with accurate information on all the subjects you mentioned. My best advice is to use the search button often...and focus some of your searches on pH, PPM, EC, temps, and so on. Or search these forums through Google by entering something like this:

site:rollitup.org when to add nutes

Hope that helps. Best of luck to ya!

Heres ya link, with every detail covered for growing:
Roseman's DIY Bubbleponics Tutorial - Marijuana Growing

Roseman said:

Heres ya link, with every detail covered for growing:
Roseman's DIY Bubbleponics Tutorial - Marijuana Growing

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Got through 20 p[ages reading the rest tonight.

gcvt420 said:

That's such a broad question, it's quite difficult to answer. Tell us more about your grow space, ideas on hydro setups, lighting, venting, etc.

In terms of water, are we talking about tap water, well water, rain water, distilled water, reverse osmosis water, etc.?

In terms of nutes, what products are you considering? Are you cloning or growing from seed?

There is no single link that will provide you with accurate information on all the subjects you mentioned. My best advice is to use the search button often...and focus some of your searches on pH, PPM, EC, temps, and so on. Or search these forums through Google by entering something like this:

site:rollitup.org when to add nutes

Hope that helps. Best of luck to ya!

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Good post.

Roseman said:

Heres ya link, with every detail covered for growing:
Roseman's DIY Bubbleponics Tutorial - Marijuana Growing

Click to expand...

Roseman he asked about hydroponics not bubbleponics. Bubbleponics is not hydroponics and the two are vastly different in their needs. Bubbleponics is in its own subforum for a reason, because it is not aeroponic or hydroponics, it more closely parallels aerogardens and DWC systems.

Fatman, do I have to teach you everything?

THE DICTIONAIRY AND WICKIPEDIA SAY:
Hydroponics (from the Greek words hydro water and ponos labor) is a method of growing plants using mineral nutrient solutions, in water, without soil.

You are the newb that posted in a thread that asked

WHAT TEMP SHOULD MY WATER BE IN THE RESERVOIR

AND
you responded to my answer.

My answer:

Originally Posted by Roseman


60 to 75 is good for the water temp in the reservoir and 65 is best!

Your response:
And you base this upon what, soil grows, CO2 starved grows, cold temperature grows of 75 and below wher the limiter is ambient CO2 levels or your ever touted fabulous collection of comic book grade growing books?
__________________
Ba da, ba da, Boom! It is as simple as that. Ba da, ba da, Boom!

did you ever figure out we don't use water reservoir tanks in a soil grow?

I 'm going have to put you back on IGNORE again!

a link to fatmans ridiculous reply:
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/267493-what-tempture-dose-reservoir-have-3.html

I'd say key is the rez temps when growing hydroponically, then second would be like most grows...the temp needs to be between 70-80, and humidity 40-50 percent, as low as 30 percent late flowering, and clones and veg plants can take 75 percent relative humidity.

Then I would say start your nutes 1/4 strength, less is more when it comes to nutes. As they get bigger you can up to nutes..just read the leaves. here is a couple tips about the leaves.

if they are clawing like a bird on the tips, then you have over nuted them, you need to flush , and go 1/2 strenght, and the new leaves should appear healthy..the older ones will stay the same.

cut off very bad nute burns on the leaves, or pluck dry leaves.

Aeroponics is a great way to go. Check out www.stinkbuddies.com for tutorials on DIY aero/nft systems and full instructions from seed to harvest

Roseman don,t ever address a reply towards me and I will never address one towards you. I won't waste my time with you, your ignorance or your hypocricy.

I would use tap water if i was you so you don't get wild ph swings like you would with distilled or RO because they have no buffers tap water does. Main thing is ph control so your plants get maximum nutrient uptake. You have to change the res water out every week or so. If your res gets light in it you can get algea you could counter this with h202.

SmokeyMcPopkinZ said:

I would use tap water if i was you so you don't get wild ph swings like you would with distilled or RO because they have no buffers tap water does. Main thing is ph control so your plants get maximum nutrient uptake. You have to change the res water out every week or so. If your res gets light in it you can get algea you could counter this with h202.

