unidentified flying bugs!

I have some unidentified flying bugs geting more and more of them for each day its making me crazy and im killing alot of them but they keep on winning. I need to change my strategi.

I have bought some organic pyrsol thats suppost to kill the eggs in the coco/dirt and covering each of my plants with some fabric.

The question is to theese fuckers only lay eggs in the medium or do they alsoe put eggs in buds/leafs?

u should identify them before u start with poison......are they gnats??? if so get "mosquito dunks" from home store.

They eat your roots (both fungus gnats and root aphids.) Root aphids do not all have tailpipes but their bodies are all the same shape roughly.

They are not the same beast however. One really really sucks the other is annoying.

Root aphids


Fungus gants

Recently noticed some flying shit in my attic grow, gonna keep an eye on this thread might prove informational.

If you have bugs in your soil, you probably aren't letting it dry out sufficiently.
Last night I picked up a few of my pots & they felt light enough to be watered. Since my judgement has been a bit off (I've got bugs too), I decided to break out the digital moisture probe. Turns out they can go another day, maybe two. I also noticed that some areas of soil are wetter than others, which tells me that the dirt is not getting watered evenly. Instead of just putting them on the drain table, I need to put them in saucers so they can soak a little.
I highly recommend the probe. It even helps aerate the soil.
https://hydrobuilder.com/rapitest-digital-moisture-meter.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=716900

You can top dress DE ( diatomeous earth ) on soil ... It has a desiccant quality that will kill insects ..

Budzbuddha said:

You can top dress DE ( diatomeous earth ) on soil ... It has a desiccant quality that will kill insects ..

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DE helps as an initial treatment, but it soaks up moisture and forms a crust, which is much less effective than the powder. Also, it is very soluble, so the first time you water, the DE disappears. Best way to kill the larvae is with mosquito bits. Soak them in water/nutes five mins then apply.
To kill the adults, yellow plastic indicator cards work surprisingly well and last a long time. Get the ones that say BASF, not the cheap paper ones. Also, gnats can't fly worth a shit so they hate wind. If you've got good airflow, you'll see more of those little fuckers on the ground. To get them, just leave the wax paper on one side of the sticky yellow cards & lay them on the ground. The edges get fuzzy where the bugz crawl onto them & get stuck.

PS: spring tails in the soil altho may look beastly are pretty harmless if population doesn't explode - shows healthy perhaps not well drained soil.

FYI-- Mosquito bits and dunks are 2% BTi with a cork carrier and expensive. I would HIGHLY recommend screwing them dunks and order a small bottle of MicrobeLift for birbaths for $15. It is liquid drops of BTi 8%. If money isnt a issue, gnatrol is even stronger.

https://www.microbelift.com/products/birdbath-and-fountain/mosquito-control/birdbath-mosquito-control/

First thing to do is make sure you know for sure what bug it is. A lot of people just start spraying shit that may not be what they need.

I use DE on the top to kill gnats but then water from the bottom so as not to disturb the 1/2" coating on the top. Working a bit of it into the soil then smoothing the surface before putting on a layer has worked great for me in the past. Got to cover it well. Can also add DE to the soil when mixing it up and it helps to kill them off throughout the rootball as it dries. Also adds silica, calcium and all sorts of trace elements that are good for your plants.

I got a 30lb bag of feed grade DE from the feed store for $30 about 12 years ago and still have about 10lbs left. Used a lot to wipe out ant hills around the property too. Once the ants are gone I just dig up the old DE and toss it in the compost to make that better for the garden.

Yellow and blue sticky traps are good to have stuck in the pots all the time. Find out about flying bugs before they get to be a problem. Won't help for mites and thrips tho so inspect any funny spots that show up on leaves right away. Especially underneath where they live, breed and feed.

NaturalFarmer said:

FYI-- Mosquito bits and dunks are 2% BTi with a cork carrier and expensive. I would HIGHLY recommend screwing them dunks and order a small bottle of MicrobeLift for birbaths for $15. It is liquid drops of BTi 8%. If money isnt a issue, gnatrol is even stronger.

https://www.microbelift.com/products/birdbath-and-fountain/mosquito-control/birdbath-mosquito-control/

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One dunk will do a pond by itself, plus dunks are cheaper. Just crumble a section of a dunk into small pieces

and spread it on top of your medium. Its easier than mixing it with water. In a few weeks the gnats are history.

sammy2 said:

One dunk will do a pond by itself, plus dunks are cheaper. Just crumble a section of a dunk into small pieces

and spread it on top of your medium. Its easier than mixing it with water. In a few weeks the gnats are history.

