Temps and CO2?

Im interested in increasing night temps to 80 along with a slight breeze. turf seems to grow right through the night when its windy out and warm. yeah im going to try 80night. 90day.
slight breeze 24/24. water 68. does this sound crazy. im looking for info on this, i might even try 90 one hour before lights on till one hour after they go off, then 80 for the other 10 hours.
and it would really just be 80 all the time and would only go up to 90 under the light.
 
Awesome fucking articles!!

I have very little fluctuation between day and night, and have seen the chlorosis happening. I think I will turn the heater and vent cycles down to keep it a little cooler in there. Great thread.
 
Sr. Greensea said:
http://www.cannabisculture.com/articles/1536.html ok so this sums it all up. this is the article i read so long ago and forgot all about. hope u guys like it

heres some more info http://www.crophouse.co.nz/files/Gr_E17_-_Temperature_control_for_crop_steering_-_view.pdf
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Wait, so this article is suggesting night temps should not drop more than 6-8 degrees from day temp, and when using co2 enrichment optimal temps daytime is around 80. So night should be about 72-74..? I always thought a 12-15 degree difference day to night was the way to go...
 
the article from cannabis culture doesnt really take into consider co2.. the main point is that the larger the DIF (further apart day temps are from night) the more stem u get.
u can controll stem elongation this way. im going to try a temp of 80 durning the complete preflower cycle 24/24. than after preflower i want to try this pre-night temp drop.
i'll drop temp to 75 three hours before dark and keep it there till three hours before lights on, when ill raise it back to 80. these are not canopy temps just room temps. figure ten degrees warmer under lights. i dont use the glass in my hoods. when most of the flowers are done growing i plan on stopping co2, 5-10days from harvest. at this point night temps will be lower to 72 and lights will be moved even higher to help lower day temps. i think stressing a plant with extra heat and light in the end only gives u more stem and mayb a yield of a extra gram or two. im also a firm believer in not only flowering with a hps.. im actually thinking of only using MH but don't u all get mad now.. im not saying mh is the best. it does however i think help with humidity. im very impressed with the eye blue. id rather spend bucks on light than nutes that help nothing other than salt and slime buildup
 
tatamama said:
removed
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What a dick, chill out bro. You choose to be here, if you don't like RIU then don't come here. I skimmed through the paragraph, maybe missed something, you don't have to be so rude. And since when has anyone who runs this site "boot" people? Never heard of it. And government putting people in cages? Then don't break the law, my grow is legal, why isn't yours?
 


http://www.hrt.msu.edu/energy/Notebook/pdf/Sec4/Maximising_the_Savings_from_Temperature%20Integration_by_SR_Adams.pdf

The effects of TI on plant quality, bulk and yield needs also to be
considered. As growers who use DIF or DROP will know, low-day/high-night
temperature regimes tend to produce shorter, more compact plants. However,
there is a risk that, if taken to extremes, low day temperatures will reduce
photosynthesis and reduce plant bulk and crop yield. On the other hand, highday/
low-night temperature regimes may increase height. This strategy may
also increase photosynthesis, particularly if CO​
2 enrichment is being used;
temperature has a greater impact on photosynthesis at elevated CO2​

concentrations. Furthermore, higher vent temperature set-points will help to
conserve CO​
2 resulting in higher achieved concentrations. TI strategies​

should be chosen with these considerations in mind.
 
tatamama said:
So I forget, temps can be higher, like around 85+ I recall when enriching with co2 but does it have to be at some level meaning will it still work at lower temps? If now that my temps are lower due to weather do I need to keep the night temps above what and the day can be how low and still not have a negative growth impack? I can keep the room at 72 with 1k hps and co2 if I choose or with no co2 for sure but will this slow them up much during lights on that is.. I pull air in for outside so it can be pretty cold. Have a heater but can keep it lower if no worries. Thanks....
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can u stop pullin air from the outside.. i dont even run my ventfan this time of year. i rarely even take the cover off of it. . u can close your vent altogether. there is no reason to vent with co2. thats the beauty of it. just vent if you need to lower heat or rh.
 
of course when the flowers get big be careful not to burn them (before they're dry :) )or let rh raise above 40-50% at all, especially moniter when the light first goes off for a rise in rh. im now staring a prenight vent to drop temps two hours befor light off and one hour after. then heating to raise temps back up to 80 for the other 21hrs. im only doing this prenight vent after the preflower stage and intill 5-10days before harvest, when i will lower temps to 75 and turn off the co2.. i might change my mind about this, im still learning about manipulating the temp for the best results.
when the light is on the canopy is 10degrees hotter than the 80 i keep the room at. so i figure there getting just under a average of 85 because of the prenight drop. this is a experiment. hope i dont do any damage. hahah.. if they ever start to look stressed i'll lower temp
 
you all seem to know about co2 i have a tank never hooked it up has 2 hoses coming out of it and the gage and knob to turn it on can i just fill it up and cut it on a little or do i got to get that expensiv regulators and shit them 500 doller set ups iv seen the new gages that screw in on the tank and can be pluged in to a timer or so what can i do
 
legallyflying said:
Ecofrog is not really correct. Co2 enrichment allows plants to achieve higher metabolic rates that would otherwise not be possible due to co2 limitations. You need higher temperatures to make this faster metabolic rate happen because it's an endothermic reaction and therefore requires heat. My ambient air temps hover around 85 and my canopy temps are a cunt hair under 90...like 87. (so maybe an Asian cunt hair is a better analogy.

