Vegan Organics Aka Veganics With Matt Rize

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
hey matt,
i just picked up a bottle of mayan mycrozyme. i got the biggest one they had and its still the smallest bottle ive seen, lol.

How should i feed this? it must be super concentrated... and i remember you told me it wasnt much of a zyme so if you could go into some more detail that would be great, and im sure HN would love you for whatever u post lol
Follow the directions, they are printed tiny on the back. They can also be looked up online. Even within RIU you can search around and find some great info on Mayan Microzyme. It is a capsulated microbe, a Nitrogen bacteria fixing specie, actually two species. I use it in late veg.

You dilute the mayan and add molasses, then bubble for one to three days. Then dilute again and feed.

Humboldt Nutrients makes some good stuff, they make some crap too. If they don't start paying OMRI then they are getting left behind. I am about to get my garden certified organic, and they don't cut it.
 

sharpshoota

Active Member
Follow the directions, they are printed tiny on the back. They can also be looked up online. Even within RIU you can search around and find some great info on Mayan Microzyme. It is a capsulated microbe, a Nitrogen bacteria fixing specie, actually two species. I use it in late veg.

You dilute the mayan and add molasses, then bubble for one to three days. Then dilute again and feed.

Humboldt Nutrients makes some good stuff, they make some crap too. If they don't start paying OMRI then they are getting left behind. I am about to get my garden certified organic, and they don't cut it.
well if my bottle had the dilution ratio on it... you reccommended it so i just wanted to check back with you (takin the easy road lol). sorry for the stupid question though
when you say dilute again, if i did 5ml/ per gallon, bubble it for a couple days, then add another 5ml/ per gallon. so basically i would be adding 10ml/ per gallon but just doing it over time, in order to build some microbial life... sorry again bro i know it must be hard, ill leave ya alone tho man lol
and the bottle i got is listed as OMRI but it may be old...
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
Hey guys, I had a few questions as I've had a few problems over the last couple months. First off, I am a new grower, but have some experience using the Fox Farms line of Nutrients and we have that pretty dialed in, we were looking to move to the BioCanna line. I decided to be the guinea pig and went off and got set up. I had some problems right off. I was using Canna Coco with my BioVega, Cannazyme, and Rhizotonic.
Coco is close to hydro. Canna makes different nutes for coco. The Biocanna line is made to be used with soil, or the Bioterra Plus. BT Plus is an peat/bark/coco mix with very high end peat

The plants yellowed over the next week. I got in touch with Canna and they told me that I needed to go with a peat based fertilized soil, so I went back and picked up some Happy Frog Organic Soil. For the next week, I gave the plants water, Rhizotonic, and Cannazyme. They turned green again and started to grow. The following week, I added 4ml of BioVega to the mix, and the following week I went to 8ml. I started having problems and signs of Nutrient Burn were popping up so I went back to just water and Rhizo/'Zyme. They are doing well again, and at the beginning of next week will be going into bloom.
8mL/gal is a big jump from 4 over that time period. Check my journal in my sig, I have some numbers listed. Try going more gradual. Get a plastic syringe from the pharmacy to measure your nutes for accuracy. And forget the coco unless it is small part of the mix. Coco is in BioTerra Plus, but in lesser amounts relative to the peat. It's all about the peat!

My questions are about the Happy Frog Soil. I used it because we I couldn't find any BioTerra Plus as it is now not allowed to be imported due to sterilization issues. I was told Happy Frog was comparable and that I should use a ferilized soil, so I went with that. I don't even think that you need nutes if you are using the fertilized soil.
Happy frog has enough food for a few weeks, that is all, and is by design. But if you are using a true soil (check my "what is soil-less organic" thread) then you need little or no extra nutes.

I am pretty sure that if I just added water to them when they were dry, they would do their thing. Thus negating the need for the nutrients, lol. The other problem is that the water retention is terrible. On my newest set going into veg and from here on out, I believe, I cut the soil with Pro-Mix in a 1:1 ratio. The water retention is much better, but now I will have to retweak my nutrient mix.
Water retention is terrible how? Stays wet too long?
When I used Happy Frog I cut in a little perlite.

