What is the best way to fatten buds before harvesting
- Thread starter Cash_Crop
- Start date
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Well a prudent amount of PK booster will help but not too much. To save some bucks you can just buy some MKP monopotassium phosphate. It's the best PK booster and it's cheap when you buy it like that. 1 gram of MKP per gallon of water will provide 59.9 PPM of Phosphorous and 74.6 PPM of Potassium. I wouldn't go past 2 grams per gallon. It will drop the pH a little so check before feeding, 6.5 is ideal in soil.
SchmoeJoe
Well-Known Member
Yep. My keeper cut of Qrazy Train would look like there was something wrong until the last two weeks.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Bull shit!
High P speeds up the finish (this makes for loss of potentials) and K can, if used earlier and in very small amounts.. help somewhat.
The use of MKP is not good, at best..
One needs to keep in mind that high K inhibits THC production...... Same with N and Mg. Higher Fe over Mn makes for higher CBD and equal Fe and Mn is higher THC.
The single most effective way to in crease final bud size? Highest light output your wallet can tolerate...
Other factors include: smart topping practice - including lolly popping, cool run temps (approx. 73 F ambient mid plant) and running long. Longer then most think!
Keep your "booster" on the shelf of the shop....
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Letting the plants actually finish growing and FULLY ripening.
TONS of people harvest their plants too early because they are in a hurry or have some time frame they imposed on the plants. Unfortunately plants won’t follow our time frames, they follow theirs.
This will lead to loss of bud size, weight, density, smell, flavor and smoke quality.
The only thing people get from chopping early is less high and a faster turn around on crops.
TONS of people harvest their plants too early because they are in a hurry or have some time frame they imposed on the plants. Unfortunately plants won’t follow our time frames, they follow theirs.
This will lead to loss of bud size, weight, density, smell, flavor and smoke quality.
The only thing people get from chopping early is less high and a faster turn around on crops.
Wy east renegade
Member
Not to be a dick but the question, although not a bad one, kind of misses the point. That said looks to be outdoor grow so yeah...
But my point is fat flowers are the result of many things along the entire process. Fattening them up at the end is sort of wishful thinking. To get fat flowers you need to really do a handful of correct things along the way to prepare it for a strong finish. Once you are in the home stretch they are pretty much on a predetermined path.
That said I find two things that make for exceptional yield. The first and most obvious is root ball size. Sorry not something you can do at the end but in general all things being done correctly the final weight is determined by root ball mass. If you have fewer branches they get bigger flowers but the yield is mainly limited basically by root ball size / uptake. There are many pruning and training techniques to help get to the max potential of said root ball. Not doing these things will reduce the ability to get to max potential.
The only thing I have found that actually boosts beyond the potential for the plant in perfect conditions is something to be applied early not late in bloom. Chitosan, which is the primary ingredient in Bud Factor X, makes the plant think it has an insect infestation which does a lot of things which are positive for the growth. Google benefits of chitosan on yield or something like that. It improves a lot of things but one is the plant tries to over produce flowers and resin to beat the insects. The plants goal is to breed and if it thinks it is going to be killed it will bloom hard and fast. Too much chitosan and the plant will hermi to try and beat the infestation. So I wouldn’t apply it after about weeks 4 or so of bloom and usually not more than twice. Once around flipping of the lights and once 3 to 4 weeks later after all of the original is gone.
Sorry bro... neither of those are things you can do at the end but maybe next year some drought stressing in veg and making chitosan in an EWC tea will help you out.
Only thing else I use would be high quality fulvic acid, which is a bit spendy, but will increas uptake. There are unfortunately lots of low quality Fulvic acid out there. You get what you pay for.
I go the super simple route and make complete soils with robust compost so my plants only need water. After years of farting around with chemical nutes. I find that all these things go away and it is just easier to get robust hearty yields that way using recycled living soils... so I stay away from the chemicals.
This clone was one week in soil before going into bloom and had one feeding of tea initially to liven up the microbes and only sugar water from them on. (So yeah not much in the way of roots but I was proving a point about clones to a buddy).
Rock hard nugs... but like someone said... I waited until ready. The real problem with outdoor in most places is you have to harvest too early. I can’t grow this strain to completion outside where I live it is just a waste.
But my point is fat flowers are the result of many things along the entire process. Fattening them up at the end is sort of wishful thinking. To get fat flowers you need to really do a handful of correct things along the way to prepare it for a strong finish. Once you are in the home stretch they are pretty much on a predetermined path.
That said I find two things that make for exceptional yield. The first and most obvious is root ball size. Sorry not something you can do at the end but in general all things being done correctly the final weight is determined by root ball mass. If you have fewer branches they get bigger flowers but the yield is mainly limited basically by root ball size / uptake. There are many pruning and training techniques to help get to the max potential of said root ball. Not doing these things will reduce the ability to get to max potential.
The only thing I have found that actually boosts beyond the potential for the plant in perfect conditions is something to be applied early not late in bloom. Chitosan, which is the primary ingredient in Bud Factor X, makes the plant think it has an insect infestation which does a lot of things which are positive for the growth. Google benefits of chitosan on yield or something like that. It improves a lot of things but one is the plant tries to over produce flowers and resin to beat the insects. The plants goal is to breed and if it thinks it is going to be killed it will bloom hard and fast. Too much chitosan and the plant will hermi to try and beat the infestation. So I wouldn’t apply it after about weeks 4 or so of bloom and usually not more than twice. Once around flipping of the lights and once 3 to 4 weeks later after all of the original is gone.
Sorry bro... neither of those are things you can do at the end but maybe next year some drought stressing in veg and making chitosan in an EWC tea will help you out.