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I don't know where this shit comes from, but it's flat out WRONG. Don't use tap water and monitor your own ph. The buffers in tap water actually make it MORE of a pain in the ass to keep your ph stable. The hardness of the water can also cause a multitude of problems. As can chloramine and calcium levels. It's much better to deal with the "known" than the unknown in your tap water. I just recently switched from RO to tap water, and now I've switched back to RO. It IMMEDIATELY caused me more problems than non-RO water and unless you like chasing your tail, I suggest starting on RO or distilled water to eliminate those few problems from your equation when figuring out what your plants are doing.

still, use ro water, its way better, but this just answered a question i had, thats why i commented

laserbrn said:

I don't know where this shit comes from, but it's flat out WRONG. Don't use tap water and monitor your own ph. The buffers in tap water actually make it MORE of a pain in the ass to keep your ph stable. The hardness of the water can also cause a multitude of problems. As can chloramine and calcium levels. It's much better to deal with the "known" than the unknown in your tap water. I just recently switched from RO to tap water, and now I've switched back to RO. It IMMEDIATELY caused me more problems than non-RO water and unless you like chasing your tail, I suggest starting on RO or distilled water to eliminate those few problems from your equation when figuring out what your plants are doing.

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Sry to hear of ur problems laserbrn but Smokey isnt any more wrong then u are..
Stinky dank buds is got from tap water hydro systems everywhere... ro water from the getgo MIGHT eliminate any problems your water MIGHT have.

sherriberry said:

still, use ro water, its way better, but this just answered a question i had, thats why i commented

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Its not 'way' better, it just might be necessary in some cases..
Its one less thing i have to micro-manage.

streetlegal said:

Its not 'way' better, it just might be necessary in some cases..
Its one less thing i have to micro-manage.

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The PH buffers in tap water are way more of a pain in the ass than they are a benefit.

I switched to tap water on my flowering plants. Personally I like being able to lower my ph without dumping a gallon of ph down into my water over the course of a grow. Without the "buffers" it takes me 5 or 6 drops MAX to lower my ph in 20 gallons of water. With tap water I don't even use a dripper, I just pour straight from the bottle. Fuck that, RO water is way easier to manage.

There isn't any reason your ph should be DROPPING drastically to the poster above. If your ph is dropping that drastically you have bacteria in your reservoir and you need to flush it out, clean it very well and refill. Add something like Tarantula or AquaShield wo help combat the bacterial infection in your reservoir. SOMETHING is wrong and simply having ph buffered water isn't going to solve the underlying problem.

Anyways playa i just remembered you need to watch the ppm in your res for ppm/ec drops and raises. If the ppm/ec raises that just means that your plants are drinking more water than nutrients and you should add more water to dilute the solution accordingly. If it drop than your plants are drinking more of the nutrients and you should add more accordinly this is often over looked but usually aoided if you switch your res water out weekly.
P.S fatman got owned

SmokeyMcPopkinZ said:

Anyways playa i just remembered you need to watch the ppm in your res for ppm/ec drops and raises. If the ppm/ec raises that just means that your plants are drinking more water than nutrients and you should add more water to dilute the solution accordingly. If it drop than your plants are drinking more of the nutrients and you should add more accordinly this is often over looked but usually aoided if you switch your res water out weekly.
P.S fatman got owned

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Agreed about all of this, especially the fatman part, he was just way off base.

And I agree, I didn't write my statements very well as it's a matter of habit. There aren't very many ABSOLUTES in this game and you can use tap or RO, but I prefer RO. Everything I write on here is my opinion (unless I clearly state a fact AS fact), but I've always written opinion pieces ommitting such statements as "IMO", and "IMHO", or "I think..." as it being clearly an opinion it is simply redundant and far less persuasive. I then back those opinions up with facts, but the fact is I could make the argument about how to make tap water work, I just suggest RO and as such state my OPINION a little too strongly in my earlier posts and I aplogize if I seemed uncompromising, it's a writing habit.

laserbrn said:

Agreed about all of this, especially the fatman part, he was just way off base.

