These Fans Are The Real Deal !!

jnuggs said:

I purchased the 4" 100 and was pleased with the air movement and quietness of the unit. So I purchased the 200 but I can't seem to wire it! I don't understand the thing. If anyone has the 200, not the 200x and has successfully wired it, please please help! Thank you!

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rofl

I have the 200x. This is from the install pdf file:

http://www.hvacquick.com/catalog_files/solerpalau_TD_IOM.pdf?PHPSESSID=nm8ig6hvb9gfmkchs718ldkc31

Models TD 100, 100x, 125, 150 & 200x are double insulated and are not provided with external ground wire.

My 200x doesn't have the green (ground) wire shown in the diagram but yours should. I'm not sure what the wiring looks like on yours but I'm pretty sure it's going to have the correct wires as shown in the diagram on the pdf file.

So you should have 4 wires coming out of the motor housing. Black (hi-speed), brown (lo-speed), yellow/green (ground) and white (common). My 200x has 2 extra wires coming out of the motor which connect to a large ass capacitor which sits in the housing. I don't have the ground wire on mine because they are double insulated as stated above.

These wires should be plugged into a small plastic holder with tiny screws to hold the wires in place. You need to get a grounded computer power cord or something like it. They sell them at Home Depot with the one end already cut off and the wires bare....I forgot the name of them. I like them cause they are fat and wont be a fire hazzard.

Once you get the cord just match the wire colors.............basically. I hope you have basic electrical wiring skills. White goes to white.....green goes to yellow/green, and the black wire on your new cord will go to either the black or brown wire for the motor speed.

Always use proper gauge cords for your amp usage.

Here are a few pics of mine. I have the capacitor too. I have no green/yellow wire! I have basic wiring skills. I wired the S&P 100 just fine. I tried wiring white to white, black to black, and white to white black to brown..leaving the ground on my computer cord dangling.

I can vouch for these too, they're the dogs bollocks.

jnuggs said:

Here are a few pics of mine. I have the capacitor too. I have no green/yellow wire! I have basic wiring skills. I wired the S&P 100 just fine. I tried wiring white to white, black to black, and white to white black to brown..leaving the ground on my computer cord dangling.

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This may sound dumb but how did you wire it? Also, take a look at the motor once more. There should be a sticker on it saying if it is the 200 or 200x. Sometimes people play games with you. My 200x came in a metal casing which is supposed to be the 200 but the motor itself has the plastic casing and says "TYPE - TD200x". I'm sending mine back because the fucker is WAYYYY too powerful. Much more so than they say it is.

Either way, the wiring in your pic shows that you don't have the ground wire so dont worry about it. The motor should have double insulation.

Your pictures look exactly like mine so this should be easy.

Look at picture #3 that you posted. The wires are plugged into that plastic casing. If you look at the plastic casing from above do you see the six little screws there? 3 of those screws are holding the motor wires in place (Black, brown and white). Not sure where your ground wire is but I would bet that you have a 200x and not a 200.

The other 3 screws on the opposite side are holding nothing. Find a very tiny screwdriver and loosen those 3 screws up. Then you can do your wiring. White to white and black to HI or LOW speed. Cut off or lay back your ground wire. Make sure your wires are touching thru the small holes you put them thru and tighten those tiny screws up. Pull on the wires gently to make sure they are in good.

Now you can do your tests. If it still dont work you would need to get a voltmeter to see if it's the motor or not.

Good luck with the 200. I think you will find it much louder than than you thought it would be. It's not as loud as a 750 cfm 8" vortex but it's still a load. I would compare it to a 6" can fan at full speed. They run around 6 sones which aint too bad.

The 6" TD-150 is very good IMO. Much quieter than the 200 and can still pull a ton of air even on low speed. I compared the 150 with my bathroom fan and they are almost even. I did quite a few tests. Some from up close and some from 3 rooms down.

I'll finish this in a minute.

