What led strips to consider in 2024?

cdgmoney250

Well-Known Member
Damn, I ordered Gen 2 strips about 4 weeks ago because Gen 3s were only available in bulk with a 6 week lead time. I got them from digikey too
 

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
Next build for me, they are cree xpg3 diodes, reflow soldered the diodes myself with diodes sourced from arrow (super cheap) these are adura sinkpad mcpcb direct thermal path, bought 24 boards for $125 shipped. I fucked 1 up at first, but after that never messed another up. 96 watts max on each board but for efficiency reasons 32 watts each is a better #. They make these with 2 channels 12 on 1, 4 on another so you can have a red on the inside corners, I will buy those next time.
 

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Chronikool

Well-Known Member
I understand now what's being said. With that..I'd wager to say the other strips would be heating up to and thus lowering voltage. With starting voltages being so close I don't see the samsungs being so hotter than the others that they get stuck in that loop and run away. But, I can see this happening in much larger variances. Even if they were all the same voltage, same brand same make and model...what in theory keeps them from lowering voltage as they get hotter which feeds more current and hotter and more current etc? I'd assume the driver would be the brake at this point either in its overall capacity or its set limit with the pot?

What I might do is get a few strips and individually power one of each, one 48v and a 46v @ 30W per strip and measure the differential temp of each.

Then power one of each together in parallel at 60W max out from the driver and measure the differential temp. And, I can at this point use a multi-meter to measure the dc amps each led to see which one is hogging more of the overall 60W output from the driver.

Anyways, thanks for the input gents.
Just changing tact a bit...

Another reason to run 2 or more drivers in a fixture ..is that it acts as insurance in the rare event one of your drivers fails, Half (or more) of the fixture is still illuminating whilst you source a replacement.

Certainly beats keeping candles lit on a 12 hour cycle... i mean sure.. itz a lovely romantic gesture for your LED depraved lanky-stank canna-girls..
;)
 

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
Since we're talking multiple drivers, I've got a theory id like to try, for example let's say the xlg-240-L-ab has a voltage range of 178 - 342 volts Dc, 700ma and an efficiency rating of 93% which is good efficacy for a xlg series actually. Anyways let's say we have 3 of these drivers all wired in parallel, and 30 H in flux L06 strips 15 in series x 2. I could make a high, medium, and low setting by powering 3,2, or 1 drivers. The benefit being, if you didn't already know drivers get best efficiency running full power. When you dim your driver you lose efficiency, So current ratings for low, med, and high would be 350, 700, and 1050. Reading datasheets I do believe 1 driver would be running closer to 220watts because the voltages do not match perfect, but when running all three drivers I do believe it will run closer to the "perfect" voltage for this application, we would probably see around 710-715 watts at full power with an ability to dim without losing efficiency in the drivers. A lot of people do not like these higher voltage drivers but they are more efficient usually, because less amps means thinner wires, which effects not only wires going out but also the internals and the circuitry of the driver itself. Less amps tends to lead to less heat as well. Sorry for the ramble lol.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Since we're talking multiple drivers, I've got a theory id like to try, for example let's say the xlg-240-L-ab has a voltage range of 178 - 342 volts Dc, 700ma and an efficiency rating of 93% which is good efficacy for a xlg series actually. Anyways let's say we have 3 of these drivers all wired in parallel, and 30 H in flux L06 strips 15 in series x 2. I could make a high, medium, and low setting by powering 3,2, or 1 drivers. The benefit being, if you didn't already know drivers get best efficiency running full power. When you dim your driver you lose efficiency, So current ratings for low, med, and high would be 350, 700, and 1050. Reading datasheets I do believe 1 driver would be running closer to 220watts because the voltages do not match perfect, but when running all three drivers I do believe it will run closer to the "perfect" voltage for this application, we would probably see around 710-715 watts at full power with an ability to dim without losing efficiency in the drivers. A lot of people do not like these higher voltage drivers but they are more efficient usually, because less amps means thinner wires, which effects not only wires going out but also the internals and the circuitry of the driver itself. Less amps tends to lead to less heat as well. Sorry for the ramble lol.
Problem is that those drivers will not run in parallel. Or atleast the -M and -H type xlgs. Not sure why but we tried and failed. Spmetimes we could get two in parallel by turning them on manually but never woth a timer.
 