Only thing else I use would be high quality fulvic acid, which is a bit spendy, but will increas uptake. There are unfortunately lots of low quality Fulvic acid out there. You get what you pay for.
I go the super simple route and make complete soils with robust compost so my plants only need water. After years of farting around with chemical nutes. I find that all these things go away and it is just easier to get robust hearty yields that way using recycled living soils... so I stay away from the chemicals.
This clone was one week in soil before going into bloom and had one feeding of tea initially to liven up the microbes and only sugar water from them on. (So yeah not much in the way of roots but I was proving a point about clones to a buddy).
Rock hard nugs... but like someone said... I waited until ready. The real problem with outdoor in most places is you have to harvest too early. I can’t grow this strain to completion outside where I live it is just a waste.
Cash_Crop
Member
Yeah I agree 100 percent about the outdoor being to short of a stretch, I pulled my outdoor plants and transferred them indoors because I thought it would be a stronger finish all I did was give them stress attacks, biggest ones died first and dried out standing in there pots slowly. I thought they were in shock..which they were, big time. I have 5 lemon haze in late flower that made it from outside the leaves are still green and white pistols are still appearing, not sure when to pull em? Plus I have a dozen or so of each to do better on blue cheese, king Louis and white gold in veg right now, I’m using fluorescents because all my leds are in full force bloom I have 6 1000 watt on 5 plants. I wanna try to improve my flower room but I’m moving somewhere cheaper Mississauga Ontario Canada I’m paying 3000 rent per month, it is retarded I can’t even save a dime everything goes out or gets spent. Especially when I have to buy my high grade pot because I can’t seem to grow it on my own yet lol. I have my plants still curing and they have a gassy smell I used advance to nutrients through out bud candy for flavour and flawless finish to flush. I hope the smell goes away, it’s a little harsh in a bong, the biggest ones that died standing is curing and has a hay smell humidity is 63-65 in the jars, maybe the next batch will be better since they were all feminized from a seed bank quality genetics. I like the idea of your super soil I have a recipe I had revived from a master grower, I seen this guy grow trees with buds bigger than my head, it was amazing and I can’t wait txo give it a try... next year I’m making a super green house outside anyone like to join me. I am a welder and already have the design and engineering to be the absolute most precise feeding and energy system ever made. Here is a update on the lemon haze
Attachments
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
Looks like you got some bugs there bro. Yikes.
Johnny Lawrence
Well-Known Member
This thread is a fucking trainwreck.
Bruh, I got 6000 watts on 5 plants. All of you veteran growers should be ashamed for even trying to help these douches.
Bruh, I got 6000 watts on 5 plants. All of you veteran growers should be ashamed for even trying to help these douches.
bird mcbride
Well-Known Member
Exactly my sediments...but he's outside.
kgp
Well-Known Member
Sweep the leg, Johnny.
JayBio420
Well-Known Member
I’m going to assume he meant 6x 1000watt equivalent LED... probably 200watt units at the plug.
jimihendrix1
Well-Known Member
Going by Tissue Analysis, NO Guessing... and from a company that has been making.. PLANT SPECIFIC FERTILIZER SINCE THE 70S, and have been making fertilizer in general since the 1960s.
The company is Hydro Gardens-Chem Gro
First off they say research says MJ likes 2x the amount of Potassium vs Nitrogen.
19.5-20-39
Base formula is 4-20-39.
Add in 15.5-0-0 Calcium Nitrate as a base formula, and slightly increase the PPM of Everything up until the 6th week, in an 8 Weeks Flowering strain.
Also added Epsom Salts-Mg Sulfate
Chem Gro says to boost with MPK in weeks 3-4 at Budset, and in weeks 5-6 they are boosted with Epsom Salts.. Sulfur helps finish out the terpene profile. All the while the Base 19.5-20-20/Epsom Salts is SLIGHTLY INCREASING.
In weeks 7-8 all nutrients are Slightly backed off.
Obviously with Organic you don't do this, and if you check into Swami Living Organic Soil, Korean Natural Farming you will have all the nutrients necessary to do the same thing.
Ive also used Peruvian Seabird Guanos.. Both Veg/Flowering formulas, Azomite, Bioactivator, Kelp, Sphagnum Moss, Calcitic/Dolomitie Lime. 1 part Calcitic to 2 Parts Dolomitic, Perlite-Vermiculite, Biochar, Oyster Shells.
The company is Hydro Gardens-Chem Gro
First off they say research says MJ likes 2x the amount of Potassium vs Nitrogen.
19.5-20-39
Base formula is 4-20-39.
Add in 15.5-0-0 Calcium Nitrate as a base formula, and slightly increase the PPM of Everything up until the 6th week, in an 8 Weeks Flowering strain.
Also added Epsom Salts-Mg Sulfate
Chem Gro says to boost with MPK in weeks 3-4 at Budset, and in weeks 5-6 they are boosted with Epsom Salts.. Sulfur helps finish out the terpene profile. All the while the Base 19.5-20-20/Epsom Salts is SLIGHTLY INCREASING.
In weeks 7-8 all nutrients are Slightly backed off.
Obviously with Organic you don't do this, and if you check into Swami Living Organic Soil, Korean Natural Farming you will have all the nutrients necessary to do the same thing.
Ive also used Peruvian Seabird Guanos.. Both Veg/Flowering formulas, Azomite, Bioactivator, Kelp, Sphagnum Moss, Calcitic/Dolomitie Lime. 1 part Calcitic to 2 Parts Dolomitic, Perlite-Vermiculite, Biochar, Oyster Shells.
Father Ramirez
Well-Known Member
Agreed