Testing LED pontoon+induction system==Old school organic grow for TESLA:)

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
Yeah his horticultural degree is from where?? Either way it's a cute theory but I tend to follow FACTS over a thesis paper^^^lol. Every large scale commercial farmer DOESN'T defoliate their food crops(CORN, grape, citrus,nuts,etc etc.) why??? because they use methods(and chem ferts :)) that give them the HIGHEST yields per acre!! You know I was involved in the PA wine industry for almost a decade DAWG and no I wasn't growing in the eighties ........20__ grad from PSU( BS AG business) and took some general Hort/bot classes and barely passed TBH:P.....which doesn't mean shit really, I just don't see any Facts that disputes the current methods as NOT the most productive...

Show me one study where defoliation INCREASES yields.....I'll wait........oh here is some recent kid that learned this the hard way:

https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/632476-my-defoliated-vs-non-defoliated.html#post8801299

We are officially even on highjacking each others threads now...........
Whats Up My Brother.I Love It When Indoor Growers Try To Make Their Point Using Outdoor Technics.Seriously Brother You Know I Belive As Long As Your Growing Our Beloved Plant That Theirs Really No Wrong Way To Grow Unless Your Killing Your Plants.I Know You Recieved Your education From PSU However I Recived My Education From The State Pen And The Person That I Copied That Information From Recived His Degree From ASU.Below Is Some Links To Defoliation.Peace and Keep It Greasy

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial
Oh How About An Outdoor Cotton Defoliation Article from MSU
http://msucares.com/crops/cotton/discussion.html
 

gordobo

Active Member
Wow I lay off the site for a couple weeks and you guys are all doing pontoon grows. This one at 100 watts oughta be fun to watch. Thanks for sharing. subbed 4 sure
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Yeah count two hihihi!
I'd rather enjoy your grow when for "yourself" or actually for"the community" to be honest!
Nevertheless, the entertainment will be there as always...
greetings and best of luck!
Looking forward to details on the old school organics approach!
Thanks Friend..........this grow is just for me to know if induction/led combo can sustain my smoke habit.....also keeping my future fluoro/hid/cfl bulb purchases nonexistent and out of the landfill is nice as well:).......I don't lie about my results and Daryl(indagro) knows this, shows he's confident about his products performance!!!! If good results are NOT replicated by many growers than any new tech is worthless at converting people from HID IMO.......If I get results that NO ONE else can , then you can call me a liar/cheat no problem.

Nice!
I'm subbed for sure, man!
Glad your joining.........

Whats Up My Brother.I Love It When Indoor Growers Try To Make Their Point Using Outdoor Technics.Seriously Brother You Know I Belive As Long As Your Growing Our Beloved Plant That Theirs Really No Wrong Way To Grow Unless Your Killing Your Plants.I Know You Recieved Your education From PSU However I Recived My Education From The State Pen And The Person That I Copied That Information From Recived His Degree From ASU.Below Is Some Links To Defoliation.Peace and Keep It Greasy

http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-defoliation-tutorial
Oh How About An Outdoor Cotton Defoliation Article from MSU
http://msucares.com/crops/cotton/discussion.html
What's up my brother!!!.....Yep their is no ONE right way to grow your absolutely right....But plants need water/light/nutrients/leaves to flourish is a FACT....

I'm not even gonna comment on the first link-------maybe just a little==== weedeasy has been found out awhile ago, do some investigating---his tutorial about "flavoring" your buds by adding FRUIT JUICE is a nice read!lol

Did you even read the second link??? the Cotton plant is known for its susceptibility to disease(pest/fungal/mold etc.) and is responsible for one of the biggest polluting agricultural practices(USA) to deal with it.......They "sometimes" defoliate to reduce heavy loses in yield from PM in wet conditions(HIGH RH) . Their defoliation techniques are for having some yield instead of none which is a form of increase but not in the terms of our discussion......Nice try though Dawg:)

Bahahaha....Now all i have to do is be able to grow half as good as you fine gents and my life will be complete.... :D
Well that should be the easiest thing to do in your life!.......because neither of us are good :P

