Very bare plants mid flowering: All leaves yellow/bleaching!! Help.

dump out your tank, then flush with clean pHed water, make sure that water gets into the rootzone of your plants. after a good 10minutes to 1hr, dump that out. The amount of nutrients should really be what you are adding. 1/4 strength is younger plants 1/2 strength mature plants.

Highup said:

Yes it've seen this but i thought that since i'm using Ph Down which is Phosphoric acid for flowering it would not likely be the case since i'm adding about 5ml a day to bring back the Ph down. Or the Ph would raise even more quickly wouldn't it?

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phosphoric acid and phosphorus(P) is definitely not the same thing lol.. You need to study harder. the reason your plants look like they do is because you diddnt do your part. to me it looks like combo of PH out of range / long time between waterings and probably like 4-5 other deficiancies.. another thing it could be is that you arnt getting enought oxygen to the roots. also i dont know if you raised your lights to take the shots but theya re too far off. your internodespacing is outrageous bro. if you can get them lights closer without heat issues, make sure you do.

I dont mean to come of as a dick, but from my understanding you need to read up more info. i hope the next grow goes better for you. this one is beyond saving imho, but it wont mean that you wont get any bud, just not as much and not as good.

lol i am pretty sure if he chopped up his plants and took clones of it now, he might still make it out with some genetics

Thanks for the help.

The lights were 90% off on the pics. And strong flash to show the real colors.

The thing i don't understand guys is that i can tell you 100% sure that the ph never got out of range. And the EC never rose to crazy levels.

I had massive roots like 2ft long getting fully wet and they are not sitting in solution. I have also two pc fan blowing air in the root chamber.

My friend also cut half of roots don't know if that would hurt. Has the roots were twice longer than the plant. lol

This is my first grow and unfortunately i should have left them for 1 month at early flower stage to my mate... He wasn't as careful as me.

I don't understand all the magic and chemistry but i do things by the letter and very carefully with all the measurements etc... I went a bit less than advised on the nutriment schedule from VG too.

Should i leave the 700w of led on top or only 240w is enough to keep them going without too much light stress?

The internode distance wasn't that big at all before flowering. Maybe it's because of the pics you can't see the size, my plants are very small. The tallest is 15" only.

I'm going to flush them now with some salt cleaning solution and h2o2.

I've set back the watering to 15min ON and 30min OFF. And only a third of the lights are on now.

i dont think you cant have too much light as a weed plant. think about this, how much lumens is there on a bright sunny summer day? theres at least 10,000 lumens. normally indoors, even with HPS, plants get only 2500-6000 lumens.

doesnt mean that your pH doesnt get out of range, it is accurate. you can get consistent readings, but the wrong readings if not calibrated.
please dont ever cut the roots off a plant because its too long. what if i cut a portion of your small intestines out instead?
i dont think having direct PC fans on the rootzone is good for the plant. they need some O2, but not that much moving air. it gets them dried out easier. as far as i am concerned, they need dissolved oxygen, not air in the rootzone
i dont see why you need to flush with h202 unless theres a oxygen problem, or you got some disease/pest problem. normally, i would not add H2o2 to my weed because it kills the beneficial microbes that helps it uptake nutrients

Ok. But my ph meter was frequently calibrated at 7 pH. Every time i put the meter in the buffer it would rear 7 pH or 6.9 pH. So it never got out of calibration.

Too much nute could have cause the lock out too right?

About the lumens it can be reached eventually, but with the leds the PAR will be much higher than sunlight as all the wattage is focus on the spectrum that the plant will absorb. I did some data comparaison with the PAR and it could be easily reached. And that's from first hour of light to the last. Unlike in nature where it dims etc...

Thanks for clearing that out regarding the roots. I've decided not to listen to my "well informed" mate's advices anymore... It's the same who took the initiative to cut all my fan leaves which were the cause of all this because before they were fine.

By the way, chronologically they cut all the fan leaves at the same period as they installed the 2x extra 240w 3w with lenses. Before they were doing fine on the 288 x1w only.

A a few days later they left the watering fully ON for 24h.

So it's hard to know what cause this. Maybe all of it together. The root were cut yesterday... They are probably gonna die now lol.

