What do you think I need?

AllenHaze · Oct 9, 2014

Hey RIU. How's everyone's harvest's going? :grin:

Anyway, I'm mixing up some soil with ingredients I have on hand.
Base soil is 50/50 recycled amended soil and new happy frog. To this I added:
Kelp, bone and blood meals, dolomitic lime, burnt eggshell powder, kitchen scrap worm castings (worm bin was fed kelp, rock phosphates, rock dust & eggshell powder as well), rock phosphates, glacial rock dust, green sand, K mag, oatmeal powder, diatomaceous earth. I generally water with tea and occasional molasses.
Does anyone anticipate an issue with this mix?
Do you have suggestions to improve upon it?
Do you think the WC will cover me for humic acids and free up any need for fulvic acid amendments? :joint:

AllenHaze · Oct 10, 2014

Pattahabi · Oct 10, 2014

Personally, I think you need this:

ROLS Thread

I'm not being a smartass, I just think you have a laundry list of items which you are probably not sure why you are adding them. In addition, we don't know what is in the amended soil, and you don't have amount of amendments per cu ft' or gal.

Peace!
P-

AllenHaze · Oct 10, 2014

Pattahabi said:
Personally, I think you need this:

ROLS Thread

I'm not being a smartass, I just think you have a laundry list of items which you are probably not sure why you are adding them. In addition, we don't know what is in the amended soil, and you don't have amount of amendments per cu ft' or gal.

Peace!
P-

The amended soil has the same ingredients except they've been depleted during an 8-10 week flower. The following is an excerpt from my grow log that details the previous ingredients and so forth - including an update from a month later:
3/15/14 Mixed a permanent veg mix. I'll be using this for the next couple grows, so long as the bags don't turn sour. 1 part Happy frog to one part sunshine mix #4 came to about 15 lbs of mix [about 6 gallons]. To this I added 8tbs blood/bone meal each. 12tbs kelp meal. 12tbs eggshell powder, 12 tbs diatomaceous earth, 8tbs dolomitic lime, 6tbs ground oatmeal powder. Sprayed down to get slightly moist. Some plants where transplanted directly into this mix and watered with 1tbs big bloom//1/4tsp superthrive/1tbs molasses: 1 gallon water - these would be the two lemon pre-mother clones and the tw clone. UPDATE 4/11/14 These two lemon clones are absolutely loving their new soil mix. They are looking more lush then any of my other's have ever looked.

I haven't had an issues with the mix, as you can see from the log entry, the girls loved it. I know what the ingredients are for - that would be why I purchased them so not sure where the misunderstanding came from. My current used mix is essentially the same, with the addition of rock phosphates, rock dust, green sand and extra WC (used up during an 8-10 week flower again). I've spent a considerable amount of time browsing through the rols thread and I've found a few good things - the thing about threads that are that long is that it becomes a tedious activity to follow along and a lot of it is insignificant dialogue that doesn't pertain to my inquiries.

I can admit that my ratios are likely off and my trace minerals are high. That is mostly a result of varying recipes and the comfort of organics (it's fairly difficult to screw things up). I really don't feel I needed to post all that though. Assuming that everything is in order with the mix the questions were simple enough.

Pattahabi · Oct 10, 2014

AllenHaze said:
The amended soil has the same ingredients except they've been depleted during an 8-10 week flower. The following is an excerpt from my grow log that details the previous ingredients and so forth - including an update from a month later:
3/15/14 Mixed a permanent veg mix. I'll be using this for the next couple grows, so long as the bags don't turn sour. 1 part Happy frog to one part sunshine mix #4 came to about 15 lbs of mix [about 6 gallons]. To this I added 8tbs blood/bone meal each. 12tbs kelp meal. 12tbs eggshell powder, 12 tbs diatomaceous earth, 8tbs dolomitic lime, 6tbs ground oatmeal powder. Sprayed down to get slightly moist. Some plants where transplanted directly into this mix and watered with 1tbs big bloom//1/4tsp superthrive/1tbs molasses: 1 gallon water - these would be the two lemon pre-mother clones and the tw clone. UPDATE 4/11/14 These two lemon clones are absolutely loving their new soil mix. They are looking more lush then any of my other's have ever looked.

