Ttystikk's vertical goodness

Bbcchance said:
Damn your vocabulary!:cuss:

as·cet·ic
əˈsedik/
adjective
  1. 1.
    characterized by or suggesting the practice of severe self-discipline and abstention from all forms of indulgence, typically for religious reasons.
    "an ascetic life of prayer, fasting, and manual labor"
    synonyms: austere, self-denying, abstinent, abstemious, self-disciplined, self-abnegating;More
noun
  1. 1.
    a person who practices severe self-discipline and abstention.
    synonyms: abstainer, puritan, recluse, hermit, anchorite, solitary;
    fakir, Sufi, dervish,sadhu;
    archaiceremite
    "a desert ascetic"
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good grower aka getting his shit done versus most of the growers who " I will do that shit tomorrow" and put the work off for another time.

"I will deal with those spider mites after I smoke a few bowls and drink a few beers." The spider mites just laugh as they keep munching on his plants. :neutral: :dunce:

LOL!
 
ttystikk said:
Um, sure;

It's working like a charm.

Grow cool and RH is on point. Check.
House warm, in January, with subzero temperatures. Check.

bongsmilie
Click to expand...
Are you having to supplement heat at all?
What about a certain trick you eluded to a while back?

Edit: how many wall watts are your rooms pulling and for what hours (unless you can't split household usage vs. Garden us based on electric bil?)
 
Last edited:
Right not exprcting the bill to go down but to word it thermodynamicaly how many btu of cooling is it actually doing? This of course means nothing without the context of how that power is used, lights, fans, extra cooling...... so in terms of wall watts knowing it will be a mix of led, mh, hps, pumps whatever how much cooling, wild guess..?
 
SSGrower said:
Right not exprcting the bill to go down but to word it thermodynamicaly how many btu of cooling is it actually doing? This of course means nothing without the context of how that power is used, lights, fans, extra cooling...... so in terms of wall watts knowing it will be a mix of led, mh, hps, pumps whatever how much cooling, wild guess..?
Click to expand...

I'm pulling the same watts. It's about the same heat. It is also more yield. :bigjoint:
 
SSGrower said:
I'll see if I can reference the post but see edit in post above
Click to expand...
↑
So I'm feeling stupid again tt, this isn't the system that provides cooling to your garden via a water chiller that I assume sits outside?
You've landed in the mind warp corner of grow engineering, brother. I take the heat my HVAC system removes from the grow spaces and use it to stay warm.

Pretty slick, huh? What if I told you I had an even better trick up my sleeve?

:bigjoint:
 
Budley Doright said:
↑
So I'm feeling stupid again tt, this isn't the system that provides cooling to your garden via a water chiller that I assume sits outside?
You've landed in the mind warp corner of grow engineering, brother. I take the heat my HVAC system removes from the grow spaces and use it to stay warm.

Pretty slick, huh? What if I told you I had an even better trick up my sleeve?

:bigjoint:
Click to expand...
Yep I commented about a separate circuit for cooling cobs...
 
Budley Doright said:
↑
So I'm feeling stupid again tt, this isn't the system that provides cooling to your garden via a water chiller that I assume sits outside?
You've landed in the mind warp corner of grow engineering, brother. I take the heat my HVAC system removes from the grow spaces and use it to stay warm.

Pretty slick, huh? What if I told you I had an even better trick up my sleeve?

:bigjoint:
Click to expand...
Let's hear it.
 
I was guessing that was your trick but here's my idea. A ton of assumptions starting with leds being the main heat source and it would be feasible to actively cool with liquid cooled heatsink. That circuit connects to your unit. Instead of indirectly heating the room then needing to cool that air, the heat is (with good design) more effeciently transfered no ?
 
SSGrower said:
I was guessing that was your trick but here's my idea. A ton of assumptions starting with leds being the main heat source and it would be feasible to actively cool with liquid cooled heatsink. That circuit connects to your unit. Instead of indirectly heating the room then needing to cool that air, the heat is (with good design) more effeciently transfered no ?
Click to expand...
My COB LED modules are already water cooled?
 
Budley Doright said:
That's what I was gonna ask lol. You've implemented a few "tricks" since that statement :).
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if the context of that post. It may be that I was referring to keeping the chips cold using the cold water circuit. The rain for doing it went beyond keeping the grow room cold; it was to exploit the temperature droop curve. The warmer these chips get, the less efficiently they run. The reverse is also true. I ran the chips at 55F to push the efficiency of them beyond what was measured by the standard test conditions of 25C/77F.

I did not have any instrumentation to document exactly how much more efficient the chips became. Theory said 5-10% better than other ambient temperature plus approaches like passive or even active cooling.

What I found was that I had trouble keeping my grow space warm enough; with cold COB LED modules, the room stayed in the low 70s and RH was too high. To reiterate; my 6' wide x 12' long x 8' tall space was pulling nearly 5500W and it was too cold!

This prompted a change in approach; instead of passing cold water through the modules, I sealed them up and have been running them as passively cooled. This has helped plant transpiration and growth, since the modules are running at 125-135F, or about what one would expect from the now passively cooled fixture.

The water cooling system is still working to cool the room via the water cooled air handlers, they are just now doing it alone, without actively cooling the modules.

I had problems with the cold modules; as prototypes, they weren't constructed to handle condensation very well, so they dripped with moisture when I ran cold water through them. Some of the lenses leaked and filled with water, damaging the chips inside.
 
Budley Doright said:
That's what I was gonna ask lol. You've implemented a few "tricks" since that statement :).
Click to expand...

I've been meaning to install hot water baseboard heaters in my grow space, fed by the hot side circuit, to heat the room and provide dehumidification. My HVAC tech has been busy, however.

The delay has given me time to think about the system and I want to try a different approach; I'm going to put the modules back into a water circuit- but this time I'll connect them to the hot side. 'Hot' is relative; only 90-110F. Note this is cooler than running the modules in a purely passive mode.

The advantages include being better able to control the heat entering the growing space, removing excess heat, cooling the chips and still being able to utilize the heat. One more advantage is that there would be no need to shut down the water circuit at night, so the entire array can be used exactly like the hot water baseboards were originally intended for; nighttime heating and RH control.

This may well be even more efficient from an HVAC standpoint since the chiller doesn't need to remove the heat from the chips from the cold circuit and put it into the hot side; it's already there.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top