Mike Young
Well-Known Member
Sweet. Thanks boys. About how much 3-4" should I bury, and the ports on the tube would be reduced down a bit from 4", right?
True HP Aero For 2011
- Thread starter Trichy Bastard
- Start date
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
Its only gay if you chub up, lol. Long black & deep, got it. Ok, so should I reduce the 4" down to like 1" at the connection to my tube?
Hey guys!
Just got finished reading the whole thread. I think you guys are doing some awesome things here, mad props to you all. I really like the HP aero setups that you guys are developing here and keep up the good work!
Before I go back to lurking I just want to ask have any of you discussed about using the Bete PJ Impingement nozzles?
According to the manufacturers website the PJ6 model creates an average droplet size of 39µm @ 5 bars (72.5 PSI) with a flow rate of 0.031 Liters per Min, and all this at a 90 degree angle.
0.031 liters per min x 1000 = 31 milliliters per min
31 milliliters per min / 60 = 0.51 milliliters per second
So holding other things constant in the theory, if I had a one second timer and I used the above PJ6 nozzle I would be in the norm that Atomizer mentioned <1ml per 100l chamber volume per misting. In this case the misting time would be one second.
PJ6 nozzle links:
http://www.bete.com/pdfs/BETE_PJ-metric.pdf
http://services.bete.com/scripts/cgiip.exe/select/z_Selectpj.r?proc=search
They are very expensive. About $45 per piece and min order is $50 so you have to order at least two. Other than the high price tag what do you guys think? Would they work?
Just got finished reading the whole thread. I think you guys are doing some awesome things here, mad props to you all. I really like the HP aero setups that you guys are developing here and keep up the good work!
Before I go back to lurking I just want to ask have any of you discussed about using the Bete PJ Impingement nozzles?
According to the manufacturers website the PJ6 model creates an average droplet size of 39µm @ 5 bars (72.5 PSI) with a flow rate of 0.031 Liters per Min, and all this at a 90 degree angle.
0.031 liters per min x 1000 = 31 milliliters per min
31 milliliters per min / 60 = 0.51 milliliters per second
So holding other things constant in the theory, if I had a one second timer and I used the above PJ6 nozzle I would be in the norm that Atomizer mentioned <1ml per 100l chamber volume per misting. In this case the misting time would be one second.
PJ6 nozzle links:
http://www.bete.com/pdfs/BETE_PJ-metric.pdf
http://services.bete.com/scripts/cgiip.exe/select/z_Selectpj.r?proc=search
They are very expensive. About $45 per piece and min order is $50 so you have to order at least two. Other than the high price tag what do you guys think? Would they work?
If you`ve only got one tube i`d use a bit of 4" flexable aluminium duct from the filter box to the tube. If you bring the ADS up vertically into the filter box you only need a bit of gaffa tape to seal the slots where its above ground. The slots will allow any condensate to soak into the soil. The warm moist air entering the ADS will exit cooler and drier. The filter box allows for easy expansion, you`ll need a second box to the thermal chimney which is basically a black vertical tube that heats up in the sun creating a convection current. Your growing tube effectively connects between the chimney and the soil tube. You can add a small fan to the chimney box if you need a boost.
DH: if i recall its from Dick Blick (Blik?) or something like that, a search should find it
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
DickBlick art .com or something like that.. search for 150 tpi monofilament screen...
How you planning on stretching it? I seemed to do alright fitting it into a DIY window screen kit...
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
This is better answered by Atomizer or tree farmer, but I have looked into those, specifically the PJ6 is probably their most likely candidate for the job. They are rediculously expensive and it looks like you can source the same looking nozzles straight from the chinese companies on AliBaba.com for pennies on the dollar. The issue is the spray angle is not as good as the bio-controls and I could be wrong, but one of the guys has tried them and still prefers the Bio-controls. The other issue is the real world spraying volume will tend to be a bit more than the theoretical amount due to the manufacturers numbers usually being off, and there are some mechanical delays and what not involved with the solenoids and everything else. It really offers you alot more control to have the ability to use timings under 1 second- as the window of perfection for hydraulic is quite small and after everything is built, the timer is the only buffer to get close to the correct mist feeding volumes.
Welcome Gvortek- Thanks for reading, and hope you decide to build a system some day...
Hope you chime in once in a while now...
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
So, first off thanks atomizer for the awesome suggestion on the thermal chimney. I get it now, and it'll be more work but I think it's worth it. First things first. I stated that the holes I drilled were 3", and I meant to say 4. Turns out the OD of a 3" coupler fits just nice, so I chopped a few of em in half. I epoxied them in, and plan to go around with silicone later. The netcup couldn't fit any better. Still trying to decide if I want 1/2" main up close to the netpots like in the pics, or under the tube completely. I'm thinking that even though the main is in the direct sunlight, the smaller tubing is harder to insulate without being cumbersome/ugly. I don't know why they don't make foam pipe insulation white?? 
Gotta remedy that as well.
Gotta remedy that as well. I would make a cover for the whole manifold from white pvc mini-trunking (rectangular), the type with the snap-on cover. Fit tee`s to the main run and then they`ll cover the feedtubes right upto (or into) the netpots
This is the stuff, comes in various sizes : http://www.cwberry.com/ProductImageHandler.ashx?ItemNumber=07072007&Size=Display
This is the stuff, comes in various sizes : http://www.cwberry.com/ProductImageHandler.ashx?ItemNumber=07072007&Size=Display
This is better answered by Atomizer or tree farmer, but I have looked into those, specifically the PJ6 is probably their most likely candidate for the job. They are rediculously expensive and it looks like you can source the same looking nozzles straight from the chinese companies on AliBaba.com for pennies on the dollar. The issue is the spray angle is not as good as the bio-controls and I could be wrong, but one of the guys has tried them and still prefers the Bio-controls. The other issue is the real world spraying volume will tend to be a bit more than the theoretical amount due to the manufacturers numbers usually being off, and there are some mechanical delays and what not involved with the solenoids and everything else. It really offers you alot more control to have the ability to use timings under 1 second- as the window of perfection for hydraulic is quite small and after everything is built, the timer is the only buffer to get close to the correct mist feeding volumes.