I bought both the 150 and 200x just to do tests. I already own a 4" can-fan, a 6" eco plus high output and an 8" high output vortex. If I were to do a sound comparison test I would use this link to go by for Sone values: http://www.canfilters.com/fan_metal_home.html

Look at the right side of the chart. Can-fan lists the sone values of all their fans. If you are in a Home Depot one day, go to the bathroom fan aisle and do a test yourself with their fans. All of the fans their have sone values on them. You can really hear a major difference between a sone value of 2 and a sone value of 4. 2 is ok but 4 starts to get a bit loud.

Of course loudness depends on how stealthy you want your room to be. I want mine to be super quiet so I'm looking for sone values at ear level to be between 1 and 2. This way someone in my house will not hear my fans even if they were standing in front of the closed grow room door and was having a conversation with me. You would hear a slight hum standing outside my door only if everything was totally quiet. This would equate to about 1 to 1.5 sones.

For super quiet I would definitely go with Panasonic whisperlines. The 6" I have for my super stealth bedroom veg room fucking owns all. It keeps a 400 watt mh at room temp. My room is a 4 x 4 x 6.5 tent. I could put a 600 watt in there and it would stay room temp with that fan. With the 400 I can keep my hand right on the glass. The 6" is rated at 1.4 sones and let me tell you this, I can barely hear the wind rushing from my bed only 5 feet away. If I used insulated flex it would prolly go away all together. Damn crickets outside my window are 10 times as loud as my whiperline.

I'm stoned. Dont know why I bother writing so much.

I can prolly give every single fan a sone value by now. The 4" can-fan is prolly around 5 sones. The 6" hi-speed eco is prolly around 12 sones.....has a very whiny sound and the 8" hi-speed vortex is prolly the same or a bit less as the 6". Maybe between 10 to 12 sones but no whiny noise. More like a jet engine roar lol.

I would rate the TD-150 at about 2.5 to 3 sones. It was almost equal to my bathroom fan which is 2.5 sones. The TD-200x is way louder but not near the 6" eco or 8" vortex. I would give it a value of around 7 or 8 sones. Much too loud for my liking but others who don't mind sound would love this thing. It's a mule and can pull a ton of air. You don't need any of those big assed fans for a small job and these things fit anywhere.

I tried both fans out on my Can-filter 33. Do me a favor, check out the specs real carefully for both items. The filter says it's rated at .75 for max pressure. The 150 says it can barely pull 50 cfm (LS) at .75. The 200x says it can barely pull 215 cfm (LS) at .75 pressure. This is all according to their spec sheets.

After a lot of research I found 2 different spec sheets for the TD-series fans. I will post them here: http://www.hvacquick.com/catalog_files/solerpalau_TD_Catalog.pdf?PHPSESSID=nlsj7q7ioalq99u0mj55u8sm42

and http://www.kitchensource.com/range-hoods/pdf/td-specifications.pdf

In all honesty I think the second link has the more accurate specs. They show the fans being quite a bit more powerful and I will have to agree 100%.

I sat the 200x right on top of my Can-filter 33 and that baby just blasted away. Easily pulling way more than 300 cfm. The specs in the second link match more closely with what I think is the right amount of cfm. I also mounted the 200x in other places but still found it much too loud to be used for my purposes. Oh, I forgot to add that I did this wired in Low Speed.

I aslo sat the 150 on my Can-filter 33. VERY pleasing sound levels. It pulled a ton of air even set at low speed. I wish I could measure how much exactly was coming out but I would have to say it was easily over 100 cfm. This was also wired on LS. This seems to beat the specs from the second link. These fans are way stronger than advertised...........at least the 150 and 200 are.

