THELOADEDDRAGON'S Perpetually growing perpetual grow

They are stable enough to cross, but you are going to want to backcross to stabalize your new line

wow. just read up on backcrossing and now i realize how complicated things really are. from what i took in, i need to cross my male blueb w/ fem o.g. then, from those seeds i select a male to cross again with the original mom. is this anywhere near right? sorry to ask simple questions on your journal..... feel like i'm in grade-school learning how to add 1+1 lol.

PainWrek said:

wow. just read up on backcrossing and now i realize how complicated things really are. from what i took in, i need to cross my male blueb w/ fem o.g. then, from those seeds i select a male to cross again with the original mom. is this anywhere near right? sorry to ask simple questions on your journal..... feel like i'm in grade-school learning how to add 1+1 lol.

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I was just trying to figure this out as well after I read TLDs comment. And then the product of those seeds would be stable? So would that strain remain clone only at that point?

sometimes genetics don't mix perfectly...... yes going back and breeding again either with the original mother or father (typically the mother, but at times it is advantageous to use the original pollen from the original father to breed with your first generation of seeds, depending on the strain and what you are going for), once you back cross you will see certain traits occur more certainly and more often per seed than your original batch...... Breeding is a whole world of its own, and I have only dabbled here and there, learning as much as I can along the way (4 successful crosses in the past, using three strains, I have done 2 back crosses, and gotten one stable strain, "lone mist", but I ran out of seeds )......

theloadeddragon said:

sometimes genetics to mix perfectly...... yes going back and breeding again either with the original mother or father (typically the mother, but at times it is advantageous to use the original pollen from the original father to breed with your first generation of seeds, depending on the strain and what you are going for), once you back cross you will see certain traits occur more certainly and more often per seed than your original batch...... Breeding is a whole world of its own, and I have only dabbled here and there, learning as much as I can along the way (4 successful crosses in the past, using three strains, I have done 2 back crosses, and gotten one stable strain, "lone mist", but I ran out of seeds )......

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One day when I am old and retired I might then have time and money to breed. For right now it remains a wish.

theloadeddragon said:

sometimes genetics don't mix perfectly...... yes going back and breeding again either with the original mother or father (typically the mother, but at times it is advantageous to use the original pollen from the original father to breed with your first generation of seeds, depending on the strain and what you are going for), once you back cross you will see certain traits occur more certainly and more often per seed than your original batch...... Breeding is a whole world of its own, and I have only dabbled here and there, learning as much as I can along the way (4 successful crosses in the past, using three strains, I have done 2 back crosses, and gotten one stable strain, "lone mist", but I ran out of seeds )......

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I am with Bender on this one. I will let pros like you experiment and create the strains and then I will buy them. lol

from what I read, it said (i think) , it can take 2 or 3 backcrosses to the original mum to create a 50/50 bb/og..... under what circumstances could i use the advantage of pollinating the first gen seeds with the original father? i would like to keep the o.g. stature, with some blueberry flavor. which crossing methods would achieve the results i'm looking for?

try to match the characteristics in phenotypes as closely together as you can in the two parents (large pool of say 30 plants, 15 male 15 female, pick TWO, one mother one father, that each display the characteristics you are looking for

If the first set of seeds were to come out with traits that are dominant that are undesirable, backcross it with which ever parent showed more desirable traits (and most importantly consistency in those traits)..... sometimes it can take quite a few sets to get a stabilize strain out of just two parents......... sometimes it is necessary to bring in relative strains, or grandparent strains, etc. etc. to get the desired results

damn, that's def a whole different world... I was completely unaware of backcrossing... lol

yes well.... the nutrient selection that seeding mother plants gets is a little different too, and a few other things..... it is a whole world inside of growing ..... and Like I said I have only dabbled on a few occasions..... soaking up as much info on the way

I may get to do a breeding journal on here yet..... sometime at the end of 2010?

that'd be sick. have you tried Mother Plant? I was talking to the chick in my store and she said "it's the hottest new thing. only nutes specifically for mothers"