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100 sq ft not a whole pond. I used dunks for years no way is it cheaper. Feel free to spend your money though, I dont give fuck really. A bottle of 8% lasted me a year and a half compared to a few months with dunks. $10+ x 6= $60+ a year. $10 a year for the MicroBElift $15/18 months.

I'm just trying to save people money, that simple. Speaking of simple. Can it get any easier than
a drop in water?

Hello again i did a very simple thing. I skipped the pyro chemicals and just tok an old textile cheet not sure about the spelling but the one you sleep on haha.

I did cut them in apropment size and wraped it around the stem with a metall string and just covered the medium looks like a dress. And guess what the gnats are GONE.

If u have problem with other gnats that can lay their eggs under the leafs or somewhere else u have to try another method. Peace

NaturalFarmer said:

100 sq ft not a whole pond. I used dunks for years no way is it cheaper. Feel free to spend your money though, I dont give fuck really. A bottle of 8% lasted me a year and a half compared to a few months with dunks. $10+ x 6= $60+ a year. $10 a year for the MicroBElift $15/18 months.

I'm just trying to save people money, that simple. Speaking of simple. Can it get any easier than
a drop in water?

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I bought 1 pack of dunks in 2010 and have only used one part of a dunk. One treatment eliminated the gnats in rockwool.
The dunks cost around 9 dollars and seem to last over the years. You can get dunks almost anywhere locally. There is
more than one way to kill a gnat. Why do you get gnats all the time? !00 sq ft is enough to fill a small pond.

100 square feet of surface area, not volume pal. Bti is Bti. You want to pay more....Cool

NaturalFarmer said:

100 square feet of surface area, not volume pal. Bti is Bti. You want to pay more....Cool

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It's 22 feet to the first cable on a telephone pole, x5 equal 110 ft. Now go outside and look at this example. It's really
way up there. And that is just in feet, not even in square feet.There are 748 gallons in a 100 sq feet. That's pond
size.

sammy2 said:

It's 22 feet to the first cable on a telephone pole, x5 equal 110 ft. Now go outside and look at this example. It's really
way up there. And that is just in feet, not even in square feet.There are 748 gallons in a 100 sq feet. That's pond
size.

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Math isn't your strong suit is it?
10' by 10' is 100 sq ft

How many gallons in 100 sq ft of surface area? You don't understand BTi obviously and I am not going to argue with you. If you think one dunk treats 748 gallons. Who am I to tell you otherwise?
That concentration is sure to work though. Again surface area vs volume.

NaturalFarmer said:

Math isn't your strong suit is it?
10' by 10' is 100 sq ft

How many gallons in 100 sq ft of surface area? You don't understand BTi obviously and I am not going to argue with you. If you think one dunk treats 748 gallons. Who am I to tell you otherwise?
That concentration is sure to work though. Again surface area vs volume.

Click to expand...

I'm not arguing you. There are 748 gallon of water in 100 sq ft. You brought up that figure of 100 sq ft not me.
Why do you get fungus gnats all the time? 748 gallons will make a nice sized gold fish pond.

Can you really have 748 gallons of water in 100 square feet? It just AINT add'em up.

Bro Im not trying to argue with you either but if you are diluting your dunk into 748 gallons. You are not killing shit. Store bought EWC contain fungus gnat eggs. Yes I make a lot of soil but it isn't all for cannabis and I don't have any fungus gnats because I kill them from the beginning using BTi. 2% or 8% it just lessen the dilution. BTi only works as a surface film on ponds. It will not touch anything under the water thus why cubic volume is not in the equation. Your dunk is not very potent FYI. gnatrol is the organic industry standard and that is at 37% but it dilutes to the same amount. It is all about how much you want to spend per unit.

http://www.montecitowater.com/how_many_gallons_of_water_in_a_c.htm

FWIW

my experience BTi microbe-lift did nothing to battle fungus gnats

It took a few doses of SF nematodes to fully eliminate them.

Fought them for months with mostquito dunks, tanglefoot yellow/blue sticky traps, dishes of wine, dishes of milk coffee, all kinds of natural oil sprays and concoctions. One day after introducing nematodes numbers dwindled, after another application a week later they were all but gone.