Hello fellas i wanted to ask which training techs combination do you recommend for biggest yield possible. At my previous grow i did some topping, lst and defoliation but for some reason the result wasnt good as expected. Im pretty sure its not only because of the stress put on them but also the light i had. But now the setup is more than perfect and the only thing left to do is training them right. So about how to perform i dont need help but just to choose what right for my plants thanks alot !!
Training techs pick help!
- Thread starter Tommor666
- Start date
FastFreddi
Well-Known Member
Top, FIM, LST.
FF
FF
FastFreddi
Well-Known Member
Depends upon your preferred grow style.
I like to be able to fully access my plants, so I don't SCROG, which looks to be very effective.
FF
I like to be able to fully access my plants, so I don't SCROG, which looks to be very effective.
FF
StareCase
Well-Known Member
A rigid frame SCROG grow will give you the highest yield possible since you can fill your entire grow space if you want. But your plants are stationary.
Manifolding is a close second for good yields. You can grow a good sized plant by manifolding and you can still move them around when you need to.
Manifolding is a close second for good yields. You can grow a good sized plant by manifolding and you can still move them around when you need to.
twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
Proper LST alone can give you amazing results.
1dude1seed
Well-Known Member
I’m with Fast Freddi, I like to have my plants mobile. Makes it so much easier for me to tend to all areas of my plants. Which is why I haven’t done a SCROG.
I top and perform LST as needed to maximize light to the lower areas and cut away the lower growth. StareCase is right tho, scrog will give you pretty impressive results in yield. As long as you take care of them.
I top and perform LST as needed to maximize light to the lower areas and cut away the lower growth. StareCase is right tho, scrog will give you pretty impressive results in yield. As long as you take care of them.
StareCase
Well-Known Member
FastFreddi
Well-Known Member
Absolutely, but to do that to more than one....maybe with a gymnasium to grow in.
FF
1dude1seed
Well-Known Member
I’m now aware of that and never thought of it lol. Still more than I’d like to mess with, especially with more than one plant. Looks great though!
StareCase
Well-Known Member
1dude1seed
Well-Known Member
Right on. Still more than I wanna fuck with lol
StareCase
Well-Known Member
It's a 2' x 2' net and both ladies are flowered in a 2 x 4 x 5.
FastFreddi
Well-Known Member
You are doing awesome, and I meant no foul by it....doesn't fit my style of growing is all.
Peace.
FF
StareCase
Well-Known Member
Not offended FF. The pics were to highlight that a sturdy frame SCROG can travel. It might stir someone's creativity ...
mc130p
Well-Known Member
you could definitely modify this so that the frame sits on, and is attached to the bucket top, making it completely mobile
StareCase
Well-Known Member
They are completely mobile now.
I did consider using tomato cages to secure the frame to the buckets. But I thought that additional metal posts between the bucket and frame might get in the way of lollipopping/watering and decided to pass on that idea. A 2 square foot 1" wood trim net is lightweight and the branches that are woven during veg become rigid enough to secure the net. One large alligator clip on each pole helps keep the nets level once they reach the Bloom Room.
mc130p
Well-Known Member
didn't you mean the Bloom Bloom Room?
Richard Drysift
Well-Known Member
Scrog netting increases yields but it’s not the only way to max out your plants. Never liked training on a screen because mobility is limited and I move the plants around a lot. I use a different training method popularly known as monster cropping. Mind you this shit is not for noobs looking for fast buds. This is for the OG grower who has the patience, adequate space, and equipment for maximum yields. Monster cropping can easily double yields if done right; usually worth the extra time and effort.
It starts in early veg phase with lighting that is adequately intense to induce tight nodal spacing. No long spaces in between lateral branches. Top/FIM to achieve multiple tops; pinching in between nodes to fatten the stems. Bending down the tallest colas (LST) to favor the lower branches will help induce them to become new colas. An oscillating fan keeps them swaying and strengthens nodal branching.
When photoperiod plants reach sexual maturity; (say 7+ weeks from seed) it is time to begin sexing. A gradual transition to bloom mimics the suns natural cycle and reduces stretching which makes fat bushy plants. The buds will develop into golf ball sized nuggets. Even if you don’t monster crop later on gradually reducing hours of light before flipping to full on bloom phase makes fat buds; also a great way to sex out plants.
Lower the amount of light gradually; one or two hours per week. If you started at 18/6 go to 17/7 for a week, then 16/8 and so on. At 15/9 most strains go into like a preflower mode and grow bushy. When most strains reach about 14/11 or less they begin to show sex. Cull the boys. Put the girls back into 18/6 for 2-3 weeks once sex is confirmed.
From here you can flip to final 12/12 for the duration until the bud is ripe or decide to veg even longer for a bigger pull. You’ll notice how doing this virtually eliminates stretching and makes fat bushy plants with multiple nodal areas where buds grow. The colas eventually become donkey dick shaped spires of solid bud.
It starts in early veg phase with lighting that is adequately intense to induce tight nodal spacing. No long spaces in between lateral branches. Top/FIM to achieve multiple tops; pinching in between nodes to fatten the stems. Bending down the tallest colas (LST) to favor the lower branches will help induce them to become new colas. An oscillating fan keeps them swaying and strengthens nodal branching.
When photoperiod plants reach sexual maturity; (say 7+ weeks from seed) it is time to begin sexing. A gradual transition to bloom mimics the suns natural cycle and reduces stretching which makes fat bushy plants. The buds will develop into golf ball sized nuggets. Even if you don’t monster crop later on gradually reducing hours of light before flipping to full on bloom phase makes fat buds; also a great way to sex out plants.
Lower the amount of light gradually; one or two hours per week. If you started at 18/6 go to 17/7 for a week, then 16/8 and so on. At 15/9 most strains go into like a preflower mode and grow bushy. When most strains reach about 14/11 or less they begin to show sex. Cull the boys. Put the girls back into 18/6 for 2-3 weeks once sex is confirmed.
From here you can flip to final 12/12 for the duration until the bud is ripe or decide to veg even longer for a bigger pull. You’ll notice how doing this virtually eliminates stretching and makes fat bushy plants with multiple nodal areas where buds grow. The colas eventually become donkey dick shaped spires of solid bud.
HydroKid239
Well-Known Member
Do it however you want, but go for an even canopy.
I topped 16 branches the last time I topped her. She’s a little beast. Nothin but dildos growing on those branches. Lol
FastFreddi
Well-Known Member
Beautiful job.
FF