A few bits of info on Cannabis Breeding

In common with orchids and prize roses, Cannabis seeds strains are grown and crossbred by botanists to create new cannabis breeds with different characteristics. The most important characteristics manipulated through crossbreeding are size of plant, bud to leaf ratio, yield, taste, effect and acclimatisation to western growing conditions.
Sativa/Indica Differences
There are two main varieties of Cannabis found in the world: Cannabis sativa and Cannabis indica. Cannabis sativa (the ganja variety - see below right) is a large “pine-tree like” plant with light green foliage. It is indigenous to Mexico, Columbia, Thailand, India, and Africa.
Cannabis Indica (the hashish variety- see below left), on the other hand, is a smaller plant with wide, dark green foliage. It matures earlier and produces more potent, fatter, resinous flowers. Cannabis indica is indigenous to the high northern mountain ranges of the Afghani Hindu Kush, Pakistani Kara Korams, Russian Pamirs and Indian Himalayas.
There are many strains of each of the Cannabis varieties.
Until the last few decades there had been very little crossbreeding of these Cannabis varieties because of this natural geographic segregation. However, in the 1960s and 70s seeds from different strains of the two varieties were collected from around the world. The strains were crossbred by fertilising isolated flowers from one variety with pollen from a strain of the other variety, creating offspring strains that were superior to the parents in terms of resistance to disease, yield, and levels of THC (the psychoactive ingredient in Cannabis), and could be grown better in northern latitudes.
Sacred Seeds - Cannabis Crossbreeding Pioneers
Sacred Seeds, established in 1976, was the first ever Cannabis seed company in the world. Sacred Seeds followed the practice of selecting and crossbreeding pure strains to create new strains known as ‘hybrids’. They then stabilized these strains to allow them to breed true to type if reproduced from seeds of the same strain. The most famous of these hybrids ever produced was Skunk No. 1, AKA "The Pure".
Sacred Seeds, and Cultivators Choice, the company that followed it, were the first companies to cross the indica and sativa varieties of Cannabis. Crossing the two varieties produced larger, healthier, more disease-resistant plants with a sweet, potent, synergistic taste and smoke.
HybridA term used to describe strains produced by crossbreeding two different “true-breeding” strains.True-breeding strains will produce true to type if reproduced from their own seeds, so different generations will share similar characteristics. True-breeding strains are either:
Pure-bredstraditional land races that have only interbred with similar strains and so have almost identical genesStabilized HybridsHybrids that have been created by breeders but then continually inbred until their characteristics are stabilized from generation to generation. There are very few strains of stabilized hybrids as the process takes a number of generations, over several years, to achieve.“F1” denotes that the seeds or plants have two true-breeding parents. The crossing of F1 hybrid strains produces plants whose characteristics won’t be the same as the original true-breeding parents, though they may share some. Plant quality is lost because the variation in genes is extended and making it less easy to foresee characteristics. The process is endless; F2s can be bred with other F2s creating F3s, with a further loss of quality.

Thanks for the info TLD..... someday I will be giving breeding a try.....

Let me begin with explaining the difference of home produced seeds and marijuana seeds you can buy from reputable seedbank. At home you have at most 20 plants to choose father and mother plant from. You have been watching your seed parent plants for one generation only, meaning their lifetime at your grow place. At seedbanks breeders sex and watch plants for at least 3 generations and from every generation plants which is usually around 100 plants they choose the best 10 for the next generation seeds. These way proffesional genetics become extraordinary stable, very viable and with high thc potency. Do not expect the same stability, viability and potency from your home grow marijuana seeds. But, anyway, your seeds will germinate and grow into plants you will be proud of

http://www.1stmarijuanagrowerspage.com/ganja-dwarf-lowrider-lowryder-marijuana-seeds-strain.html
Let's say you have 5 plants in your home grow place, one of them is male and 4 are females. You want to sacrifice the male and your most beautiful female for seed production. Remember to move away your seeds plants into a pollen tight room, because you don't want your other females to become pollinated . They must remain sinsemilla to produce nice potent buds for you.
Now when the time comes for your male to release pollen, collect it by placing a plastic sheet under male pot. Shake the male or wait a few days for pollen to fall. The male should show desirable characteristics, like fast growth, potency and resistance to pest and mold. Black paper or plastic bag can also be used to collect pollen. In a few days the paper will have quite a bit of pollen on it. The pollen can be stored in film canisters until it is needed. When your female is ready to become pollinated, use a paintbrush to brush on the pollen to the LOWER branches of the female. The female is ready around a week after the male releases pollen. The best way to be sure that all the seeds are mature before harvest is to just never harvest the female. Let your female die naturally so you can be sure it produces viable, ripe marijuana seeds for your next crop.
Your first generation of seeds can grow nice plants, but remember using the first generation to make seeds again can and will produce weak inbreed plants unless you can grow 2 separate genetic lines of parent plants.
The main thing to remember is that breeding is an art and a science. Even the most experienced breeders find it difficult to stabilize their strains. Many strains become unstable as they are bred, revealing unexpected traits that can be traced back many generations.
Professional seed breeders spend a lifetime recording every detail of plant development and post-harvest characteristics. They record growth rates, disease resistance, flowering duration, psychoactive effects. They test breeds under different conditions, trying to match genetics with environmental conditions to ensure optimum yield and health. They pick and choose favorable characteristics from different strains and then cross-breed these strains seeking to develop super-plants which have the cerebral high of a Sativa combined with the short-season hardiness, yield, height and narcotic stoniness of an Indica. Then, they seek to develop stability in their strains so purchasers can expect, within a reasonable degree of variation, predictable results crop after crop.
Breeding is a creative combination of hard work, record-keeping, horticulture and genetics, but it's worth it. Marijuana botanists have given us dozens of varieties of distinctive cannabis. You can do it too, just let them have sex