Wow I lay off the site for a couple weeks and you guys are all doing pontoon grows. This one at 100 watts oughta be fun to watch. Thanks for sharing. subbed 4 sure
Poooonana party!!!............or pontoons for the geeky folk......grab a chair

Competition

Whether they are better, worse, or equal IDK, just posting the 411


200w @ $500 + 2 larger models


http://www.fluorogrow.com/index.php/induction-grow-lights.html
Seen them before......run LVD(bulb-ballast) components, not bad china quality and should veg well (5000k) BUT flower might be another matter.....don't know


Day 3 from germination under 117 watts of Indagro led/induction hybrid system: Sensi seeds NL Bitches

002.jpg003.jpg004.jpg006.jpg007.jpg....No signs of burn at all (crossing fingers) and both showing good growth rates ATM........This mix is HOT!!! so just de-chlorinated water for awhile....

001.jpg005.jpg008.jpg009.jpg010.jpg011.jpg 3rd day of 24/0 light schedule .....be safe and happy growing RIU.
 

FranJan

Well-Known Member
Dude you know what those pontoons need? Foil and you know it and I don't want to hear about it :-P. Aww shit, I had to open my mouth and now I'm all auto-subbed. Good Luck, Pleeese Be Safe and Happy Growing.

PS Oh and anything about an auto-watering system just in case reality decides to bum-rush the show this round?
PPS I hope the family is doing well BTW.
 

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
I was not aware of this new thread, I am subbed!!

I will try to use very little watts per square foot in my room2 this summer so your grow will be very informative. Were you growing organically on your previous grow? if not congratulation for making the switch!

What size container are you using? I like that your started your seeds in big pots! way to go!

Good luck and Happy Growing buddy :eyesmoke:
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
Didn't know this............so the 200 and 100 par have the same reflector housing dimensions???
All of IG's lamps have two of the same dimensions, they're all 14" wide and ~7" tall. When I first heard about the pontoon thing, I thought it was quite convenient for parts sharing between the sizes that the difference is in the length of the housing.

I'm subbed
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
Competition

Whether they are better, worse, or equal IDK, just posting the 411


200w @ $500 + 2 larger models


http://www.fluorogrow.com/index.php/induction-grow-lights.html
I know nothing of this company but there are things I like and dislike about their products. I like that they use the 200W lamp in all their products, but the 600W(200W X3) has the lamps stacked sideways together. I don't know the shape of the footprint, but I feel like the light would be more effective if they were mounted in their own housings. Those are considerably larger than IG's, but unlike iGrow, they don't want you changing the bulbs.
 

jubiare

Active Member
psuabro'
Never had any doubts about you lying previously and am not expecting you to do it now eheh! It's good you say you are testing it for you to find out about the tech, it's the title"for Tesla" that got me wondering hihi!
One can and should always remain independent with their tests and talk frankly, well one can argue life it's all marketing bla bla... All right.. Look at the state of modern society.. Something is wrong? we def need truth and sharing.. Sorry for blabbering.. Hope your little girls are doing nicely and subbed for the show!
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
What's up my brother!!!.....Yep their is no ONE right way to grow your absolutely right....But plants need water/light/nutrients/leaves to flourish is a FACT....

I'm not even gonna comment on the first link-------maybe just a little==== weedeasy has been found out awhile ago, do some investigating---his tutorial about "flavoring" your buds by adding FRUIT JUICE is a nice read!lol

Did you even read the second link??? the Cotton plant is known for its susceptibility to disease(pest/fungal/mold etc.) and is responsible for one of the biggest polluting agricultural practices(USA) to deal with it.......They "sometimes" defoliate to reduce heavy loses in yield from PM in wet conditions(HIGH RH) . Their defoliation techniques are for having some yield instead of none which is a form of increase but not in the terms of our discussion......Nice try though Dawg:)
Lmao Really Is That The Best You Got Brother.I Got A Question For Ya Why Does My Defoliation Bug You Brother??Yes I Know Web Sites Like WeedEasy Are Mostly B.S. However The Reason I Posted That Link Was Down At The Bottom Of The Article Theirs A Link To Another Website That Has Some Really Interesting Discussion On Defoliation.Pssst Keep This To Yourself But Even Us Defolitaors Dissagree On When And How To Defoliate.