So basically ya that is it, any ideas? I am thinking that when I go into bloom with these I will have leeched enough of the nutrients in the soil to safely use the BioFlores without burning them again. When I start veg with my 1:1 ratio plants, should I let them use the nutes in the soil for a week and then add my BioVega in after that? Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.
1:1 ratio plants: I can't tell you for certain. I do not run that system. It should not be that different. You are mostly changing the perlite content by using pro mix. I would just add some grade 3 perlite to the happy frog and 8/6 the perlite. Let them use the available food, this is when you add inoculants and teas, both, separately.
If you have not been using any nutrients, then introduce them gradually. If you have signs of overfeeding, or imbalance, then back off. After I transplant I do not feed for a couple waterings. Then I slowly start using the bottled nutes as needed. Do not start using the Flores until two or three weeks into flower.
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
well if my bottle had the dilution ratio on it... you reccommended it so i just wanted to check back with you (takin the easy road lol). sorry for the stupid question though
when you say dilute again, if i did 5ml/ per gallon, bubble it for a couple days, then add another 5ml/ per gallon. so basically i would be adding 10ml/ per gallon but just doing it over time, in order to build some microbial life... sorry again bro i know it must be hard, ill leave ya alone tho man lol
and the bottle i got is listed as OMRI but it may be old...
It's all good mang. I have no secret for the Mayan Microzyme. I use it once per cycle, and again if I let the media get too dry at any point.
The idea is you add the 5mL to a gallon of water with a good tbs of molasses. Then bubble it and let the organisms wake up, the encapsulation dissolves, and, maybe even the microbes grow in solution. Then you take this relatively strong solution and dilute it again. Any tea you brew (this isn't really tea but is similar) will need to be diluted at least 1:20, probably 1:30.

Hey, sorry if I come across abrupt, been having wrist issues, lol, effing laptop keyboard.
 

virgrow

Member
checked out your journal, looks good. do you use anything other than the vega and rizo in the veg cycle? and when do you add the extra P and K, as soon as you start the flores or later in flowering? also do you use tea with every feeding? thanks.
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
checked out your journal, looks good. do you use anything other than the vega and rizo in the veg cycle? and when do you add the extra P and K, as soon as you start the flores or later in flowering? also do you use tea with every feeding? thanks.
Im also using Calplex and Huvega, a tiny bit of mineral matrix, some wet betty, white widow, and molasses.

Teas (just EWC and molasses usually) are for microbes and I do that once or twice in mid and late beg. Its about tea time for me. I'll post some pics of the process, I brew tiny batches. It's really simple.
 

beeznutz

Active Member
Right on man. Just started rocking the HN bloom myself. Love the soluble seaweed!




http://www.bio-organics.com/Mycorrhizae_Products.html

http://www.fedcoseeds.com/ogs/certifiedproducts.htm

nice RP ;)
i remember checking that site about a yr ago, totally forgot about it....

checked the bio-organics but wasn't too keen on their presentation, left me wonder, i don't know why...

mycorrhizae.com looks pretty good and they have a few options to choose from but their MycoEndo products are nowhere to be found, only thing available is Great White and Plant Succes here: http://mycorrhizalonline.com/default.aspx

this is from their site:

MycoApply® Endo

Granular
4 species Endomycorrhizae
60,000 Propagules per lb.
MycoApply® Ultrafine Endo

Powder (can pass # 70 screen)
4 species Endomycorrhizae
130,000 Propagules per pound
MycoApply® Liquid Endo

Liquid suspension (can pass # 70 screen)
Now with 4 species Endomycorrhizae
3.6 Million Endo Propagules per Gallon
MycoApply® Soluble Endo

Powder (can pass # 70 screen)
4 species Endomycorrhizae (40,000 Propagules/lb.)
High Quality Soluble Organic Fertilizer 5-0-2
MycoApply® Soluble MAXX

Powder (can pass # 70 screen)
9 species Endo & 11 species Ectomycorrhizae
31,200 Endo & 1.5 billion Ecto Propagules per lb.
15 species Bacteria, 2 species Trichoderma and specially formulated amendments.
 

beeznutz

Active Member
it's official:

VAM- Endo MixTM

Yes the product is organic. All components are naturally occurring and all
species of mycorrhizae are not genetically modified in any way. There are no
animal or animal byproducts, so yes it is vegan. Thanks for taking the time to
contact us with your questions.


