Underground Genetics - Small Scale Amatuer Breeding

Underground Scientist

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Hi Guys,

I'm looking to talk about amateur breeding that someone could do on a scale that's attainable to the average person. I'm fortunate enough to live in a Rec legal state that gives me the freedom to do this.

I haven't been growing long time, but I can grow start to finish with decent results.

Besides learning from RIU Vets, I've learned quite a lot from Greg Green's book, "The Cannabis Breeder's Bible".

I'm motivated to do it mainly because I enjoy growing and want a challenge, and hope I can find something special.
 
Underground Scientist

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
One plant that's gonna be in the stable is Peak's NorthernSkunk. Nice structure and appearance, strong smoke with Sativa zip without the anxiety. I'm nursery size pots, 5 gal (3.5), I've gotten 3 oz from them as a noob...some training, Keeping them short. It clones easy, grows easy. Lemon\Hashy.

Going through some JOTI gear, and I'm popping a few RedEyed Strains.
 
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Underground Scientist

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
My disadvantage at a small scale is I'm limiting the gene pool I'm pulling from. But I'll be running 10 packs of strains in the hunt, half pack at a time...sorting for the best. If I run a 10 pack, find some keepers, I might run another 10 pack down the road. Beans are expensive.

But when I get to F2's, I'll be able to pheno hunt with a passion, because it will be my own seed stock. 4'x4' Veg, 5'x5' Bloom, 2'x4' Male/Breeder Tent. Veg and Bloom is CMH, Breeder is COB. Soil grows with semi organic liquid nutes, and some tea.
 
Underground Scientist

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Countrybuddin said:
always keep a clone of plants and label in case you find something special. I used to breed on a small scale and it is still possible to achieve high numbers if you grow 12 12 from seed, you can do 25 in your tent easy.
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Yeah, I've been racking my brain over space design and clone storage is a factor.

I don't want to grow 12/12 from seed though. I'm basing it on a method I use that I think makes sense.

Grow from seed at 18/6 and start them in 1 gallons with hydroton drainage layers.

Grow and top the 4th node. LST to maximize multiple tops, looking to mimic tie down technique.

By 6 weeks old, the plants reveal their sexual maturity and basic vegetative growth structure. Structure is important, so I want to see this stage. Then, keepers are transplanted into 5 gallons and vegged for 1 to 2 weeks to adjust to transplant and prepare for a growth spurt. Then flip to 12/12.

The 1 gals fit 9 into a 2x2 space. (8" footprint)

The 5 gals fit 4 in a 3x3 space. (18" footprint)

I figure I could have 18 early veg spots, 8 transition spots. Up to 9 in Flower. 3 more slots dedicated to male selection. Males should be able to be culled before transition, and are going to be grown out with appropriate feed in the 1 gallon pots in their own space.
 
Underground Scientist

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Underground Scientist said:
Yeah, I've been racking my brain over space design and clone storage is a factor.

I don't want to grow 12/12 from seed though. I'm basing it on a method I use that I think makes sense.

Grow from seed at 18/6 and start them in 1 gallons with hydroton drainage layers.

Grow and top the 4th node. LST to maximize multiple tops, looking to mimic tie down technique.

By 6 weeks old, the plants reveal their sexual maturity and basic vegetative growth structure. Structure is important, so I want to see this stage. Then, keepers are transplanted into 5 gallons and vegged for 1 to 2 weeks to adjust to transplant and prepare for a growth spurt. Then flip to 12/12.

The 1 gals fit 9 into a 2x2 space. (8" footprint)

The 5 gals fit 4 in a 3x3 space. (18" footprint)

I figure I could have 18 early veg spots, 8 transition spots. Up to 9 in Flower. 3 more slots dedicated to male selection. Males should be able to be culled before transition, and are going to be grown out with appropriate feed in the 1 gallon pots in their own space.
Click to expand...
So if I grew 4 beans of 3 different strains, I'd have 6 clone spots. That's probably not enough, then again, maybe clones should go into 18oz cups, then selections are transplanted into 1 gallons, cloned again and put into breeding. 3 strains maximum for sure. Basing my whole new world here on RedEyed Genetics 3 strains I have to start. They are all related by one of the strains, Locktite.
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
I like your concept here, what I'm struggling with is a numbers game. To be truly rec legal I am limited to 12 plants total, 6 per adult, 3 in flower per adult, max of 12 in house.
Just did my first chuck from seed started plants. In the future I will grow out and select the mothers AND fathers, then chuck from small clones on an open form.

