True Aero Growing "TAG"

mdgcmd

Well-Known Member
Well My garage still has no power so as you can imagine I am still trouble shooting that situation. On the other hand I didn't let it keep me from my work. I got the fans rigged up to the reflector and I wired up the bulb and ballast. As you can see I got my lights in today, but the CMH bulb is defective so they are sending me new one. Naturally I have to send the defective one back to them, but I think it is a waste of shipping charges. I am nearly 100% done with this box and I will soon need to start picking out some seeds hmm.
So what do you think... did I do OK or crappy? I am still building the ballast box so the ballast looks like a wired mess. I chose to build my own ballast box because I plan to add heatsink and fans to the ballast. I read that if you keep you ballast cool it will reduce the buzz sound.
 

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mdgcmd

Well-Known Member
Well aside from the light and fixture I have been lazy and not stepped into my garage. It really doesn't help that for what ever reason I have no more power in there. At any rate am trying to recap what I have gone and still need to do. I would like to get in there today and get some shit done.

As of right now I have the water irrigation in place and secured. I managed to allow the rolling floor to work as I intended it to.

I DO need to resecure the grown bin to the res lid. I am thinking about using a poly caulk instead of the silicone caulk I used earlier. I recently read that the silicone, will last forever but is just not a strong bold for heavy handling application.

I DO still need to light proof the grow chamber and the rez. to prevent any light from getting into the root zone or the rez. chamber. I am going to use Al foil for this as I find it really easy to work with, not to mention it save a lot on duct tape. Duct tape is fairly cheap but the foil is much cheaper and is more effective at keeping light out.

I am hoping that the ventilation system is adequate enough for the cabinet size. I know that the exhaust fan is powerful enough to clear the cabinet but I am not sure if can do the job fast enough extract all the heat. One of the reasons I decided to grow with a CMH was because of the heat of the HPS. Granted that I am loosing about 10000 lumens but I also loose about 100F in bulb heat. The light is also a more adequate for the combination of veg/flwr, compared to just an HPS.

My light will be adjustable but for the most part it will not move. I have only about 14 inches of vertical height above the trellis. So as you can imaging once I the plants reach the trellis I will move the light up to the top and it will stay there for most of the grow. I will also finish rigging the light/fixture to the inside of the cabinet this afternoon.

I will soon be completely done with the building but I feel as if I am leaving out some stuff. Can you guys please help me go through a checklist, I just want to make sure that I am not forgetting anything important. Thanks a lot guys for checking in and leaving feedback. it really does mean a lot to me, I know that it sounds gay (not derogatory) but I really do appreciate any and all feedback that you can give.
 

mdgcmd

Well-Known Member
Pics to come in an hour or so to update you all "visually" of our progress. I wish that the CMH bulb didn't blow/malfunction, so that you could all see what it is like. So as for right now I am using the cheap HPS to make it all look good.

Are there any requests, I mean for pictures... is there anything that you want to see?
 

mdgcmd

Well-Known Member
Hello again roll it up, I bring you some updates and eye candy. The first is a close up of inside the growth area of the box. I believe that the height from aero pod lid to the light is roughly 28". The trellis is about 12" away from the aero pod lid, and the trellis is about 14" or so from the bulb. Once I get the CMH in there I think that 14" is just fine. The CMH being a cooler bulb and still having the fans on the reflector will help in this situation.


The second picture you can see the cabinet in operation. Lights, fans, irrigation system, and exhaust are all online. The top self is where my ballast and such is, you will see this close up in a later pic. I really dig the new irrigation lives. The pump is more silent because I took out the PVC. Once it was removed there was nothing stiff to cause vibration.

This next picture is just another one of the floor rolling out. With the new hoses being much more flexible than the other clear braided hose I was using. I am now able to roll the floor out easily and the hoses just follow right along, not to mention they're black. Grabbing the rez will be a sinch when ever I have to change out the nutes.