CANNABIS BREEDING
SEX
In the cell core of a marijuana plant are 10 couples of chromosomes present. One of these couples will determine if the plant will be a male or a female. When the plant has two X-chromosomes it will be a female and if it has an X and Y-chromosome then it will be a male. The sex of the plant will be determined at the moment of fertilization. On this moment the female chromosomes will link with the chromosomes of the male. If the male chromosome that determines the sex of the plant is an X-chromosome then the plant will be a female and otherwise it will be a male. But the development of the plant is not completely determined by the presence of X and Y chromosomes. Also outsides circumstances can have an influence on this and because of these external circumstances a female plant can bloom like a male and visa versa.
PROPERTIES
At the moment of fertilization the chromosomes of the female will connect with the chromosomes of the male. In this way 10 couples of chromosomes are created. On everyone of these chromosomes a number of genes a situated. The two chromosomes that make a couple have genes on the same places (loci). Such a gene on a locus consists of a property (allele). These properties (alleles) determine how the plant will look, grow, smell, bloom, and so on. If now on both chromosomes of a couple, the same property (allele) will be at the same place (locus), then the plant will show this property. In this case is said that the plant homozygous is for this property. If we have to do with different alleles then the dominant allele will determine the property while the property of the recessive allele will remain hidden. The plant is then heterozygous for this property.
TRUE BREEDING
If you buy a package of seeds and let nature do its way, then of course you will have offspring. And if you let these children have children, and so on........ In most cases the plants will start to look differently. Brothers and sisters will not look alike anymore. But in the event that the children continue to look like their parents we speak about a "true breeding strain". True breeding arises if the plant is homozygous on the important properties. This can happen by natural selection or by selective breeding. In both cases plants are taken away that do not meet the requirements. If the work has been done by natural selection then we talk about a "pure bred". These kind of plants then grow in a certain region. But normally we have to do with stabilized hybrids (products of crossbreeding). Known (more or less) true breeding strains that are developed by selective cultivation are: Skunk # 1, Haze and Shit.
INBREEDING
If you want to preserve the properties of a certain plant, very often this is done by inbreeding. By just backcrossing the children with the mother and later grandmother, these children will more and more look like the mother. After 6 times of backcrossing the plant will look very much like the (grand, grand.....) grandmother, whereas after 20 time of backcrossing the new plant will be genetically almost identical to the (grand, grand.....) grandmother. A much-made error is that growers think that in this way they will create a plant that will be on all important points homozygous and therefore true breeders. This is not the case! The plant that is created will genetically be like the (grand, grand.....) grandmother. And if this grandmother was no true breeder her offspring will also not be like this. If you want to create a stable line you need to use selective breeding for a number of generations.
HYBRID
By crossing two not related plants you will create a hybrid. These newly created plants are called F1. If the F1 plants are backcrossed to the mother then their offspring often will be called F2. Also F1 crossings between brothers and sisters are called F2 and sometimes even crossings between F1 plants of different lines are called F2. I presume however that, in most cases when breeders are talking about a F6, they mean by this that the plant was backcrossed for 6 generations, this to reinforce the properties of the mother. But be aware, this plant will probably not be stable. Even not if it is a F20. What you best can do is to select the plants that you like the most and use their clones for growing and blooming.
THE STRENGTH OF THE HYBRID (HYBRID VIGOR)
With "HYBRID VIGOR" is meant something like the strength of the hybrid. This is however only the case with a crossing of two stable plant lines (the plant is then on important properties homozygous and therefore true breeding). The F1 plants that you produce in this way will be all identical and very strong. Because of this, an enormous improvement on certain characteristics can arise. So it can be for example that these F1 plants grow much more rapidly or produce bigger buds then their parents. Another advantage of this F1 is that all plants will be identical. Selection of the best plants is of course not needed anymore. The strength of the hybrid will however decrease if you go on with breeding. A F2 is therefore qualitatively lesser then the F1. This because of the recessive alleles that nicely hided in the F1 and can come forward in the F2. Furthermore the offspring of F1 plants will no longer be identical.
FERTILIZING
Fertilizing the females is best done when the buds are entirely formed (but the "hairs" should still be white). In this way you get the biggest amount of seeds. When the right moment is there, it is sufficient to place one blooming male plant in the room. In the case that you only want a limited number of seeds then you can also fertilize for example one single branch. You have to gather the pollen of the male plant and put them in a paper sack. After this, you put the paper sack over a branch of a female plant and close it completely, so no pollen can escape. Shake the branch with the sack now considerable. After this you have to wait approximately for two hours before shaking the sack again. A couple hours later you can remove the sack and within two weeks you will see that the development of the seeds has started. In about three to six weeks the seeds will be ripe. A in this way fertilized branch can contain hundreds of seeds.