Now About The 2nd Link.yes I Did Read It And I Just went back And Re-Read It.I Cant Not find Where It Says They sometimes Defoliate To Reduce Heavy Crop Losses In The Field From Wet PM Conditions.Heres The Link Copied And Pasted Could You Please Point That Out.

Cotton Production in Mississippi
Defoliation General Discussion
Deciding when to defoliate a crop is an important decision from several stand points. If the crop is defoliated too soon, yields, quality and profits suffer. On the other hand, depending on the location and the field condition, delaying defoliation may increase likelihood of additional insect problems, or delaying harvest into bad weather which will effect yield and profits. That is why defoliation decisions must be based on the crop and the crop environment. Plant maturity is perhaps the most important factor, but other factors such as picking capacity, custom harvesting, and weather are also important.
Defoliation is an important management practice associated with high yields and high quality cotton. The decision as to how and when to remove the leaves and open the bolls appears to be one of the more difficult tasks confronting a cotton grower. There are so many variables involved that the results of harvest aid applications are often unpredictable and sometimes even undesirable. You would think that after more than 40 years of research in this area we could obtain desirable results under all circumstances. However, this is not always true, and we often have failures. Thus, defoliation has come to be considered as much art as science.
There are many benefits that can be expected from a good defoliation job. Many experiments have shown that defoliation improves picker efficiency in fields with large green plants. Additionally, defoliated fields tend to dry out faster, permit more picking hours per day and allow picking sooner after rain. Defoliation also cuts off the food supply to late season insects that are entering diapause. Under certain conditions, defoliation has reduced boll rot by creating better drying conditions in the field. This is especially true in rank cotton.
Defoliation may also have some disadvantages and limitations. When plants are defoliated, the fiber and seed development essentially stops. Therefore, if too many bolls are immature at the time of application there can be a reduction in yield and quality associated with the treatment.
Cotton leaves have a mechanism that causes them to fall from the plant after they become senescent. This physiological process which involves the separation of living tissue from the living plant occurs in a specialized zone located near the base of the leaf petiole referred to as the "abscission zone". Abscission occurs due to enzyme activity within this zone and is regulated by hormones which are produced in the leaf. This regulation occurs as a resulting gradient in hormone concentration between the main-stem side and the leaf side of the abscission zone. The enzymes that are in this zone dissolve the cell walls, and the weight of leaf. Wind will cause the leaf to drop from the plant. Young, actively growing leaves produce an abundance of hormones which are translocated down the petiole to the main-stem. This tends to keep the leaf on the plant. As the leaf becomes older and more mature, hormone production decreases and the leaf becomes more susceptible to senescence factors such as hormone imbalances and defoliation. Factors other than age may also upset the hormone balance in the leaf. Some of these factors are injury, insect damage, disease, nutrient stress, water stress, cold stress or chemical injury. These injuries may upset the hormonal balance and initiate the abscission process and cause the leaves to fall from the plant much like an application of defoliant.
Basically, a defoliant chemical is designed to inflict sufficient injury to the leaf to upset the hormone balance at the abscission zone and allow enzymes to begin the abscission process. If too much chemical is applied, the leaf may be killed before the hormone imbalance occurs resulting in "stuck" leaves. If too little is applied the abscission process may not be initiated and result in a complete failure.
There are several factors which will directly impact the effect a defoliate chemical application may have. These are the condition of the plant, weather conditions at the time of application and for a couple of days after, and the chemical itself. The first two of these are by far the most important, and both must be within a reasonable range of limits in order for any of the chemicals to work.
Plant Effect: Plants are more easily defoliated when the cultural practices followed throughout the growing season are designed to promote well-fruited plants that mature evenly and early. This includes uniform stands, adequate but not excessive moisture and fertilization, and proper, well-timed insect, disease, and weed control. Proper management of the plant canopy with a Plant Growth Regulator may be beneficial in many cases. Generally speaking, defoliation is more easily accomplished when the plants have stopped both vegetative and reproductive growth, or if they have completely cut out. The ideal situation would be for the plant to reach maturity and run out of nitrogen and water at the same time. That rarely occurs in a field situation so we have to do the best we can.