Here you can see it running from another angle, not much to explain but you get a good view.
 

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StinkBud

Well-Known Member
Your plants will outgrow your box using any form of aeroponics. Expect 2-3 times the growth rate over soil.

After many years of testing I found that the water droplet size is not a big deal. In fact you allow more O2 to the roots by using a timer. A timer allows the roots to hang in pure air for 5 minutes. It's all about O2 to the roots, not water and nutrients. A timer also helps keep your reservoir water cool.

Right now I'm running 2900PPM with a complete organic nutrient solution. Pump on for 1 minute and off for 5 minutes.
 

zkt

Active Member
Looks good to me. Was thinking along the same design lines but would have to round up a high pressure pump and mist heads. Another way might be to use an aerosol head and compressor. An ordinary asthma nebulizer puts out a fine smoke like mist or can take the top off for larger particles. Doubt if the compressor is rated continous duty but a 10-25% duty cycle might work fine. Controling the noise might be the hard part. I`m still thinkin on how to proceed or just let well enought alone. The dirts doing just fiine. let us know how your setup is working out.
 

akbuds

Active Member
this is a very intresting grow. I am looking forward to seeing some green growing in there.

Mdgcmd I hope this grow meets all your expections. It looks like you have invested alot of time and money into this set up. It will be really great if it performs like you are predicting.

As far as blacking out your res and grow chamber i hear the krylon fusion paint on the outside works really well. I am getting ready to paint my grow chambers on my little aerohybred system but i can decide what color :P . I has thinking yellow to reflect the light away from my grow chambers and wont heat it up. Or do you guys think i should use a darker color?
 

zkt

Active Member
Damn another good one ! I take it your gong with the high pressure pump and aerosol heads and are convinced that it will work better than a magdrive pump and spray heds in a pipe huh ? Keep us posted please.
 

mdgcmd

Well-Known Member
ZKT I am using a high pressure smart pump, and 55 micron mister heads. These heads produce a slightly finer that aerosol mist. The pump is a Shurflo Smart Sensor 5.7, it runs about 200.00 USD and I pray it lasts for quite some time. This pump will pressurize up to 65psi then automatically shut off until pressure reaches about 55psi.

AK I would love to paint instead of foil, it would save me a lot of time and work. I think that yellow would be great but I think that a primer would be useful for the first 2 coats. I was worried about the paint fumes affect the respiration of the stomata.

Stinkbud I am waiting on my timer to come it the mail. I ordered a CAP recycle timer. It will be on a 30 seconds on/ 3 minutes off cycle. I am sure that I will need to adjust it a few times to get it just right for the plants. Hopefully it will not be to much trouble to get it all worked out.

Keep coming back guys, when I have a bit more time I will put up the rest of my picutres. I have a nice "in the dark" picture with a nice view of light leaks... well actually the lack of light leaks lol.
 

Earl

Well-Known Member
I know I'm not a TAG,
but I use 10min on 30min 0ff
and then later use 10 on 120 off.

Check out my non TAG aero grow.
The link is in my signature.

.
 

mdgcmd

Well-Known Member
Wow Earl it looks great... are they growing right now or did you already harvest them already?
Honestly Earl the only real difference between TAG and the aero that I see around here is the pump and misters. That is really all that separates me from the rest of the growers around these parts. If you went out and bought a different pump and misters we would essentially have a TAG setup.

We can all see that your system is a great one and you seem to have it all in order. I hope that my plants look as good as your plants do. The same goes out to you Stinkbuds your crop look very nice and very healthy. My plants may grow a bit faster but I can only hhope that they look as good as all your plants.
 

mdgcmd

Well-Known Member
Yeah that too Earl lol.

Here is some interesting info on element ratios dealing with hydro and even more sensitive to TAG.
By POD RACER from IC Mag:
Here is some very valuable information I just uncovered concerning ratios for hydro. These I'm sure are applicable to TAG to a more defined degree I'm afraid, but as there have been nothing but K def and Ca and Mg issues with TAGing fertilizers this information should aid in remedying any deficiencies.
With any luck..lol

First as stated on the TAG Landing thread:

"I found that fertilizer ratios play a major role in hydroponic beyond the basic N-P-K.