Best Regards,

Ryan Zadow
R&D/Technical Sales Support
BioAg Inc.
land 503-838-2467
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
it's official:

VAM- Endo MixTM

Yes the product is organic. All components are naturally occurring and all
species of mycorrhizae are not genetically modified in any way. There are no
animal or animal byproducts, so yes it is vegan. Thanks for taking the time to
contact us with your questions.


Best Regards,

Ryan Zadow
R&D/Technical Sales Support
BioAg Inc.
land 503-838-2467
Wonderful. He says it is organic, but no mention of certification. Regardless, that is the best product according to the pros, in terms of price vs efficacy.
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
I'm going to try to get my hands on some BTP, but I think for now I'll just be doing the Happy Frog with the Pro Mix in it. I have a lot of Pro Mix at hand and am trying to be frugal where I can. :) I've been thinking about how i'm going to do it, and I think on the first 2 weeks in veg it will be getting Rhizo and Zyme and like you said I will gradually add in nutes after that. The first run is always the most stressful when tweaking your recipe and learning new strains.

When do you think I should be adding in Bio Boost? It says to when flowering is initiated, but it also says that with the Flores, and you suggest waiting 2-3 weeks into flowering. I'm still learning, so thank you for your patience and advice.

Edit: Oh and about the water retention. The Happy Frog barely soaks anything up and a lot of the water is running to the pan in the bottom. I have slowed watering basically down to a quarter gallon over a couple minutes and move to a different plant until I've given it what it needs, but a lot of the water still makes it to the bottom of the bucket in the pan.
 
When do you think I should be adding in Bio Boost? It says to when flowering is initiated, but it also says that with the Flores, and you suggest waiting 2-3 weeks into flowering. I'm still learning, so thank you for your patience and advice.
According to the Canna feed chart which Matt says he follows, you should start using it "when small fruits develop" about 1-3 weeks into flower (like the Flores) and keep using it through the end (not like the Flores). I believe he's following the "light" feeding schedule, more or less. The BioCanna schedule can be found here: http://www.cannagardening.com/growguide
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
Thank you Digispliff, that is what I had planned, but wasn't really sure. I had heard several different things in regards to this and it is nice to hear something along the lines of what I was reading and thinking.

Is there a section or any information that I can be pointed to about teas and inoculants?
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
According to the Canna feed chart which Matt says he follows, you should start using it "when small fruits develop" about 1-3 weeks into flower (like the Flores) and keep using it through the end (not like the Flores). I believe he's following the "light" feeding schedule, more or less. The BioCanna schedule can be found here: http://www.cannagardening.com/growguide
Yes, but I foliar the boost to save money, and cut it out last two weeks. Im using some cal/mag on top of the light feeding schedule, basically. more tomrrow, hash pills making it hard to type. Finally finished bubbling and made about 40 more grams of jack bubble tonight. zzzz
 

beeznutz

Active Member
hey Matt, i think im going with the VAM Endo but i can't decide which size to order- whattya suggest? 100g or 300g?
if you can give me an idea about your method of application [how much do you use and at what stages of growth for
how many plants] that would be helpful.

thx......
 

Matt Rize

Hashmaster
hey Matt, i think im going with the VAM Endo but i can't decide which size to order- whattya suggest? 100g or 300g?
if you can give me an idea about your method of application [how much do you use and at what stages of growth for
how many plants] that would be helpful.

thx......
It depends on your garden size and if you can split it with friends. I would buy the smaller size. I do not use large amounts of inoculants, just need them early to get established.
 

beeznutz

Active Member
It depends on your garden size and if you can split it with friends. I would buy the smaller size. I do not use large amounts of inoculants, just need them early to get established.
gotcha...
I have 10 cuttings about a month old and getting ready to transplant this week into bigger pots and put them under T5-
would u still recommend it at this stage?
 
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