Weather Effect: Weather conditions at the time of application, and for a few days afterwards, have a tremendous influence on the effectiveness of any of the harvest-aid chemicals and/or combinations. Weather conditions are perhaps the most important factor directly effecting the efficiency of defoliation attempts. As mentioned before, defoliation is a physiological process, and the physiological processes within the cotton plant are regulated by temperature. As the temperature is lowered, processes are slowed down and will completely halt at about 60F. Therefore, it is very difficult to defoliate cotton when the temperature gets down around 60F, plus or minus, for a few days around the time of application.
High humidity at the time of application is helpful to insure the defoliants work well. This permits the chemical to stay on the leaf in a liquid state for a longer period of time, giving more time for absorption of the chemical into the leaf. Also, when atmospheric moisture is high, evaporation and transpiration are reduced, and thus the moisture content of the leaf remains high, which aids in movement of the defoliation chemical.
Cotton plants are more responsive to defoliant chemicals when the sun is shining than on a cloudy day. The reason for this is not fully understood. It is assumed that the temperatures are a little bit lower under cloudy conditions. However, some research in Arizona has shown that even if the temperatures remain high, the response is slower under dark (relative) conditions than under light conditions. Therefore, sunlight does have some effect on response.
Chemical Effect: There are several chemicals available for defoliation, and all are equally effective when plant and environmental conditions are favorable for defoliation and they are applied in accordance with their label. For material information CLICK HERE.
There are other materials on the market for use in defoliation and countless combinations for numerous situations. You should select the material which will best fit the field situation. Note: Any mention of a product does not constitute an endorsement, nor does the omission of a product mean that it will not work in harvest aid applications.
Application: The application of these products is very, very important. None of the defoliant chemicals are considered to be very systemic, and thus none will translocate within the plant. In order for any leaf to fall from the plant, it must receive a sufficient amount of material to initiate the abscission process. For this reason the spray volume should be higher with defoliants than with insecticides. With ground equipment, at least 10 gallons per acre should be used and at least 5 gallons per acre with aerial equipment.
Preconditioning: Often a grower may be tempted to do what may be refer to as "precondition" the crop for defoliation. This can be very risky, and I do not recommend this practice. What some people refer to as "preconditioning" is the application of a low rate of defoliant chemical a week or 10 days before the regular defoliant treatment is to be applied. If conditions are right, it is possible that this may cause too much leaf drop and reduce both yield and fiber quality. Sometimes a grower may get by with this, but due to the variables involved it is very, very risky.
Timing: Deciding when to apply the chemical is often a tough decision to make. Above all else, the decision should be based on the maturity of the plants and field. Harvest schedules and prevailing weather conditions and forecast are also prominent considerations. For all practical purposes, the maturation processes stop when the leaves are taken off a cotton plant. Anytime that the decision is made to apply a defoliant or harvest aid chemical, there will probably be some immature bolls on the plant. However, a grower cannot wait until 100% of the bolls are mature; some will have to be sacrificed. As a general rule of thumb, the last boll to be consistently picked will probably be the first position boll on the 4th or 5th node down from the terminal. The maturity of this boll should be used as the key for timing an application of defoliant. The yield and quality of the bottom crop and middle crop is far more important than those last 2 or 3 little tiny bolls in the terminal. This decision is often hard to make. For more information on timing,CLICK HERE.
In closing, let me make one last point. Defoliation chemicals and boll openers do not contribute to maturity; they simply take the leaves off and crack bolls open at whatever stage of development the crop is in. A cotton crop should be at the desired stage of maturity when a harvest aid chemical is applied. Field examination is critical for defoliation decisions.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
^^^^ none of this applies. Defoliation only works with a few strains. Most strains get too stressed out by it. Its a strain dependent situation. Instead of copy and pasting b.s. That has no official data to back up (not just that post). Do a side by side comprison. Then we can be done with it. When you leave the leaves on you will be stoked by how much your yield and quality has increased.