Apparently, the balance between Ca and Mg (a ratio of 3:1) is required for optimal plant growth in hydro. This is the minimum. As long as the ratio stays in that range and there are adequate amounts of other nutrients the plants will continue to pick up both Ca and Mg, while it was found that Ferts with substantially different ratios resulted in some deficiencies of nutrients and will lead to plant stress and prone to disease or pests.

K:Ca, K:Mg, Ca:Mg, Fe:Zn appear to be the limiting factor for growth so for TAG these will have to be precise to maintain flawless leaves...this will be the hard part, unless DMOne has solved this as claimed."

Now even more information:

Ratio between 2 forms of N (NO3:NH4) Best ratio of NO3-N (Nitrate) Vs. NH4-N (Ammoniacal) in any liquid fert is 9:1 as most of the N taken by the plant is in a nitrate form and a very small portion is taken up in an Ammoniacal form.
Secondly...ferts with higher NH4-N can reduce volume of the total plant growth. In general those plants will produce smaller darker green foliage compared to higher NO3-N ferts.
Good to know, eh?

This is due to N form effects on photosynthesis and N assimilation as NH4-N must be immediately used in a process requiring carbos (the sugars you are trying to produce) and without sufficient levels of carbos free NH4-N can be toxic to plants. While on the other hand when NO3-N is taken up it is reduced to NH3 and assimilated into amino acid. If sufficient carobs are not available then the NO3-N is stored in the vacuoles (storage house for salts used to build up osmotic pressure) of the cell until carbos are available. Which means NO3-N will never tie up available carbos (sugars) at the expense of the plant's growth.

This information is all courtesy of Dr. Tahir Mahood
Director of R&D for Grotek Manufacturing Inc.

His work, not mine.
I will start posting tid-bits of information for myself and other. This will serve as a reference to me nd hopefully to some other that join the fun that is called TAG.
 

mdgcmd

Well-Known Member
I do not have direct permission to copy and paste but as long as I am given credit and not taking it I do not see any harm being done. Also I am more than eager to point out and give credit anywhere it is due. POD RACER IMO has an incredible mind for research and information. His words IMO are to be taken very seriously and I believe them to be thoroughly test and true. He has done extensive and expensive amounts of research, along with having the personal notes from the father of TAG. His work regarding TAG is among the most compiled and comprehensive that I have found thus far. I will be taking reference to many of his informative posts.
More from POD RACER... Copy and pasted from IC Mag.

Welcome All,

My name is the Pod Racer (a.k.a - Room2Grow from the days of OG) and I race Aeropods utilizing a high pressure, True Aeroponic Growing style I call TAG.

TAG is based on extenstive research I and other aeroponic enthusist have gained, tested and verified over the years. It is no longer considered to be 'new' or 'evolving' as most of all the kinks have been worked out.
It is the goal of this thread to not only provide a central aeroponics forum for this sight, but also allow those interested to share how they have 'personalized' or 'enhanced' their aeropods to do so.

This is called 'Tricking the Pod' as it is also a Punn on the effect adding 'turbos' to your pod will have. But we will get to these enhancements later.



Now, there will be no restriction on the style of aeroponics discussed here, however there is a distinction that unfortunately causes a great deal of debate amongst growers in the hydro arena. For the purposes of this forum aeroponics will be divided into two growing styles. These are my personal definitions and not industry, but for the purpose of understanding the inherent differences of both I feel there must be a distinct difference in style of growing:

TAG Style = True Aerosol Growing Style and
LAAG = A Lo-pressure AeroAssisted Growing Style based more on NFT than True Aerosol Delivery systems.