How to create amazing new marijuana seeds strains with a discerning palate, careful selection and some hard work.
Perhaps the most important aspect to consider in the breeding of fine quality cannabis seeds is that of selection. Selective breeding is where all of today's varieties evolved from.
In the past, this chore was made easier by the fact that most of the commercially available herb was seeded and imported from outdoor plantations, usually near-equatorial in origin. These "land-race" Sativa varieties were the building blocks of the burgeoning domestic cannabis seeds productions of the times.
The Indica marijuana strains (Afghan, Kush, Skunk, etc.) genetics were specially imported by West Coast interests and available to the general public around 1978. It was shortly after this time that the variance of domestic cannabis increased exponentially, as people began experimenting with crossing these two different types of pot.
Beginning breeding of cannabis seeds
The typical way to begin a breeding program is to carefully select P1 parents of pure Sativa and pure Indica marijuana seeds strains, crossing them to produce an f1 hybrid that is uniform in its phenotypic growth patterns. The next step is the crossing of the f1 type with itself, which produces a very wide variation witnessed in the f2 growth patterns and expressions.
It is in this f2 second-generational cross and beyond that the art of selection really comes into play. There are a number of factors to consider at this point, such as what the male and female will each contribute; and most of all, what will the overall quality of the finished product be like?
Defining a goal and constructing a plan to accomplish it is called "top-down" programming, and this "top-down" approach applies well to cannabis seeds breeding. It helps considerably to have a specific goal in mind when attempting to selectively breed a variety of ganja. This simple fact I cannot emphasize enough.
One must at least have an idea of what one is aiming for before beginning. For me this has little to do with plant structure and much to do with the quality of the finished product, no matter what form it is in. Having an experienced and educated palate (both mentally aesthetic and physically discernable) is key in the art of breeding fine quality cannabis strains and producing the best marijuana seeds.
The "goal" at the center of most of my marijuana seeds breeding targets would be to replicate, as near as possible, the experiences produced by the great land-race varieties of old: Highland Oaxacan or Thai, Santa Marta or Acapulco Gold, Guerrero Green, Panama Red or Hawaiian Sativa or the hash from regions such as Lebanon, Afghanistan or Nepal.
The indoor grow environment is too generic to fully replicate the great old legends. Therefore, it was necessary to settle for the next best thing: happy Sativa/Indica crosses that would perform well indoors. (It is interesting to note here that most of the fine land-race Sativa were hermaphroditic, though sometimes only minimally.)
Selection process
Obviously, you seek the parents that will produce the desired progeny. Paradoxically, this process requires selecting the best after they've been harvested. The solution is to keep samples from each plant of a test crop. This can be done via rooted clones from earlier cuttings, or re-greened mothers and fathers kept in a vegetative state and a high-nitrogen diet. Once you have chosen among the harvested plants, you can use the rooted cuttings for future consideration and possible breeding.
Pollen may also be gathered and immediately stored via vacuum sealing and deep-freezing. It is crucial to vacuum seal and freeze pollen immediately after it is collected and to use stored pollen immediately after it thaws. Dry cannabis seeds also store well over indefinite periods of time in an undisturbed deep-freeze, with some desiccant.
This process of post-harvest selection works fine for selecting desired female plants. But what about males? What is the best and most simple way to select males for breeding? Due to the fact that it is the female plants that we are ultimately familiar with, selecting males is a bit more involved.
The process is basically the same as it is with female plants, except with males the numbers are first limited down via a process of elimination, and selections made by comparing the remainder. Selecting males also takes a little more time initially as the quality of the male is not fully determined until after the cannabi seeds it produces are grown out and tested. As one becomes more familiar with a particular strain, the specific characteristics of the desirable males become apparent.
Ideally, the more marijuana seeds one starts with the better. This is, after all, a numbers game. I will assume that any basic breeding project starts with at least 20 different plants, from 20 viable marijuana seeds of high quality, professionally stabilized varieties. This would give a minimum of 10 male and 10 female plants hopefully sexed by two weeks into a flowering light cycle (short day/long night). Don't save on seeds, using quality marijuana seeds is essential.
Once sexed, the process of elimination may begin. All of the females are kept and regularly examined to prevent unwanted hermaphroditism. Unwanted males and all hermaphrodites must be eliminated before they begin to shed pollen usually by the third week in the flowering cycle. The female plants need to be checked for hermaphroditism until harvest. You are on your way to produce the best cannabis seeds.