Defoliation usually caused the plant to take longer to finish without increasing bud size. Thats been my experience since trying several times over the last 11 years.


Now we await some "special cfl" (fran) pics. Lololololol.
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
^^^^ none of this applies. Defoliation only works with a few strains. Most strains get too stressed out by it. Its a strain dependent situation. Instead of copy and pasting b.s. That has no official data to back up (not just that post). Do a side by side comprison. Then we can be done with it. When you leave the leaves on you will be stoked by how much your yield and quality has increased.

Defoliation usually caused the plant to take longer to finish without increasing bud size. Thats been my experience since trying several times over the last 11 years.


No we await some "special cfl" (fran) pics. Lololololol.
Oh Now Brother Hyroot Dont Go Getting Your Pink Natzi Panties In A Wad.Me And Brother Psuagrow Are Just Having Some Fun.Ok Im Calling A Truce And Announcing That I Have 2 New Lights Comming And An Open Tent.I Will Run 2 Kannabia Power Skunks(Lucy) Side By Side 1 Defoliated And 1 Using A Tuck And Bend Method. :hug:
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Well like Clinton said "It depends on what your definition of (in this case defoliation) is. I remove primary leafs below the second node from top. Purpose to give more light to lower buds. BUT, my method is hydro, so plants are getting a lot more food than soil type growing.

Here they are yesterday. 2 separate tents HOT5 and LED
. Clones in HOT5, seed in LED. Completely dif strains and start times

IMG_1431.jpgIMG_1432.jpgIMG_1429.jpgIMG_1430.jpg
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
subbed ,also ....
(Just found out what the heck is that "subbed " thing ,in fact ...)
About time you figured it out! damn foreigners :) pull up a chair friend........

Dude you know what those pontoons need? Foil and you know it and I don't want to hear about it :-P. Aww shit, I had to open my mouth and now I'm all auto-subbed. Good Luck, Pleeese Be Safe and Happy Growing.

PS Oh and anything about an auto-watering system just in case reality decides to bum-rush the show this round?
PPS I hope the family is doing well BTW.
I have Orca film scraps which which is marginally better than aluminum at twenty times the cost............I still think flat white paint(w fungicide) is the KING when it comes to cost/cleaning/flexibility. Yeah I have water bottle spikes which you invert into the soil and will last a week in "theory"...hope to NOT use it if/when my ex freaks out again.....my kid's healthy so that's all that matters to me.

I was not aware of this new thread, I am subbed!!

I will try to use very little watts per square foot in my room2 this summer so your grow will be very informative. Were you growing organically on your previous grow? if not congratulation for making the switch!

What size container are you using? I like that your started your seeds in big pots! way to go!

Good luck and Happy Growing buddy :eyesmoke:
Thanks green, yep two gallon root trapper II containers..........No transplanting==== less stress and quicker runs is the way to go brother. Chem ferts where my thing when I was growing for profit( lower cost/ high % N-P-K ) and makes larger grows easier no doubt....but for personal it's been organic for some time now(NOT 100% THOUGH) but dialing in slow release Nitrogen with a heavy N feeder like MJ isn't the easiest IMO, well that's what the Guano's for this time(thanks Hyroot).

All of IG's lamps have two of the same dimensions, they're all 14" wide and ~7" tall. When I first heard about the pontoon thing, I thought it was quite convenient for parts sharing between the sizes that the difference is in the length of the housing.

I'm subbed
Thanks for the info...........makes sense

psuabro'
Never had any doubts about you lying previously and am not expecting you to do it now eheh! It's good you say you are testing it for you to find out about the tech, it's the title"for Tesla" that got me wondering hihi!
One can and should always remain independent with their tests and talk frankly, well one can argue life it's all marketing bla bla... All right.. Look at the state of modern society.. Something is wrong? we def need truth and sharing.. Sorry for blabbering.. Hope your little girls are doing nicely and subbed for the show!
No worries friend...........I'll try my best and probably fuck up somewhere/ temps are gonna be an issue around mid-flower.......Tesla came to me in a dream and said that he wants to know if anyone is growing with Edison's POS light bulbs, I said no and we hugged!! true story lol ............I vaped too much today:)

^^^^ none of this applies. Defoliation only works with a few strains. Most strains get too stressed out by it. Its a strain dependent situation. Instead of copy and pasting b.s. That has no official data to back up (not just that post). Do a side by side comprison. Then we can be done with it. When you leave the leaves on you will be stoked by how much your yield and quality has increased.



