Wanting some feedback

Well I got some interesting replies from my last post regarding growing with plasma tv, so wouldn't mind some feedback on the following if anyone has any experience.

Has anyone else tried the banana skin in seed pack before planted to determine female sex - I have tried this before and got all fems- due to the rotting banana skin releasing ethylene - was it a fluke or did the ethylene actually work

I use molasses in every second feed as the plants require sugars for the energy to grow, but been told to spray the buds with it when 3 week from harvest, not tried this as yet wondered if anyone has.

I use orchid nutes for vegging and orchid bloom for flowering-had fantastic results just wondered if anyone else has done the same.

Use a homemade co2 generator -yeast and sugar mix- that I have expelling into my oscillating fan to distribute the co2 over the plants, not sure if this works but plants have previously seemed to respond in quicker growth.

Give plants 18 hours of dark between veg and flower to speed sexing of plants, this alters the start time so instead of coming on at 6 in morning the lights come on at 12 noon, again had 100 percent sauces rate, is this a coincidence or does it work.

Thinking of trying a moon light during the 6 hours of dark in veg time as I have been told this stimulate bushing in plant, had anyone any experience of this.

Also an idea I'm thinking of trying is putting a fewspectrum bulbs in, previously it was believed that plants only use blue and red spectrum but hydro farm did testing with Michigan university and they have discovered that the green spectrum allows the plants to absorb more oxygen in rooting so latest led lights have more green spectrum which apparently accelerates growth to the point hydro farm grow a lettuce 60percent quicker than with a similar setup without green spectrum added, anyone any experience of using green spectrum bulbs and if so what kelvin rating is best.

Any feedback gratefully appreciated and also if anyone else has any old wife's tricks I'm willing to try owt.

and anyone one would think it was just a weed that grows out of the natural earth..........

"Thinking of trying a moon light during the 6 hours of dark in veg time as I have been told this stimulate bushing in plant, had anyone any experience of this." My outside plants have gone wild this year, all types no just weed, flowers veggies just everything. We have had some realy trick full moons this year, the pink one a few months back and the eclipse and I was talking to someone about this a few weeks back I did not know they made a moon light i going look that up now.

beaupj said:

Well I got some interesting replies from my last post regarding growing with plasma tv, so wouldn't mind some feedback on the following if anyone has any experience.

Has anyone else tried the banana skin in seed pack before planted to determine female sex - I have tried this before and got all fems- due to the rotting banana skin releasing ethylene - was it a fluke or did the ethylene actually work

I use molasses in every second feed as the plants require sugars for the energy to grow, but been told to spray the buds with it when 3 week from harvest, not tried this as yet wondered if anyone has.

I use orchid nutes for begging and orchid bloom for flowering-had fantastic results just wondered if anyone else has done the same.

Use a homemade co2 generator -yeast and sugar mix- that I have expelling into my oscillating fan to distribute the co2 over the plants, not sure if this works but plants have previously seemed to respond in quicker growth.

Give plants 18 hours of dark between veg and flower to speed sexing of plants, this alters the start time so instead of coming on at 6 in morning the lights come on at 12 noon, again had 100 percent sauces rate, is this a coincidence or does it work.

Thinking of trying a moon light during the 6 hours of dark in veg time as I have been told this stimulate bushing in plant, had anyone any experience of this.

Also an idea I'm thinking of trying is putting a fewspectrum bulbs in, previously it was believed that plants only use blue and red spectrum but hydro farm did testing with Michigan university and they have discovered that the green spectrum allows the plants to absorb more oxygen in rooting so latest led lights have more green spectrum which apparently accelerates growth to the point hydro farm grow a lettuce 60percent quicker than with a similar setup without green spectrum added, anyone any experience of using green spectrum bulbs and if so what kelvin rating is best.

Any feedback gratefully appreciated and also if anyone else has any old wife's tricks I'm willing to try owt.

Click to expand...

Don't know about the banana peel.
Molasses is for soil grows as it helps the soil in return the plant. If you spray the buds your going to have all kinds of problems due to residue, and it's not advisable to spray buds with anything late in flower as u will be promoting the chance of mold.
As for the co2, you wold be better off running a small hose freom ur yeast/ sugar mix with a bunch of small holes. hang it over plants. CO2 is heavier than air so it will fall right on plants.(turn fan off when using)
From everything i've heard and read, plants cant see the green spectrum, thats why people use them to work on their plants in the off cycle. If plants could register grteen, then the plants would hermie same as a light leak.
Other than changing your light schedule, 18hrs of dark is not going to do much. A lot of your growers and breeders alike say if you give 48to72hrs dark when flipping switch it will reduce time plant tkaes to convert over from veg.