The reason for these classifications is that in TAG the objective and method of nutrient delivery differs considerably from that of Lo-pressure tube style 'aeroponic' rigs like the Pipe Dream or any non-pod based system. Though I have a fairly extensive understand of all growing styles, TAG is my personally developed style based on strick adherence to effective aeroponic parameters which are the optimal growing conditions for any plant tissue given the correct adjustments.

I will spare all the involved explanations as these can be found in the myriad pages of posts you'll find under my style or name on this sight. Eventually I am sure I'll repeat all of it, but there isn't a need for extensive examination unless the need arises.

Now, that being said, what are the Parameters for TAG?

1. PSI > 30, 50=Ideal, 100 psi even better.
2. Interval cycling 20-30 seconds on, 3-4 minutes off (Dark periods may extend dry periods).
3.Average droplet size 50µ (micron) nozzles (acceptable ranges 30-80µ) with flows < 2 gph preferably .5-1gph with screen filters of 150 and up.
4.Target root temperatures maintained at 68F. (Mature clones lower temps/younger prefer warmer) Temperatures should never exceed 74F (Dangerous).
5. The greater the aerospace around the root zones the better&#8212;lateral root development equals bud thickness and development your goal are pom pom roots.



6. Nutrient strengths for TAG are extremely ratio sensitive. Most strains will demonstrate deficiencies in K, Ca, Mg, and P, for optimal absorption of nutrients ratios shoud be as follows:

Nutrient balances necessary to avoid lock out or nutrient burn is:

Ca:Mg 3:1
NO3:NH4 9:1



ph is 5.4-5.8

7.
Always have a back up pump or system for failure&#8212;always!
8. Root zones should be completely dark and sealed from any UV penetration. UV kills AM (bacteria that feeds the root system)
9. Always use RO water and premix nutrients before adding to systems to prevent chemicals from coming out of solution and clogging nozzles when possible - as well as 150 mesh filter or higher.

The Root Zone:

should be unrestricted with enough volume to allow every square cm of root zone to become completely coated with a micro-fine mist of 50µ average population nutrient solution every 3 to 4 minutes in under 60 seconds (preferably 20-30 second misting cycles).



Root Zone Temperatures are found to be ideally suited at approximately 68-72°F for maximum efficiency, though younger plants grow faster at higher temperatures and older ones at lower&#8212;these extremes are not conducive to the microculture necessary to support the root colonies and risk of possible bad bacterial infections. The use of HG or any AM inoculant is advised and recommended.
Ideal root temperature has been established at 68°F

Root zone temperatures should see very little temperature fluctuation and absolutely no light penetration if possible. Anything above 75°F should be considered dangerous to the health and well being of your plants and HydroGuard or other benefical is highly recommended. Beneficials are recommended in general as the speed and growth in a TAE is exceptional and the rooting environment needs as much support as possible to keep up with increasing growth demands.

Macronutrients

Nitrogen is a major component of proteins, hormones, chlorophyll, vitamins and enzymes essential for plant life. Nitrogen metabolism is a major factor in stem and leaf growth (vegetative growth). Too much can delay flowering and fruiting. Deficiencies can reduce yields, cause yellowing of the leaves and stunt growth.

Ratio between 2 forms of N (NO3:NH4) Best ratio of NO3-N (Nitrate) Vs. NH4-N (Ammoniacal) in any liquid fert is 9:1 as most of the N taken by the plant is in a nitrate form and a very small portion is taken up in an Ammoniacal form.

Secondly...ferts with higher NH4-N can reduce volume of the total plant growth. In general those plants will produce smaller darker green foliage compared to higher NO3-N ferts.

This is due to N form effects on photosynthesis and N assimilation as NH4-N must be immediately used in a process requiring carbos (the sugars you are trying to produce) and without sufficient levels of carbos free NH4-N can be toxic to plants. While on the other hand when NO3-N is taken up it is reduced to NH3 and assimilated into amino acid. If sufficient carobs are not available then the NO3-N is stored in the vacuoles (storage house for salts used to build up osmotic pressure) of the cell until carbos are available. Which means NO3-N will never tie up available carbos (sugars) at the expense of the plant's growth.