I get a bit of algae even when changing res water every 10 days. So i thought i tried that. Also the roots were a bit brown but i think it's just coloration from the nutes.

you need two solutions for calibration, sometimes 3.
4.01, 7.00, 10.01. using ph 7 alone does not calibrate anything sadly.

nute lockout is caused by
1. your water (hard water fucks shit up)
2. nutrient imbalance- having absurd ratios of elements can block absorbtion and cause chemical reactions
3. bad mix of nutrients, which causes chemical reactions
4. pH imbalance- probably the most frequent occuring of all.

the par from LED can never be as bright as the sun. sun's light comes from the fusion reaction of hydrogen cells, unless thats what LEDs do, it can never mimick that effect.

a rule of thumb- never cut a plant's leaf. if it is meant to fall off, it will fall off by its own,

if you have algae, that could easily compromise the health of your system. make sure your system is light proof. line it with poly film or mylar.


my recommendation to you now is to start over. or clone off your dying plants. maybe the clones will survive and u have the chance to start over

Ok i will get another buffer. But my pen can only calibrate to one value i guess. At least i can check with the second buffer if it's accurate.

My water is hard as hell... But it wasn't an issue until mid flowering.

Can you advise me a link or something to a good range of nute? Those were very expensive and organic but i think it just led to more disaster with the organic stuff.

But photoinhibition exists right? I didn't made that up. I saw a comparaison table with datas for PAR with various lights and a sunny day at mid day and it could be achievable easily with leds with the right spectrum. But a 1000w HPS would still be quite far off that. I saw a few topics online about people reporter that their powerful leds were burning/bleaching plants without heat.

I'm going to seal the light better and remove the fans too. Even after the 1h15 off and with the fan blowing the roots would still be moist. The room is quite humid too.

That's what i was thinking too on the leaves.

I already have lots seedlings and cuttings starting to grow in my veg room. But i really want to finish those ones if they can yield anything as i have put so much effort and i'd really hate to trash them.

The buds are still growing but slowly. I still have 3 to 4 week of flowering to go so i might as well wait and see while the new batch grows in veg no? I'm flushing now and i will fill back up with 1/2 nuts strength.

photoinhibition is true, but i dont think it applies to cannabis. more to algae. trust me, you are more likely having a nutrient and water problem than a light problem.

as to your water, if its hard like where i am (500ppm tap), then you need a reverse osmosis water filtration system. otherwise, you will be more prone to nutrient lockout later in your plant stage.
let me explain this to you,the harder the water, the harder it is for your plants to uptake nutrients. think of this, your plants drink water and nutrients. it will uptake what it needs and leaves the rest. and that builds up, day after day after day till the point it just makes it extremely difficult for your plant to uptake nutrients.

since your a beginner, i would avoid improvising on nutrients and stick with something solid. i will send you a pm on my nutrient schedule.

The tap water has an ec of 0.4 which is 256ppm. So it's not that hard isn't it?

Even with going lighter dosage than the schedule the EC keps rising about 0.1 to 0.2 ec a day. Either it was too strong concentration still or the organic nutes were going alive in the raise up to a crazy point.

That's the nute i'm using. http://www.vaalserberg-garden.com/en/v2/pachamama/ The bloom and boost. And the sugar babe which is part of their feeding schedule.

u get the message i sent you? i think any water over 150ppm is classified as hard water.

the explanation for your EC problem can be simplified as to your plant is drinking water more than uptaking the nutrients your feeding it. it could also mean that your water is evaporating fast, and all the other factors. normally, you thrive to find a balance, enough nutes that your EC would stay the same daily (meaning ur plants eating the right amount of nutes and water at the same time), but that takes a long time to for you to sync in. dilute the water more if you think thats your problem. that nutrient your using.. it doesnt even tell you what are its contents. without that, you dont know what your adding to your plants

urgod said:

i dont know how you got that hot in the cab with LEDs. I remember running my LED in my mylar tent, it got up to 82F thats about it. i had no problem with my plants touching the lights even if i forgot to raise them for a day. i used a scythe ultrakaze fan that did 135cfms, shit was louder than a duct fan that i use now. just keep the lights 1-2 inches from your plants

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I was a little too anxious to start my grow in the new cab and only put 1 80mm pc fan in there and another one hanging to circulate with panda film and it got pretty hot for that the LEDs running on 18/6 could get up there with such a little fan. Now I got 2 120mm n does the job. Hope you get everything worked out though! Just throwing in my experience with plants and heat.

hardness on wter differs a lot depending on where you live/country. myself i have ~250ppm tap water and about 5-6dh and have no issues from that. i had even harder water with higher ppm last year before i moved and had no problems then either and no difference after i move. im just trying to understand it scientificaly? why does the hardness of the water effect the plants badly and how can you tell/what signs do the plants show from it? and in that case, what range of dh- should you watch out for and what is optimal??

anyway chart fort water hardness (dh) goes something like this :
0 - 2 = very soft
2 - 5 = soft
5 - 10 = semi-hard
10 - 21 = Hard
>21 VERY hard.

best regards and good luck