This is the moonlight bulb I was going to try next time I grow -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Exo-Terra-25W-Night-Glo-Moonlight-Lamp-Bulb-Reptile-Amphibian-Lighting-/150827975468?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Reptiles_Spiders_Insects&hash=item231e0c432c#ht_500wt_922

No. Everything you have stated above is a load of crap and i think you know it.

Is it now mr 'I don't know shit' ganja......

Quantum Balancing - Generation III
Hydro Grow's 3rd Generation Spectrum was developed with the help of the University of Washington who taught our company about the importance of Quantum Efficiency. The study of Quantum Efficiency relates to plant growth and isolates the number of photons required for the formation of one oxygen molecule in photosynthesis. While many scientists have long believed that green plays no role in photosynthesis, quantum efficiency shows that green produces the most oxygen compared to photons delivered. Since oxygen is formed during photosynthesis by the combination of water, CO2, and light, there is much evidence to support that green is actually very efficient and valuable for photosynthesis in terms of Quantum Efficiency, as shown in this study from Oxford: Green Light Drives Leaf Photosynthesis More Efficiently than Red Light. Green light has also been proven to have an effect on the overall growth time and yield of plants, and can speed up the entire growth process for all plant varieties with the proper ratios

In order to create the Quantum Effect with our LED Grow Lights, we had to completely re-develop our lights on the Quantum (micromole) level. Our new light ratios are based on the exact light output of each individual LED wavelength we use, rather than basing our ratios on the # of LED's contained in our products. We find this to be a much more accurate approach to producing the exact ratios plants require to thrive. Likewise in order to create the Quantum effect in plants, you must balance all 3 regions of PAR, including the 500-600nm green region. Our 3rd Generation spectrum therefore uses 525nm green instead of white with our 6-band design. The ratios have been modified to 75% red, 10% blue, and 15% green, as these ratios showed the most promise in our own testing, as well as testing performed by Russian scientists and NASA. We tested 3 different variations of our 3rd Generation light for 9+ months before releasing the best performing model to the public. The independent testing performed with our 3rd Generation spectrum showed that plants grown under our lights flowered a full week faster than HPS, saving you valuable time on your harvests! Likewise end yields have been enhanced from prior generations up to 15%! Click here for even more research on green light combined with red and blue.

And next.......And this is how seed sellers ensure their seeds are feminized.........

Treatment of seeds with ethylene gas will increase the resulting number of female plants by about 50%. Ethylene is produced by certain plants (i.e., bananas, cucumbers and melons), and these can be used to treat hempseed in a simple manner. About two weeks before you plan to sprout the seeds, place them in a paper bag, and put that in a plastic bag with the peels of a ripening banana or cucumber. Replace the peels after a couple of days, and change the bags to prevent mould.

Ethylene: One of the 5 plant hormones. The levels and ratios of these 5 hormones has a huge impact on the shape, strucutre, aroma, flavor, flowering time, and disease resistance of the plant. Hormones are the chemical messengers that allow DNA to 'talk' to plant tissues and determine the phenotype. Ethylene is primarily involved in flowering, sex determination, fruit ripening, and sensescence (rot). Ethylene is a simple organic molecule, C2 H4, which can also be represented as H2C=CH2.
In cannabis, female plants will produce male flowers if not enough ethylene is present, or if too much gibberellic acid is present. The intersex condition is due to a combination of genetic and environemental factors. Some plants will not turn male under the most extreme stress, and some plants, especially stretchy tropical sativas, will turn with no stress at all. It is my belief that the stress of severe inbreeding, compounded over several generations, is responsible for the majority of hermaphrodites in the drug cannabis gene pool (DCG) today.

The second is to use a hormone called ethylene, which inhibits the development of male pollen bearing flowers. Ethylene should be sprayed upon the leaves and flowers of your plants, and is commonly found in plant shops as a flower boosting agent. Ethylene has been in use for the last twenty or more years, and comes in many brand names and concentrations. Check with your local plant shop on brands and methods of using flowering agents.

leds are for christmas trees

Ooooo and next....... NPK levels perfect for mj growing......And a fraction of the costs......

