Using myko with synthetic feeds

G

GreenParty

Member
I use the Xtreme Myco product. I add it to the root ball coming out of my solo cup and I add more directory to the roots when I transplant to the final pot. I use the Jacks Citrus product switching from a 20-20-20 to the 20-10-20 when I read about the conflict between Myco and P. I proved to myself its viability as I used it for 2 grows before I realized the P problem. Once I reduced the P ppm to <80 I saw a significant increase in roots and ultimately, yield.
So, I would say yes it works great chemicals with a reduced NPK dose. Concerning the carbs...it is my understanding that the carbs the fungus needs comes from the plant and not from something added to the soil. Now maybe the sugars provided by molasses gets pulled into the plant and then passed back to the fungus....but I have had good results without adding anything sugary.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
GreenParty said:
I use the Xtreme Myco product. I add it to the root ball coming out of my solo cup and I add more directory to the roots when I transplant to the final pot. I use the Jacks Citrus product switching from a 20-20-20 to the 20-10-20 when I read about the conflict between Myco and P. I proved to myself its viability as I used it for 2 grows before I realized the P problem. Once I reduced the P ppm to <80 I saw a significant increase in roots and ultimately, yield.
So, I would say yes it works great chemicals with a reduced NPK dose. Concerning the carbs...it is my understanding that the carbs the fungus needs comes from the plant and not from something added to the soil. Now maybe the sugars provided by molasses gets pulled into the plant and then passed back to the fungus....but I have had good results without adding anything sugary.
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Ah ok good info cheers mate.

As a secondary question what was the typical max total ppm you were feeding?.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Hey, just want some clarification. Their seems to be 3 types of extreme myko. One is a granular or dusty type that is seemingly best added on transplant directly to roots. The other is water soluble or WP as stated. The last one looks more like clay pebbles, I assume it's the type to mix with soil and breaks down over time. My mistake the last one is for hydro.

Well, the first two what is the real difference?. Must you use the first product on transplants and the WP one on regular re-applications or could you get away with doing all that with just one of the products?.

http://www.xtreme-gardening.com/mykos

Scroll down to see the 3 variations.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Flowki said:
Hey, just want some clarification. Their seems to be 3 types of extreme myko. One is a granular or dusty type that is seemingly best added on transplant directly to roots. The other is water soluble or WP as stated. The last one looks more like clay pebbles, I assume it's the type to mix with soil and breaks down over time. My mistake the last one is for hydro.

Well, the first two what is the real difference?. Must you use the first product on transplants and the WP one on regular re-applications or could you get away with doing all that with just one of the products?.

http://www.xtreme-gardening.com/mykos

Scroll down to see the 3 variations.
Click to expand...
The WP is for watering in and the granular one is for use in building soils.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
The WP is for watering in and the granular one is for use in building soils.
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I imagine you could place the WP dry in the transplant hole too?. Or would it be better to spray or dip the roots in WP solution prior. Would it be silly to assume the WP is ok being put into ph'd tap water (maybe left out 48 hours prior?) or would it require RO.
 
Igotthe6

Igotthe6

Well-Known Member
Bugeye said:
High synthetic P levels kill off most myco fungi so they don't do much. Now in organics, they are the shit!
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At one point I would have agreed,most bennies die of in synthetic. I was given a sample on mammoth p. It has bennies that thrive in synthetics. I've been using a year or so.Sent out for a free sample,they gave me 2 of their sample size and another jug,I think 750 ml.
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Flowki said:
I imagine you could place the WP dry in the transplant hole too?. Or would it be better to spray or dip the roots in WP solution prior. Would it be silly to assume the WP is ok being put into ph'd tap water (maybe left out 48 hours prior?) or would it require RO.
Click to expand...
I would guess but, it would take weeks to spread into the rest of the potted soil.....That's why it's a Wettable Powder! So you mix it with water and simply water it in, spreading out the dormant bio's you've just revived.

Igotthe6 said:
At one point I would have agreed,most bennies die of in synthetic. I was given a sample on mammoth p. It has bennies that thrive in synthetics. I've been using a year or so.Sent out for a free sample,they gave me 2 of their sample size and another jug,I think 750 ml.
Click to expand...
Bio's are not all Killed off by synthetic's. They don't really "die", they go mostly dormant.....Some do expire but not all! Give them a carb source and see what happens...Organic's feed the bio heard - they "feed" the plant (in a sense). Synthetics are directly available to the plant. It bypasses the bio's.....IF you alternately water with a feed and then an AACT tea. You had better start the feed at 50% less then the charting! The bio's are increasing up-take of a synthetic! Now why do you think in the past 4-5 years there has been an explosion of "Myco" products for use with synthetics..
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
I would guess but, it would take weeks to spread into the rest of the potted soil.....That's why it's a Wettable Powder! So you mix it with water and simply water it in, spreading out the dormant bio's you've just revived.



Bio's are not all Killed off by synthetic's. They don't really "die", they go mostly dormant.....Some do expire but not all! Give them a carb source and see what happens...Organic's feed the bio heard - they "feed" the plant (in a sense). Synthetics are directly available to the plant. It bypasses the bio's.....IF you alternately water with a feed and then an AACT tea. You had better start the feed at 50% less then the charting! The bio's are increasing up-take of a synthetic! Now why do you think in the past 4-5 years there has been an explosion of "Myco" products for use with synthetics..
Click to expand...
Yeah that all makes sense. On a basic form perhaps it's ok to mix a half liter of 6.5 ph water with myko and a little molasses to feed after the synthetic feed has been given, per plant. How much molasses would you suggest in a half L to use on a regular basis during veg. Can be easily scaled up to a big mix ofc.
 
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