Phosphorus is necessary for seed germination, photosynthesis, protein formation and almost all aspects of growth and metabolism in plants. It is essential for flower and fruit formation. Low pH (<4) results in phosphate being chemically locked up in organic soils. Deficiency symptoms are purple stems and leaves; maturity and growth are retarded. Yields of fruit and flowers are poor. Premature drop of fruits and flowers may often occur. Phosphorus must be applied close to the plant's roots in order for the plant to utilize it. Large applications of phosphorus without adequate levels of zinc can cause a zinc deficiency.

Potassium is necessary for formation of sugars, starches, carbohydrates, protein synthesis and cell division in roots and other parts of the plant. It helps to adjust water balance, improves stem rigidity and cold hardiness, enhances flavor and color on fruit and vegetable crops, increases the oil content of fruits and is important for leafy crops. Deficiencies result in low yields, mottled, spotted or curled leaves, scorched or burned look to leaves..

Sulfur is a structural component of amino acids, proteins, vitamins and enzymes and is essential to produce chlorophyll. It imparts flavor to many vegetables. Deficiencies show as light green leaves. Sulfur is readily lost by leaching from soils and should be applied with a nutrient formula. Some water supplies may contain Sulfur.

Magnesium is a critical structural component of the chlorophyll molecule and is necessary for functioning of plant enzymes to produce carbohydrates, sugars and fats. It is used for fruit and nut formation and essential for germination of seeds. Deficient plants appear chlorotic, show yellowing between veins of older leaves; leaves may droop. Magnesium is leached by watering and must be supplied when feeding. It can be applied as a foliar spray to correct deficiencies.

Calcium activates enzymes, is a structural component of cell walls, influences water movement in cells and is necessary for cell growth and division. Some plants must have calcium to take up nitrogen and other minerals. Calcium is easily leached. Calcium, once deposited in plant tissue, is immobile (non-translocatable) so there must be a constant supply for growth. Deficiency causes stunting of new growth in stems, flowers and roots. Symptoms range from distorted new growth to black spots on leaves and fruit. Yellow leaf margins may also appear.

Interesting FYI:

Every amino acid contains nitrogen.
Every molecule making up every cell's membrane contains phosphorous (the membrane molecules are called phospholipids), and so does every molecule of ATP (the main energy source of all cells).
Potassium makes up 1 percent to 2 percent of the weight of any plant and, as an ion in cells, is essential to metabolism.


Nitrogen...

as NH4:
&#8220;ammonium (NH4)&#8221;

Definition: The ionized form of ammonia, which is occurs when the water is acidic. It is not toxic to fish as ammonia is, which is why aquariums that have acidic water do not have as many problems with the intial phase of the nitrogen cycle.
Ammonium, the most important nitrogenous fertilizer for water plants, is essential for the breakdown of plant protein.

as NO3
Nitrate is the result of the bacterial breakdown of ammonia > nitrite > nitrate which is the final stage of the natural biological metabolic waste conversion also known as the nitrogen cycle.

The process of breaking down ammonia > nitrites > nitrates is known as the nitrification process. It takes place in an aerobic environment. Nitrifying bacteria settle on gravel and build colonies. They need nutrients (ammonia and nitrite) and oxygen in order to perform their tasks. The result is nitrate. The removal of nitrate, if not utilized by plants, takes place in an anaerobic environment and is called denitrification.
Nitrate is also a key nutrient source for algae. Most of the pesky and unwanted algae thrive on poor water quality, high nutrient levels and excessive nitrate. Many initially cycling tanks experience an algae bloom due to this effect.

Some very important information:

Nitrifiers are most active at temperatures ranging from 68 - 86 degrees F. Their metabolism will decrease below 50 degrees F, while levels above 95 degrees F are potentially life threatening.

