Weird raised burnt edges and tips

ComfortCreator

Well-Known Member
Tying up your branches is a normal and expected task and means they are getting heavier, so don't be upset that part is going well. Its typical anywhere from week 5 onwards, and varies a lot depending upon the strain and training.

It is so rare to see a thread where someone has too much N all the way through.

Are you clear on the roles of N P and K in your mix? To me it appears the ONLY problem you have here!
 

Nilspoulsen

Active Member
I don’t think you really are making a good faith effort to correct the issue and you certainly aren’t going to be able to reverse the issues
So I’ll ask again
Did you do anything to increase light?
You’re probably right- sorry for being the deadbeat grower on the forum lol.
I actually moved up the light like half an inch because I didn’t want the plant to get stressed out but I guess that was an uneducated decision I don’t know.
I just lowered them about an inch but they can definitely still get closer so maybe I’ll slowly bring them down
 

Nilspoulsen

Active Member
You didn't say how much runoff.

If you're only getting a teeny amt of runoff, i suspect you're getting nutrients/salts built up. My suggestion is a slightly lower concentration of your nutrients and do a fertigation-flush, run a bunch thru and I bet that'll put everything back on track
I’d say it’s substantial runoff every single watering unless there’s not much left in the bucket
 

Nilspoulsen

Active Member
Tying up your branches is a normal and expected task and means they are getting heavier, so don't be upset that part is going well. Its typical anywhere from week 5 onwards, and varies a lot depending upon the strain and training.

It is so rare to see a thread where someone has too much N all the way through.

Are you clear on the roles of N P and K in your mix? To me it appears the ONLY problem you have here!
Yeah I’m pretty clear on the roles of the NPK there’s a part A which is straight N and then the part B is just P&K instructions say to give it even amount of both but have started to give more part B than A
 

McShnutz

Well-Known Member
Yeah I’m pretty clear on the roles of the NPK there’s a part A which is straight N and then the part B is just P&K instructions say to give it even amount of both but have started to give more part B than A
Your over feeding. I've used my fair share of pH perfect sensi grow, sensi coco and connoisseur in the past. pH perfect "technology", is nothing more thsn chelation. Im sure its not a Advanced Nutrients exclusive. If your coco based your schedule should be feed water feed.
Peat based is feed water water feed.
Always have 1/3ish runoff. Don't allow standing runoff.

Part A is your Magnesium Nitrate, Calcium Nitrate, and chelation to assist in a broader nutrient absorption range, pH.

I don't recall your water source or quality, but I'm quite certain your Calcium levels are too high, and very clearly your Nitrogen, hence the dark leaves. Too much Calcium inhibits the uptake of Potassium, even though Potassium is present and abundant.
This is why your sugar leaves are yellowing. It's not showing as much in the older fan leaves because of your high levels of N, Calcium and Magnesium and increased uptake of iron. Also another drawback of excessive chelation.

Someone suggested to do a flush with a mild nutrient charge. Good advise right there. You don't want to lower the nutrient too much with in the coco that you now have amplified deficiencies. Plus salt attracts salts, so a mild nutrient charged flush will actually correct the problem quickly by attracting more accumulated salts as it passes through the substrate. Getting you to your target EC more efficiently.

Lastly with any bottled nutrient I've learned to cut the dosing recommendations in half.
If the plant can take more then change your feed schedule to feeding daily rather than feed water feed. Environment and light are a huge factor in determining the capability of your plant to assimilate nutrient, consequently grow.
 

WannaBeeGrow

Active Member
Your over feeding. I've used my fair share of pH perfect sensi grow, sensi coco and connoisseur in the past. pH perfect "technology", is nothing more thsn chelation. Im sure its not a Advanced Nutrients exclusive. If your coco based your schedule should be feed water feed.
Peat based is feed water water feed.
Always have 1/3ish runoff. Don't allow standing runoff.

Part A is your Magnesium Nitrate, Calcium Nitrate, and chelation to assist in a broader nutrient absorption range, pH.

I don't recall your water source or quality, but I'm quite certain your Calcium levels are too high, and very clearly your Nitrogen, hence the dark leaves. Too much Calcium inhibits the uptake of Potassium, even though Potassium is present and abundant.
This is why your sugar leaves are yellowing. It's not showing as much in the older fan leaves because of your high levels of N, Calcium and Magnesium and increased uptake of iron. Also another drawback of excessive chelation.

