WATER CHILLER - Expert DWC growers opinions please!!!!!!!!!

What's an appropriate chiller size. I have 3 systems total , do I need a 1-hp chiller for each res?

Room size : roughly 23x23 feet
a/c : 5ton split unit
exhaust 720+ cfm
15 1000w bulbs running 24 / 7
three 20 unit ten gal systems (60 totes total)
 

nitro harley

Well-Known Member
Heard what's shit ? Chillers? You needa keep your water 68-70 degrees max at all times lol
Hello...

I don't live in a hot area, and I don't use chillers...In the summer my grow room will reach temps of up to 88 degrees. the rest of the year 65 to 80..I do use beneficial bacteria like actinovate and I have had consistant quality grows..I never worried about the temps...I do believe in moving a lot of air...

What are your temps?
 

Fazer1rlg

Active Member
I'm no DWC expert but I heard there shit.
"You heard"? Lol try it for yourself before you try to down something.

My first plant in dwc yielded 5.5 oz I just keep my dwc on hardwood and concrete floors I have never had water temp issues. No need for a chiller if you do that. I also use beneficial bacteria and they keep the root system healthy and fight of bad bacteria.
 

LivingCanvas

Well-Known Member
Chiller size is generally based on volume of water. If you have (3) 20 bucket / 10 gal systems, then you have 30 gallons of water.
What I would suggest (assuming what I said was correct) is making 3 cool coils, out of wort chillers (brewing) which go for ~$50
each. Run a water res (not nutes) off to the side and daisy chain the coils (assuming all 3 systems are in the same room or nearby rooms)
with 3/8th tubing and drop a coil in a control bucket for each 20 bucket system.

That would be the cheapest and most efficient. What is the total volume of water for all 3 systems combined?

I personally use a 40gal undercurrent, and run 1 cool coil off a 1/4hp chiller, and the chiller rarely runs.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
I don't think water volume alone is enough to determine chiller requirements. Ambient temps, exposure to heat inducing lamps and pumps, humidity levels, and surface area all effect the heat load, There are probably factors I haven't even thought of. I would suggest you try this: Set up your system as it would normally be operated, pumps, lights and all. Run it for a minimum of 24 hours. At least until you get a 4 hour period where the temps no longer are rising, but remain stable. Check it during the warmest part if the day. This will give you an accurate idea of how warm your system will get. Get a chiller(s) that can cool that water down to the temp you want to be at in 4 hours (I'm guessing here, anyone got input?) This is probably a little more than you need, but thermostic control will prevent over cooling and better too much than too little. My 1/4hp chiller cools my 50 gallon ebb-n-flo and runs very little also, but a DWC would probably heat up more due to the pump running all the time. Sorry about the troll remark. I shouldn't question the motives of those coming here to ask for help.
 

LivingCanvas

Well-Known Member
Wouldn't "three 20 unit ten gal systems (60 totes total) " be 600 gallons?
See that's my question. Is that 10 gallons per bucket? Obviously the bucket wont be filled to the brim, so no it wouldn't be 600 gallons.
It was worded rather poorly in the OP.
 

LivingCanvas

Well-Known Member
I don't think water volume alone is enough to determine chiller requirements. Ambient temps, exposure to heat inducing lamps and pumps, humidity levels, and surface area all effect the heat load, There are probably factors I haven't even thought of. I would suggest you try this: Set up your system as it would normally be operated, pumps, lights and all. Run it for a minimum of 24 hours. At least until you get a 4 hour period where the temps no longer are rising, but remain stable. Check it during the warmest part if the day. This will give you an accurate idea of how warm your system will get. Get a chiller(s) that can cool that water down to the temp you want to be at in 4 hours (I'm guessing here, anyone got input?) This is probably a little more than you need, but thermostic control will prevent over cooling and better too much than too little. My 1/4hp chiller cools my 50 gallon ebb-n-flo and runs very little also, but a DWC would probably heat up more due to the pump running all the time. Sorry about the troll remark. I shouldn't question the motives of those coming here to ask for help.
A lot of good points. I don't really worry about surface area, since all my buckets are lined with insulation to improve efficiency. Also, as the plant grows and shades the bucket from the light
it'll matter even less.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
See that's my question. Is that 10 gallons per bucket? Obviously the bucket wont be filled to the brim, so no it wouldn't be 600 gallons. It was worded rather poorly in the OP.
Yeah, but he said totes, not buckets so 10 each would be reasonable. Hard to tell exactly what he meant.
 

ricky6991

Well-Known Member
I use cheap 1/8hp chiller with a 396gph pump on a 55gal system and i use a 1/4hp chiller on my 180gal system...

Chiller is 100% necessary im blessed i got away with my water temps on my first go around. Once warm weather came i had the money for the chillers. Water temps got to 70 and then crept higher and my leafs were growing weird spot and disfigured... i got chiller and all my issues went away.

I got the chiller set for 64* an i have no problems at all.
 
Top