What kind of plant is this?

robert 14617

Well-Known Member
your going to have a better idea of what you have further into the grow just enjoy it no matter what you may or may not have
 

ipeeinpools

Well-Known Member
I'd say thats Cannabis...Lol, but seriously, it looks Indica dom, but I've also learned that the first week or 2 of veg, they always look Indica dom. I had a plant that looked VERY Indica dom for the first few nodes, and then just started going Sativa looking on me.
 
That's about right for a month old, it's a little small but still looking good. Yeah you're going to have an extremely hard time identifying the strain at this stage.. But it looks like at least 50% indica
 

Everett1227

Active Member
Well my problem is idk, what to get as far as output, type all that crap... I have a 2x2x5 grow space and I need to know the lights to get
 

Ganja viewer

Well-Known Member
sMALL FOR A MONTH, AND YES, LIGHTING IS KEY AND ALSO LEAVES LOOK A LITTLE limp. You may be over-watering also, unless pic was taken just after lights went on. Its hard to underwater. Just lift the pot and feel the weight. If its light as hell, water, if not, don't.(wait until light again, then water) Over-watering can be just as bad as under-watering. Water every couple days or so, not daily unless you have a light that's drying the soil up quicker.
 

Everett1227

Active Member
Well my problem is idk, what to get as far as output, type all that crap... I have a 2x2x5 grow space and I need to know the lights to get
 

xxEMOxx

Well-Known Member
looks indica to me, but until flowering begins its hard to tell..... I mean most plants like 80-90% nowadays are hybrids of some sort so yeah.
 

uksecretsensi

Well-Known Member
Get a 250 w cfl or 250w hps for that grow space. And some ventilation. And to answer your question you will nit know if it is indica or sativa until a bit later on. Some sativas grow like indicas in veg you will have a better idea when u flip em. And indica won't stretch like a sativa and indicas leaves are fatter and lighter green whereas sativas are tall lanky plants with thin leaves that can be very dark.
 

ipeeinpools

Well-Known Member
If your on a budget, or want to keep your energy bill down, and your just looking at one plant, I'd say look into CFL's. They're cheap, they produce little heat in small spaces, and they're cost effective. They won't get you the output of a HPS but then again, HPS comes with heat, more ventilation. There is a whole CFL group on here that has TONS of info.
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
I'd be more worried about getting the plant back to health instead of what type it is. You can tell on the first pic you posted that plant is in early stages of Interveinal chlorosis. Lesions on the plant might indicate a deficiency

Deficiencies

Nutrient deficiencies cause chronic disease in plants. When nutrients are lacking, important molecules like chlorophyll, DNA, RNA, proteins, and lipids cannot be manufactured. Enzymes may not carry out important chemical transformat*ions. In general, plant growth is slowed, and susceptibility to disease may increase. Flowering potted plants may be dwarfed, develop chlorosis or necrosis, have fewer flowers, and otherwise be unattractive.

Fig. 2. Typical symptoms of fertilizer deficiency in an unfertilized Aphelandra squarrosa. From the Compendium of Ornamental Foliage Plant Diseases.
Nitrogen is easily leached and must be supplied to plants frequently to prevent deficiency. A general chlorosis of the entire surface of older leaves, progressing upwards, is the most common symptom of nitrogen deficiency. Leaves may be reduced in size, internodes are shortened, and eventually a general loss of vigor or growth occurs (Fig. 2).
Phosphorus. One of the first symptoms of phosphorus deficiency is the production of small leaves and shortened internodes. Older leaves may lose their shine and become dull and eventually chlorotic. Green pigments are lost, so that red, yellow, and blue pigments show through, especially near main veins on the underside of leaves.
Potassium. Leaf and stem size are often reduced in plants that are deficient in potassium. The foliage remains its normal color on some plants; on others, necrosis and chlorosis occur, developing first on older leaves (Fig. 3).

Fig. 3. Older leaf of potassium-deficient Dictyosperma album. From Diseases and Disorders of Ornamental Palms.
Magnesium. A general reduction in plant vigor and reduced leaf size are common symptoms of magnesium deficiency. Interveinal and marginal chlorosis and necrosis also occur, developing first on older leaves (Fig. 4). On Philodendron scandens C. Koch & H. Sello subsp. oxycardium (Schott) Bunt. (heart-leaf philodendron), chlorosis occurs in a marginal V-shaped pattern. On some palms, only the tip becomes chlorotic. The chlorosis is a bronze color, and veins remain dark green. Premature senescence of older leaves may occur in mild cases.