I need to do a few more tests on temp changes and air flow. I'll get back here another time

+rep Hotwired. I appreciate it very much. I don't feel that I'm incapable of wiring this thing. I even had an electrician(friend) look at this thing. The casing is metal, but the motor housing is plastic. It says TD-200. I got this instead of the 200x cuz I didn't understand why the 200x moved less air for a bit more money. I've hooked it up white to white and black to black, and black to brown both. I can feel the motor hum a little with my hand on it when plugged in, but the fan propeller doesn't move. I'm starting to think this thing is junk and I'm out a chunk of change which really sucks!!! I was looking to flower sometime in the next week or so but there's no way I can keep my light cool enough without having the door open while running. I think the TD-100 is good for bringing air into my space, but not enough to pull it over a 6 foot length of ducting. dang.

If all else fails call S&P. There should be a phone number on that sticker that shows you it's a 200. Ask for some help and maybe someone can talk you thru it. Wont hurt at all.

If they ask what application you are using the fan for just tell them it's going to be installed in your attic as your range exhaust fan.

Do I just repackage it and send it back n' say I meant to get the 200x? or what? Even with a possibly fried motor?

i would just tell them the motor is fried.

Hey Grenfranco, how loud are these whisper fans? I am looking at trying the 10" model which is rated 500CFM for $35. I am not using any ductwork or carbon filter, just need something in the ceiling to push air out a 6" opening to the outside.

genfranco said:

Not to be an ass or anything... but i think that everyone that buys those bog ol things are fools unless your growing a room with LOOOONNNNGGGG duct work..

i only used these type of fans for my cab and i am using a 400 watt hps.... my temps are roughly about 3 or 4 higher inside under the lights than outside my cab.... well i had to use a few... but mine where not rated this high either... i used 4" square one.....

6" Flat Whisper Fan - 230CFM

Hope this helps the guys running small operations..

oh yeah ...they are 19.99 ...lol

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BudsyMalone said:

Hey Grenfranco, how loud are these whisper fans? I am looking at trying the 10" model which is rated 500CFM for $35. I am not using any ductwork or carbon filter, just need something in the ceiling to push air out a 6" opening to the outside.

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yeah those would work ... You could also look at those bathroom exhaust fans... they have some pretty silent ones and they work great.

bump. That 10" for $35 is super cheap if one could cool the 400w, one could exhause air, and one for intake. Would they be powerful enough to cool a 400w hps?

hotwired would you go with the S&P TD-150, or the Panasonic Whisper 240cfm at 1.4 Sones(the 6" model) Which would be best to use with the can filter 33. Also, do you think the can 33 is big enough for a 5x5x8(length, depth, height)??
1st is the Panasonic, 2nd is the filter I'm talkin about. Or do you think the 3rd, an ozone generator, would be better than the carbon filter for my room?
http://www.waveplumbing.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=55_80&products_id=159

http://www.hidhut.com/catalog/can-filter-33-includes-flange-p-1585.html

http://www.nehydro.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=46&zenid=94b4e40d89dfcde0862a146e0cb970d1

jnuggs said:

hotwired would you go with the S&P TD-150, or the Panasonic Whisper 240cfm at 1.4 Sones(the 6" model) Which would be best to use with the can filter 33. Also, do you think the can 33 is big enough for a 5x5x8(length, depth, height)??
1st is the Panasonic, 2nd is the filter I'm talkin about. Or do you think the 3rd, an ozone generator, would be better than the carbon filter for my room?
http://www.waveplumbing.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=55_80&products_id=159

http://www.hidhut.com/catalog/can-filter-33-includes-flange-p-1585.html

http://www.nehydro.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=46&zenid=94b4e40d89dfcde0862a146e0cb970d1

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My pick for the fan would be the TD-150.

First let's discuss your filter needs. Your tent is 5 x 5 x 8 which equates to 200 cubic feet of air. So, imo, you really only need a Can-filter 9000 to take care of that space but a 33 will work if you have the space.

My reasons for picking the 150 over the Whisperline is because the Whisperlines are great for sucking just air alone. My 6", like the one you posted the link on, just sucks air out of my reflector in the tent. It keeps the room at house temp with a 400 watt mh.

They don't like to have a hard time pulling air through filters and such. They break down faster. The 150 has much more power and has 2 speed settings so you can do without a speed controller. Damn things add so much hum to the motor it drives me nuts.