(A quick word on "backward" hermaphrodites declared males that eventually sport female flowers as opposed to the usual female-to-male hermaphrodites. These are semi-rare occurrences, usually sterile but sometimes viable, that I have found at times to be valuable in their genetic contributions. Some of the most resinous and desirable males I have encountered exhibited this trait. This trait almost seems to guarantee against unwanted hermaphroditism in subsequent generations as it also increases the female to male ratio in its progeny.)
Selecting males
I prefer to remove all of the males from the grow-room to a separate, isolated space shortly after they declare their sex and well before they begin to shed pollen. A small space lit with simple fluorescent light will suffice for the males for the next few weeks. During this time the female buds will fatten with more flowers while your collection of males is selected down. Separation is essential to avoid unwanted pollination and unwanted cannabis seeds on females.
I generally employ a simple process of elimination while selecting males. First, any auto-flowering or very early-declared males are eliminated. (Auto-flowering means that male flowers form regardless of light cycle timing.) This is mainly to insure against hermaphroditism or unwanted flowering traits, but also as a means to insure quality. The very early declared males have a tendency to be less desirable in terms of their contributions to the quality of the finished product. (If you are trying to specifically create an early-flowering marijuana seeds strain, then your priorities may be different.)
Next, any male plant that grows too tall or too fast is usually eliminated. The reason for this is that most plants which dedicate so much energy to fiber production generally are best for making fiber. The exception to this rule is when an over-productive plant also exhibits a number of the desirable characteristics mentioned later. You want to breed marijuana seeds for buds not fiber plants.
The next criteria for elimination is borrowed from Michael Starks' book, Marijuana Potency, and involves stem structure. Large, hollow main stems are sought while pith-filled stems are eliminated. Backed by years of observation, I agree that hollow stems do seem to facilitate THC production. You want that in your cannabis seeds.
Another consideration is the type of floral clusters that develop. Even on males, clusters which are tight, compact and yet very productive are desired over an airy, loose structure. Very important for potent marijuana seeds bred. These observations are most notable in the indoor environment. Outdoors, the differences in stem and floral structures are more difficult to discern.
The next and perhaps most important characteristic to examine for quality marijuana seeds production is that of odor, flavor and trichome development. Again, the females will prove themselves by their finished product, but the males are a bit trickier.
I usually begin with a Sativa female and an Indica male. It has been my observation that the females primarily contribute the type of flavor and aroma and the males contribute the amount of flavor and odor. The "Sativa/Indica" aspects of this formula are mainly apparent in the P1 or very early filial crosses (to about f3). Beyond the f3 marijuana seeds plant generation the apparent "Sativa/Indica" ratio in a given individual is less important than the odor/flavor and trichome development aspects it exhibits. Therefore, one of the main aspects to consider when selecting a male for cannabis seeds breeding is the depth of its aroma and flavor. (If you are seeking to develop a low-odor indoor cannabis seeds strain you might wish to begin with a low-odor Sativa male and an Indica female.)
With the remaining males I usually employ an odor/flavor test. Using males at least two or three weeks into the flowering cycle (and preferably beyond if a separate, isolated space is being used), a sort of "scratch-and-sniff" technique is first employed. With clean, odor-free fingers, gently rub one plant at a time, on the stem where it is well developed and pliable, above the woody part and below the developing top (approximately at the spot where a clone would be cut). The newer leaves at their halfway point of development may also be rubbed and sniffed.
These are the places that the earliest chemical signatures of a developing plant present themselves, and it is our intent to gently disturb these chemicals and inspire an odor/flavor reaction on the fingers and on the plant. By examining these various aromas in this way one may be able to determine certain desirable (and also undesirable) cannabis seeds characteristics. After clearing one's palate and refreshing one's fingers, another plant may be tested.
The finalists are best compared for at least a week and at different times of day, to determine who performs best over a period of time.
A few of the "good" aromas which I have found to be associated with both male and female high quality cannabis seeds strains are: sweet, floral, fruity, berry, wine/brandy, other savory spirits, skunky and spearmint. Some of the "bad" aromas associated with both male and female cannabis marijuana seeds plants are: grassy, chlorophyll (green), celery, parsley, carrots, cinnamon, pepper-mint or wintergreen, gear-oil and gasoline. Some of the aromas that are considered "good" from females but not necessarily from males are: woody, cedar, pine, citrus, tropical fruit, chocolate, vanilla, coffee, garlic and astringent.
Worldwide weed
It is sad that due to the Unfortunate State of Assholes in the world today we cannabis seeds breeders and herbalists are treated criminally. Sad because given saner times we would be able to produce vast amounts of fine quality herb by virtue of no more than the great outdoors, large numbered populations and trial and error.
Someday perhaps, but in the meantime I have few alternate suggestions. Holland, Denmark, Switzerland, Spain and other parts of Europe are opening up more and more toward herbal tolerance. It is relatively easy in these places to score some high quality product.