I think selecting a male keeper will require basically an inverted approach where for a round or two flower production will have to suffer as you watch for certain characteristics like when they drop pollen, and dot they (the males) show any herm tendencies or suceptibilites.

I don't clone too much, I like to keep a variety going from seed, I enjoy some strain variation and honestly if this first chuck worked it'll be next year before I try it again.

Also, look at square pots. Found some 4 plus gallon ones that are taller and narrower than round nursery pots and since they are square fit into a square room much more tightly, can fit 6 in a 3x3 with room for a heater and humidifier, possibly up to 9 if you don't have anything on the floor.
 
Countrybuddin

Countrybuddin

Active Member
or check out fabric pots. i stress test the fuck out of my males. cut them. change light. clone them and subject clones to various stresses wont even use a male if his clone turns female
 
Underground Scientist

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
I like your concept here, what I'm struggling with is a numbers game. To be truly rec legal I am limited to 12 plants total, 6 per adult, 3 in flower per adult, max of 12 in house.
Just did my first chuck from seed started plants. In the future I will grow out and select the mothers AND fathers, then chuck from small clones on an open form.

I think selecting a male keeper will require basically an inverted approach where for a round or two flower production will have to suffer as you watch for certain characteristics like when they drop pollen, and dot they (the males) show any herm tendencies or suceptibilites.

I don't clone too much, I like to keep a variety going from seed, I enjoy some strain variation and honestly if this first chuck worked it'll be next year before I try it again.

Also, look at square pots. Found some 4 plus gallon ones that are taller and narrower than round nursery pots and since they are square fit into a square room much more tightly, can fit 6 in a 3x3 with room for a heater and humidifier, possibly up to 9 if you don't have anything on the floor.
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That's a bummer man. We are allowed unlimited young vegetative plants, with 2 adults, 12 flowering plants, and 24 plants 18" wide x 24" tall or greater that are not in Bloom. I'm liking the good work our citizens intiative did :clap:
 
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Underground Scientist

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Countrybuddin said:
or check out fabric pots. i stress test the fuck out of my males. cut them. change light. clone them and subject clones to various stresses wont even use a male if his clone turns female
Click to expand...
I know, I should grab fabric pots. I drill lots of holes in my 5 gals to help some. I like I can train easily with green twist ties using the lip if the pot to tie down to.
 
Underground Scientist

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Underground Scientist said:
Maine :bigjoint:
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I remember there was a network of Northern Maine guys who smuggled from grow houses in Canada this killer bud. Psychedelic, fluffy smooth smoke, that had this beautiful smell. Wish I knew that strain. They used to swim across the river with hockey bags, and killed the lights on snow sleds to cross in the winter. Wild times.
 
Underground Scientist

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
Here's My Basic Soil Formula:

3 Trade Gallons of Fox Farms Ocean Forest

2 Trade Gallons Advanced Sunshine #4

1 Trade Gallon Hoffman Coarse Vermiculite

3 Tbsp of Azomite
3 Tbsp of Mykos

My tap water is 45 ppm on tap, chlorine is not strong, and PH is almost 9.

I mix in 1 gallon of my tap water with 1 ml of Cal Mag Plus, and 2 ml of Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Grow. That gives a PPM of almost 200 and brings my PH to 6.3-6.7. That is my definition of regular water.

It mixes in a mortar pan real sweet. I use plastic pots and I fill to the top of the pots drain holes with hydroton, for an airy base layer, then soil mix to the top.

IMG_20180209_225725569_HDR.jpg

That makes 7 Trade Gallons in pots.
 
Underground Scientist

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
I decided to adjust the mix slightly. I had

3 Trade Gallons Fox Farm Ocean Forest
2 Trade Gallons Sunshine Advanced #4
1 Trade Gallon Super Coarse Perlite
.5 Tbsp/Gallon Azomite
.5 Tbsp/Gallon Mykos
425 ppm feed water:
45 ppm Tap Water
2 ml CalMagPlus
4 ml Advanced Nutrients B-52
4 ml Pure Blend Pro Grow

I bumped the Super Coarse Perlite up to 2 trade gallons, and a handful per mix of General Organics Ancient Forest.

Topped with Gnat Nix and 1 Tbsp/gal of Diatomaceous Earth.

5 Gallon Air Pot for the transplant on a bed of clay Pebbles.
 
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