Nitrifiers need oxygen to perform their task (aerobic respiration). Nitrate is the final product after completion of the biochemical oxidation, which plants utilize as a fertilizer thus removing them from the water.

Nitrifying bacteria work either at full capacity or drift into a resting phase. Major changes in the bioload will effect the bacteria population. Additional bioload may have the effect of a new cycle (adjustment through growth).

The need for light proofing
Nitrifiers are light sensitive, especially toward ultraviolet (UV/ sunlight). Room light has a negative impact on bacterial activity as well. Colonizing the filter is therefore the preferred settlement of the bacteria, as it provides a dark environment. Light exposure (i.e. cleaning the filter) will not cause stress, as the time frame is too short allowing the colony to recuperate within hours.

The nitrifier's colony creates a surrounding, slimy bio-film, as they clutter together. This somewhat protects the settlement from light exposure. Good films smell earthy, if otherwise, it is an indication of problems in the aquatic environment.

Micronutrients


Iron is necessary for many enzyme functions and as a catalyst for the synthesis of chlorophyll. It is essential for the young growing parts of plants. Deficiencies are pale leaf color of young leaves followed by yellowing of leaves and large veins. Iron is lost by leaching and is held in the lower portions of the soil structure. Under conditions of high pH (alkaline) iron is rendered unavailable to plants. When soils are alkaline, iron may be abundant but unavailable. Applications of an acid nutrient formula containing iron chelates, held in soluble form, should correct the problem.

Manganese is involved in enzyme activity for photosynthesis, respiration, and nitrogen metabolism. Deficiency in young leaves may show a network of green veins on a light green background similar to an iron deficiency. In the advanced stages the light green parts become white, and leaves are shed. Brownish, black, or grayish spots may appear next to the veins. In neutral or alkaline soils plants often show deficiency symptoms. In highly acid soils, manganese may be available to the extent that it results in toxicity.

I thought this was very interesting:
Boron is necessary for cell wall formation, membrane integrity, calcium uptake and may aid in the translocation of sugars. Boron affects at least 16 functions in plants. These functions include flowering, pollen germination, fruiting, cell division, water relationships and the movement of hormones. Boron must be available throughout the life of the plant. It is not translocated and is easily leached from soils. Deficiencies kill terminal buds leaving a rosette effect on the plant. Leaves are thick, curled and brittle. Fruits, tubers and roots are discolored, cracked and flecked with brown spots.

Zinc is a component of enzymes or a functional cofactor of a large number of enzymes including auxins (plant growth hormones). It is essential to carbohydrate metabolism, protein synthesis and internodal elongation (stem growth). Deficient plants have mottled leaves with irregular chlorotic areas. Zinc deficiency leads to iron deficiency causing similar symptoms. Deficiency occurs on eroded soils and is least available at a pH range of 5.5 - 7.0. Lowering the pH can render zinc more available to the point of toxicity.

* This would explain why it is best to be at the lower end of the Ph scale for aero... 5.6-5.8

Copper is concentrated in roots of plants and plays a part in nitrogen metabolism. It is a component of several enzymes and may be part of the enzyme systems that use carbohydrates and proteins. Deficiencies cause die back of the shoot tips, and terminal leaves develop brown spots. Copper is bound tightly in organic matter and may be deficient in highly organic soils. It is not readily lost from soil but may often be unavailable. Too much copper can cause toxicity.

Molybdenum is a structural component of the enzyme that reduces nitrates to ammonia. Without it, the synthesis of proteins is blocked and plant growth ceases. Root nodule (nitrogen fixing) bacteria also require it. Seeds may not form completely, and nitrogen deficiency may occur if plants are lacking molybdenum. Deficiency signs are pale green leaves with rolled or cupped margins.

