Water quality and calmag

Atomizer said:
I would say yes because the plants will make use of the calcium and nitrate during veg. Nitric controls the ph and provide useful nutrients for no cost. Phos will control the ph but adds nothing particularly useful to the plants.
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What concentration nitric acid do you use?
 
Atomizer said:
I would say yes because the plants will make use of the calcium and nitrate during veg. Nitric controls the ph and provide useful nutrients for no cost. Phos will control the ph but adds nothing particularly useful to the plants.

Look around for this stuff, it can be had for as little as £6.50 a litre.
https://www.somhydro.co.uk/products/dutch-pro-ph-down-grow
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Thanks for that I’ll get it strange though the government website specifically says any concentration above 3% nitric acid is illegal to sell to the public...

When using nitric acid and in my DWC res I use a compost tea which includes nitrifying bacteria will it cause my ph to swing constantly? As I think the bacteria will remove the hydrogen bond from the acid causing the ph reducing effect to no longer happen
 
George2324 said:
Cheers I’ll get some Epsom salt as a backup just incase on the next run around.

Is it beneficial to use nitric acid instead of phosphoric acid in veg or should I just stick to phophuric?
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and the sulfur in epsom salts really helps with smells and tastes too. most nutes don't have it.
 
George2324 said:
Thanks for that I’ll get it strange though the government website specifically says any concentration above 3% nitric acid is illegal to sell to the public...

When using nitric acid and in my DWC res I use a compost tea which includes nitrifying bacteria will it cause my ph to swing constantly? As I think the bacteria will remove the hydrogen bond from the acid causing the ph reducing effect to no longer happen
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Technically it is but i guess no one bothers to read the label. Nitrifying bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite and nitrate.
 
if i have a Mg def, i foliar spray anyway. it's faster to fix the problem. 2 good sprays in 24hrs usually fixes it.
 
rkymtnman said:
Ionic bloom is a start to finish nute. it's a good one. @Carolina Dream'n do you need cal/mg with your Ionic?

see what he says.
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Interesting so I don’t need ionic grow?

I was planning on ordering the ionic grow and ionic bloom... it’s the same price so won’t make it any cheaper if I don’t get one but I guess one less bottle to mess about with helps
 
George2324 said:
Interesting so I don’t need ionic grow?

I was planning on ordering the ionic grow and ionic bloom... it’s the same price so won’t make it any cheaper if I don’t get one but I guess one less bottle to mess about with helps
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nope, just the bloom. shouldn't need the boost either.

see if carolina dreamin replies to this. i know he uses it start to finish and could give you some other good info too.
 
Carolina Dream'n said:
Nope. Starting with well water of .2-.3 EC. Ionic Bloom from start to finish. The npk on grow is 3-1-5 and Bloom is 3-2-6. Never saw a reason to by both and prefer the ratio Bloom has. Definitely no need for their PK boost.
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Honestly, people put too much emphasis on nutrients. Ionic blooms ratios look pretty good to take you all the way through. Temp, humudity, light and air circulation are all much bigger factors. I used to use just maxibloom with a bit of calmag all the way through with no issues whatsoever.
 
Atomizer said:
Use phosphoric acid for the bloom stage if you need to make adjustments. Ph generally falls in bloom due to the uptake of potassium (K+) and rises in veg due to uptake of nitrate (NO3-)..
Calcium sulphate is also called gypsum,which can play havoc with pumps and pipework. The solubility of calcium sulphate is around 2g/L at 20c
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My PH dropped all through flower. I was getting the feeling the plants were sucking up the K+ leaving the acid to shit the PH. I might be wrong. I know nothing about chemistry. Just seems right.
 
Alright I’ll just order the bloom then and give that a go.

In regards to the nanny state thing on the News this morning they were talking about banning live fireworks... this country is becoming more and more authoritarian every single day.
 
i use tap water with a ppm around the same as yours and i am currently doing dwc. i do not bother adding calmag and i am seeing no ill affect's from it. personally i think any time i do add calmag it puts brown spots on my leaves. when i don't use it with my tap water the spots stopped. the reason why i don't add calmag is because starting with like 180/200ppm dose not leave allot of room for nutrients before you start hitting high ppm range and start getting tip burn. its better to use your ph swing correctly at least that's what i am finding. this may be incorrect but its working good for me
 
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