Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Share and link away, friend.
The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds
- Thread starter zypheruk
- Start date
Share and link away, friend.
Oldskoolsmoker
Active Member
Sign up for an Account at Ali Baba, then go to the supplier of your choice. 2 of the better ones have been mentioned and they do take Credit cards, you can also chat with the supplier online.
cheekiestsauce
Member
How long did delivery take? I'm in AB
cheekiestsauce
Member
Should be up now
daveybc
Well-Known Member
Good to here BM, this was my thoughts. If UV or FR is desired just buy the boards separately. Put them on a separate channel/timer. No switch or extra diodes, no problems associated in the future I suppose.... My feeling the UV is bad for your eyes and skin and if you hang out in the grow room you could turn off the UV channel if desired. You can also use the FR to extend the day an extra 10-15 minutes to put plants to sleep using a separate channel.
So I narrowed down my options to 2, and I am leaning to option 2 but the spectrum curve look sweet on option 1.
kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com
But then there this this option ( With FR and UV ) for 152. rather than 164. Trying to figure whats the difference for 10$ less than option 1. Anyone know?
So I narrowed down my options to 2, and I am leaning to option 2 but the spectrum curve look sweet on option 1.
Products list direct from CN
Main products Led grow light, bar grow light and 195 more Products from Shenzhen Kingbrite Lighting Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com
kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com
But then there this this option ( With FR and UV ) for 152. rather than 164. Trying to figure whats the difference for 10$ less than option 1. Anyone know?
Last edited:
Marla 420
Well-Known Member
I don't know much about LEDs but one is a Lm301H and the other is Lm301B Samsung Diodes. The Lm301B is the older model that's why it's cheaper. My question is how much of a difference are they? I have heard that they are pretty much the same and just a marketing gimmick. I have no opinion on that since I have no idea.Good to here BM, this was my thoughts. If UV or FR is desired just buy the boards separately. Put them on a separate channel/timer. No switch or extra diodes, no problems associated in the future I suppose.... My feeling the UV is bad for your eyes and skin and if you hang out in the grow room you could turn off the UV channel if desired. You can also use the FR to extend the day an extra 10-15 minutes to put plants to sleep using a separate channel.
So I narrowed down my options to 2, and I am leaning to option 2 but the spectrum curve look sweet on option 1.
Products list direct from CN
Main products Led grow light, bar grow light and 195 more Products from Shenzhen Kingbrite Lighting Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com
But then there this this option ( With FR and UV ) for 152. rather than 164. Trying to figure whats the difference for 10$ less than option 1. Anyone know?
edit. Also getting FR and UV on your board. I have heard it affects the longevity of your Diodes and Also how when its on it takes power away from them. Again I have no idea.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
LM301B/H are the exact same diode. They come from the same place, off the same line, just out Into different boxes. B is for the lighting industry using LUMENS to explain it's light output, H being more for the Horticultural Market using uMoles.
Last edited:
daveybc
Well-Known Member
@Marla 420 good eye.. Those are the same diodes apparently. So you can save 12 $ for a lm301b vs lm301h.. Sounds like a good choice.
Myself I am leaning toward the cree 660nm but am struggling on whether to bother with the added IR, UV.
THere was a test run with THC/Terp etc numbers showing the HLG version UVA led lamp. The test was done with UVA on the one side of a 4 x 12 space. THe test showed a small spike in the THC but found a decrease in the terps. After that I was hesitant on UVA. Perhaps theres is other benefits as harder leaves, resistance from pest, pathogens etc.
Any further input on straight cree reds vs added IR, UVA?
Myself I am leaning toward the cree 660nm but am struggling on whether to bother with the added IR, UV.
THere was a test run with THC/Terp etc numbers showing the HLG version UVA led lamp. The test was done with UVA on the one side of a 4 x 12 space. THe test showed a small spike in the THC but found a decrease in the terps. After that I was hesitant on UVA. Perhaps theres is other benefits as harder leaves, resistance from pest, pathogens etc.
Any further input on straight cree reds vs added IR, UVA?