If you are only going to use 1 fan for the whole tent I would wire the 150 on low speed and pull thru both a refelector and a Can-filter 9000. Do a test run for temps, then wire the 150 in hi-speed if you need more airflow to make it cooler.

I am not a fan of ozone gens.

lol nice.......

if I knew how to add rep anymore I would! I don't know if I like this new setup RIU has..hopefully I have better luck with the 150 than I did with the 200. I have the TD-100, and some cheap 8" inline duct booster. So I could do the 150 for the filter and light, and use the 100 for intake. That might work pretty well.
My only concern is the can-9000 says Max cfm: 118/200m³/h @ 0.1 sec contact time. Even the can-33 says Max cfm: 200/350m³/h @ 0.1 sec
contact time.
So is the TD-150 going to create too much air?

jnuggs said:

if I knew how to add rep anymore I would! I don't know if I like this new setup RIU has..

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The admins have forever tarnished my rep so it doesn't matter anymore

Just kidding admins!!

jnuggs said:

hopefully I have better luck with the 150 than I did with the 200. I have the TD-100, and some cheap 8" inline duct booster. So I could do the 150 for the filter and light, and use the 100 for intake. That might work pretty well.

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It might but what may be better is no intake at all. The 150 will pull thru the filter/light and the air will be replaced by the air outside the tent. The 150 will create NEGATIVE pressure in your tent. This means that no air will escape your tent and air will only come in from outside the tent.

jnuggs said:

My only concern is the can-9000 says Max cfm: 118/200m³/h @ 0.1 sec contact time. Even the can-33 says Max cfm: 200/350m³/h @ 0.1 sec
contact time.

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Check this out.....with the idea I gave you above.....you can keep the 100 for another use and make your tent kick ass. You can separate the filter/light combo and use the 150, wired on low speed, just for the light alone. Then stick the 100 on top of a Can-filter 9000, exhaust that out to the same place the light is going, and you are set.

You can still pull about 70 - 80 cfm out of the 9000 with the 100. According to this spec sheet: http://www.kitchensource.com/range-hoods/pdf/td-specifications.pdf

You can pull about 70 - 80 cfm at about .2 sp. The 9000 is not rated @ .75 sp. The 33 is rated @.75 sp. I believe the 9000 is actually rated at .2 sp.

jnuggs said:

So is the TD-150 going to create too much air?

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Not at all. Especially when placed in a duct run. If you use both fans like I advised your room should remain cool. The 150 will keep the light cool and the 100 will replace the air in your tent every 3 minutes plus suck out any heat made by the light.

You have 200 cf of air in the tent - 70 cfm x 3 = 210 cf in 3 minutes. So don't worry if the 9000 isnt moving a lot of air......it's still cleaning it and replacing old air with fresh air. The 150 is the important air mover as it is the one keeping the light "cooler".

What is the temp outside of your tent? Mine is 77 and it stays 77 in the tent.

like hotwired sad td-150, and a can 33. I wouldn't go smaller in filter or fan if were you personally. And I ouldnt put the 100 as an input, i would do passive. 100cfm is slower than the 180-200 you ill be exhausting.

I have a can 2900, 33 and a 200x and 100. I am building a new cab and i ill be using 600 hps with a can 33 and td-150.

My 200x is overkill in my current cab, as i have one for the lights and another for the carbon filter in my current cab because of c02,

jnuggs said:

bump. That 10" for $35 is super cheap if one could cool the 400w, one could exhause air, and one for intake. Would they be powerful enough to cool a 400w hps?

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hell yeah it would be enough.... The problem would be hooking up a 10" - 8" conversion vent deal.. Why dont oyu just buy the 4 inch ones for 20$ put one on one side sucking air in from the area...in through the light.. then another on the other end sucking air out of the hood...


my light is a 400 hps and i have 4 cfls hanging down also for the blue light...

A 4" for 20 bucks,,,,,, where?????????