Very poorly girls

Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
I'm posting again as a last ditch effort to save these girls. The are fast buds autos in bio bizz light mix 6.5l pots. Feed 1ml bio grow, 1ml calmag, 1.5ml bio too Max, 3ml bio bloom, all per litre of tap water (left to sit for 24hours beforehand) and once nutes added phing at 6.8. any help at this point would be greatly appreciated.
 

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DonnyTinyHands

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a lot of bottled shit to me. Like way too much. And most people who grow halfway hydro using salts nutes in medium like that don't go for enough runoff on each watering. Thinking salts built up in your medium and your soil PH is wack because of it. Not sure if much can be done to save them. Like they'll be harvestable and you'll get something but I don't know how to get them back to healthy that far gone that late, gotta just ride it out I think. Would flush several times with just PHed water and go light on the bottled stuff when / if you feed again. Next time less is more and more runoff if you stick with the silly halfway hydro shit. (my personal bias comes through nicely in this post I think, disregard if halfway hydro works good for you.)
 
Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
DonnyTinyHands said:
Sounds like a lot of bottled shit to me. Like way too much. And most people who grow halfway hydro using salts nutes in medium like that don't go for enough runoff on each watering. Thinking salts built up in your medium and your soil PH is wack because of it. Not sure if much can be done to save them. Like they'll be harvestable and you'll get something but I don't know how to get them back to healthy that far gone that late, gotta just ride it out I think. Would flush several times with just PHed water and go light on the bottled stuff when / if you feed again. Next time less is more and more runoff if you stick with the silly halfway hydro shit. (my personal bias comes through nicely in this post I think, disregard if halfway hydro works good for you.)
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So go for more runoff and low nutes for the next run. Thanks alot for your input, really appreciated
 
danielbae

danielbae

Member
You are just using about the recommended dosage from BioBizz, I wouldnt change a whole lot. Also you used light mix, so you will need nutes. Personally, if you use tap water, I'd leave the calmag away and just use it maybe 3 times during the whole grow, depends on how hard your local water is. Now most important, you don't correct PH in an organic grow! You are more likely to kill all your microbes with your ph corrections than helping your plants. Organic grows self regulate their PH.
 
Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
danielbae said:
You are just using about the recommended dosage from BioBizz, I wouldnt change a whole lot. Also you used light mix, so you will need nutes. Personally, if you use tap water, I'd leave the calmag away and just use it maybe 3 times during the whole grow, depends on how hard your local water is. Now most important, you don't correct PH in an organic grow! You are more likely to kill all your microbes with your ph corrections than helping your plants. Organic grows self regulate their PH.
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Thanks for the reply, yes my tap water is high, I did the postcode search on thames water site. I agree I feel somewhere along the line the soil became imbalanced. I flushed with florakleen and gave some eco thrive biosys, so just hope they hold on. Also next run I'm going back to basics, I used to only use grow bloom and heaven, then this run I thought I'd try there larger range. Sometimes simple is better.
 
Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
danielbae said:
You are just using about the recommended dosage from BioBizz, I wouldnt change a whole lot. Also you used light mix, so you will need nutes. Personally, if you use tap water, I'd leave the calmag away and just use it maybe 3 times during the whole grow, depends on how hard your local water is. Now most important, you don't correct PH in an organic grow! You are more likely to kill all your microbes with your ph corrections than helping your plants. Organic grows self regulate their PH.
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Also I haven't been adjusting pH. It was generally 6.7/6.9 after nutes where added.
 
Clumpyoyster

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
Greenthumbgrower1986 said:
I'm posting again as a last ditch effort to save these girls. The are fast buds autos in bio bizz light mix 6.5l pots. Feed 1ml bio grow, 1ml calmag, 1.5ml bio too Max, 3ml bio bloom, all per litre of tap water (left to sit for 24hours beforehand) and once nutes added phing at 6.8. any help at this point would be greatly appreciated.
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Looks like a sulphur def, check out the link below. Good flush with pleny of run off is what i would recommend. What ppM were you feeding these plants? Once you add your nutes and pH the water you should be taking a reading. I test the water before and use that as my base then add my main nutes and test. If there is room or need for more i add small amounts until i get the desired ppM i am targeting whether it be seedlings, clones, early veg, late veg, early bloom, late bloom and adjust the nutes accordingly. After you get your run off you should be pH testing and PPM testing that as well and never leave the run off in your drip trays. Good luck!