Last edited:
cheekiestsauce
Member
Let me know what you find out. I'm looking into the same lights as well I believe.
bigmikey86
Well-Known Member
To be honest I was in the same boat when I was purchasing my ticket to LED land. There’s an insane amount of different companies and diode layouts with added features like switches and stuff. In the end, I figured having control of it is what ultimately enables you to dial in a grow. Since the light I was planning to build was for my flower tent, I went with the QB288 with Cree xp-e2 660. the grow is just wrapping up and the buds are banging. If I was to use it as a full cycle light I definitely would have bought all white boards and added the low level parts of the spectrum with QB11’s from KB and adjustable drivers. Funny enough, if you went with all white boards then bought qb11’s in the desired supplemental spectrums, the price difference may even be close to the prefixed boards.
Theres a good thread on here showing what uva/uvb can to in terms of thc percentage. In the controlled run they did, they had four separate grows using different uv sources. Uv compared to no UV was about 20% higher totals for thc. That’s good in my books so on the uv front I would definitely say to try and incorporate it into your light but have it on a controllable channel.
I ran a 3mins EOD treatment (4x qb11 730nm in a 4x4 at 2.5w per strip. Running a 13/11 schedule with 12/12 for last week of flower. The strips turned out great so I can vouch for those.
In the end you gotta make a decision, wait too long contemplating and the next newest and greatest lighting option will come out and make you start this process all over again lol trust me, the exact same thing was said to me when I was deciding on a light. The choice is yours my friend. You won’t be disappointed with KB.
Theres a good thread on here showing what uva/uvb can to in terms of thc percentage. In the controlled run they did, they had four separate grows using different uv sources. Uv compared to no UV was about 20% higher totals for thc. That’s good in my books so on the uv front I would definitely say to try and incorporate it into your light but have it on a controllable channel.
I ran a 3mins EOD treatment (4x qb11 730nm in a 4x4 at 2.5w per strip. Running a 13/11 schedule with 12/12 for last week of flower. The strips turned out great so I can vouch for those.
In the end you gotta make a decision, wait too long contemplating and the next newest and greatest lighting option will come out and make you start this process all over again lol trust me, the exact same thing was said to me when I was deciding on a light. The choice is yours my friend. You won’t be disappointed with KB.
cheekiestsauce
Member
Thanks for the help. I'm looking to get one for the full cycle. I'll just keep looking and try to learn more based on that then make a decision.
daveybc
Well-Known Member
Consider the cree reds look at the spectrum spike on the graphs. I think I am going 3500 K as oppose to 3000k for the lm301h( preferance re node space/ height requirement and partly veg light). Just sorting out IR or UV added. My friend says he wears glasses now so perhaps a small spike in UV would be OK. The IR and UV added, is a preference and not necessary. Im liking what I see from KB. Time to just make a decision I guess.
cheekiestsauce
Member
You're going to do the straight up 3500k? I was looking at the differences in the LM301H + CRE XP-E2 660NM + UV IR and the LM301H + EPISTAR 660NM + UV IR. Going to do a little digging on the difference bewteen the epistar and the CRE. If anyone knows anything don't hesitate to jump in as well!
daveybc
Well-Known Member
I am reading into better quality diodes. Look at the spectrum graph.. a huge spike in red compared to epistar. It cost more too.
I will get 3500K with add the cree reds on board. I just dont know if I desire to have the UV and IR ( aka far red ). There is a choice for this, so I will choose as desired. I know HLG Rspecs ( usa company )use 3500k lm301b top bin diodes and osram 660 deep reds. They are highly successful boards. So I am assuming the KB boards with lm301b ( lm301h ) with added cree 660 nm should be close to, or as good. Binning of lm301b ( lm301h ) has been debatable between HLG and Alibaba vendors.
we are not made of cash here so these KB lights are a good option for some. Especially if you live out of the USA.
@bigmikey86 Are you sure that was20 percent higher thc. I think everone would incorporate if you got 20 percent. THC madness lol.
UV does come in several configurations. I believe anyone wanting to use it seriously would go with tubes with uva uvb. Solacure Agromax etc. Those UVA UVB tubes can be dangerous so use with caution.