Welcome Gvortek- Thanks for reading, and hope you decide to build a system some day...
Hey TB
Yeah I already contacted a seller on alibaba but got no response, and most of them require a minimum order of 50-100 pieces. meh...maybe one day I can afford to try them out...
I'm slowly getting all the parts for my system. I also have the biocontrols nozzles in both the 0.016 and 0.025 orifice
Got the 8800, a few cheap ebay solenoids....Just got a used Omron H5CX timer form ebay for good price...still didnt try it out
I found this Nupro PRV a few years ago on ebay for $17...they usually go for more so I figured i'd buy it. Model number SS-RL3M4 10-225psi. I believe its made for gas...but it should work fine in a liquid application..right? Do the same laws of pressure apply for both liquid and gas (at low pressures ~150psi)?
It takes some time and patience to build this thing..so Im just taking it easy and buying parts every now and then when I have some extra cash. In the meanwhile just having fun with my soil grow
thump easy
Well-Known Member
fucken mike young your fucken bad to the fucken bone man you only do aroe i like your style man!!!
So, first off thanks atomizer for the awesome suggestion on the thermal chimney. I get it now, and it'll be more work but I think it's worth it. First things first. I stated that the holes I drilled were 3", and I meant to say 4. Turns out the OD of a 3" coupler fits just nice, so I chopped a few of em in half. I epoxied them in, and plan to go around with silicone later. The netcup couldn't fit any better. Still trying to decide if I want 1/2" main up close to the netpots like in the pics, or under the tube completely. I'm thinking that even though the main is in the direct sunlight, the smaller tubing is harder to insulate without being cumbersome/ugly. I don't know why they don't make foam pipe insulation white??
View attachment 2163425View attachment 2163426View attachment 2163427
cant wait to see how it produces nice job!
my AA thread is here please stop in thanks dudes
dirtless dickkheads aa adventure
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
Nice, off to a good start! It is quite a pain especially the first time, but once you have all the correct parts it comes together relatively quick. You will probably find the .016 orifice (ultra low flow) bio-controls nozzles are better as they mist at a slower flowrate...This is better answered by Atomizer or tree farmer, but I have looked into those, specifically the PJ6 is probably their most likely candidate for the job. They are rediculously expensive and it looks like you can source the same looking nozzles straight from the chinese companies on AliBaba.com for pennies on the dollar. The issue is the spray angle is not as good as the bio-controls and I could be wrong, but one of the guys has tried them and still prefers the Bio-controls. The other issue is the real world spraying volume will tend to be a bit more than the theoretical amount due to the manufacturers numbers usually being off, and there are some mechanical delays and what not involved with the solenoids and everything else. It really offers you alot more control to have the ability to use timings under 1 second- as the window of perfection for hydraulic is quite small and after everything is built, the timer is the only buffer to get close to the correct mist feeding volumes.
Welcome Gvortek- Thanks for reading, and hope you decide to build a system some day...
Hey TB
Yeah I already contacted a seller on alibaba but got no response, and most of them require a minimum order of 50-100 pieces. meh...maybe one day I can afford to try them out...
I'm slowly getting all the parts for my system. I also have the biocontrols nozzles in both the 0.016 and 0.025 orifice
View attachment 2163595
Got the 8800, a few cheap ebay solenoids....Just got a used Omron H5CX timer form ebay for good price...still didnt try it out
I found this Nupro PRV a few years ago on ebay for $17...they usually go for more so I figured i'd buy it. Model number SS-RL3M4 10-225psi. I believe its made for gas...but it should work fine in a liquid application..right? Do the same laws of pressure apply for both liquid and gas (at low pressures ~150psi)?
View attachment 2163596
It takes some time and patience to build this thing..so Im just taking it easy and buying parts every now and then when I have some extra cash. In the meanwhile just having fun with my soil grow
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
Yes Mike- that thing looks almost like it was a commercailly built grow tube- very clean looking!
Awesome DH- I am glad you got it going, and like the title too
I'm glad I did to and thanks to you an everyone here for all the knowledge you guys share its awesome!!!Yes Mike- that thing looks almost like it was a commercailly built grow tube- very clean looking!
Awesome DH- I am glad you got it going, and like the title too
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
I was a bust bastard yesterday. Dug 15' of trench over 2.5' deep. Was goin for 20' but ran out of piss & vingar. Got the ends of the pipe fitted up with a couple 3" toilet flanges. Turned out pretty good. Still got some painting & a couple other things to do, but I'm almost there.
Question on the thermal chimney filter box. It doesn't have to be at the far end as in the diagrams does it? I would think I'd wanna filter the air right before it enters the chamber, right? I'm really stoked at the free simple cooling method of this. Hope it's enough.
Wow, those pics came out shitty. I'll get some better ones when I got time.
Question on the thermal chimney filter box. It doesn't have to be at the far end as in the diagrams does it? I would think I'd wanna filter the air right before it enters the chamber, right? I'm really stoked at the free simple cooling method of this. Hope it's enough.
Wow, those pics came out shitty. I'll get some better ones when I got time.