What is the best color (Kelvin) for short and bushy growth?

ElBarto

Well-Known Member
6500k (aka Full Spectrum Daylight) are the best for vegetative growth.

Keep them 1-2" from the plant to minimize stretch.

Internodal distance is a factor of (1) quantity of light and (2) genetics. The light wavelength isn't a big factor.
 

Shredder111

Well-Known Member
6500k (aka Full Spectrum Daylight) are the best for vegetative growth.

Keep them 1-2" from the plant to minimize stretch.

Internodal distance is a factor of (1) quantity of light and (2) genetics. The light wavelength isn't a big factor.
I have wanted to ask this for a long time, but how does a bulb with 2700K grow vs. 6500K? What is the difference and why is one used for flowering and the other for veg? Can 2700K be used for veg? Will there be any ill effects?
 

T.H.Cammo

Well-Known Member
I have wanted to ask this for a long time, but how does a bulb with 2700K grow vs. 6500K? What is the difference and why is one used for flowering and the other for veg? Can 2700K be used for veg? Will there be any ill effects?
You raise an interesting question! I have pondered that too (but never really tried it). I have always just assumed that it would be about the same as using either Metal Halide -or- High Pressure Sodium all the way through a whole grow (not really equal, but do to the fact that they are of different spectra - one leaning more towards the blue and the other towards the red). Obviousely they both work for both purposes - so why should 6.5K and 2.7K flourescents be any different?

I believe that 6,500K flouros (or MH) work better for vegging and 2,700K flouros (or HPS) work better for flowering. But either one should work, at least, ok - and a combination should work even better ("2 or 3 to 1" and then reverse the ratio "1 to 2 or 3" for flowering. MH lights and 6,500K flouros are skewed more to the blue part of the spectrum - more similar to mid-spring through mid-summer sunlight. Whereas HPS lights and 2,700K flouros are skewed more to the red part of the spectrum - similar to late summer through fall sunlight (it has something to do with the way the Earth tilts on it's axis - I don't want to get too technical, it gives me a fuckin' headache!).

If you are just trying to eliminate the Daylight Flouros (6,500K) all together, i can understand why. I seem to catch good deals on 23 watt, 2.700K CFL's all the time (about a buck apiece in a 4-pak), but those 6,500K CFL's are always at least 3 bucks a pop!
 

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
You raise an interesting question! I have pondered that too (but never really tried it). I have always just assumed that it would be about the same as using either Metal Halide -or- High Pressure Sodium all the way through a whole grow (not really equal, but do to the fact that they are of different spectra - one leaning more towards the blue and the other towards the red). Obviousely they both work for both purposes - so why should 6.5K and 2.7K flourescents be any different?

I believe that 6,500K flouros (or MH) work better for vegging and 2,700K flouros (or HPS) work better for flowering. But either one should work, at least, ok - and a combination should work even better ("2 or 3 to 1" and then reverse the ratio "1 to 2 or 3" for flowering. MH lights and 6,500K flouros are skewed more to the blue part of the spectrum - more similar to mid-spring through mid-summer sunlight. Whereas HPS lights and 2,700K flouros are skewed more to the red part of the spectrum - similar to late summer through fall sunlight (it has something to do with the way the Earth tilts on it's axis - I don't want to get too technical, it gives me a fuckin' headache!).

If you are just trying to eliminate the Daylight Flouros (6,500K) all together, i can understand why. I seem to catch good deals on 23 watt, 2.700K CFL's all the time (about a buck apiece in a 4-pak), but those 6,500K CFL's are always at least 3 bucks a pop!
Where have you found HPS 2700k bulbs??? At best I have only found 2300k!. In cfl' I have found various kelvin bulbs from 2100-2700k but not in any HPS. Thanks for links if you have found some.
 

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
any cool white like around 5000-6500 k

makes a short squat plant

ask any local noob ...lol

good luck
Yeah this guy is correct. I've read loads about colours and short stems and bush is 5k up but I don' know.if.there is a difference between 6500 and 7500 for example. I know to much blue hinders growth lol
 

vostok

Well-Known Member
Yeah this guy is correct. I've read loads about colours and short stems and bush is 5k up but I don' know.if.there is a difference between 6500 and 7500 for example. I know to much blue hinders growth lol
1000 kelvin bluer

more like summer sky blue

good luck
 

SchmoeJoe

Well-Known Member
Hi, did this product work for what you said it would?
Bushmaster uses a pgr. Don't use it. Besides being a pgr it's only meant to limit the stretch during the beginning of flowering. If you want to get dense and bushy vegetative growth you should start by looking into how temperature differential (tdif) affects growth.

Also use more of an all purpose NPK ratio. As far as light spectrum the best overall growth will come from full soectrsp light including UV. The actual K rating could be anywhere from 3k to around 6500k. Go to the Eye Hortilux site and check out the PowerVeg bulb.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Arcadia aquatics in the Uk supply a blue flourescent called freshwater, a red called tropical and a full spectrum calked plant pro. The lights are tri phosphor so contain some of all spectrum but are weighted in one i.e. blue or red.

Blue activates certain photoreceptors that keep plants shorter and stockier where as red dosent and has its own set for other stuff like idk.

It couldnt get simpler, cmh are more full spectrum but weighted to blue or red and hps is red with a touch of blue.

All light does the same thing, still get stretchy plants with pure blue light, quantity is a factor and the fuller the spectrum the bettet.

That said blue flouros and red hps do just fine as would just one on its own for the whole grow...
 

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
Arcadia aquatics in the Uk supply a blue flourescent called freshwater, a red called tropical and a full spectrum calked plant pro. The lights are tri phosphor so contain some of all spectrum but are weighted in one i.e. blue or red.

Blue activates certain photoreceptors that keep plants shorter and stockier where as red dosent and has its own set for other stuff like idk.

It couldnt get simpler, cmh are more full spectrum but weighted to blue or red and hps is red with a touch of blue.

All light does the same thing, still get stretchy plants with pure blue light, quantity is a factor and the fuller the spectrum the bettet.

That said blue flouros and red hps do just fine as would just one on its own for the whole grow...
MIGRO Irish LED developers say you need 12-20% blue depending on watts. Anything over 100w you need 12-15% blue to prevent stretching but anything over I think it was 60% but don'
Quote me on that is almost the same as all blue lights and will hinder some production and cause stretching but less fruits and blooms. You should check MIGRO out. I know 7500 is 1000 more blue then 6500 but I.mean is there any signifiant state in growth changes or does it end at a certain point where colour is no longer a growth booster and just causes stretches....

Red also enhances root development in major ways. Also it increases dry weight and yield but at the cost of poor leaves and stems strengh. It' weak and flimsy. Go check MIGRO and watch the sessions of all blue grown, all red grown and full spectrum. It' quite interesting.
 

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
Bushmaster uses a pgr. What's a "PGR" ??? Never heard of this but im new to this .....

"If you want to get dense and bushy vegetative growth you should start by looking into how temperature differential (tdif) affects growth, this I will Google but your the first one I have heard say that so far and out of all the You tube videos I've watched so maybe worth a look".
 
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