It is advisable for the newbie to a scene to buy many small samples of herbals at first until one finds what one likes. Just like in any other travel situation, special surprises await those willing to venture out from the centralized tourist areas (except in Christiania where "one stop shopping" is greatly enjoyed).
I am willing to bet that some of the many herbal "sweet spots" around the globe may once again be producing their specialties and quality marijuana seeds strains. I am eager to verify any rumor of such possibilities. These sweet spots would include many equatorial and near equatorial regions such as Colombia, Highland Mexico, parts of Thailand, Burma and Bhutan to name a few. Places such as Nepal and Jamaica have been ideal for herbal expeditions as well. These are some of the places one could venture in search of educating one's herbal palate and expanding one's experience.
Constant testing
After selections are made, it is also necessary to remember to test for these qualities across a number of clone and cannabis seeds generations. Do the desirable characteristics present in a new plant (from marijuana seed) persist through the following clone generations of that plant? Does the plant from clones of the original carry the same odor/flavor quality? The same potency? Overall desirability? The answers most definitely need to be "yes" if that individual is to be considered for future breeding of desired quality cannabis seeds strain.
With much practice and years of experience it becomes apparent to those with a sensitive palate which individuals possess the most desirable characteristics from a given sample. I suggest that your taste and smell be augmented with the use of an illuminated magnifier, either 30X, 60X or 100X power will do.
Look at the same aforementioned spot on the stem or developing leaves any time after the second week in the bud cycle and look for the greatest abundance of developing trichomes or secretory hairs (hairs that secrete fluid obvious at 30X and above magnification). More fully developed trichomes with very clear heads are generally the most desirable for potent marijuana seeds breeding.
These observations need to be done over a period of time (that is, not just a one-time look) and at different times of the day to determine which individuals perform best. Many various phenomena become apparent to those who are able to pay close attention over a period of time. To that effect I suggest you compile and composite detailed notes on one's observations, and to compare those notes over time. Detailed, comprehensive notes are the hallmark of any successful cannabis seeds breeding program.
It is possible to test males by smoking or otherwise consuming them. This practice may be somewhat beneficial to beginners as it does involve a sort of obvious discretion. I suggest using only fresh tips, properly cured and rolled into a joint. Also, make sure that this test smoke is the first smoke one consumes in a day in order to best discern its qualities, or lack thereof.
Some other aspects to consider
There are a number of aesthetic considerations to consider regarding fine quality cannabis seeds breeding, such as color, overall structure, growth patterns and various bouquets. My primary goal involves finding the finished product with the most desirable and pleasant effects. So I focus on those aspects and stabilize them first. Once stabilized, a backcross or a cross to another variety may be utilized to further improve the line and/or increase vigor of the marijuana seeds strain, if necessary.
On the experimental level the finished product is expected to be either pleasant or powerful, depending on the individual, also marijuana seeds should be easy to germinate. I prefer an herb that is pleasantly powerful or powerfully pleasant! So that is the sought-after goal. The range of experiences elicited by cannabis can vary from bliss to panic to stupefying. I much prefer the bliss aspects.
The best descriptive dichotomy in this case would be comfort vs. discomfort. I also suppose some personality types may enjoy a more exciting experience perhaps only once in awhile a feeling somewhat akin to the entertainment of a roller coaster ride or a horror movie.
Cannabis is unusual in its varying effects on our vascular-circulatory system. Some cannabis seeds strains seem to act as a vasodilator and others as a vasoconstrictor. A vasoconstrictor is a substance that constricts blood vessels. It tends to elicit tension, excitement, anxiety, and even panic. A vasodilator is a substance that dilates blood vessels and tends to relax a person more easily into a blissful state. Therefore, I tend to prefer cannabis seed strains that seems to act as a vasodilator, simply not to the point of couch lock sedation.
I have nothing against powerfully stony herb marijuana seeds strains. It is just that as long as my breeding space is limited, I will choose to work with the more pleasant cannabis seeds varieties those that elicit a generally happy experience. Someday I look forward to working at stabilizing many different varieties of herb. After all, to each their own.
Tinnitus and dyskinesia are common symptoms of a vasoconstrictor reaction. Tinnitus is ringing in the ears, and dyskinesia, in this instance, is usually felt as a tingling in the extremities, especially the little fingers, toes and ears. Another bad sign would be any form of tension headache or unwanted body load. If these symptoms occur regularly after indulging in a particular herb, the herb may be contributing to the sensation.
Good Luck and may your work produce the best cannabis seeds to spread all over the world!

