Water cooled lights

DB&ST

Well-Known Member
guess it's like computers water cooling system.. not sure how easy it is to build by yourself..
 

Deerhunter617

Well-Known Member
Well I'm going to buy one I have a 50 gallon styrofoam
cooler I'm going
to use aS a res and metal pales I will fill with water and freeze in my freezer all the water cooled hoods I see online don't really have any specs
 

webb107

Well-Known Member
i have never understood why people bother with water cooling, why not just air cool it? does water cooling make a big difference?
 

Deerhunter617

Well-Known Member
Watercooling is cheaper and you get 9 to 12 the light from your bulbs you can keep a 1000w bulb 6" from your light you can't so that with An air cooled mover that's what I have now
 

DB&ST

Well-Known Member
i guess it help keeping big bulbs cool without using a big exhaust fan and a cooltube that can produce alot of noise..
 

Deerhunter617

Well-Known Member
Lol my wording damn afghan kush you get 9 to 12 times the light with a water cooled system uses less electricity you can have it 6" off the top of your canopy that's closer then you can get with a air cooled hood on a mover that's wheat I use now
 

Deerhunter617

Well-Known Member
I just trying to make sure indont know some kinda reducers or fittings that don't come with the light to hook my water line up
 

Deerhunter617

Well-Known Member
I don't know I've just got done reading a book by Ed rosenthal and he says water-cooled hoods are the shit and a sative needs a 1000w of light every 3x3 to actually get the correct amount of lumens a sq/ft because 1 big plant with the same size canopy can yield as much as 10 smaller plants with the same canopy equivellant to one big plant which is true my last plant I grew had 14.5 ozs dried one plant fewer the plants the less trouble I can get in
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
I think they can be a great idea. If this wasn't my flat like fook i'd have cut holes in the ceiling and walls :lol:

I think it should be pretty easy to make one from scratch, just a question of making sure water temps won't exceed the pumps safe running specs, insulate lots :D and make sure that all of the water around the bulb is being circulated, not just say the top 5" of water. Would be easy but not the cheapest. Something i've not read up on though, how do the lights typically cool down the water? is it through a chiller or just effective radiator? I mean if your flow rate is high enough, and your water capicty large enough, it stands to reason that you can get it running without much heat buildup in the water, and as such could get away with an old car radiator etc :lol: All depends on what you can get your hands on really. I tend to make plans, and then source specific parts and as such end up paying more than buying retail :D
 

Deerhunter617

Well-Known Member
I was just reading an older thread on here where a guy uses a heater coil out of a pickup with just a fan blowing on it Im with you if a man had a big enough pump and a big enough return line would the water ever get hot??
 

Deerhunter617

Well-Known Member
The literature I've come across says you can get up to 30% more yield with a watercooled light then my aircooled light that's alot The water doesn't filter out as much light as you think if it's on a mover 4"s above your plants IMO
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
wITHOUTH KNWOING ABOUT THEIR STUDY, I'D HAVE SAID THAT THAT 30% WOULD BE A ONE ENVIRONMENT DEAL. iN THAT WHEN THE CAB OR ROOM IS A CERTAIN WAY, THEN WATERCOOLED WOULD ALLOW CLOSER LIGHTS AND AS SUCH MORE PENETRATION AND VIOLA, MMORE BUD, BUT AT THE SAME TIME, IF YOU HAVE YOUR AREA SET UPTO YOUR DESIRE, YOU COULD HAVE THE AIRCOOLED LIGHT JUST AS CLOSE AS THE WATERCOOLD

For fucks sake, i wrote that once in capitls, went back and re wrote the damned thing in capitals again :( wish i could touch type in the proper manner that is to day reading the screen than reading your fingers.
 
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