I haven't had an issues with the mix, as you can see from the log entry, the girls loved it. I know what the ingredients are for - that would be why I purchased them so not sure where the misunderstanding came from. My current used mix is essentially the same, with the addition of rock phosphates, rock dust, green sand and extra WC (used up during an 8-10 week flower again). I've spent a considerable amount of time browsing through the rols thread and I've found a few good things - the thing about threads that are that long is that it becomes a tedious activity to follow along and a lot of it is insignificant dialogue that doesn't pertain to my inquiries.

I can admit that my ratios are likely off and my trace minerals are high. That is mostly a result of varying recipes and the comfort of organics (it's fairly difficult to screw things up). I really don't feel I needed to post all that though. Assuming that everything is in order with the mix the questions were simple enough.

So you're not actually even growing organically. Superthrive is far from organic, and you're dumping fox farm crap on your soil. Are You using pH up/down?

This is what I see:

1 part Happy frog to one part sunshine mix #4 [about 6 gallons] = 6 gallons peat & perlite

To this I added:

8tbs blood/bone meal each = 1/2c Blood meal & 1/2c Bone meal

12tbs kelp meal. = 3/4c kelp

12tbs eggshell powder, n/a

12 tbs diatomaceous earth, why?

8tbs dolomitic lime, 1/2c Dolo Lime

6tbs ground oatmeal powder - again why?

high points: you used kelp appropriately

So what I see is this, you’re no where near the suggested 33%humic material/33%sphagnum/33%aeration, no CEC, no rock dust, no crab meal, no neem meal, and then you limed material that is already limed. Are you using a mulch on your pots? Are you using pH up/down?

Why is this important? If you missed the boat on the humic material there is all kinds of wonky stuff going on with your soil. Much of which could appear as not having nutrients.

So this is the deal, if you missed how important the humic material was in the ROLS thread, and these other things, I’m going to again suggest you go back and read the rols thread. Cuss me out, call me names, but in the end if you really read it and do a little more non-canna board reading you will grow better pot then any of your buddies hands down.

P-

AllenHaze · Oct 11, 2014

I don't think you read my my entire post. Just an observation. Also not a dick, just a guy.

Diatomaceous earth is for pest control (had an issue a few months back and have been using it ever since as a precaution) and silica.

Oatmeal powder is for the fungi. I only add OM powder in my flowering recipes.

I am 99% organic. I don't claim to be 100% but if something is 99% I'll call it by that and not the 1%.

Super thrive and Microbe brew are used very sparingly and generally only after the soil has dried to the point that I want to repopulate + reduce stress if I do not have tea ready.

Big bloom is organic and I've had great results with it. I will be retiring it after it runs out though because I make something very similar of my own now.

Why did you put N/A (not applicable) after Eggshell powder (burnt)?

Why would I need pH up or down? You should know that those aren't organic. ;-)

I have plenty of humic acids in my WC / Vermicompost. The opening question was if that would be enough.

My ratio of WC to soil is about 1:4 - however I am using Happy Frog which is loaded with humus.

Why would I need crab meal If I don't need chitin eating microbes atm or a pH buffer? No pest problems. I have lime and eggshell powder.

I said you didn't read my post, because I mentioned that my current recipe includes rock phosphate, ROCK DUST, and green sand.

You're patronization is slightly egregious. It's okay because when you're dealing with people incapable of simple comprehension on a regular basis, you get used to treating people like they are clueless. It can be a hard habit to shake - this I am familiar with.

I own several books on horticulture and soil biology including the ever popular "Teaming with microbes" as well as: Cannabis evolution and ethnobotany, hemp diseases and pests, composting for dummies, marijuana botany, marijuana chemistry, organic mj soma style. I could go on but I'm sure you get my point, that I'm not some pretentious twit. I mean, Torrents?

Why would I cuss you out? Am I missing something?

Why would you suggest that I missed how important humic acid was? The information is everywhere. Kind of like assuming I don't know the sky is generally blue. My opening question was if the humic acid in my WC would be enough and if it would eliminate the need to purchase fulvic acids for better results.

Hope I was able to clarify for you. :peace:

Pattahabi · Oct 11, 2014

AllenHaze said:
I don't think you read my my entire post. Just an observation. Also not a dick, just a guy.