I will get 3500K with add the cree reds on board. I just dont know if I desire to have the UV and IR ( aka far red ). There is a choice for this, so I will choose as desired. I know HLG Rspecs ( usa company )use 3500k lm301b top bin diodes and osram 660 deep reds. They are highly successful boards. So I am assuming the KB boards with lm301b ( lm301h ) with added cree 660 nm should be close to, or as good. Binning of lm301b ( lm301h ) has been debatable between HLG and Alibaba vendors.
we are not made of cash here so these KB lights are a good option for some. Especially if you live out of the USA.
@bigmikey86 Are you sure that was20 percent higher thc. I think everone would incorporate if you got 20 percent. THC madness lol.
UV does come in several configurations. I believe anyone wanting to use it seriously would go with tubes with uva uvb. Solacure Agromax etc. Those UVA UVB tubes can be dangerous so use with caution.
Last edited:
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Fissioning has just that. 3500k with added reds 660&730nm. But they use the Osram Square reds.
Amazon.com : Fissioning LED Grow Light Matrix 240W Full Spectrum with Samsung LM301H 3500K, Osram 660nm and 730nm, Meanwell Driver HLG-240H-54A, Dimmable : Garden & Outdoor
Amazon.com : Fissioning LED Grow Light Matrix 240W Full Spectrum with Samsung LM301H 3500K, Osram 660nm and 730nm, Meanwell Driver HLG-240H-54A, Dimmable : Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com
daveybc
Well-Known Member
@Airwalker16 Nice looking light but it is not available. As well does not ship to Canada.
I was looking at the spectrum curves between the KB 3500k with cree vs the HLG RSPEC 3500 with osram and the KB seems to jump a little higher on the red spike than HLG but the HLG bumps a fair bit more in the 580 nm orange range. I am thinking those KB would do well.
Now looking and comparing the KB added Cree with IR and LG UV that spectrum looks better in that orange 580 nm zone. hmm.
As well due to growing environment we need those kits that are 2 singles buttressed for width. Will connect the 2 boards with L channel aluminum so they move as one.
I also noticed some of the double board kits come with constant current drivers (240h c1050b ) as oppose to the 48 V ones. Im impartial to series wiring vs parallel. I am thinking I would rather do a series on double fixtures. However I have taken advantage of owning constant voltage ones by adding lights to them in another build.
I was looking at the spectrum curves between the KB 3500k with cree vs the HLG RSPEC 3500 with osram and the KB seems to jump a little higher on the red spike than HLG but the HLG bumps a fair bit more in the 580 nm orange range. I am thinking those KB would do well.
Now looking and comparing the KB added Cree with IR and LG UV that spectrum looks better in that orange 580 nm zone. hmm.
As well due to growing environment we need those kits that are 2 singles buttressed for width. Will connect the 2 boards with L channel aluminum so they move as one.
I also noticed some of the double board kits come with constant current drivers (240h c1050b ) as oppose to the 48 V ones. Im impartial to series wiring vs parallel. I am thinking I would rather do a series on double fixtures. However I have taken advantage of owning constant voltage ones by adding lights to them in another build.
Last edited:
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Fissioning LED Grow Light Matrix 120W Full Spectrum with Samsung LM301H 3500K, Osram 660nm and 730nm, Meanwell Driver HLG-120H-54A, Dimmable : Amazon.ca: Patio, Lawn & Garden
Find products from FissionGROW at low prices. Shop online for barbecues, mowers, garden tools, generators, snow blowers and more at Amazon.ca
www.amazon.ca
Barristan Whitebeard
Well-Known Member
I would prefer not to have that hot, heavy driver mounted on top of the LEDs like that. A remote mounting option would be preferable. At least the 240 watt models are framed to allow the driver to sit between the boards.
Also, that light is pretty expensive. That works out to 207 US dollars and there's not even a heatsink factored into that cost.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Mine aren't on the boards. Very easily mounted elsewhere.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
That's because it doesn't need a heatsink. The board is much thicker than most and the Fuckers are 15"x9.5" Doesn't get hot at all.
@Corso312 recently received his.