Defoliation usually caused the plant to take longer to finish without increasing bud size. Thats been my experience since trying several times over the last 11 years.

Now we await some "special cfl" (fran) pics. Lololololol.
Leave the Dawg alone!!! ha..........yes it will never increase yields/ natural evolution is always right and hates defoliaters fucking up it's design:P



Oh Now Brother Hyroot Dont Go Getting Your Pink Natzi Panties In A Wad.Me And Brother Psuagrow Are Just Having Some Fun.Ok Im Calling A Truce And Announcing That I Have 2 New Lights Comming And An Open Tent.I Will Run 2 Kannabia Power Skunks(Lucy) Side By Side 1 Defoliated And 1 Using A Tuck And Bend Method. :hug:
It's all in good fun Dawg, your right no hard feelings ever brother.....I just want the best yields for you!! and I think the side by side is a great idea. Drop the auto's:shock: and don't defoliate and watch how much you gain--- not to mention EH would also be proud of you. Your an excellent grower WITH defoliation , I can only imagine what you can do if you stopped the practice....:weed:

Well like Clinton said "It depends on what your definition of (in this case defoliation) is. I remove primary leafs below the second node from top. Purpose to give more light to lower buds. BUT, my method is hydro, so plants are getting a lot more food than soil type growing.

Here they are yesterday. 2 separate tents HOT5 and LED
. Clones in HOT5, seed in LED. Completely dif strains and start times

View attachment 2593390View attachment 2593391View attachment 2593392View attachment 2593393
Nice job Pet..........you know I've been lurking your grow........starting to think you truly enjoy tweeking(changing bulbs/spectrums) and playing sun god every day:) .....never remove green leaves if your RH is in check.



DAY 7 since germination under 117watts of indagro par 100/led pontoons: Sensi seeds NL bitches

004.jpg005.jpg #1............and...............#2.006.jpg007.jpg #1 seems to have had some wet feet and got necrotic tips^^^ yeah gave them their first decent watering yesterday and immediately noticed that my mix has poor drainage! bummer, should have added more perlite. Anyways growth rate is OK, and we continue on. Will drop the light schedule today down to 20/4.

001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg009.jpg......Be safe and keep growing RIU...

Happy Easter for those who care..........
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Perlite seems in good content (just hard judging from pics ..)
I did too noticed that weird looking leaf tips ...
Dried out at the very far tip ...
I suspect ( ...my 2 cents,with a grain of salt...) a bit much Nitrogen ,in the Ammonium form ...(or Urea ... )
Try also ,to rise a bit the humidity ...
25% ,for seedlings ,ain't a bit low ?
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
I'm also a believer of this theory :

"You do not remove old/unefficient "light harvesting panels ..;-) ,from a "sun energy into matter " ..converter ..."

If plants want their leaves removed ,for any reason ....They do it by themselves,just fine ...
They do not need a human being to defoliate them ....


As for the "sink 'n' source " idea ....

Roots are " sink " regarding light ...
Though a powerful "source" ,regarding mineral /water assimilation ...

Top new leaves ,from the other point ...
Great energy source ...They are ....
As great "matter " sinks ,also ....(except for Carbon Dioxide ...And some Nitrogen,maybe )..


But ....

If "defoliation " show any yield increasements ..
Probably ,it is not 'cause of the "sink/source " thing ..

It might be ,that the plant "senses " that is being ....eaten away ...

So ,it might try to 'compensate ' ,to such "hostile" enviro ,by increasing it's "future generations " by numbers ..
Might try to produce more seeds ..(more chances for survival of species ..)

More seeds ,need more flowers produced ...

Dunno ...

Maybe I'm just talking bull..
 
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