Someone suggested to do a flush with a mild nutrient charge. Good advise right there. You don't want to lower the nutrient too much with in the coco that you now have amplified deficiencies. Plus salt attracts salts, so a mild nutrient charged flush will actually correct the problem quickly by attracting more accumulated salts as it passes through the substrate. Getting you to your target EC more efficiently.

Lastly with any bottled nutrient I've learned to cut the dosing recommendations in half.
If the plant can take more then change your feed schedule to feeding daily rather than feed water feed. Environment and light are a huge factor in determining the capability of your plant to assimilate nutrient, consequently grow.
I am also using more part B due to consistently low pH of full line of AN. When diluted with equal amount of water the EC is 1200. pH, supposedly, goes to 5.7 to 6.2. Think my nutes are watered down!
 

WannaBeeGrow

Active Member
I am also using more part B due to consistently low pH of full line of AN. When diluted with equal amount of water the EC is 1200. pH, supposedly, goes to 5.7 to 6.2. Think my nutes are watered down!
Forgot to say that the pH of my nutes was always 5.4. Now it is 6 to 6.2 depending on the amount of additional Base B.
 

Nilspoulsen

Active Member
Got some nasty fox tailing that started because I put the plant through hell.
Just want to know what I should do moving forward to get the most density possible on the buds.
Start flushing
Keep feeding? And for how long
Feeding 950 EC right now and I’m ver the last week or two have been moving lights closer as per some suggestions
73380FE9-A215-47A1-B489-7E8FBB89B856.jpegB08D3960-8271-4B42-B901-DF634CC3BB4F.jpeg
 

Attachments

Nilspoulsen

Active Member
Your over feeding. I've used my fair share of pH perfect sensi grow, sensi coco and connoisseur in the past. pH perfect "technology", is nothing more thsn chelation. Im sure its not a Advanced Nutrients exclusive. If your coco based your schedule should be feed water feed.
Peat based is feed water water feed.
Always have 1/3ish runoff. Don't allow standing runoff.

Part A is your Magnesium Nitrate, Calcium Nitrate, and chelation to assist in a broader nutrient absorption range, pH.

I don't recall your water source or quality, but I'm quite certain your Calcium levels are too high, and very clearly your Nitrogen, hence the dark leaves. Too much Calcium inhibits the uptake of Potassium, even though Potassium is present and abundant.
This is why your sugar leaves are yellowing. It's not showing as much in the older fan leaves because of your high levels of N, Calcium and Magnesium and increased uptake of iron. Also another drawback of excessive chelation.

Someone suggested to do a flush with a mild nutrient charge. Good advise right there. You don't want to lower the nutrient too much with in the coco that you now have amplified deficiencies. Plus salt attracts salts, so a mild nutrient charged flush will actually correct the problem quickly by attracting more accumulated salts as it passes through the substrate. Getting you to your target EC more efficiently.

Lastly with any bottled nutrient I've learned to cut the dosing recommendations in half.
If the plant can take more then change your feed schedule to feeding daily rather than feed water feed. Environment and light are a huge factor in determining the capability of your plant to assimilate nutrient, consequently grow.
Makes sense. I should definitely start feeding every other water then. My water is RO water that reads 2ppm on the tds meter after I run it through the RO system
 

ComfortCreator

Well-Known Member
Got some nasty fox tailing that started because I put the plant through hell.
Just want to know what I should do moving forward to get the most density possible on the buds.
Start flushing
Keep feeding? And for how long
Feeding 950 EC right now and I’m ver the last week or two have been moving lights closer as per some suggestions
View attachment 5126457View attachment 5126461
Disagree!

You have a healthy maturing plant with no foxtailing.
The flowers swell as they ripen and that is what is going on.
Few weeks and done.

It ain't broke...nothing to fix. Continue exactly as before, feed slightly less if anything.
 

Nilspoulsen

Active Member
Trimming the tree today and one or the bigger nugs had mold on the very inside. Threw away that whole cola but is the rest okay for consumption assuming none of the others show any mold?
 

Kerowacked

Well-Known Member
Trimming the tree today and one or the bigger nugs had mold on the very inside. Threw away that whole cola but is the rest okay for consumption assuming none of the others show any mold?
I wash the buds after chop. Quart or liter of 3% peroxide in four or five gallons of water. Dunk them a couple times then soak in freshwater for a couple minutes before hang drying. Baking soda and lemon juice is another common wash mix but i like peroxide.
 
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