Chlorine is involved in osmosis (movement of water or solutes in cells), the ionic balance necessary for plants to take up mineral elements and in photosynthesis. Deficiency symptoms include wilting, stubby roots, chlorosis (yellowing) and bronzing. Odors in some plants may be decreased. Chloride, the ionic form of chlorine used by plants, is usually found in soluble forms and is lost by leaching. Some plants may show signs of toxicity if levels are too high.

Nickel has just recently won the status as an essential trace element for plants according to the Agricultural Research Service Plant, Soil and Nutrition Laboratory in Ithaca, NY. It is required for the enzyme urease to break down urea to liberate the nitrogen into a usable form for plants. Nickel is required for iron absorption. Seeds need nickel in order to germinate. Plants grown without additional nickel will gradually reach a deficient level at about the time they mature and begin reproductive growth. If nickel is deficient plants may fail to produce viable seeds.

Sodium is involved in osmotic (water movement) and ionic balance in plants.

Cobalt is required for nitrogen fixation in legumes and in root nodules of nonlegumes. The demand for cobalt is much higher for nitrogen fixation than for ammonium nutrition. Deficient levels could result in nitrogen deficiency symptoms.

Silicon is found as a component of cell walls. Plants with supplies of soluble silicon produce stronger, tougher cell walls making them a mechanical barrier to piercing and sucking insects. This significantly enhances plant heat and drought tolerance. Foliar sprays of silicon have also shown benefits reducing populations of aphids on field crops. Tests have also found that silicon can be deposited by the plants at the site of infection by fungus to combat the penetration of the cell walls by the attacking fungus. Improved leaf erectness, stem strength and prevention or depression of iron and manganese toxicity have all been noted as effects from silicon. Silicon has not been determined essential for all plants but may be beneficial for many.
It is my intent to develop the same attraction here as he did on OG and IC Mag. I would like to build a legion of "aeropodders" to help add to the already existing legion. The more the merrier, and the more people can contribute their own knowledge of the art. Save up. Setup, and grow... TAG growing is what I am talking about. The results of a well tuned TAG system should easily annihilate any and all rival forms of growing. It increased rate of growth is unmatched, and can only be beaten out by a better, and finer tuned TAG system. NASA isn't testing and trying to perfect this technique for no reason, it's because a team of rocket scientist feel the same way as the rest of us TAGers feel. And for informational purposes NASA also has an immense amount of "True Aeroponic" information. As immense as it is however I find that POD RACER'S info is more suitable and directed at marijuana.
 

mdgcmd

Well-Known Member
So I was just curious to know what you guys think of all of POD's research. Obviously he has spent LOTS of time with himself lol. I have the utmost respect for his efforts and works discovered.

His work with nutrients uptake and the ratio between the nutrients in regards to uptake are from literally years of research. He has found that DM One is balanced, and design just for aeroponics. It is also part of his belief that they made the "One" series just for marijuana.

Remember guys I love to hear and read your feedback, it is almost like a piece of cake on a pole to me. I find it easier and more excited to hear what you all have to say. I find that people like what I am doing and it encourages me to keep on doing it.
 

email468

Well-Known Member
So I was just curious to know what you guys think of all of POD's research. Obviously he has spent LOTS of time with himself lol. I have the utmost respect for his efforts and works discovered.

His work with nutrients uptake and the ratio between the nutrients in regards to uptake are from literally years of research. He has found that DM One is balanced, and design just for aeroponics. It is also part of his belief that they made the "One" series just for marijuana.

Remember guys I love to hear and read your feedback, it is almost like a piece of cake on a pole to me. I find it easier and more excited to hear what you all have to say. I find that people like what I am doing and it encourages me to keep on doing it.
I think it is very interesting but I am in no position to judge the accuracy - I can barely keep my little aero/bubbler grow going :mrgreen:

I enjoy reading it though and dreaming... someday....
 

email468

Well-Known Member
with that said email, are you going to try dm one?
I figure i have at least a few years of working out the bugs with current system (judging from how long it took me to get something from my little bubbler).

by then maybe we'll all be growing in dixie cups with LED lights :bigjoint:
 
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