Understanding quantum boards

Shadrock15

Shadrock15

Member
would some one be so kind as to help me understand the quantum boards I am not literate in Amps and volts and that type of info listed on the website. For instance the 288 or any of them for that matter what are the diode wattages I get that the input watts can be adjusted but what size/watts are the acual diodes. If i were to crank them up to say 220 watts how hard am i pushing them. I just curious I like the boards and the foot print is best fit form me but i am just a little confused. I havnt ruled out cobs by any means and dont want to start a war of which is better i just want to understand realy what to expect from the qb particularly the 260 watt xw as it seems flowering coverage is perfect for me. And I also wonder why no 2700k mixed with 6500k I always believed they were the best acual spectrums and i felt maybe mixing them like i do my t5 would be better...any way thanks for any help you can offer
 
Shadrock15

Shadrock15

Member
projectinfo said:
http://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/
Click to expand...
Wow thats a great article it will take me awhile to read it and even longer to understand lol im not the smartest when it comes to electrical stuff but i am piecing it together I timatly want to have a safe light so i dont wholley trust myself to build but you dont know till you try
Can i ask what wiuld you consider really to be the best spectrum/ kelvin to run from clone to harvest
I still would germ and clone some with mu t5 I also am coriuos as to the penatration the quantum boards or even the strip loght you speak off actualy have I think thats where i need help too how can you actualy judge the penetration i get the ppfd idea but that doesnt seem to me to translate into real canopy peneatration and I dont like to lollipop because it seems to hurt more than help
 
GBAUTO

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
I run cobs and it can be challenging to get a uniform spread of the light from each emitter. That seems to be the primary advantage of QB's or strips-using low power diodes spread out over a larger area allows you to create a more uniform PPFD across the space. As with any indoor light source, plant training can have a big influence on yield. Because of my affinity to manifolding, I will always remove alot of the 'sucker' branches that form on the interior of the plant. The advantage is that the plants interior doesn't turn into a overgrown shrub. I run both 3K and 4K Vero's and I have not noticed any appreciable difference between multiple strains.
 
Rakin

Rakin

Well-Known Member
Shadrock15 said:
Wow thats a great article it will take me awhile to read it and even longer to understand lol im not the smartest when it comes to electrical stuff but i am piecing it together I timatly want to have a safe light so i dont wholley trust myself to build but you dont know till you try
Can i ask what wiuld you consider really to be the best spectrum/ kelvin to run from clone to harvest
I still would germ and clone some with mu t5 I also am coriuos as to the penatration the quantum boards or even the strip loght you speak off actualy have I think thats where i need help too how can you actualy judge the penetration i get the ppfd idea but that doesnt seem to me to translate into real canopy peneatration and I dont like to lollipop because it seems to hurt more than help
Click to expand...
I have both 4000k and 3000k quantum’s. Imo for one spectrum quantum for entire cycle 3000/3500/4000 will all work well. Picking out of those 3 would depend on style of grow and how much headroom. 3500k would probably be the sweet spot but I haven’t used it so I’m just guessing. That being said I am really fond of the 4000k, not sure why other then it works well and I like the color of it. Helps my anxiety.
 
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