The bigger question is... Why the hell are you pumping outside air into your room while your using co2? Do you own a co2 manufacturing facility or something? Daytime air 85, night time no less than 75...your golden.

The economical reasons behind co2 are increased yields from 30-40% if all other factors are dialed in. That difference translated into about $2,000 for me on my last, 8 plant grow.
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Can I see some pics of your grow. You sound like you know whats up
 
ecofrog said:
I guess the real answer to this question will come from results of your grow. 85 starts to get near a line I personally dont like to get near. @ 84 is when my cooling kicks in. High 70's to low 80's is best. CO2 will always be a benefit. While there might not be an economic reason, CO2 will always be a benefit to your plants.
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I find when supplementing co2 properly u shud be running ambient temperatures when the lights are on around the mid to upper 80s and at night mid to lower 70s. Having a window of 15 degrees between day and night temps is ideal.

When i say running co2 properly I am referring too. Making sure the rooms is sealed. Having constant co2 holding the ppm at constant.

Most importantly the co2 ppm should match the ppm of your feeding regime. As flower increases and decreases so should the co2 levels.
As co2 pom and feeding go hand in hand. Like workin out at the gym the more work and stress the more food intake u need to ingest in order to maximize growth benefits.

Co2 is great when run properly. But it can also have adverse affects on ur plants health if ur not running it correctly and can be detrimental to plant health.

Many new growers or inexperienced growers when using co2 find that they experience deficiencies and problems when they supplement co2. This is due in part because plants metabolism and food consumption increases w co2 bcuz u r changing the plants metabolic rate of growth. Like taking steroids is my example. When ur working out in over drive u need to increase ur protein, vitamin and water intake so u can benefit from the workouts and not be dehydrated. Same goes for the plants. If ur not increasing the base nutrients when the plants r in that overdrive state thats when u will get issues.

BOL
 
Also u dont need to run co2 past week 5/6. As flowering comes to a hault and u begin ripening stages u dont wanna be using co2 anymore. U want to begin reducing the feedings and lower. Ur temps during the night to pack on dense flower clusters and ripen them. Co2 at this stage of growth will adversely affect yield and hinder the density of ur flowers.

Its important to cut off co2 at this stage and focus on ripening the flowers at this time. If ur not pulling fresh air into ur garden from another source than u can simply dial back the co2 to ambient natural co2 levels and try kp a range of 350-500 ppm in ur garden to they can breathe and exchange oxygen levels etc..
This is final 2/3 weeks usually on an 8-9 week variety.

I find that peaking out around 1250 ppm is ideal for most grows. I also suggest paying the money for a controller co2 one that isnt fixed at 1500 ppm bcuz u dont need all that co2 especially not during first and final weeks of bloom. And it causes more issues than its worth and u r just waisting money at that point. Controllers are like 3-500$ for a good adjustable controller which is ideal.
 
Bottled co2 is okay for smaller gardens. And using during the summer months when temperature issues come into play.

Any other time of year of if u have good A/C i always recommend using a burner either propane or natural gas is the best.not only is it less expensive to run it also is more accurate and more reliable and will save u $$ in the long run. Only downside is that the co2 burners do produce alot of heat.

Unless u have the money to buy the water cooled systems which are def worth the money if ur doing 4+ lights thats the way to go. U can get the entire systems for like 1000$ and also use them to cool off ur reflectors and bulbs which is by far the best way to run co2. But it is expensive and time consuming to set it up correctly but i promise it will pay u back 10 fold on electricity running it like that over the course of a year.
 
Banditt said:
If you have no idea wtf you are talking about you should just stfu. Seriously. Stop giving bad advice about shit you don't truly understand. Legalyflying is completely correct. You need to run higher temps when you ENRICH c02. 70-85 is fine for a garden that is using ambient air. When you start enriching the air and running very high levels of c02 the temps need to be higher and the amount of light needs to be greater otherwise you are completely wasting the C02. This is a thread about enrichment. Not what temps plants can still make use of c02 at. Yes obviously they can still use C02 at 70 degrees. But that is far from optimal in a 1500 ppm environment. As far as pests and humidity go, if you are running c02 you should be running a sealed room. Therefore you will have a dehumidifier/Ac for controlling temps and humidity. Pests should be locked out since the room is sealed. And if you do manage to get bugs they can be killed by running the C02 at very high levels for a short amount of time.
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Couldn't have been said any better
 
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