Weird burn but run off and ph is fine. Week 6 Autoflower

SupremeBudDrongo

Active Member
If you're talking about lifting the rootball out of the pot and all the roots at the bottom of the ball are dead looking and maybe stinky? then that's a different story.

That could very well be root rot which is usually caused by overwatering, (which is different than soaking the pot good when you water), by watering too often because it's dry two knuckles deep at the top. As you are in that coco/perlite mix it should be wet all the time as opposed to peat that works best with a wet/dry cycle but not bone dry so the plants droop.

If it has a dead stuff smell to it then I'd use a bread knife and cut the bottom third of teh root ball of and put it in a clean pot the same if you have it with fresh medium on the bottom to keep it at the right height. Water it good so the new stuff ready for new roots. Good time to use a myco product like DynoMyco sprinkled liberally all over the top of the new medium in the out and sprayed to moisten it. I spray the bottom of the rootball too and will even sprinkle some myco on that.

Don't have to use stuff like that but it inoculates the roots so bad bacteria can't take hold and cause more rot.

:peace:
No smell however I cut a hole on the side of the pot carefully to see what was going on and it looks like last 1/4inch is brown (or there aren't much roots in the bottom 1/4 inch which is odd because in the drain holes there were brown roots peaking out) but rest of the pot is white. Ordered some Hydrogen peroxide 3% to sterilise the medium just incase. The Plant is HUGE one of the biggest autoflowers ive ever grown. Im talking it filled up an entire 2x2 tent in less than 6 weeks. Would be a shame if it was root rot!
 
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OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
No smell however I cut a hole on the side of the pot carefully to see what was going on and it looks like last 1/4inch is brown (or there aren't much roots in the bottom 1/4 inch which is odd because in the drain holes there were brown roots peaking out) but rest of the pot is white. Ordered some Hydrogen peroxide 3% to sterilise the medium just incase. The Plant is HUGE one of the biggest autoflowers ive ever grown. Im talking it filled up an entire 2x2 tent in less than 6 weeks. Would be a shame if it was root rot!
3% can work but has preservatives in it so I get 35% and dilute it at 0.5ml/L in DWC to prevent root rot but have used it at 6 - 8ml/L when fighting root rot. 4ml/L would work best to not go overboard but water from the bottom if you do it. No need to soak the whole pot with it.

I see tan looking roots at the bottom of pots but don't worry about it unless the plant seems to be suffering. Rot usually has a definite nasty smell to it up close. Dig some out and take a whiff.

:peace:
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
My Setup -

Coco Perlite 70/30
Canna COCO a+b
Feeding @300ppm +200ppm calmag.
This is coco coir though if I stop calmag those deficiencies are almost a guarantee???
You are using a nutrient line specifically formulated for use with coco, when growing cannabis, no? I mean, it's in the name and everything: "Canna COCO". Why would they not include ample calcium and mag in a such a formula?
 

SupremeBudDrongo

Active Member
You are using a nutrient line specifically formulated for use with coco, when growing cannabis, no? I mean, it's in the name and everything: "Canna COCO". Why would they not include ample calcium and mag in a such a formula?
Yeah but last grow I used this same nute line (Buddha Magnum auto) I got a calcium deficiency early on so thought id skip the deficiency and just supplement from the start. Apparently Buddha Purple Kush auto (this grow) doesn't need as much Calcium as Magnum does.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Yeah but last grow I used this same nute line (Buddha Magnum auto) I got a calcium deficiency early on so thought id skip the deficiency and just supplement from the start. Apparently Buddha Purple Kush auto (this grow) doesn't need as much Calcium as Magnum does.
That's probably because your feed level is so low. You said that you're feeding 300ppm of Canna Coco plus 200 ppm of CalMag? I'd probably just hit it with 600ppm of Canna Coco and skip the CalMag.
 

Scuzzman

Well-Known Member
typical , post a question and dont listen to answers , if you know everything why ask,you end up looking like a right dick- people have told you advised and offered help and you have an answer for everything sounds like ex wife
 
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Scuzzman

Well-Known Member
4 th time I have posted this on this forum - use the search function all the answers you want are there for this brand of nutrients.