A fertilizer is said to be complete when it contains N, P, and K. Fertilizers are said to be balanced when they have the same ratio of N, P, and K. Examples of commonly used Orchid fertilizers ratios are 20-20-20, 30-10-10, and 10-10-10. When comparing fertilizers, one is told to check the ratio of the three numbers to each other. How many times have you heard "20-20-20 is exactly the same as 10-10-10, just use less of it"?. True, each has a ratio of 1 to 1 to 1; However, they are exactly the same in ratio only! As these ratio numbers are percentage expressions of the primary nutrient components, a hobbyist should compute the amount of each fertilizer needed to obtain the ideal concentration of the nutrient. For periodic feedings,150 to 200 parts per million (PPM) of N is excellent. To obtain the desired concentration of Nitrogen, One could use a chart. But the actual calculations are quite easy. The same calculation can be used for obtaining the desired concentration of the other nutrient components. Using the given rule that one ounce of fertilizer dissolved in 100 gallons of water yields 75 (PPM) of fertilizer at delivery. Therefore, to decide how many ounces of 10-10-10 to add to 100 gallons of water to obtain 200 PPM available Nitrogen at delivery, multiply the decimal equivalent of the 10% N component in the formula, 0.10 x 75 PPM = 7.5 PPM; then 200 PPM divided by 7.5 PPM means that 26.7 ounces of the formula would be needed. For the 20-20-20 product, the calculation would be .20 x 75PPM=15 PPM; then 200PPM/15PPM =13.3 ounces. Of course if you use a five gallon bucket of water instead of a 100 gallon bucket, divide the required product by 20 ( 5 gallons is 1/20 of 100), ie 13.3/20 = .665 ounces, or by 100 if you are using a one gallon bucket, which would be 13.3/100=0.133 ounces. If you use a siphoning system, such as 15:1 or 16:1, simply adjust the amount of the fertilizer to 3/4 of the amount calculated for 100 gallons for the concentrate. The concentrate is mixed 1 part concentrate to 15 or 16 parts water, resulting in 75 to 80 gallons of mixed nutrient water at delivery.
So, the actual amounts needed are different depending on which formulation is used. The old "one tablespoon per gallon" recommendation is not really usuable. Now that you have figured out the proper concentration, you need to check the analysis data on the fertilizer container to determine the true available N at delivery. Review the data information, discounting any part of the nitrogen availability that comes from urea. It can take up to a year break down Urea . By that time, the Urea is well out of your potting media, and totally unavailable to your Orchids.. So if urea constitutes 10% of the Nitrogen source in the 20%-20%-20% formula, then 50% of the Nitrogen is unavailable to the plant ( 10/20=50%), so you need to double the amount of fertilizer to get the proper amount of fertilizer to your plant. Which means doubling all the other components. Now we are entering into an area for another article called "nutrient antagonism's". Wherein the excess of one nutrient reduces the uptake of another. As an example too high concentration of Nitrogen has been proven to inhibit an Orchid's ability to absorb and use Potassium (K). The lack of K can be seen in leggy, weak stemmed plants, which lack the strength to hold up their leaves. The easiest way around this dilemma is to use Non urea fertilizers. These Non Urea based fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which the urea based fertilizers do not. We recommend and use Grow More fertilizers.

While looking at the data information on the fertilizer container, look for the micronutrient components. Many of the current Orchid fertilizers do not have any micro nutrients in their formula. The lack of micro nutrients is not a problem for the terrestrial plants, as the micro nutrients can be obtained from the soil. In soilless conditions, in which most Orchids are grown, micronutrient deficiencies can and do become a problem. Again, We recommend and use Grow More fertilizers , which incorporate the vital micro nutrients into their formula. The micro nutrients provide strength for the new growth and support for the flowers

The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-10-20 with coconut chips, tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 (urea based), or 20-10-20 (non urea) with fir bark. For bloom boosting, use 6-30-30 for better blooming. This formula adds more K to provide plant strength to hold up the additional flowers. Many formulae do not provide the needed strength nutrients. You get a better blooming, but the flowers droop.

Slow release fertilizers release nutrients (make them available to the Orchid) over an extended period. Cottonseed meal, blood meal bone meal and fish emulsion are examples of organic fertilizers. These contain relatively low concentrations of actual nutrients and must be used in larger quantities. Most Orchid media can not readily accommodate Slow release fertilizers, because the granules are washed through the potting media before being completely dissolved. They do find some use in fine medias, which prevent the washing through problem.

Would you like me to continue are do we now realise you know fuck all about alternative growing.

Stick to your canna nutes clown boy and leave the boundary pushing to experienced growers. Ok bud!!!!!

And an addition to the spraying molasses onto bud sites - this apparently has to be done in conjunction with using UVB light, as the UVB breaks down the sugars and then this feeds the turpenes and phenol into producing more thc and thc-v, not tried this as not tried UVB yet but getting one of these [h=1]Arcadia D3+ T-5 46 Inch 54 Watt *12% Desert UVB*[/h]so my mate will let me know when he tries it out, if information received is correct this can potentially double the thc content of your plant.