Your plants look good though if you can save them which i think you can they look close enough to being done if you take the right steps you will have a decent harvest i think.

www.growweedeasy.com

How to fix Cannabis Sulfur Deficiency (S) Pics & Symptoms

Problem: A cannabis sulfur deficiency causes yellowing of leaves, usually starting with the newer leaves. At first it may look like a nitrogen deficiency.
www.growweedeasy.com www.growweedeasy.com
 
danielbae

danielbae

Member
From the article you quote: Unlike most other deficiencies that cause yellowing of the leaves, a sulfur deficiency will start at the back of the leaf and move it’s way forward as opposed to starting at the tips.

I can't spot that on his pics, can you?
 
Clumpyoyster

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
danielbae said:
From the article you quote: Unlike most other deficiencies that cause yellowing of the leaves, a sulfur deficiency will start at the back of the leaf and move it’s way forward as opposed to starting at the tips.

I can't spot that on his pics, can you?
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well there might be a few issues going on but i am by far someone you should base the health of your plant on by far. I have had some issues in the past but never that outgrown throughout the plant, guess i deal with it quicker. What do you suggest or think it would be? This pic is from that aritcle. His plants problems look like they are working form the top down
1575082820889.png
 
Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
Clumpyoyster said:
well there might be a few issues going on but i am by far someone you should base the health of your plant on by far. I have had some issues in the past but never that outgrown throughout the plant, guess i deal with it quicker. What do you suggest or think it would be? This pic is from that aritcle. His plants problems look like they are working form the top down
View attachment 4429073
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Thanks for reply, this all started around week 4 when then all went into flower. It started looking like a magnesium deficiency and escalated from there. I'm by means an educated grower but I feel i may of over watered/feed, and caused a salt build up with messed the soil pH up and inturn caused a huge lock out. As I stated earlier my other grows have been fine when using bio grow, bloom and heaven, this run I used the full range.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Bio buzz recommends Ph of 6.2 to 6.3 for their products .... looks like you are outside of recommendEd range and locked out .

You are heavily potassium deficient .... typical heavy yellow , leaf margin browning and tip
Even as you correct this .... autos run on an unstoppable clock ( this late in the game ) not sure if it will be a good fix since you are seeing your plant “ just trying to finish “ .....

This is why I hate bottled Nutes ... way too easy to UNBALANCE the feed with a bottle of this and a bottle of that .
When I run AUTOS ... they are only around for about 90 days or so ..... So why over complicate its feeding ? It does not need or have the time to use all of the heavy bottles ..... the medium would have done most of the feeding from the start .... then when it looks like it’s tapping out ... “ recharge “ it with a feed or simply just top dress with soil to feed . Lots Of growers look at autos like regs , but their feed needs are different ( 90 days + or - ).
 
Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
Bio buzz recommends Ph of 6.2 to 6.3 for their products .... looks like you are outside of recommendEd range and locked out .

You are heavily potassium deficient .... typical heavy yellow , leaf margin browning and tip
Even as you correct this .... autos run on an unstoppable clock ( this late in the game ) not sure if it will be a good fix since you are seeing your plant “ just trying to finish “ .....

This is why I hate bottled Nutes ... way too easy to UNBALANCE the feed with a bottle of this and a bottle of that .
When I run AUTOS ... they are only around for about 90 days or so ..... So why over complicate its feeding ? It does not need or have the time to use all of the heavy bottles ..... the medium would have done most of the feeding from the start .... then when it looks like it’s tapping out ... “ recharge “ it with a feed or simply just top dress with soil to feed . Lots Of growers look at autos like regs , but their feed needs are different ( 90 days + or - ).
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What nutrients or top dress would you recommend with autos and soil?
 
Greenthumbgrower1986

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
Budzbuddha said:
Bio buzz recommends Ph of 6.2 to 6.3 for their products .... looks like you are outside of recommendEd range and locked out .

You are heavily potassium deficient .... typical heavy yellow , leaf margin browning and tip
Even as you correct this .... autos run on an unstoppable clock ( this late in the game ) not sure if it will be a good fix since you are seeing your plant “ just trying to finish “ .....

This is why I hate bottled Nutes ... way too easy to UNBALANCE the feed with a bottle of this and a bottle of that .
When I run AUTOS ... they are only around for about 90 days or so ..... So why over complicate its feeding ? It does not need or have the time to use all of the heavy bottles ..... the medium would have done most of the feeding from the start .... then when it looks like it’s tapping out ... “ recharge “ it with a feed or simply just top dress with soil to feed . Lots Of growers look at autos like regs , but their feed needs are different ( 90 days + or - ).
Click to expand...
Also bio bizz recommend feeding with every watering. So no cycle feed/water/feed etc
 
danielbae

danielbae

Member
I've send literally 100+ guys doing just fine with the biobizz line and recommended dosage, every watering. This is not a mineral fertilizer
 
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