Diatomaceous earth is for pest control (had an issue a few months back and have been using it ever since as a precaution) and silica.

Oatmeal powder is for the fungi. I only add OM powder in my flowering recipes.

I am 99% organic. I don't claim to be 100% but if something is 99% I'll call it by that and not the 1%.

Super thrive and Microbe brew are used very sparingly and generally only after the soil has dried to the point that I want to repopulate + reduce stress if I do not have tea ready.

Big bloom is organic and I've had great results with it. I will be retiring it after it runs out though because I make something very similar of my own now.

Why did you put N/A (not applicable) after Eggshell powder (burnt)?

Why would I need pH up or down? You should know that those aren't organic.

I have plenty of humic acids in my WC / Vermicompost. The opening question was if that would be enough.

My ratio of WC to soil is about 1:4 - however I am using Happy Frog which is loaded with humus.

Why would I need crab meal If I don't need chitin eating microbes atm or a pH buffer? No pest problems. I have lime and eggshell powder.

I said you didn't read my post, because I mentioned that my current recipe includes rock phosphate, ROCK DUST, and green sand.

You're patronization is slightly egregious. It's okay because when you're dealing with people incapable of simple comprehension on a regular basis, you get used to treating people like they are clueless. It can be a hard habit to shake - this I am familiar with.

I own several books on horticulture and soil biology including the ever popular "Teaming with microbes" as well as: Cannabis evolution and ethnobotany, hemp diseases and pests, composting for dummies, marijuana botany, marijuana chemistry, organic mj soma style. I could go on but I'm sure you get my point, that I'm not some pretentious twit. I mean, Torrents?

Why would I cuss you out? Am I missing something?

Why would you suggest that I missed how important humic acid was? The information is everywhere. Kind of like assuming I don't know the sky is generally blue. My opening question was if the humic acid in my WC would be enough and if it would eliminate the need to purchase fulvic acids for better results.

Hope I was able to clarify for you.

HUMUS NOT HUMIC ACID. Diatomaceous earth isn't a pest deterrent when it is moist pointless. Blood meal and bone meal slaughter house byproducts yum yum, fungal/bacteria dominant is pointless the rhizosphere controls this, Superthrive is effin banned in states real good stuff, big bloom is nothing you want to add to your soil - don't make me go there, my point about the rock dust is it wasn't added in the first place which means you probably need to read some of those book sitting on your shelf.

But you're totally right, let's see how this routine works out for you.

Peace!
P-

AllenHaze · Oct 12, 2014

Pattahabi said:
Diatomaceous earth isn't a pest deterrent when it is moist pointless.

True. However, I did mention that I also use it for it's silica content and trace minerals.

Pattahabi said:
HUMUS NOT HUMIC ACID

Humus contains humic acid - amongst other things. :wink:

Pattahabi said:
Blood meal and bone meal slaughter house byproducts yum yum-

I agree.. I have used rock phosphate in increasingly higher ratios as I wean from the slaughter house byproducts. If you check some of my other posts, you'll find I am trying to evolve towards a more veganic approach. This goes for the super thrive as well. While they are here I'll use them up.

Pattahabi said:
my point about the rock dust is it wasn't added in the first place which means you probably need to read some of those book sitting on your shelf.

I was unable to afford the rock dust, rock phosphate and green sand at the time. I was pretty disappointed. The books are not on a shelf, they are on my kindle. Torrents?

Pattahabi said:
fungal/bacteria dominant is pointless the rhizosphere controls this

Yes. When the time comes for the rhizosphere to promote the growth of fungi (P) during flowering I like the omp to be there. I'm sure it could stay or go but for the time being I will continue to use it.

Pattahabi said:
But you're totally right, let's see how this routine works out for you.
Peace!
P-

Thanks. The routine has already worked for me. I was looking for a second opinion on the assumption that everything is in order with the mix (ratios and what not). It was a stoned inquiry. I was asking that, if something did go wrong what might that be so I could better anticipate it. I'm sure the wc would be enough on top of the humus in the HF. I'm sure I won't need to use fulvic acids because the WC should have me covered. This is what I think. I was looking for what others thought. A collective opinion. Thanks again. :peace:

What do you think I need?

AllenHaze

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Pattahabi

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AllenHaze

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