Cana 0.JPG

Canna 1.JPG

Cana 3.JPG

Coco 2.JPG

Pretty basic really- alter to suit what the plants tell you, the calmag -not required if using tap water( in Aussie and NZ they all add cal-mag to water supply) if you really have to I would only use 5 mls per 10 ltrs.. once or twice only
 

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SupremeBudDrongo

Active Member
typical , post a question and dont listen to answers , if you know everything why ask,you end up looking like a right dick- people have told you advised and offered help and you have an answer for everything sounds like ex wife
Dont get too uppity. I asked a question and was advised by @OldMedUser to cutoff calcium which ive done. Im not going to do everything you say at once because that's not how you diagnose a problem whether it be a plant or a car or an electrical grid. If you change too many variables at once not only can you make a problem worse, even if you fix the problem how will one know what fixed the issue?. Once its been 3-5 days after calcium cut off THEN I will proceed with other changes. So there is an order to this.
 

SupremeBudDrongo

Active Member
That's probably because your feed level is so low. You said that you're feeding 300ppm of Canna Coco plus 200 ppm of CalMag? I'd probably just hit it with 600ppm of Canna Coco and skip the CalMag.
My next step will be to up the EC after maybe 3 or 4 more days. Dont want to make too many changes all at once.
 

SupremeBudDrongo

Active Member
3% can work but has preservatives in it so I get 35% and dilute it at 0.5ml/L in DWC to prevent root rot but have used it at 6 - 8ml/L when fighting root rot. 4ml/L would work best to not go overboard but water from the bottom if you do it. No need to soak the whole pot with it.

I see tan looking roots at the bottom of pots but don't worry about it unless the plant seems to be suffering. Rot usually has a definite nasty smell to it up close. Dig some out and take a whiff.

:peace:
Quick update! Finally Seeing tops growing again. You are an absolute legend mate cutting off calcium seems to have made a big difference. Not sure if im completely out of murky waters just yet however things are looking good again after about 1.5 weeks of miserable growth. Thanks for your wisdom.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Quick update! Finally Seeing tops growing again. You are an absolute legend mate cutting off calcium seems to have made a big difference. Not sure if im completely out of murky waters just yet however things are looking good again after about 1.5 weeks of miserable growth. Thanks for your wisdom.
Thanks. Once you've done 10,000 hrs on a subject it's supposed to make you an expert. I've done way more than that and still don't know half. :)

I like that Cervantes chart I'll leave here. I cut out each pic on the chart so I can post one or more separate. You got to play detective and read the clues around the pics to try to nail the problem. Sometimes it's just a shitty plant tho too.

Look at clue #7. Slow growth. I thought about how much calmag you were using in comparison to a pretty low level of nutes and Ca popped up. Easier to OD on Ca than Mg then at the bottom left you see that too much Ca blocks other shit that shows other symptoms and confuses the diagnosis. Cutting out Ca for a time just seemed logical.

Plus I've grown a hella lot of plants and had every shit thing happen possible by now. Now I jinxed it something new will show up. :D

Calcium.jpg

Save the chart for future reference.

CervantesNutrientChart.jpg

:peace:
 

SupremeBudDrongo

Active Member
stop the calmag not needed, PH 6.0 -6.4 - feed every water , feed approx 600-700ppm/1.2 i-1.5sh EC.... dont need to check run off dude thats bro rubbish
Few days later upped EC to 700ppm. Bud sites are growing up very well but lower leaves are shrivelling & still dropping off. Run off ppm is ~470ppm. Which is ~220 ppm less than input. Presume increase notes to 900ppm?
 

Scuzzman

Well-Known Member
no , autos do not need strong nutrients keep feeding lite and they will be fine- leaves are fine so long as buds are bulking up- dont do run off it will screw with your head -
 

SupremeBudDrongo

Active Member
no , autos do not need strong nutrients keep feeding lite and they will be fine- leaves are fine so long as buds are bulking up- dont do run off it will screw with your head -
Yeah not sure what else to do at this point. The plant has gotten so big that it doesn't fit in my 2x2 tent anymore. a 1/4 of the canopy isnt getting enough light because its gotten so huge that to get the light to hit these bud sites id have to remove the carbon filter. Guess ill keep feeding 700 and order a 3x3. If this keeps up within another 3-4 days bud sites will hit the roof. THIS IS AFTER TOPPING THE PLANT at the 3rd node btw which is insane..
 

Scuzzman

Well-Known Member
strip the bottom 1/2 - you should have 3 x tiers of buds growing + cola ( pretty std on autos ), strip the larf and rubbish off in the center let the light in and air move- dont need to top autos
 
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