Beachwalker
Well-Known Member
I believe it's 14°c and I think 10 degrees Fahrenheit is the most commonly recommended maximum variation between day and night temperatures
Temperatures
- Thread starter JJSG
- Start date
3rd Monkey
Well-Known Member
10F wouldn't give you the nice purple hues in late flower lol.
Actuosity
Well-Known Member
Conversions don't work that way brother, you have them mixed up. 14C would be 20-22ishF 10C = 14- 15F. 10F = about 8C. Atleasst when doing calculations in the 17 - 32C range. (I mean this portion in temperature fluctuations not their actual conversion form C to F)The further you get away from freezing and boiling points the more the difference is for F to C conversions. at 10C-16C each point you move up is worth about 1.8F, once you hit 16C-20C its 1.2F, at 21C - 23C its about 0.8F.
The thing about celsius converts cleanly to and from kelvin whereever you are in temp ranges and the reason the majority of the world use it is its straight numbers and changes, F fluctuation calcuations have to account for where you are on the temperature scale, the more extreme the greater or less change in F
JJSG
Member
Sorry guys not getting my notifications fir the post anymore for some reason, think I could change light schedule during a grow?
T macc
Well-Known Member
Cut your lights off 12 hours before you want them to come on again -easiest way
Or cut an hour off at the end and add an hour to the beginning everyday
Also, for notification thing, click "watched threads" towards the top. It'll show everything you didn't read
ANC
Well-Known Member
you can actively manipulate this to get more or less stretch
JJSG
Member
Will that not affect the plant, I got them on 18/6 right now as there new plants they autos though, think they'll be alright until I change to flower ?
Bobby Long Buds
Well-Known Member
https://www.amazon.ca/Inkbird-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-Fermentation/dp/B015FKG4CC
This controller allows you to program day and night temps independently. My own opinion is if your not looking to “optimize” your grow room just let it go at 1 temp all the time and don’t worry it will be fine.
I also think 27/28 celcius may work better if running led lights. 24/25 celcius if running HID lighting. Not sure of anything though. But I do know 18 celcius makes for slow growth.
This controller allows you to program day and night temps independently. My own opinion is if your not looking to “optimize” your grow room just let it go at 1 temp all the time and don’t worry it will be fine.
I also think 27/28 celcius may work better if running led lights. 24/25 celcius if running HID lighting. Not sure of anything though. But I do know 18 celcius makes for slow growth.
T macc
Well-Known Member
You can change that cycle anytime. Autos can run 24/0. I prefer a dark cycle too. Just saying
Actuosity
Well-Known Member
27/28 is acceptable until flower, once you hit flower you want it between 18 and 26, if you go above 26 you run the risk of heat stress and herming. Mind you if you run at 27/28 and see no signs of heat stress, then keep going. 20 - 28 is typically where you can veg. Seedlings prefer it warm and muggy so you can get away with hitting 28/29 as long as the humidity stays high. Some phenos and strains are more resilient to the heat. Also if you use chilled water you can get away with higher temps. I don't mean chilled as in 3 - 4c, more like 18- 19c just a bit past where it feels less than luke warm. This will help keep the damp areas on the soil cooler, as the soil drys out the temp increases again.
Actuosity
Well-Known Member
If you're really worried do a slow transition, but for me mid veg I had to change my light rotation about 4 weeks in and move the plants due to house temperatures so I did a full 24 hour period of darkness followed by the 18/6 I wanted to go with. the 24 hours of darkness fell on their feeding day (I did this on purpose) as plants as less affected by darkness stress if they have more energy and nutrients to move around the plant. What really stresses a plant in darkness is either you run into too much CO2 production or your plant doesn't have enough stored energy to continue the cycles that it does during dark periods and starts to "Kill off" the lower leaves as the leaves store energy and once its drained it (Brown leaves) its now useless to the plant and that plant will no longer feed it new energy or nutrients.
Bobby Long Buds
Well-Known Member
Great info I shoulda mentioned to cool down for flower. Thanks.
27/28 LST or ambient?
Ambient is 30-32°C and LST is always 3-5° cooler (QBs). 3rd week in.
Actuosity
Well-Known Member
its your maximum temperature at canopy height. Which should be the warmest spot excluding above the lights. If your ambient is 30-32 theres a problem
30-32 is directly under the lights, 18 inches away.
I have one sensor at canopy level under direct light (close to one of the tops), one resting on the 'Y' from the first topping and one at ground level. The other two sensors never go above 26°.
Humidity also varies quite a bit during lights on, especially after watering. Sensor 1 sits around 60, sensor 2 - 75-80 and sensor 3 (next to fabric pots) 70-75.
Shaded the canopy level sensor using a piece of cardboard with aluminium tape on the top side.
Temp has dropped from 32 to 28.5, humidity 64%. The difference in LST for QB's also makes a lot more sense now, actual difference is 1-2°. Been looking at charts with a difference of 3-5° till now.
Temp has dropped from 32 to 28.5, humidity 64%. The difference in LST for QB's also makes a lot more sense now, actual difference is 1-2°. Been looking at charts with a difference of 3-5° till now.
Actuosity
Well-Known Member
you still need to adjust your temps your too hot on canopy height. Shading the sensor just gives you an invalid reading lol
But not shading the sensor heats up the sensor housing and still gives an invalid reading.
I have two other smaller M1jia temp/humi sensors, one stuck to the underside of sensor 1 and the other hanging 18 inches below the lights in the centre of the canopy. The smaller sensor in the middle doesn't have as much surface area and dangles vertically so I don't think it's affected to the same degree as the sensor that was previously showing 32 (which I've covered). Both the M1jia sensors are quite close to what sensor 1 is showing.
Actuosity
Well-Known Member
You're making this far more complicated than it needs to be. if the sensors housing is heating up so is your plant my dude. Either get a infared temperature reader or just use a plain old mercury thermometer. your tent is too hot, you need to stop trying to make and excuse for it and just fix the problem. I don't care either way its not my crop that's going to herm.
I get where you're coming from and don't really see any benefit in making excuses, the sensor is not transpiring... I have an IR temp reader, LST was 26-28.