And I agree, I didn't write my statements very well as it's a matter of habit. There aren't very many ABSOLUTES in this game and you can use tap or RO, but I prefer RO. Everything I write on here is my opinion (unless I clearly state a fact AS fact), but I've always written opinion pieces ommitting such statements as "IMO", and "IMHO", or "I think..." as it being clearly an opinion it is simply redundant and far less persuasive. I then back those opinions up with facts, but the fact is I could make the argument about how to make tap water work, I just suggest RO and as such state my OPINION a little too strongly in my earlier posts and I aplogize if I seemed uncompromising, it's a writing habit.

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hey its alright man no harm done everyone has there own ways of growing you know these different opinions and methods of growing are always welcomed by me and i respect the fact that you use RO because it works for you tap water works for me that's why i use it

In what way am I off base chumps. To begin with no body n=knows what is in their water with an anlysis of the water. Saying u you have a high pm in and of it self does not mean you need RO water. Like I have pointed out many times already soluble calcium can be easily removed without using an RO filter. Heat water with soluble calcium and the calcium precipitates. Filter that water while it is stilll hot and you remove that cals cium as calcium crabom nate precipates. Ie if thar t was the reson y for your high TDS you no longer have a high t TDS.

If carbonates were not necessary then they would not form naturally in water in order to try to balance he pH by buffering against acids. If you would bother to notice the reason pH up is needed is do to an increase of acid ions (H+). This happensmost often during budding when theplants roots create and release a large amount of H+ ions. If you looked at an MDS on pH up you would see besides just a hydroxide to raise the pH (pottasium Hydroxide) a pH buffer is also added (potassium Carbonate). As no Nutrient n manafacturer mixes its formulas based upon different tap waters the buffer content of tap water is pretty much just ignored. As all quality nutrient formulations have every thing need for the natural formation of alkaline carbonates they are not added to preparations made for RO water. However, as enough carbonates might not be naturally created to maintain adequate pH an alkaline carbonate is added to the pH up. Alkaline carbonates do not really raise pH they just buffer acids to prevent drops in pH due to acids. So is RO water better than tap water. Not necessarily, but it is better than some tap water. As for my being way off base on something. Point it out to me. I am quite sure you are wrong. If your basing anything I said as being right or wrong based upom anything rRoseman says/writes you are definitely depending on the wrong person.

Myself, I always use RODI water, but I have water that has a great amount of calcium , permante hardness carbonates, asenic, copper with a ph of 8.2. My tap water has a TDS of over 250 in the summer and 340 in the winter and it is lime softened at the treatment plant. If thewater only contained solubale calcium and a small amounts of carbonates I would not use an RO filter but would just heat and filter the water. But that is also because I don/t pay for fuel or hot water because I rent. I do haveto pay formy water and the electricity to run thepump on my RO filter.

Asfor chlorine or chloroamine. I have no idea why this hasant ything to do with using RO water or not. RO filtration is only the RO membrane part of filtration. Saying RO filtration doesnot necessarily mean that any prefilters haven been use. They commonly are, any the carbon or combination of thseveral carbon filter remove the chlorine or chloroamine, but the RO filter doesnot removeeither chlorine or chloroamine. In all reality TFM (Thin Film Membraness) which comprise most RO membranes sold, are pretty quickly destroyed by Chlorine and Chloroamine.

Asforn my being so wrong guys. I run a University water ResourcesLaboratorty. I think I know abit more about water and water nutrient chemistry thatn Roseman who hasgained his knowledge through reading comic book gared marijuana growing books Magazines. I havea degreein Civil Engineering, Environmental Engineering and in Chemistry. I am trained to design water and sewage treatment plants and have done so many, many times. So if I am that wrong t you all got problems asI have been taught from the same textbooks as all theother design engineers in this country and was taught the same matertial by the same professors at the same acredited universities, as well as I teach the same material that has been and now is still being is proven scientifically to be true, both on paper and emperically.