yes well.... the nutrient selection that seeding mother plants gets is a little different too, and a few other things..... it is a whole world inside of growing ..... and Like I said I have only dabbled on a few occasions..... soaking up as much info on the way

I may get to do a breeding journal on here yet..... sometime at the end of 2010?

theloadeddragon said:

yes well.... the nutrient selection that seeding mother plants gets is a little different too, and a few other things..... it is a whole world inside of growing ..... and Like I said I have only dabbled on a few occasions..... soaking up as much info on the way

I may get to do a breeding journal on here yet..... sometime at the end of 2010?

Click to expand...

well i just soaked up a lot of information..... thanks loaded .... i think i'll get started on it mid 2010, just don't have the extra space right now, and def need get more acquainted and knowledgeable on the subject

Preparation is key, and it just may be one of the most crucial aspects required for great success

I added another 400W MH (Sunburst switchable ballast built in unit, with a Ushio conversion bulb) to the veg room today (making it 3 400W MH now), and I took the old 6 inch exhaust fan out of the Jungle side of the flowering room and put it in the veg room, I need to find a cord and then I can mount a circulation fan up in an apposing corner. I have been told many a time by many different people (all at the same place unfortunately) that Ushio bulbs far outperform all other competing HID lamp bulbs both in spectral distribution and output, when used with appropriate ballast hood etc. ..... what I can say from firing it up and letting it go for a while is, It lives up to what people have said about it. I have plants under it, so we will see how they grow compared to the other two bulbs etc I am using, ...... I will get pics of it all in the not too far off future

to illustrate what I said earlier bout the veg area..... those clones don't look good ...... damn Thrive Alive incident, not as many may survive as I thought ...... its ALL good though.... Look at the difference between the 2 Purple Kush plants, one got the Thrive Alive, the other didn't! Look at the difference! lol....... so anyways..... a couple things and one day at a time..... some of the ladies in veg are ready for water (under the 2 400W MH) some for veg nutes (the Purple Kush), and the cuttings are getting a tiny bit of Good New Thrive Alive....... the PK is getting a 1/4 strength dose of Bio Bizz Fish Mix, or whatever,...........