Jonesfamily7715

Well-Known Member
Problem is that those drivers will not run in parallel. Or atleast the -M and -H type xlgs. Not sure why but we tried and failed. Spmetimes we could get two in parallel by turning them on manually but never woth a timer.
Damn, I've done 2 xlg 240-h-ab parallel on 3 qb 96 elite v2 worked great had to use a different 50k ohm pot but worked great. I bet it'll work on hlg series. That's why it's important to speak on these kind things before trying them thank you. Still the principal is a good idea just need drivers capable
 

Chronikool

Well-Known Member
Majority of my builds are LED strips in 2024 but I still have various Cree xlamps chugging along.

This royal blue and warm white (not sure of the kelvin) xpe2's fixture currently in my mother tent. Originally debuting circa 2015. (with same budget driver) and was my 1st dedicated veg light.

Definitely got good practice at soldering those stars. Output is probably horrible but still fits purpose and is my token growroom relic..

Good thing about LED stars is that they can be easily repurposed and fill that tiny bit of spare voltage not used in the main fixture constant current driver. (700mA-1050mA-1400mA depending on diode used)

reserection of olde PC build -resize.jpg
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Majority of my builds are LED strips in 2024 but I still have various Cree xlamps chugging along.

This royal blue and warm white (not sure of the kelvin) xpe2's fixture currently in my mother tent. Originally debuting circa 2015. (with same budget driver) and was my 1st dedicated veg light.

Definitely got good practice at soldering those stars. Output is probably horrible but still fits purpose and is my token growroom relic..

Good thing about LED stars is that they can be easily repurposed and fill that tiny bit of spare voltage not used in the main fixture constant current driver. (700mA-1050mA-1400mA depending on diode used)

View attachment 5411470
+1 on filling up driver voltage. A few monos on that string really helps but generally i choose something other than blues, at least something slightly outside the normal spectral range.

When i get people to try out our buds every single one can sense which weed was grown with some extra uv/violet and what bud is just plain white grown bud.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Since we're talking multiple drivers, I've got a theory id like to try, for example let's say the xlg-240-L-ab has a voltage range of 178 - 342 volts Dc, 700ma and an efficiency rating of 93% which is good efficacy for a xlg series actually. Anyways let's say we have 3 of these drivers all wired in parallel, and 30 H in flux L06 strips 15 in series x 2. I could make a high, medium, and low setting by powering 3,2, or 1 drivers. The benefit being, if you didn't already know drivers get best efficiency running full power. When you dim your driver you lose efficiency, So current ratings for low, med, and high would be 350, 700, and 1050. Reading datasheets I do believe 1 driver would be running closer to 220watts because the voltages do not match perfect, but when running all three drivers I do believe it will run closer to the "perfect" voltage for this application, we would probably see around 710-715 watts at full power with an ability to dim without losing efficiency in the drivers. A lot of people do not like these higher voltage drivers but they are more efficient usually, because less amps means thinner wires, which effects not only wires going out but also the internals and the circuitry of the driver itself. Less amps tends to lead to less heat as well. Sorry for the ramble lol.
Yeah, i quite like the idea myself, making a repeated series of strips in order to make a custom spectrum or just save a bit on wiring. I tend to gravitate towards this with lower voltage strips, around 24V / 700mA. That way its easy to just throw in a mono strip in the series that tweaks the spectrum to where you want it. Its a bit like getting to design your own pcb/diode choice since you can really get some crazy tuned spectrums. I did this on a vesta strip build; 3x 25V vestas and one mono strip with 5x630s and 6x660s. Vegged and flowered like a dream but i prefer staying around 100V.
 
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