Fig. 4. Magnesium deficiency
on Phoenix. (Click image for expanded view).
Calcium deficiency is not common in foliage or flowering plants. Small yellow lesions form on the basal half of older leaves of calcium-deficient plants. Water-soaked spots often develop within the chlorotic areas. Symptoms progress into younger leaves, and the chlorotic spots become necrotic, so that leaves sometimes abscise prematurely. Color breaks occur on spathe tissue of calcium-deficient Anthurium andraeanum Linden (Andrae’s flamingo flower). Internodes of Ficus benjamina L. (weeping fig) become elongated and weak, and its leaves become chlorotic and stunted. Some cultivars of poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima Willd. ex Klotzsch), such as Gutbier V-14 Glory and Celebrate II, develop bract necrosis when foliar tissue calcium levels are low, a condition that is difficult to distinguish from bract necrosis caused by Botrytis.

Fig. 5. New leaf of iron-deficient Caryota mitis. (Click image for expanded view).
Iron can become deficient under interiorscape conditions and when the pH of the growing medium is above 7. However, the occurrence of iron defi*ciency is largely dependent on the specific requirements of the plant. Chlorosis of the youngest leaves, often with the veins remaining green, is the most common symptom of iron deficiency (Fig. 5). Yellowing, stunting, and abscission of new leaves can also occur. Soil pH can influence the availability of iron to plants and should be monitored periodically. The ability of roots to absorb iron is reduced by poor root health caused by inadequate soil aeration resulting from excess soil water.
Sulfur deficiency is rare under normal conditions of plant production. An overall chlorosis of new leaves occurs. This symptom is easily confused with the chlorosis caused by nitrogen deficiency in some plants.
Manganese deficiency occurs in some plants such as large palms with deformation and chlorosis of newly emerging leaves as the most obvious symptom. Plants that completely lack manganese can be severely stunted.
Boron deficient plants have shortened internodes, thickened stems, and reduced leaf size. New leaves of deficient Ficus elastica Roxb. Ex Hornem. (India-rubber tree) are stunted and deformed and become brittle and stiff. Terminal leaves are especially distorted.
Copper deficiency causes severe distortion and stunting of new growth. One of the most common examples of this deficiency occurs in Aglaonema commutatum Schott ‘Fransher.’ It’s leaves are distorted and dwarfed and sometimes have a hooked appearance, with the edges rolled upward toward the center (Fig. 6). Terminal buds die, and laterals sometimes initiate growth, forming a witches’-broom.

Fig. 6. Copper deficiency on Aglaonema. (Click image for expanded view).
Zinc deficiency has been identified in only one foliage plant, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens H. Wendl. (areca palm). Leaves of all ages become uniformly chlorotic and terminal leaves are triangular, stunted, and deformed.
Molybdenum is needed in small amounts by plants, but the use of soilless media and fertilizers lacking this element can result in deficiencies in poinsettia. Symptoms are similar to those of nitrogen or iron deficiency and ammonium toxicity. Plants may be stunted, leaves are small and chlorotic, and leaf margins may become scorched. Leaves tend to curl upward.
Yours just looks a little light on the nutes imo
 

Everett1227

Active Member
Well what do you suggest I buy to help get the nutrients in there? and what product do I buy, something from Walmart preferably.
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
If your on a budget right now and can only get some things at walmart. Despite what some ppl will say, go get a sack of the miracle grow soil its like $6. Get the organic kind not sure if theres too much of a difference. But I have seen some good plants grown with that and you wont need to worry about feeding it, just watering. Also you gotta keep the PH at a decent level (6.5-7 is ideal), have you been checking the PH as well?
 

uksecretsensi

Well-Known Member
Ha pmsl. Wal-Mart?? No go to a hydro shop. Get somethin like canna, dutch pro, atami or plant magic. Also get either 250w cfl light or 250w hps light. But like was said have plenty of ventilation,
 
Top